Picture wanted

[Jim]

 of a simple trigger mortise.

[Curtis]

Jim, I hope some of these are what you are looking for.

Curtis

[Steeltrap]

Nice extension!!

[rich pierce]

Good instructions Curtis! Your how-to illustrations are excellent.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Curtis' instructions are excellent and all you really need.  But I'd like to pile on the wagon regarding the construction of your trigger plate.  That little sharp tit on the back end is really useful for anchoring down the back end without using an additional screw.  Here's a simial one I did for my A. Verner build.  Also not in the photos of the blue-print plan and the side view how high the trigger is pinned.  This yields a crisp light trigger pull with no creep.
IMGBB won't let me upload my photos...grrrrrr!  Sorry

[Jim]

Thanks for those pictures Curtis, just a question, have you mortised the lock into that stock? I'm interested in what the interior of the mortise looks like relative to the locks mortise, particularly the trigger's interaction with the sear hole. how much wood should I expect to remove in totality.

  I started to inlet the plate before I began on the trigger slot, but now the plate is just about flush (I need to bend it a bit) and wondering what the of the hole should look like in its finished state.

[Curtis]

I think these are all I have, hope they help.  The trigger in these pics are before the final filing to fit the sear so the finished trigger is smaller in the blade.  These (and the pics in the previous posting) are from a rifle I built in 2017.














Curtis

[Jim]

 Thanks again Curtis, but I was hoping for a straight shot of the trigger hole in the stock, like the picture above of the lock mortise.

 If you don't mind, how long and deep is the slot for the trigger, do you figure. I take it that the trigger above is pinned to the stock, I'm trying to inlet this,

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The item you have pictured will need a few strokes of a saw and file before you inlet it.  First, the forward extension is likely too long and will need shortening so it doesn't interfere with the lug on the trigger guard.  And secondly, you need to file draft on the sides of the plate so that you can inlet it with out gaps.  I am not quite sure what you mean by "the hole for the trigger"?  The hole to accommodate the trigger's blade is inlet with drilling first, then narrow chisel for removing the webs of the drilled holes, and often a thin flat chisel for widening the cut.  It needs to be long enough and deep enough so that the trigger will interact with the lock's sear arm and clear all the wood to move freely.  If you had a blueprint drawing of the profile of the rifle with those parts drawn in, you would be able to see how much to cut off and where.  Guessing at it would never work for me.  And what someone else has done on their rifle won't help you much either.
I'll try to post some pictures of a rifle I built hopefully showing the spots you want...IMGBB still won't upload my images, darn.
OK, I'll try for one picture showing a drawing of the relationship.  Nope, won't upload.  I'm befuddled.

[Curtis]

 If you don't mind, how long and deep is the slot for the trigger, do you figure. I take it that the trigger above is pinned to the stock.....

The slot length and depth will vary with trigger size, the sole will have to be at least as long and deep as your trigger, and enlarged both dimensions (length and depth) to allow for the arc of movement of the longest portion of the trigger at the rear, and how far the top of the trigger will swing in order to trip the sear - plus a tad for clearance.

A lot of that statement was covered by Taylor in his last post, and you will likely need to file some off the top of your trigger when you determine the sear position.  Basically you will break into the sear hole and then some, with more depth required at the rear due to the arc of the trigger swing.

Curtis

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Ifyou make a drawing of the rifle profile you're after with the parts you have drawn full scale, you'll see right away if they are going to work as is, or need some cutting/filing.
I am again going to try to upload some pictures of a simple trigger install I did some time in the last century.  As with Curtis' submission, you'll notice that the trigger blade itself has not been filed to its finish shape...start big and remove metal as you need to to make it fit/work.  You don't need a whole lot of metal behind the sear bar.  Your drawing will help let you know where to cut it, and how much wood to remove to accommodate it.  In my photos, ylu'll notice a quarter inch hole in the centre of the trigger slot,  and that was drilled before the trigger work started, just to insert a small screw driver to trip the lock while I was inletting it.  And it brings up another important note about gun building.  Maintain a centre line completely around your stock while you are building the rifle. It will pay dividends when you are laying out your lock panels, entry pipe inlet, etc.














Yahooooo...we're back in business.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's a couple more that deal with another construction issue you're going to run into.  the forward extension of your trigger plate must be trimmed and inlet so as not to interfere with the back end of your trigger guard bow.  In my example here, the trigger plate is inlet so that the trigger plate covers the tip of the tirgger plate.  In other examples, the plate is shortened so that the plate does not interact with the guard at all, as with  the Verner rifle.








image upload