Shaping the pistol grip Maple wood

[Steeltrap]

My previous pistol build was made with walnut, which is somewhat easier to file\chisel\sand than maple. OTOH, I built the walnut pistol in the pic's background ten years ago so maybe I forgot how difficult or easy walnut was.

In any event, does anyone have any tips to make the wood removal (see arrows in pic) in this section easier....or less prone to chipping?

I have found that using a chisel with a narrow width vs a wide width seems to work a bit better. Just asking if someone has a better way or method.

Thanks.

(BTW, the lock sketch is in the wrong place in this photo)

[Rich]

Band saw is the easiest. Coping saw if you don't have a bandsaw. A good half round rasp to bring it to the line. If you want to use gouges, you can treat it as a stabbed in carving and stab in near or at the line but not too deep then remove the unwanted wood with a curved gouge and do it again until you're through the depth you want. True it up with a rasp and files.

[smallpatch]

I cheat, I use a spindle sander.

[Steeltrap]

Thanks Gents!

I have a spindle sander for my drill press. That cuts but not really faster than the half-round file.

I guess it's just "work"!!

I think I'll wait until I have the width closer to where I want it, then attack the inner grip.

[Waksupi]

Cabinet maker rasps #49 and #50 are necessities in my shop.

[Steeltrap]

Cabinet maker rasps #49 and #50 are necessities in my shop.

Just did a search. One site has a Auriou Cabinetmaker's rasp for $165 each, and also sells a "generic" Cabinetmaker's rasp for $36.90.

What's the difference?  (Aside from the obvious $121.10  )

[Waksupi]

Cabinet maker rasps #49 and #50 are necessities in my shop.

Just did a search. One site has a Auriou Cabinetmaker's rasp for $165 each, and also sells a "generic" Cabinetmaker's rasp for $36.90.

What's the difference?  (Aside from the obvious $121.10  )

I don't know, I've not tried either as far as I know. Mine came from Boggs Tool. Their price is pretty good, and are cheaper than when I bought mine years back.

https://boggstool.com/file-%26-rasp-services

[Tim Crosby]

 Take a look at these:

  https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/files/dragon-hand-cut-rasp

  https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/files/razor-files/

  Tim C.

[Steeltrap]

Cabinet maker rasps #49 and #50 are necessities in my shop.

Just did a search. One site has a Auriou https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/rasps/65242-auriou-cabinetmakers-rasps?item=62W3017&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CHandTools&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAClVJ5gEbsldMR-3gpFv16FJBPMET&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9da8uOSfiAMVkUlHAR1Gjh87EAQYBiABEgKP2_D_BwECabinetmaker's rasp for $165 each, and also sells a "generic" Cabinetmaker's rasp for $36.90.

What's the difference?  (Aside from the obvious $121.10  )

I thought I had provided the link. From a web site called Lee Valley the Auriou https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/rasps/65242-auriou-cabinetmakers-rasps?item=62W3017&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CHandTools&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAClVJ5gEbsldMR-3gpFv16FJBPMET&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9da8uOSfiAMVkUlHAR1Gjh87EAQYBiABEgKP2_D_BwE for $142.

Then generic ]https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/rasps/115836-cabinet-rasps?item=62W1910&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CShopping%7CTools%7CNon-displayItems&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAClVJ5iEbtbaKponZOMM7I8oPnaJ2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9da8uOSfiAMVkUlHAR1Gjh87EAQYASABEgKAI_D_BwE[url][/url] for $36.90.

[kutter]

A coping saw to cut out the basic contour.

Then I use one of the Round Surform style files for contours like that and shaping the area down.
They are about 1/2" in dia,,maybe 5/8" ?. When sarp, they cut nice. I like to pull them towards me instead of pushing them.
Handle and care for them like any other cutting tool and don't let the cutting edges clank against other tools and get dull.

You have to get the wood locked into a vise so it doesn't vibrate, that goes for any file or chisel work.
Sometimes the grain will fight you going in one direction or another. Just change direction(s) and file away down to your basic shape.
It's a rough-out tool anyway.
Then I go with a finer cut rasp and files.

[Waksupi]

For a rasp worth it's weight in gold to a gun builder, these are great for grips, lock panels, cheek pieces, and curving surfaces.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/half-round-vulcanite-file/

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I cut as close as possible with a band saw, then use a rat-tailed cabinet maker's rasp to take the wood down to my profile drawing.  I bought my rasp at a tool shop in town.  It
's a 3/8" dia. rasp and about 11" long, and it coast around $30 CDN fifteen years ago.  It cuts like a demon.

[Steeltrap]

For a rasp worth it's weight in gold to a gun builder, these are great for grips, lock panels, cheek pieces, and curving surfaces.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/half-round-vulcanite-file/

I like the versatility of this one. Have one on the way!

[Tim Crosby]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=82409.msg808538#msg808538