Pecatonica river kits

[Snakeman]

Hello, I'm new here and am considering building a rifle. Really looking into a pecatonica river set. What are y'all's thoughts? Also I'm not sure on which style I'll be going for. Planning to build it next year, so doing research now. I'm pretty new to all this although I do have some woodworking and metal work experience and have thrown together a traditions kit.

[rich pierce]

I’ve seen some nice guns built from their pre-carved stocks. In general I’d take any and all names they give their profiles with a grain of salt - just compare the profiles with originals of that “school” before assuming they are correct.  Remember many precarves have a LOT of wood that needs to be removed. A LOT. they are nowhere near finished dimensions.

[snapper]

Their quality is as good as anyone's.  I know the owners and enjoy seeing them at Fship twice a year.

There might not be any perfect kit, but they sell a great product at a good price.

If you find something you like, buy it, you will learn from it and enjoy the process.

If you are normal, the kit will take you 5 years or more to finish it as it is human nature.

Fleener

[Snakeman]

I’ve seen some nice guns built from their pre-carved stocks. In general I’d take any and all names they give their profiles with a grain of salt - just compare the profiles with originals of that “school” before assuming they are correct.  Remember many precarves have a LOT of wood that needs to be removed. A LOT. they are nowhere near finished dimensions.

I'm assuming you mean the precarves aren't period correct? I suppose that's ok on my book as intend to hunt with it. As long as it's quality parts and accurate shooter, I'll be happy with it. It'll be my learning curve that I get frustrated with I'm sure. I don't have people in my area that are into this stuff to help me much. Muzzleloading in general isn't popular here sadly.

[Snakeman]

Their quality is as good as anyone's.  I know the owners and enjoy seeing them at Fship twice a year.

There might not be any perfect kit, but they sell a great product at a good price.

If you find something you like, buy it, you will learn from it and enjoy the process.

If you are normal, the kit will take you 5 years or more to finish it as it is human nature.

Fleener

I'm hoping I can finish it in a month but I also know how much time projects can take lol. I build guitars and do my own mechanic work and my own home remodels and repairs. I think I just love the ride

[snapper]

Buy it.   No issues with quality.

You will learn something in your journey.  Might be good or might be bad.

It aint like they cost 10K.😊😊

I have learned that I dont like gun building.   I am not good at it and I simply dont like it.  So, I quit trying to make myself do something that brings me no joy.


Fleener

[rich pierce]

I’ve seen some nice guns built from their pre-carved stocks. In general I’d take any and all names they give their profiles with a grain of salt - just compare the profiles with originals of that “school” before assuming they are correct.  Remember many precarves have a LOT of wood that needs to be removed. A LOT. they are nowhere near finished dimensions.

I'm assuming you mean the precarves aren't period correct? I suppose that's ok on my book as intend to hunt with it. As long as it's quality parts and accurate shooter, I'll be happy with it. It'll be my learning curve that I get frustrated with I'm sure. I don't have people in my area that are into this stuff to help me much. Muzzleloading in general isn't popular here sadly.

I’m saying a couple of them are a little odd. The Transitional Kentucky for example. Many are fine. If you’re not looking for something in specific, like “I’d like to build that George Schroyer gun” you’ll do fine. Just don’t assume any “not near ready for sanding” pre carved stock is supposed to be fat where it’s fat and flat where it’s flat when you’re done shaping if you want it shaped like originals. 

[Snakeman]

I’ve seen some nice guns built from their pre-carved stocks. In general I’d take any and all names they give their profiles with a grain of salt - just compare the profiles with originals of that “school” before assuming they are correct.  Remember many precarves have a LOT of wood that needs to be removed. A LOT. they are nowhere near finished dimensions.

I'm assuming you mean the precarves aren't period correct? I suppose that's ok on my book as intend to hunt with it. As long as it's quality parts and accurate shooter, I'll be happy with it. It'll be my learning curve that I get frustrated with I'm sure. I don't have people in my area that are into this stuff to help me much. Muzzleloading in general isn't popular here sadly.

I’m saying a couple of them are a little odd. The Transitional Kentucky for example. Many are fine. If you’re not looking for something in specific, like “I’d like to build that George Schroyer gun” you’ll do fine. Just don’t assume any “not near ready for sanding” pre carved stock is supposed to be fat where it’s fat and flat where it’s flat when you’re done shaping if you want it shaped like originals.

Oh I gotcha. Thank you

[Snakeman]

Buy it.   No issues with quality.

You will learn something in your journey.  Might be good or might be bad.

It aint like they cost 10K.😊😊

I have learned that I dont like gun building.   I am not good at it and I simply dont like it.  So, I quit trying to make myself do something that brings me no joy.


Fleener

I understand that. Makes sense to me.

[elk killer]

just be willing to remove a LOT of wood, they have done a few barrel channels for me, and they always inlet the barrel way too deep, have to remove a LOT of wood off the top , but they do a good job for the price

[elk killer]

post where you live might be someone close by you dont know about that knows gum building

[Eric Krewson]

Don't let them inlet for your lock, the inlet might not be in the right place, do it yourself.

[smylee grouch]

I have never bought one of their kits but have always been happy with the stock blanks I got from them.

