Should I "move" this trigger plate?

[Steeltrap]

In the course of my build I'm constantly measuring, remeasuring, and measuring again. When I did the TP inlet I swore I had it centered. But then.....

Now, It could stay the way it is. The trigger will be .200 closer to the trigger finger side (RH), or I could move it (via carve out to the right and place a patch on the left) to center, or just leave it as is. The TG is a Northwestern so it's fairly "fat".

I have not drilled the tang bolt yet so it won't be all that difficult. I guess if I just leave it as is, would that cause me any issues that I'm not seeing?

Thanks!!

 

[Spalding]

Don’t think it would cause any function issues, just cosmetic.
If it was me I’d patch it as it would always bother me and I’d notice it every time I pick up the gun. Should be able to make it almost invisible.

Bob

[smylee grouch]

Some people will put the trigger in so as to place the trigger blade a tad closer to the lock plate and then the blade lifts the sear closer to the " L " or bend in the sear giving a small mechanical advantage to the trigger pull weight. 

[mgbruch]

If what you're building is a Northwest Trade gun; they didn't use a trigger plate anyway.

[Steeltrap]

Yes. I'm aware of that. This rifle is a youth build....about 80% of regular size. It's also a half-stock which NWT never were. This rifle will also have a nose cap...not NWT and an entry pipe....not NWT.

I'm building a functional flint for a small frame individual. But I thank you for your input. I'm hardly even an amateur when it comes to building, but I do enjoy it.

[Maurice]

The trigger may be a little cockeyed in relation to the guard since the trigger will follow the slot in the plate. Probably not enough to notice but it might be something to check.

[Steeltrap]

I bought the steel NWT from TOTW. I took that TG, heated it up, and made the loop smaller. The long extension of the TG will get cut as well.

After considering the comments, and looking at the relationship between the TG I'm going to use and the current location of the TP, I'm going to leave it as is. The only time it would be noticeable would be if someone looked at the TP from one side, then the other.

Should that happen I'll go with the "mechanical advantage" explanation.   

[Gaeckle]

Yes. I'm aware of that. This rifle is a youth build....about 80% of regular size. It's also a half-stock which NWT never were. This rifle will also have a nose cap...not NWT and an entry pipe....not NWT.

I'm building a functional flint for a small frame individual. But I thank you for your input. I'm hardly even an amateur when it comes to building, but I do enjoy it.

You're not patterning this after anything so why worry? Just build it and make sure the trigger functions

[A.Merrill]

Some people will put the trigger in so as to place the trigger blade a tad closer to the lock plate and then the blade lifts the sear closer to the " L " or bend in the sear giving a small mechanical advantage to the trigger pull weight. 

I always offset mine just for this reason.    Al

[kutter]

Don't move thr trigger plate at all.

Leave the RH side/edge of the TP alone and use the wood inlet for it as-is.

Take the Trigger Plate itself and file a taper on the Left Hand side of it to match that of the RH side
..That Can Be Seen Only when the trigger guard is in place...

Then make a small patch for the LH side to fill in where the taper to the TP has been made.
No moving around of the trigger plate & trigger itself needs to be done.
When you look at the assembled piece all
you will see is the small piece of the TP 'centered' behind the trigger guard.

[Steeltrap]

Don't move thr trigger plate at all.

Leave the RH side/edge of the TP alone and use the wood inlet for it as-is.

Take the Trigger Plate itself and file a taper on the Left Hand side of it to match that of the RH side
..That Can Be Seen Only when the trigger guard is in place...

Then make a small patch for the LH side to fill in where the taper to the TP has been made.
No moving around of the trigger plate & trigger itself needs to be done.
When you look at the assembled piece all
you will see is the small piece of the TP 'centered' behind the trigger guard.

What a great idea!  Thanks much for that. I'll do exactly that and it will work out fine!!

[Clark Badgett]

Yes. I'm aware of that. This rifle is a youth build....about 80% of regular size. It's also a half-stock which NWT never were. This rifle will also have a nose cap...not NWT and an entry pipe....not NWT.

I'm building a functional flint for a small frame individual. But I thank you for your input. I'm hardly even an amateur when it comes to building, but I do enjoy it.

Some NWTG did have nose bands and some had entry pipes. But the entry pipes were rare.