Please Critique my Plan for Kibler's Fowler

[Snowmoon]

Hello everyone, I am a new member from eastern PA (sadly, far from most of the fun places for muzzleloading). I've lurked here for a fair while before joining. My only black powder gun is a revolver, but after being enchanted by an antique Belgian (I think) fowler at Dixon's shop a couple of years ago, I have rekindled my long-held admiration of muzzleloaders, especially smoothbores. While I look for a suitable piece of English Walnut for Jim and co. to machine, I am planning out how it will be finished. I am hoping to make it look authentic.

Wood: sand, whisker, then stain with mineral spirits infused with alkanet root powder (the solids to be filtered before application).  Then, use several coats of Tried and True or similar linseed oil based varnish, burnishing in between, taking cues from Dave Person's fowler tutorial. Goal: classic red-brown seen on English sporting guns, with depth and gloss apparent. I do not seek brown with hints of red, but to have the red and brown more or less equally apparent. See attached images. [Credit: Dave Person]

Metal: polish all steel bright white. Polish all brass bright. Sand paper seems like the best way to do this, but I am open to suggestions. Have all brass modestly engraved. Blue all screw heads, including the cock screw. Perhaps fire blue is appropriate? My current understanding is that a chemical blue finish looks out of place. Goal: to finish the gun in a manner representative of such a piece "as new, " with touches appropriate to its quality level as an export piece.

Thank you for letting me know what you think!

[Daryl]

Interesting 2-piece stock on that one. I like the colour & that side plate.

[Snowmoon]

Interesting 2-piece stock on that one. I like the colour & that side plate.

It is a real beauty. That lock plate takes full advantage of the canvas provided. Any thoughts on my finishing ideas? Fitting of the gun's quality and time frame? Thanks.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Since I wrote my tutorial, I've discovered 2 things about using alkanet root.  The color is more intense if you use turpentine rather than mineral spirits as the liquid medium.  Second, it also does very well if mixed into the actual finish.  You likely will need to do both to achieve the color of that Heylin gun.  Another option to consider is to apply the finish with 220 grit sandpaper and sand the walnut to create a slurry of sawdust and finish on the surface that will fill the open pores of the wood.  Let it dry to a crust and then sand smooth with 320 grit.  After that, you probably will only need a few coats of finish to build up the proper sheen.  When using Tried and True after sealing the grain, make sure you wipe off all excess finish completely and then let dry.  Get finish out of all the nooks, crannies, and corners. The first few coats seem tedious and you won't feel like you are making much progress but very quickly, you will start to build up a sheen.  These guns did not have a dull or low-sheen "oil in the wood look" popular with some modern makers. They have sheens ranging from satin to fairly glossy.
I've attached some photos of original guns so you can see the finishes.

dave   

[Snowmoon]

Hi,
Since I wrote my tutorial, I've discovered 2 things about using alkanet root.  The color is more intense if you use turpentine rather than mineral spirits as the liquid medium.  Second, it also does very well if mixed into the actual finish.  You likely will need to do both to achieve the color of that Heylin gun.  Another option to consider is to apply the finish with 220 grit sandpaper and sand the walnut to create a slurry of sawdust and finish on the surface that will fill the open pores of the wood.  Let it dry to a crust and then sand smooth with 320 grit.  After that, you probably will only need a few coats of finish to build up the proper sheen.  When using Tried and True after sealing the grain, make sure you wipe off all excess finish completely and then let dry.  Get finish out of all the nooks, crannies, and corners. The first few coats seem tedious and you won't feel like you are making much progress but very quickly, you will start to build up a sheen.  These guns did not have a dull or low-sheen "oil in the wood look" popular with some modern makers. They have sheens ranging from satin to fairly glossy.
I've attached some photos of original guns so you can see the finishes.

dave   

Thanks so much, Dave. I will probably have to pester you later with some questions on all of this information. Satin is the minimum I'd like to see.

[Daryl]

Although they are caplocks, the stock finish is very similar - both being English & original.

[AZshot]

I did an experiment with Alkanet in Linseed Oil followed by Chambers Oil that worked well.  See my previous post.  I have not tried Alkanet in turpintine yet, and don't have the months to let it steep before I'll be finisheing my walnut this winter.  But the more red the better, for me.  The Linseed Oil seemed to make it a little red.  Did help the contrast with the figure a lot.  Perhaps darkning the end grain more.

[Snowmoon]

Thank you to Daryl and AZ for your examples and tips, respectively.

[Jim Kibler]

I like the idea of grain being filled as well.  I've used Constantines products in the past that worked well.  They stopped producing it for a while, but offer a product again.  I've not tried it, but intend to and will perhaps offer it for sale.

Jim

[Snowmoon]

I like the idea of grain being filled as well.  I've used Constantines products in the past that worked well.  They stopped producing it for a while, but offer a product again.  I've not tried it, but intend to and will perhaps offer it for sale.

Jim

Much appreciated, Mr. Kibler. Sounds like a good way to go. Do you have an opinion on how appropriate bluing the screw heads is for this gun? Thank you.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I would simply temper blue them.  On screws that are frequently removed like the lock and top jaw bolts, I harden the heads with Kasenit, or now Cherry Red, and then polish them and heat with a butane torch until bright indigo blue (about 600 degrees).  For the rest of the external screws, I polish them and just temper blue them.  The bluing is pretty robust to wear but it will eventually fade to silvery gray.  It can also be easily polished off.

dave

[Snowmoon]

Hi,
I would simply temper blue them.  On screws that are frequently removed like the lock and top jaw bolts, I harden the heads with Kasenit, or now Cherry Red, and then polish them and heat with a butane torch until bright indigo blue (about 600 degrees).  For the rest of the external screws, I polish them and just temper blue them.  The bluing is pretty robust to wear but it will eventually fade to silvery gray.  It can also be easily polished off.

dave

I appreciate the insight, Dave. Case hardening sounds like a great idea. I sent a pm the other day, hope to get in touch soon to talk some business 🙂