Bridel, Bolster Hammer contact

[Steeltrap]

As I move along with this lock I have a question on where the hammer makes contact when it's "at rest".

Right now the hammer stops when the tumbler comes in contact with the bridal. (See first pic). Instead of the hammer offset coming in contact with the plate bolster. (See second pic)

So my question is, should I remove material from the Bridal in order for the hammer to come to rest against the bolster?  Or leave well enough alone?

[Bob Roller]

If that rear bridle screw comes it easily then there is nothing wrong.Who made that lock? I know I didn't but whoever did appears to be a good craftsman.
Bob Roller

[Steeltrap]

If that rear bridle screw comes it easily then there is nothing wrong.Who made that lock? I know I didn't but whoever did appears to be a good craftsman.
Bob Roller

It does go in and out easy. I did make a new rear bridle screw as the original threads were to deep. The lock is a Dixie Gun Works (as stamped on the back) and had (until I evened up the pan with the bolster) ITALY stamped on it.  I just purchased it from a member here. It's going on a pistol build.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Removing metal from the bridle and or the tumbler will allow the cock to rotate a little further.  This may cause an additional problem as the mainspring will slide down the ramp of the tumbler a little further and may even drop off the end of the tumbler.  One fix might be to add metal via silver soldering to the stop on the inside of the cock, so that the cock comes to rest on the plate at the same time as the tumbler stops on the bridle..

[Bob Roller]

Dixie was not known for quality locks and usually catered to those who by necessity had to keep expenditures for hobby activities to a minimum.I do know the Italians can make anything wanted in muzzle loaders  and fine replica single shot black powder breech loaders as well.They can build to suit almost any price range.
Can you post a picture of the inside of that lock for a closer look?
Bob Roller

[Steeltrap]

Here ya go. This is all I have "on a moments notice". I have the main spring out in these pics. If you want other angles or with the spring in, the lock is fully assembled right now so that's easy to do.

[Steeltrap]

Removing metal from the bridle and or the tumbler will allow the cock to rotate a little further.  This may cause an additional problem as the mainspring will slide down the ramp of the tumbler a little further and may even drop off the end of the tumbler.  One fix might be to add metal via silver soldering to the stop on the inside of the cock, so that the cock comes to rest on the plate at the same time as the tumbler stops on the bridle..

Good points as I didn’t consider the change in the tumbler.

While I have successfully silver soldered in the past, it’s not my favorite thing to do.

I don’t let the hammer free fall against the bolster on my other locks. If I don’t have a flint installed and the frizzen closed, the sear doesn’t get tripped.

[Bob Roller]

If the hammer is snapped with no flint it will guarantee a much modified top jaw screw .On THAT particular lock,it looks like any more rotation of the tumbler would be a gamble.
Bob Roller

[Jim Kibler]

Add material to the cock stop.

Jim

[Steeltrap]

I'll add enough metal to take the force off the bridle if the trigger get's pulled when the frizzen is open. I've ordered some silver solder supplies to accomplish this.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

There is no reason to let the hammer fall with the frizzen open.  Doing so will eventually break the cock's head clean off...the inertia of the top of the cock not having already struck the frizzen with the flint, will tend to keep the top end of the cock falling forward, even after it stops on the bridle and or the plate.  It's not designed to take that kind of abuse, and is easily avoided.  Why in the world would you ever trip the sear at full cock with the frizzen open?
And while I'm on the soap box, here's another DON'T DO IT!  Never snap set triggers (dry fire) when the lock is in half-cock position.  The trigger's mainspring has enough power so that when the hammer trigger strikes the sear arm, the tip of the sear can be sheared off, and on occasion, the half cock notch of the tumbler can also be sheared off.  I had a rifle on my bench last week whose half cock notch was broken off the tumbler by doing this.  And it's the second tumbler this fellow has destroyed doing the same thing.  I explained it to the client (again) and this time, I think he got it.  If you want to test the triggers for weight or crispness, leave the hammer or cock at rest in the down position without a cap on the nipple, or in the case of a flintlock, cock at rest down and frizzen open.

