Well, that doesn't look right

[ettoreR]

In all of my years building guns, I can't even fathom how I managed this conundrum. Got my finish mostly done, put her all together,  picked up the gun to admire it and my eye immediately went to the fact that somehow I placed the liner so far back that it is covered by the rear of the pan! So my question to you all is, what would you do to correct this?? "Lol"


ring ring the banjo

[Stoner creek]

Oh noooooo!!!
Looks like a custom made barrel with an extra long breech plug maybe. I hate to see this!?!?!

[WKevinD]

Two choices and a question.
1: plug it and move it forward
or
2: get out the Dremel and open up the pan.

The question: where is the rear lockbolt?

Kevin

[ettoreR]

Two choices and a question.
1: plug it and move it forward
or
2: get out the Dremel and open up the pan.

The question: where is the rear lockbolt?

Kevin

How do you go about plugging it? I'm looking for a less drastic approach, the gun is a plain Jane schimmel with little furniture and made of recycled parts so I think that would fit the narrative

[Gtrubicon]

I think I’d remove the touch hole liner, and plug with a bolt filed flush. Then I’d drill 1/16” touch hole in the right position.

[Stoner creek]

I think I’d remove the touch hole liner, and plug with a bolt filed flush. Then I’d drill 1/16” touch hole in the right position.

This will work, but there’s going to be a big distance from the new touch hole and the breech. Lots of fouling and crud but it will work. I knew a fellow who intentionally put the hole way out in front of the breech plug in an effort to improve ignition and later found out that it was a mistake because of cleaning.

[rich pierce]

I’m with Wayne (Stoner Creek) on this one. I’d get the breechplug and the barrel threads extended if possible. It would take a very clever machinist to do this utilizing the existing tang. If the touch hole is this far in front of the breechplug face, it won’t clean well and during extended shooting sessions, crud may accumulate in the powder chamber.

[Steeltrap]

WOW!  That's really an issue. I suppose it would be possible to grind the pan wider, but then the flash hole liner would also need to be modified for a consistent ignition. (I would think) Drilling the flash hole liner hole at an angle towards the pan may help with ignition.

Of course, the looks of this would certainly show "jerry-rig".

I suppose it may be possible, depending upon how far the flash hole needs moved forward (I'm guessing at least 3/16") to pull the breech plug, drill and tap it deeper, insert a piece that would extend the existing breech plug, then reinstall the BP. (Just thinking out loud and the more I think of that the less I like it)  You would still have to plug the existing flash hole liner and move it forward.

I'd say fix it right. Get a new tang\breech plug....file and fit it so it will inlay to the existing tang inlet, plug the hole and move the liner forward so it's centered and properly placed in front of the breech plug.

That's a lot of work....but in the end it will be right.

[Justin Urbantas]

I think I would open up the pan with a dremel grinding stone like this.  Definitely saves a lot of hassle and ignition should be fine.

[stubshaft]

I think that Justins idea has the most merit. 

[bob in the woods]

I think I would open up the pan with a dremel grinding stone like this.  Definitely saves a lot of hassle and ignition should be fine.

I second the motion !  It will work fine.

[Justin Urbantas]

there's definitely lots of metal there. Do it on both sides of the pan similar to my drawing, and it'll be perfect. A stone or two like this would be good, then finish with sandpaper and your thumb..

[JTR]

The stone pictured above will certainly even things out for you, but I'm curious just how you went about measuring, and ending up with this in the first place?

The few rifles I've done, I've put the barrel in place, put the lock in place, lined up a center punch in the pan area, and tapped the punch to mark the spot.

I'm not criticizing your way, just curious.
John

[Gaeckle]

The stone pictured above will certainly even things out for you, but I'm curious just how you went about doing this in the first place?

The few rifles I've done, I've put the barrel in place, put the lock in place, lined up a center punch in the pan area, and tapped the punch to mark the spot.

I'm not criticizing your way, just curious.
John

Disassemble the lock, remove the pan from the plate and hold that in a vice. It's a Siler and the plate is removable

[Daryl]

Looks to me the wrong centre punch hole got drilled and tapped for the vent liner.
Justin's suggestion looks good to me.
I have used the larger version of a drill grinding stone to start a muzzle crown on  a square muzzle,  then finishing with a thumb and wet/dry paper.

[snapper]

Leatherbark wrote:  I would take out the barrel.  Take out the touch hole liner.  Re-thread the hole with a bolt flush with the inside of the barrel. Saw off the bolt.  Weld around the bolt and file smooth. 

