Laying out a tapered buttstock molding

[David Rase]

Thought I would share with you a simple, quick and effective method I use to lay out a tapered buttstock molding.  This simple method guarantees an even taper every time no matter how curved your buttstock may be from toe to wrist.
R/David



First you will need to decide how long your buttstock molding is going to be.  You will also need to determine the width of your molding at both the toe and the termination point in the wrist area.  Once you have these dimensions, lay down a piece of tape on a smooth cutting surface, I use blue painters masking tape and a scrap of cut off stock blank.  Next mark your length and width on both ends.  Using a straight edge and an X-acto knife, cut out your buttstock molding template.   







Now you are ready to lay your tape template on the buttstock.  Apply the tape following the curve of the buttstock ensuring the edge of your tape is flush with the underside of the buttstock.  Once your tape is in place, you can draw a pencil line using the top of the tape template as a guide line.  If you wanted, you could fore go the pencil line and using the tape template cut your molding line in using your preferred method.


Now it is just a matter of cutting your molding using whatever method you like to use.

[Percy]

Perfect timing for your post. I'm just about ready to cut the moldings in my Woodsrunner, now I know how to lay out the  lines. Thanks for sharing.

[Scota4570]

Good tip.  I do similar, except I cheat harder.  I can not cut a straight line consistently. 

My twist is that I use Dymo label maker tape.  That stuff is a hard thick plastic.  IT has a enough give to make a gradual curve.  It is sturdy enough to use as a fence for a checkering tool.  I have some home made safe side one line cutters that work well. 

[bluenoser]

I have been using that method for some time, but with a twist.  I cut the taper on an extra-long thin aluminum strip and have strips with several tapers.  I walk the strip along the bottom edge of the stock as I trace along the upper edge of the template.  Parallel moldings lines can be made by simply shifting the start point.

[J. Talbert]

I’ve sweated out this process a few times, but most recently I have found that I get good results with the simplest of methods.  With the pencil in hand and my fingers against the edge of the stock as my guide, I start at the narrow front end and gradually increase pressure against the stock as a slide the pencil to the rear.  It sometimes takes 2 or 3 tries, but that only translates to a few minutes of work and one or two touch ups and I’m ready to start cutting.
It really is easier than you may think.
Try it and see.

Jeff

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thanks for the post Dave.  That seems like an efficient and accurate way to proceed.  I do it the way Jeff does with my middle finger as a guide for drawing the line and tapering it in.  My dad taught me that method, which he learned from his grandfather.







dave

[bluenoser]

I envy folks who can do that.  My line would look like it followed an old black snake.

[Ed Wenger]

Great tip, David…, thanks!  I’ll be giving it a try.  I’ve always done the finger guide thing and always end up drawing it a couple/three times.  This looks / sounds more efficient, thanks again.  Best,

         Ed

[J Shingler]

Thanks Dave for the tip. As for an un artistic guy this has great potential. I can see if your careful you might be able to pull the tape and although the sticky side is on the wrong side could still be transfered to the opposite side so they match!

Jeff

[Jim Kibler]

That rifle is looking pretty awesome Mr. Rase.  Gotta love this style.

[davec2]

David,

Great tip !!!  I used the same finger method with a pencil as well for a lot of carpentry work but I like your tape method for its precision in setting up the tapered molding starting outline.  Thanks