[Hungry Horse]

 I have one of those Dixie locks on my old poor boy rifle. The lock tuned up and functions fine. The only problem I had was the frizzen. It’s case hardened cast mild steel, and the case hardening just doesn’t go very deep for some reason. I’ve tried several different case hardening compounds, and techniques and they all work, but for a very short time.
 The cure for me was getting a frizzen off of an old Dixie F1 flintlock that Dixie imported from Belgium. They are high carbon steel, and the right size. I reshaped it to fit the style of the new lock, and bored a new hole for the frizzen screw oversized to fit a brass bolt. Then I threaded the newly bored hole, and screwed the bolt in with a little red locktite on it. I cut the bolt ends off, and repositioned the hole for the frizzen bolt. I’ve been shooting this gun for years, and never had to work on it again. I assume a half sole on the frizzen would work as well I just happened to have the old F1 flintlock with a broken tumbler (they’re weak spot). Good luck.

Hungry Horse

[Steeltrap]

There is no reason to let the hammer fall with the frizzen open.  Doing so will eventually break the cock's head clean off...the inertia of the top of the cock not having already struck the frizzen with the flint, will tend to keep the top end of the cock falling forward, even after it stops on the bridle and or the plate.  It's not designed to take that kind of abuse, and is easily avoided.  Why in the world would you ever trip the sear at full cock with the frizzen open?
And while I'm on the soap box, here's another DON'T DO IT!  Never snap set triggers (dry fire) when the lock is in half-cock position.  The trigger's mainspring has enough power so that when the hammer trigger strikes the sear arm, the tip of the sear can be sheared off, and on occasion, the half cock notch of the tumbler can also be sheared off.  I had a rifle on my bench last week whose half cock notch was broken off the tumbler by doing this.  And it's the second tumbler this fellow has destroyed doing the same thing.  I explained it to the client (again) and this time, I think he got it.  If you want to test the triggers for weight or crispness, leave the hammer or cock at rest in the down position without a cap on the nipple, or in the case of a flintlock, cock at rest down and frizzen open.

I understand your comment on the "Never snap set triggers". I also understand why it's a bad idea to trip the sear if the frizzen is not closed or there isn't a flint in the cock.

I don't do either one of those actions. (BTW, I also never "flick" a DA revolver cylinder open for similar reasons of unwanted\unneeded damage to the firearm).

My comment was geared to the fact that at times, other individuals may handle the firearm, or frankly, accidents do happen.

The reason I want the cock to "slam" against the bolster should such an event occur is I'd rather be searching for a new cock than dealing with a broken bridle or worse, stripped screw holes from the force. There are still chances of this occurring with just the cock slamming against the bridle, but a lesser chance.

But your post is very good for those who are new to the sport.

I suppose I have the option to add some metal to the cock, or to the top of the bolster. I'm thinking I'll add it to the bolster as it won't add additional weight to the cock. And the lock sparks and works fine right now.

[Steeltrap]

There is no reason to let the hammer fall with the frizzen open.  Doing so will eventually break the cock's head clean off...the inertia of the top of the cock not having already struck the frizzen with the flint, will tend to keep the top end of the cock falling forward, even after it stops on the bridle and or the plate.  It's not designed to take that kind of abuse, and is easily avoided.  Why in the world would you ever trip the sear at full cock with the frizzen open?
And while I'm on the soap box, here's another DON'T DO IT!  Never snap set triggers (dry fire) when the lock is in half-cock position.  The trigger's mainspring has enough power so that when the hammer trigger strikes the sear arm, the tip of the sear can be sheared off, and on occasion, the half cock notch of the tumbler can also be sheared off.  I had a rifle on my bench last week whose half cock notch was broken off the tumbler by doing this.  And it's the second tumbler this fellow has destroyed doing the same thing.  I explained it to the client (again) and this time, I think he got it.  If you want to test the triggers for weight or crispness, leave the hammer or cock at rest in the down position without a cap on the nipple, or in the case of a flintlock, cock at rest down and frizzen open.

The frizzen on this lock has the number "2" stamped on the side, right beside the bolt hole. Do you have any idea what that number stands for?

[Steeltrap]

Problem solved. Small piece of steel, Hard Silver Solder, proper flux, MAP gas. Now it's clean up time.

[JH Ehlers]

Why did you not solder it to the cock?

[Steeltrap]

Why did you not solder it to the cock?

I didn't want to add more weight to the cock...not that it should matter, but there's always Murphy's Law. Also, adding to the flat spot on the bolster was somewhat easier than having to reshape the ledge on the cock.

Results end up accomplishing the same purpose. And that little bump on the bolster will be unnoticeable.

[Steeltrap]

And now.....you have created a monster. I now think I can hard solder (silver solder) anything!!

Today I made my pistol's Trigger Plate with lugs that I can shape to where I want the pivot pin to be.