Chainsaw bar filing gizmo for barrel inlet finishing

[rich pierce]

I have this gizmo for truing up chainsaw bars to make the top edges square. It works a charm for tight spots in a barrel inlet. Just thought of it today as I was finishing up a barrel inlet. 

[2 shots]

great idea. thanks

[45-110]

Where did you buy that file holder? A brand name would be helpful.

[rich pierce]

https://www.amazon.com/01-Dressers-Repairer-Accuracy-Husqvarna/dp/B08PVT86MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.W_hpDJw2A8QtfrgECwv7tb5riSFnNdTQbKXkiXo08jU-Mzp3RCTAeeohZX7Th1U4SynPDSvvBC9ICmMwtSyahPp-nDIHrBxR2BC0Sj8Lrqtkf8C0zhUIVXyvXX0nN97L0Wi8QLQfGMqt8ccFsdz5nGdHFkc0-D-b11mhofZPoUWQAoHV7gmXYFG3LD_TCgirIqfi6bKfsp1OTUfQHwrN3A.QnUq2tIyP22gNfPfI4_MSUiT5vwDga2-LNsuTXEMrLo&dib_tag=se&keywords=chainsaw+bar+tool&qid=1735931075&sr=8-3

[Scota4570]

I like the concept.  Has it been tested?  I see an issue, I always do : ).  It needs support on both sides of the undersized inlet?  I see the clamp side being short.  Am I missing something? 

[rich pierce]

I like the concept.  Has it been tested?  I see an issue, I always do : ).  It needs support on both sides of the undersized inlet?  I see the clamp side being short.  Am I missing something?

It’s working for me. The stock blank is flat with the barrel inlet into it. Run the green ledge along the flat wood with the file edge in the barrel channel. Pull the file toward the edge while filing a short section of wood. It takes off the inletting black or smoke or whatever, cleanly, truing the side of the inlet. The depth of the file piece is easily adjusted.

[Bigmon]

Could we see a photo or so of how you are using it?  I am not getting the picture??
Thanks

[45-110]

Rich, I got one ordered from amazon, thanks for the info

[rich pierce]

Could we see a photo or so of how you are using it?  I am not getting the picture??
Thanks

[Steeltrap]

So....that gizmo controls just the depth of the file it's holding. If you file to much you could widen the channel to much....but that's what the make straight edges and pencils for.   

[rich pierce]

So....that gizmo controls just the depth of the file it's holding. If you file to much you could widen the channel to much....but that's what the make straight edges and pencils for.   

I am using it to press against and remove minute and accurate amounts of wood from the edges of the barrel inlet, where the inlet it too tight.

It’s clearly not for everyone, since only one person has ever used it for this purpose. 

[Steeltrap]

So....that gizmo controls just the depth of the file it's holding. If you file to much you could widen the channel to much....but that's what the make straight edges and pencils for.   

I am using it to press against and remove minute and accurate amounts of wood from the edges of the barrel inlet, where the inlet it too tight.

It’s clearly not for everyone, since only one person has ever used it for this purpose. 

My two points (I think 2) was that to "control" the removal of wood to widen the channel, a pencil line would be very helpful if you're removing "a lot". For the small amounts you are referring to I would think a transfer agent...or a good set of eyes would help that.

My second point was with the ability to adjust the depth of the file, it would be very difficult, short of holding the tool at an angle, to cut the vertical edge deeper than it should be....as long as the top flat is in fact flat.

I suppose most barrel channels are cut using a machine today. I know I opt for that.   My current pistol build I manually cut the BC and a tool like that would have been very handy indeed.

[rich pierce]

So....that gizmo controls just the depth of the file it's holding. If you file to much you could widen the channel to much....but that's what the make straight edges and pencils for.   

I am using it to press against and remove minute and accurate amounts of wood from the edges of the barrel inlet, where the inlet it too tight.

It’s clearly not for everyone, since only one person has ever used it for this purpose. 

My two points (I think 2) was that to "control" the removal of wood to widen the channel, a pencil line would be very helpful if you're removing "a lot". For the small amounts you are referring to I would think a transfer agent...or a good set of eyes would help that.

My second point was with the ability to adjust the depth of the file, it would be very difficult, short of holding the tool at an angle, to cut the vertical edge deeper than it should be....as long as the top flat is in fact flat.

I suppose most barrel channels are cut using a machine today. I know I opt for that.   My current pistol build I manually cut the BC and a tool like that would have been very handy indeed.

I see your points. I thought I was clear in my starting post but it seems I need to clarify. I’m not selling the tool as something needed at all for those who don’t inlet their barrels themselves. I’m not selling it as something everyone who hand inlets their barrels should use or try. I’m sharing something that worked for me in a very specific application.

I’m not using it as a general, all-purpose, do-everything inletting tool and did not use it to increase depth, though that could be managed easily by using a piece of file with teeth on the lower edge. I am using it to remove inletting black and maybe 0.005” of wood on a done-by-hand barrel inlet that needed a few tight spots adjusted.  I hand inlet the barrel on the vast majority of my builds. Occasionally I have a client who wants a machine inlet barrel and sends the barrel to a guy who provides the wood and does the inlet.

Nobody needs to try or use this tool, or refine the process, or adapt it to do more things. Want to clean up a tight spot in a barrel inlet in 20 seconds while keeping the sides of the barrel channel vertical and clean? This might work for some folks like it did for me. Or be a waste of time and money.l, when others have ways that already work great for them. 

