54 bucks - try to find a denim marked 10oz. or perhaps heavier yet, 12 oz. These run about .018" and .024"/.025" with a micrometer. With the calipers, squeezed snuggly between the fingers, they go about .0215" and .028" - both measured after washing. Store bought OxYoke .018" patches I have measured, as they shot like thinner material, only mic'd .014". It is no wonder they failed. I finally threw them out as nothing I had liked them.
We normally use the 10oz denim or same thickness ticking with a ball that is .005" under bore (.395", .445", .495", .535", .575", .615" for example) size in normal .010"/.012" rifling depth to about .016" max, no deeper as there is only .003" copmpression per side in the deeper rifling. The same cloth will usually be ok (without burning) with a ball .010" under, but the accuracy has always been better with the larger ball - for me.
This is how I find a ball/patch combinaton that will work - every time.
1/. Measure your patch material with calipers, squeezing the tines together with thumb and forefinger over the patch & record that measurement.
2/. Measure your groove diameter.
3/. Then subtract the groove diameter from double the patch thickness + the ball diameter. For expample - .535" ball + .0215patch + .0215patch = .578" total ball and patch - .564"(groove diameter with .012"depth rifling) = .014" divided by 2 = .007" compression per side. This combination will shoot well.
4/. If this number gives a compression of around .005" to .010" as above, it will be a descent combination that will withstand a good heavy hunting charge.
Most rifle and smoothbore muzzles need polishing (smoothing the sharp edges of the angled crown) to allow loading tight combinations without cutting the patch. Your thumb and a piece of 320 emery will do that job well.