[Snakeman]

post where you live might be someone close by you dont know about that knows gum building

I live near San Angelo, Tx

[HSmithTX]

Don't get the lock or the triggers inlet. Get the barrel where it needs to be and then do those yourself.  I have done one Pectonica and the barrel was deep,  the lock was too far back and low even for the barrel already being deep, the triggers were WAY WAY high in the stock given the lock position making it nearly impossible to get them in and functioning without sticking out of the bottom of the stock. I am a one and done customer for their "kit".  Good parts, but it is a lot easier to put stuff where it goes than it is to figure out how to fix what you have and especially as a new builder who really doesn't 100% understand how things work together. 

[FDR]

If you want to finish a rifle in a month get a Kibler kit. With their kits you also get great video step by step instructions. For a first time builder the instructions are a god sent.

Fred

[Scota4570]

IF you like any of the Kiblers that is a good first kit.  You will learn what such a rifle should look and feel like.  His rifles are excellent in every way.  From there building from a plank or precarve will go better. 

Also, my understanding is that the barrels are supposed to be swamped.  My first high hour build was an "Armstrong" with a 13/16" barrel, built from Pecatonica parts.  A straight barrel is incorrect.  It should be swamped.  I also made the length of pull way to long. I also used a Siler lock, which is the wrong shape.   The web between the barrel and ramrod is to thick. 

IF I had seen a real rifle or a Kibler first I would not have made those mistakes.  Someday I will make another and do it better. 

It depends on your expectations.  IF you want a functional rifle you will be fine.  IF you want a near exact replica you need to go elsewhere.   Making a near exact replica is not realistic for the first build.  Whatever you do build something.  There will be things that you do better on the next one.  Improvement is what keeps it interesting.   

[Ky-Flinter]

I built my first ML rifle from a Pecatonica kit a long time ago.  It was what they called a southern mountain rifle.  It took me about 6 months to build it, and I was very happy with it.  I won matches and killed deer with it.  Back then they called these kits "90% inletted".  This means none of the parts will fit in the stock as received.  You have to remove wood to fit each part.  I learned a lot from that rifle.  Pecatonica is a good company to deal with.

Ron

[Snakeman]

IF you like any of the Kiblers that is a good first kit.  You will learn what such a rifle should look and feel like.  His rifles are excellent in every way.  From there building from a plank or precarve will go better. 

Also, my understanding is that the barrels are supposed to be swamped.  My first high hour build was an "Armstrong" with a 13/16" barrel, built from Pecatonica parts.  A straight barrel is incorrect.  It should be swamped.  I also made the length of pull way to long. I also used a Siler lock, which is the wrong shape.   The web between the barrel and ramrod is to thick. 

IF I had seen a real rifle or a Kibler first I would not have made those mistakes.  Someday I will make another and do it better. 

It depends on your expectations.  IF you want a functional rifle you will be fine.  IF you want a near exact replica you need to go elsewhere.   Making a near exact replica is not realistic for the first build.  Whatever you do build something.  There will be things that you do better on the next one.  Improvement is what keeps it interesting.

I can't afford a kibler.

[Dave Marsh]

I would suggest you compare Pecatonica prices to a Kibler in detail.     

[HSmithTX]

Check into the costs for everything you need. I paid just about even money for my Pecatonica "kit" to what Kibler charges.  When all was said and done I was about $1300 deep in a Hawken-ish set of parts.  And the lock I have is super far behind a Kibler lock.  Someone should start badgering Jim to make a lock with a blank plate.....

I didn't think I could afford a Kibler either at the time though I would have figured out how if he had the type and bore I wanted.  When I got close to 150 hours later on the other "kit" I was wholeheartedly rethinking it.  Lots of those hours were uncopulating the mis-located lock and triggers a very little at a time and a good amount spent correcting the stock to more closely resemble a Hawken.  The wood and metal take-er-offer is way easier and less expensive than the wood and metal put-er-back-on-er so lots of looking and checking went into every move. A veteran builder I am sure could have done it a lot faster. 

[Snakeman]

Check into the costs for everything you need. I paid just about even money for my Pecatonica "kit" to what Kibler charges.  When all was said and done I was about $1300 deep in a Hawken-ish set of parts.  And the lock I have is super far behind a Kibler lock.  Someone should start badgering Jim to make a lock with a blank plate.....

I didn't think I could afford a Kibler either at the time though I would have figured out how if he had the type and bore I wanted.  When I got close to 150 hours later on the other "kit" I was wholeheartedly rethinking it.  Lots of those hours were uncopulating the mis-located lock and triggers a very little at a time and a good amount spent correcting the stock to more closely resemble a Hawken.  The wood and metal take-er-offer is way easier and less expensive than the wood and metal put-er-back-on-er so lots of looking and checking went into every move. A veteran builder I am sure could have done it a lot faster.

Dang. That's a lot more than I was expecting. I'm trying to keep the whole build under 1000. If I can't, then the the barrier of entry is just too high for everyone to enjoy sadly. That's one reason why this whole tradition is dwindling among modern shooters. Just way too high to justify buying in for most folks.

[2 shots]

 dont go by pecs website prices , they are old.

[Jim Kibler]

Send us a message at info@kiblerslongrifles.com

We may be able to find a "second" stock that will meet your $1000 budget.  Mention we were talking on ALR.

Thanks
Jim

[Bill in Md]

Buy a "kit" that will tax your skills. In a world of "on demand" and "cookie cutter" it is a good thing to actually have some skin in the game so to speak. I agree with Eric Krewson wrt the lock. Every rifleman should not only be able to inlet his lock, but be able to tune and service it. Plus it makes alignment so much easier Carving on your stock should be seen as icing on the cake along with the brass and iron fitting!.....Get Chuck Dixon's book, and gather up your hand tools!