[parve]

Thanks for sharing this Rich, I'll have to get one of these things for myself. I've always erred on the side of too tight for barrel inlets, and this seems like it'll be a lot easier to use than a square rasp to open up any side flat inlets that are just a little too small.

[45-110]

Seems some do not inlet their own barrels, otherwise they would immediately understand the intended purpose of relieving a inlet tight spot. A no gap barrel inlet is quality work.

[Steeltrap]

I didn't mean to illicit a strong response to this post.

I thought the tool had teeth on the bottom of the file, hence my comment on depth. Upon zooming in on the original pics I see the bottom of the file is safe. With bottom teeth on such a tool I can see where the initial vertical plunge of a barrel channel would not be cut to deep as long as the top flats were correct.

I knew you were not selling a tool that can be purchased on Amazon or at a hardware store with prices from $10 to $40.

I don't know of any all purpose, general do everything inletting tool out there.

I have done my own barrel channel inletting, RR hole channel cutting, RR hole drilling. I can see where this idea would work well on both width and depth, even though you are using it just for tiny width adjustments, and I think the idea is great.

I hope that clarifies my response to this thread.

[rich pierce]

No worries, Steeltrap.

[whetrock]

Thanks for showing this, Rich.
I have a very similar tool I made of maple and a 6" mill file. I use it for squaring up the edges of handsaws (the tips of the teeth) before sharpening them. Basically the same as squaring the edge of a chainsaw bar, which is what you mentioned this thing is sold for.

When you hand inlet barrels, do you put a light chamfer on the side flats? I find that to be helpful. With that, the barrel tightens a little as it goes in, so the inlet for the side flats is not square, by a couple degrees. I just hold a file with my finger tips to do the step you are doing with this tool.

I do try to get the inlet tight. And then I push it backward (pecking the muzzle, protected, for course) to be sure it is seated correctly and squared against the back of the breach inlet. If I need to trim the inlet there at all to get it to print as I want, then it will of course move back, and the taper will cause the barrel to become more loose as it moves (except at the muzzle flare, where it will tighten). So it's important that it be snug to start with. Then when all that is figured out, I relieve any spots that I think are too tight, so that it will come in and out without binding.

[bluenoser]

Thanks Rich.  I have been using a section of file freehand to accomplish that and like what I am seeing.  I think it could be improved by somehow widening the base so that it spans the barrel channel.  I see you are using the rail system to inlet, so have a wide flat area to index against.  Got me to thinking.  With different inserts, I think it could also be used to true up the bottom flat and the 45 degree faces although, at times, there would not be hard contact with the top of the forestock.
So many project/ideas and so little time

[rich pierce]

Thanks Rich.  I have been using a section of file freehand to accomplish that and like what I am seeing.  I think it could be improved by somehow widening the base so that it spans the barrel channel.  I see you are using the rail system to inlet, so have a wide flat area to index against.  Got me to thinking.  With different inserts, I think it could also be used to true up the bottom flat and the 45 degree faces although, at times, there would not be hard contact with the top of the forestock.
So many project/ideas and so little time

It’s fun trying different approaches to things. I end up abandoning at least half of my little adaptations or gizmos and improving the others that show promise. Now only if they made files with 45 degree angles! My good friend Tom Curran who has passed, made his own mini rasps and brazed them onto a dogleg chisel arrangement. Worked a charm. He raised burs with a graver in mild steel then case hardened the cutters.

[bluenoser]

That would work.  I was thinking an enterprising soul could solder a section of coarse file to a base having a 45 degree angle and then dress the two edges parallel to the sides of the base.  Could do the same for the bottom flattener, I reckon.  Talk is cheap.  I am still fooling around with your inletting saw idea.  Have a friend with a saw toother cutting 13 point rip teeth on an old (and small) back saw.  Plan to cut it down, put a chisel-style handle on it for cutting on the pull stroke and fashioning adjustable depth stops.  Not saying it will ever happen

[rich pierce]

That would work.  I was thinking an enterprising soul could solder a section of coarse file to a base having a 45 degree angle and then dress the two edges parallel to the sides of the base.  Could do the same for the bottom flattener, I reckon.  Talk is cheap.  I am still fooling around with your inletting saw idea.  Have a friend with a saw toother cutting 13 point rip teeth on an old (and small) back saw.  Plan to cut it down, put a chisel-style handle on it for cutting on the pull stroke and fashioning adjustable depth stops.  Not saying it will ever happen

My next inletting saw will have a deeper blade by a half inch and about 8-10 teeth to the inch. Fine teeth clog quickly and there’s nowhere for the wood dust to go, given there’s little “set” if any to the teeth. I put a small amount of set on one side only.

[bluenoser]

True, but, as I see it, fine teeth are more controllable and leave a smoother sidewall.  The saw would be pulled out of the kerf at the end of each cut stroke but, as you point out, it might have to be pulled out mid stroke to clear the teeth.  The plan is for the saw to be ambidextrous, so no set on either side.  Taper ground would be nice, but I doubt a back saw would be taper ground.  An old good quality hand saw on the other hand .....  Fingers crossed and paste wax handy.

[t.caster]

K.I.S.S.
I set the depth with a safe sided dovetail saw and clean up the too tight sidewalls with a 3" x 21" sanding belt slid tightly over an appropriately sized piece of 3/4" x 3" pine board. I use a slice of ramrod or two on the end to keep the belt tight
Of course I have a lot of scrapers I use. Well, maybe it isn't all that simple, but it's low tech and low budget.

[alhedrick]

looks like it could also work for card scraper sharpening for those who need a little extra help.