Recommend hacksaw frame?

[rich pierce]

I’ve got a wonky cheap hacksaw frame and I’m tired of it. Recommendations? Is a Milwaukee good?

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Do not get a Lennoz one.  I have gone through two of them.  The threaded piece that is used to put tension on the blade strips out every time.  That is the only brand that the Lowe's near me sells. 
I now have a Dewalt and it is going ok. 

Cory Joe

[Dave B]

Rich i have several types that i use the high tension is my go to for heavy work cant remember the maker but it looks like a a Lennox. I have cheap ones with modified blades for slotting screw slots and thinner work.

[Dave Marsh]

Rich, Fred (Flehto) (RIP) recommended a hack saw to me made by Crescent Tool Company Jamestown, NY.  They are no longer in business, however I got mine on Ebay.  There are several out there for sale and mine works great.  I threw away the junkers I had.  Here are two examples.   
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/iYQAAOSwj41lryrk/s-l960.webp
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OnYAAOSwEtZlAtYF/s-l1600.webp

[smylee grouch]

I also have a Dewalt   and like it so far after + or - 10 years.

[Spalding]

Tim, if ya want new, I’d go to a real hardware store or farm supply, if you have one nearby, and handle, personally checkout the couple brands recommended.
My Dad grabbed this 12” Made In USA Lennox saw about 30 years ago at a garage sale for $7.00 and it’s been rode hard since. Still straight and tensions up as good as new.

Bob

[bluenoser]

I don't think many things are more frustrating than a cheap flimsy hacksaw.  I have three different frames with different tooth-count blades.  One is the same Lennox Spalding posted.  It is rock-solid rigid and hasn't given an ounce of trouble.  I will check the brands of the other two before posting.

[rich pierce]

Thanks, very helpful!

[Spalding]

Something else about that Lennox, that heavy metal frame/handle around your hand has saved me countless bruised and torn knuckles.
It’s pretty dinged up in front and I cringe at the thought of my knuckles taking that blow instead of the front of the handle.

Bob

[bluenoser]

The first of my other two frames has no name on it, but the yellow color suggests it might be a DeWalt.  It has the same basic frame design as the Lennox, but the blade changing mechanism does not require the tensioning mechanism (which is screw adjustable) to be backed off.  I would have to rate it above the Lennox solely because of the blade-changing convenience. (EDIT looks like it might be an older model Stanley)
I recently purchased the second - a Stanley Fat Max for the grand sum of $3.00.  This thing has a massive one piece cast alloy frame and, like the one above, the screw-adjustable tensioning mechanism does not have to be backed off to change blades.  It is heavier than the other two, which can be an advantage when doing heavy cuts.  I expect it to be an excellent frame for coarse blades.

All three were yard sale/flea market finds.

[Bob Roller]

I have one with a tubular frame but no idea as to the maker.I have had it for about 70 years.
Bob Roller

[hawkenhunter50]

I got a Sandvik 225 frame used off of ebay. It is made in Sweden and is very well made.

[Clark Badgett]

I have no idea who made mine, but I found them at old junk places over the years. The heavy duty one is in my box at work, the other 2 are here. One has a stamped metal handle the other has wood inline handle.

[Habu]

I've been using a Klein 702-12 for a couple years.  It isn't bad: available off-the-shelf or mail order, easily modified with longer pins to run multiple blades at once, and avoids the problem with stripping screws.  I think I have three of them now; I got tired of junky saws that wouldn't tension blades properly.   

[Daryl]

Not at home right now, but my current hacksaw frame is a Stanley  I think. The tensioning lever is on it's back (top), which is square and very ridged.

[Nordnecker]

I have a Lennox like the one shown above. No problems so far. I am also the proud owner of an old Proto that belonged to my Dad. It’s probably 60 yrs old plus.

[rickw]

I'd like to suggest tat you look around for an older hacksaw frame with a straight handle, like a coping saw. I have a couple, and I like them for light work, like cutting a dovetail slot for a sight.
If you find one, make sure it will fit a 10" or 12" blade, or it's adjustable to fit those lengths. Some of the older ones were made for a 8" or 9" blade, which are hard to find.
Rick

[bpd303]

I inherited a Crescent Tool Co hacksaw from my grandfather in '62 and loved it probably was 50 years old then.
 Some miscreant broke into my van in '69 and stole my tool box with it inside along with a lot of his other tools. I replaced it with a Craftsman from Sears and still have it. I wouldn't recommend Craftsman nowadays as they are no longer made in the USA and other Craftsman tools I have bought lately certainly are not the quality they used to be.   

[Curtis]

Rich,
I went through several hacksaws over the years, and one day purchased a Stanley Box Frame Hacksaw.  What a world of difference it made!  Holds blades rock steady, no twisting or bending.  Makes cutting metal a breeze.  Here is a link to one on the Stanley website:
https://www.stanleytools.com/product/stht20140/box-frame-hacksaw?tid=576481


Curtis

[rich pierce]

I got a Stanley frame at a good price. What a difference from my “wobbler”. 

[AMartin]

I use a 10" saw and that length blade... less flex , better control ..  and you're only cutting a few gun parts ...

[Curtis]

I got a Stanley frame at a good price. What a difference from my “wobbler”.

Curtis