shifting point of aim with non adjustable sights

[Justin Urbantas]

So, I have been shooting a musket that has the front sight and rear sight soldered to the barrel. The rear sight is slide adjustable for elevation, but not for windage.
Currently it is shooting about 6" right at 100 yds. How would I go about shifting that group to the left.
The front sight is a little thicker than I like, so I thought about removing a bit of metal from one side or the other, and maybe that would help. Which side would I file so send the bullets left?
I thought about maybe also widening the rear sight, but it is already a pretty wide notch.
Any ideas or suggestions?

[snapper]

I had a flintlock with the same issue.  I simply heated up the front sight to soften the solder and nudged it over a little.  For me it did not need much of a nudge.

Fleener

[smylee grouch]

If the sight is too thick I would " Worry " some off the left side. Measure, file and shoot. Measure how much your group moves with that much correction. Repeat if needed.

[pulaski]

what is the length between front and rear sights ?

[bluenoser]

You could do the math to get an idea of how much a sight needs to move.
(sight radius/distance to target) X desired shift in POI.  All measurements in inches.

[pulaski]

Sight radius x distance to move (6) , Divided by 3600 . This will give you the distance to move the sight .
That is the formula for 100 yds.
If you want to do 50yds. divide by 1800
pulaski

[Daryl]

To move the windage to the left, rear sight to the left, front sight to the right: so , move it to the right, or file some off the left side.

[Bob Gerard]

A very good friend shoots only original muskets - ‘61 and an LG&Y Springfield,  a Macon, and a few European muskets as well such as his Camerabusca(sp). All have unmovable sights for windage, as usual. Charlie is an incredible marksman (USMC MSeargent and Rifle Instructor, retired). He learns where each gun hits at what range and aims accordingly. It works, as he is a major competition shooter, including with the N-SSA, using only these old originals. As he said, it takes lots of practice (and skill!).

[AZshot]

I agree, I would just "shade" over to the side of the bullseye.  6" over from where you want to hit is not far, but you didn't say what size bull you are using.  Kentucky windage, if you will.

[Clowdis]

The front sight is likely soft soldered on so take a torch, heat the barrel and sight enough to soften the solder and roll it the sight slightly to the right.

[Top Jaw]

Before you file or heat and move it, you might want to do some test firing using the right edge of the front site centered in the rear notch and on the target at 100 yds.  That would let you know if filing some off the left side will have enough adjustment to make a difference.  If holding the right side on the target center doesn’t over correct to the left a little more (more than your 6”), then you know that filing alone won’t get you to center.  And heating and sliding the front sight may be in order.  This may also give you some ballpark measurements to go by for either operation.   

[Scota4570]

Given a 40" sight radius, 6" @ 100 yards shift, requires the front sight be moved 0.066", call it 1/16".

[bluenoser]

Taking 1/16" off one side of the front sight would only shift the center of the sight 1/32", so correction by filing is likely not an option.

[alacran]

If your notch is pretty wide, hold the front sight to the left side of the notch.
I have questions, is this a smoothbore musket, how much is the light part of your problem? If it is a smoothbore and you can get it to group at 100 yards, you are doing good. How much have you shot this gun and at how many different gun ranges? Six inches to the right may not be a problem inherently with the sights.

[A Scanlan]

WOW!  Never realized I needed a calculator to make an adjustment.  Maybe that's why I'm such a poor shooter.

[rich pierce]

I’m just surprised nobody suggested bending the barrel yet. Just kidding!

We are often using muskets with round balls for target and hunting big game, but they were designed for ranks of soldiers sending volleys of round balls at ranks of opposing soldiers at close range. So I guess it’s not surprising that it’s challenging to get great accuracy with a system not designed for it. I think moving the sight over by melting the solder.

[T*O*F]

I think moving the sight over by melting the solder.

It's a 3 handed job.  I would suggest that you have a friend helping you or it'll end up on the floor.

[smylee grouch]

I think moving the sight over by melting the solder.

It's a 3 handed job.  I would suggest that you have a friend helping you or it'll end up on the floor.

.  Yes and a special " C " clamp with one concave  shape " pad" and one with a slot cut into it that matches the sight blade can help also.

[Scota4570]

I have a couple pair of these locking pliers.   I modified the locking pads for special jobs, like holding sights and loops for soldering.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/locking-pliers/locking-clamp/6-in-c-clamp-locking-pliers-63863.html

[bluenoser]

I use an arched piece of salvaged flat spring with a notch to engage the sight or loop cut into one end and the other end clamped to the barrel.

[smylee grouch]

Bluenoser, that sounds like a good idea ! Maybe use an repurposed old hacksaw blade would work.   

[bluenoser]

Yep, that should work if it can be bent without breaking.   A dedicated packrat, I rarely throw out a spring.  Pieces of recoil or rope starter spring work well.

[Bob Roller]

With stationary sights Bill Large said "Here is where the high powered guesswork comes in". . Hold high.low or off to one side ot the other.
Bob Roller

[Hungry Horse]

 My grandad used to say when shooting a gun that had sight off a little ‘ Ya gotta shoot where it ain’t”.

Hungry Horse

[Flint62Smoothie]

Bend the barrel … done!

Have now done over a dozen, a few of my own too!