East Vs. West

[Realwarrior]

I have a question that I hope you guys can help me with. I recently moved to New Mexico from Texas. Prior to that, I was in Kentucky. Kentucky & Texas were very humid. I am getting ready to start my first build since moving to New Mexico and wanted to know if I should make any allowances for swelling of the wood since New Mexico is so dry. If I build here and take the gun to Kentucky in November, how much swelling am I looking at? If I need to make allowances, how much? Thanks for any advice and insight.

[Stoner creek]

Not much after the finish goes on.

[Blacksmoke]

Yes! If you take a new made  longrifle from dry west to humid east you need to plan for the forestock to " grow" ia little longer.  Sometime as much as 1/8"
And vice versa a eastern made longrifle will shrink a little when going to the dry west!  Elongated slots in the barrel tenons will allow for shrinkage and shrinkage!!  Hugh Toenjes

[Robby]

A lot depends on how seasoned it is.
Robby

[Stoner creek]

I’ve purchased longrifles from that area and had them shipped here. No issues. As for how seasoned the wood is, it should be dry enough to make a gun out of before you start the job. Lots of experts out there. The only time moisture will be an issue is when you leave your gun outside all night. Most folks don’t do that on purpose. It’s humid in Kentucky but we’re not tropical. I agree with slotting the barrel lug pin holes.

[Realwarrior]

Thank you for the replies.

[Old and Grumpy]

I would worry about going the other way. Damp to dry. I moved from a place that got moist sea air at night to southern Nevada. We spend weeks each summer under 10% humidity. Went 3 weeks at 4%.  All the joints on the antiques got loose. Boards cracked. Old glue gave out. As for guns I had to tighten the tail screws on some stalks. If you have one with hair line cracks in the wrist I would watch it. Keep up on the upkeep. Oil the insides of the wood also.

[Realwarrior]

Yeah Old&Grumpy, I thought about that too. I have already had a Martin guitar delaminate at the sides....Wood is the one thing Martin doesnt cover.

[Old and Grumpy]

At least we don't get fast rust.   Or swamp moss in the arm pits!

[Waksupi]

The lock inlet is something you will want to take a bit of extra wood from. Plenty clearance for mainspring and other moving parts. Be sure lock will pretty much fall out in your hand in the west, as the mortise can swell and crack a stock if too tight when you take it to a damp climate.

If building from a plank or pre-cut stock that came from back east, let it set as long as possible. When wood is dry in the east, it still carries a couple percent more moisture than we find in the west. A live evergreen tree in the west may have a lower moisture content than you find in wood at a lumber yard.

[Realwarrior]

Great information on the lock. I can see how that the swelling could crack the wrist and between the lock and trigger

[Clowdis]

Had a friend move from NC to WY with his long rifles. I went out to see him a couple years later and was appalled to see the shrinkage that had taken place on the rifles. What was probably worse was the fore end shrinkage. It had shortened itself maybe 1/8 inch. Thankfully I had slotted the barrel tenons and so his accuracy wasn't affected. Lenson learned.

[Waksupi]

Great information on the lock. I can see how that the swelling could crack the wrist and between the lock and trigger

You may even want to remove the lock while travelling and not shooting. If the wood swells enough to not allow the lock to be put back in the mortise, you may save damaging the stock.

[whetrock]

Removing the locks immediately after a move like this sounds like really good advice.

Regarding the lugs, slot the lug, and also elongate the lug mortise in the wood, on both ends. I've heard of people slotting the lugs, but neglecting to elongate the mortise. If the mortise isn't elongated, the pin can't move in the slot. (And of course you can do this with rifles that are already completed, as well. You can file the mortise a little longer with a needle file.)

Here's a good photo of this, from one Jud Brennan was building.

[Realwarrior]

All great information.  Removing the lock sounds like a great insurance policy

[alacran]

For the last fifteen years I have been taking muzzleloaders from the Arid Southwest to the Midwest Rain Forest. In fact, some of them have been built partially in both places. I have never taken a lock out as some sort of preemptive. Yes, the guns dimensions grow slightly when going West to East, but not enough to damage the lock mortise.
If the lock is fitted properly with adequate draft in the lock plate, you will not have a problem.
The only caveat I would give, if you are spending a week outdoors camping or hunting and your gun gets drenched in rain or snow. Do not take it apart until it slowly dries out. If you have shot it, clean the barrel and lock in place.
The only way to make wood impervious to moisture is to use an epoxy finish, such as Thunderbird bow finish. All surfaces and mortises and the ramrod hole have to be finished with it. I don't do that.
My .54 caliber Hawken has the barrel channel bedded with epoxy, and the stock is finished with 5 coats of spar polyurethane. I can take the barrel out for cleaning. It has been in snow and rain for days on end. Not my favorite finish.
One other thing that will give you problems is a Hickory ramrod that hasn't been properly tapered or is tight in the thimbles. Hickory likes to swell.