Please don't tank this the wrong way.  I am trying to learn something.    If you do this, would you not still have a place for corrosion to act on with the exposed area that is threaded on the inside of the barrel?

I am thinking if it were mine, I would do as you suggest of moving the barrel back an inch or so.

Fleener

 

[mikeyfirelock]

I am looking at this and wondering what is the length of the threaded portion of the breech plug ?  And exactly where is the breech face relative to the center  of the
Pan ?     

[Long Ears]

Well darn huh? My thoughts, cut off the barrel and rebreach, fill and redrill the barrel pins, move the nose cap back..... Drink better whiskey. Bob

[Crow Choker]

The stone pictured above will certainly even things out for you, but I'm curious just how you went about measuring, and ending up with this in the first place?

The few rifles I've done, I've put the barrel in place, put the lock in place, lined up a center punch in the pan area, and tapped the punch to mark the spot.

I'm not criticizing your way, just curious.
John

Ya, my thought also. Things do happen though, ya think you have all under control, all of the t's crossed and i's dotted and something simple/obvious slips by. 2nd thing I noticed in the picture is the 'sad cat' face to the left of the liner. 

[Steeltrap]

Grinding the pan wider may be the best/easiest fix. Just be careful that when the pan closes there is still enough pan left so you don’t have a permanent opening.

[Hungry Horse]

 A couple of observations on this problem. First it’s a poor boy, so looking perfect is going to be a little out of character. It’s a Germanic style lock which will look out of character on a southern rifle unless it’s a recycled lock. So I’d say remove the pan, do the necessary grinding, maybe even a little restyling along British lines. And put it all back together, and enjoy it.
That would be the easiest and cheapest way to fix this problem. Good luck.

Hungry Horse

[Robby]

A couple of observations on this problem. First it’s a poor boy, so looking perfect is going to be a little out of character. It’s a Germanic style lock which will look out of character on a southern rifle unless it’s a recycled lock. So I’d say remove the pan, do the necessary grinding, maybe even a little restyling along British lines. And put it all back together, and enjoy it.
That would be the easiest and cheapest way to fix this problem. Good luck.

Hungry Horse

Robby

[WadePatton]

I think I’d remove the touch hole liner, and plug with a bolt filed flush. Then I’d drill 1/16” touch hole in the right position.

This will work, but there’s going to be a big distance from the new touch hole and the breech. Lots of fouling and crud but it will work. I knew a fellow who intentionally put the hole way out in front of the breech plug in an effort to improve ignition and later found out that it was a mistake because of cleaning.

But there's a mark right where the TH should be--was that the original marking and it got drilled in the wrong place?  Where _is_ the breech plug? Perhaps the installed liner isn't representative of this.

I'm with the plug/drill opinion provided the plug isn't -way- back there at the other hole. If the plug is indeed back there, then open the pan.

[kutter]

I'd pull the liner and plug it. It wouldn't matter if the plug was perfectly fitted to the bore on the inside.
The next step would be to deepen the existing breech plug threads to just barely past that Liner Plug just installed.

Make the new threads the same size or one step smaller if the caliber of the bbl allows.
Smaller may be easier to do for the builder.
All that needs to happen is for the new threads to completely cut through that Liner Plug coming in from the side and barely pass it by.
The face of the new breech plug will then seal off the Liner Plug and it won't be an issue as far as safety. Plus the new Flash Hole appears to be able to be placed right at the front face of that new breech plug.

The new Breech Plug,,
No need to make an entirely new Plug or modify the existing one with an extension, etc.

Take a standard thread Allan Screw of the thread that you made the extension of the breech plug threads, face it square and fit it as the new breech plug. The Allan Wrench fitting makes an easy in & out way of fitting w/no need to keep track of a tang coming up to 12 o'clock.

Once fitted, replace the orig Breech Plug into the rifle. It should turn in and come up square/12 o'clock. If the orig threads are a bit too long now and bumping against the rear of the new Allen Screw breech plug,,trim the old breech plug threads so it will turn in w/o resistance. No need for it to seat against the Allen Screw,,just for the tang section to seat firmly against the breech face and square up as originally done.

Center punch the Flash hole,,drill it.

[rich pierce]

Wow!  Nice strategy kutter!

How would any of you approach drilling or lathe cutting past the existing threads so it’s the right diameter for threading deeper?