A couple of casting round ball questions

[Darkhorse]

It's been many years since I cast round balls and pistol bullets and my memory is hazy on fluxxing. I do remember dropping a lighted match in the pot to burn off some gasses. But I can't remember what I used to flux with or when even.
So what is your steps in casting balls?

[Daryl]

When fluxing with beeswax OR paraffin wax, my lead is hot enough go ignite the wax. I use a fairly long handled tablespoon to stir the pot, scraping the bottom and sides to release all the "dirt" then I skim that off and into a soup can it goes. Once those are full  they go into the garbage & to the dump.
 Dirt being oxidized lead and/or $#@* in the lead.
I then start casting and usually the first ball comes out perfect with no wrinkles. If the ball has few wrinkles, it is because the mould is not hot enough. If the wax ignites, that tells me the lead is a good temp for casting. I have never used a thermometer, some do and swear by them.
If there are a couple wrinkles, I cast another and that one will be good. If not, it goes onto the cutoff sprue tin pie plate for remelting once I've cast enough or the lead is drossing up.

[HighUintas]

How often (minutes) do you guys have to flux? I realize temp and % tin will influence it, but it seems mine oxidizes super fast at 775+. I need to try putting a little tin solder in there.

Would the rosin core in rosin core solder hurt anything for adding a little tin?

[Bill in Md]

I probably flux too much because we have an ample supply of beeswax from being bee keepers. I would say I drop a pinch into the hot lead every 10 balls or so.

[Daryl]

I flux every 30 to 35 balls probably every 20min to 40min.

[HighUintas]

I tried a lower temperature 700-750 and used the pressure pour method a couple of times. When at 700-725, I couldn't keep the mold hot enough (maybe I was too slow) and many were wrinkly although there was fewer that had the little strings.

750-760 worked pretty well after I got into a faster rhythm. More strings, but only had a couple with wrinkles and fill out was good.

This was without using any tin in the mix. I'm thinking if I use a wee bit of tin and keep it around 725, maybe there's a sweet spot.

I also need to try to to be able to flux less often my I think with pure lead in the 750-775 range I need to flux every 10 minutes. Too often to keep my mold hot without a hot plate.

I'll get some pictures of the latest casting up later today.

I shot yesterday a bit, with the 80gr 2f load that I previously had good results with. I shot one target with some balls I had previously cast hotter and just pouring instead of pressure pouring and another target with pressure poured balls.

Strangely, the accuracy and POI for the older balls was very poor compared to the pressure poured balls.

I wonder if some of my older balls have dross and/or air pockets in them that is contributing to my infrequent terrible accuracy and frustration.

[smylee grouch]

Keep your ladle above the mold, pour the lead as the mold is over the pot, pour enough so that you have a puddle on top, hold mold level as you put ladle  down , keep mold level until the lead cools and the mold draws that tiny bit in through the spru hole, when solid cut spru off and repeat.

[Bill in Md]

Like everything else in Black Powder, casting is a very simple process that does not need to be over complicated. A thermometer is not needed, nor are fancy casting pots.....I use an antique cast iron ladle that holds about a cup of melted lead.A good constant heat source is needed though. I simply use an old table top portable Coleman propane stove and cast on my outdoor workbench. I cut medical sheet lead into small pieces or use old pieces of lead, and put them in the ladle until they become molten.....At that point I flux, then skim the crud off with an old spoon.

I keep the mold right next to the fire to keep it hot. After 2 balls she is hot enough to cast perfect balls. I add a pinch of beeswax every 10 to 12 balls but could probably get more balls in between, but as I said earlier, I have plenty of wax to burn. I find casting lead balls a very satisfying, and part of the whole process of the simple functionality of Longrifles.

[B.Habermehl]

I tried a lower temperature 700-750 and used the pressure pour method a couple of times. When at 700-725, I couldn't keep the mold hot enough (maybe I was too slow) and many were wrinkly although there was fewer that had the little strings.

750-760 worked pretty well after I got into a faster rhythm. More strings, but only had a couple with wrinkles and fill out was good.

This was without using any tin in the mix. I'm thinking if I use a wee bit of tin and keep it around 725, maybe there's a sweet spot.


Sound like you need to change one variable at a time, and weigh your balls. It’s the Dutch Shoults method, one variable at a time. Record your results. Soon you’ll have things dialed in. Finished ball weight variation is the key. Sort your balls by weight group. You can get a cheap digital scale from Temu, Amazon or wherever, to make things quicker.  BJH

I also need to try to to be able to flux less often my I think with pure lead in the 750-775 range I need to flux every 10 minutes. Too often to keep my mold hot without a hot plate.

I'll get some pictures of the latest casting up later today.

I shot yesterday a bit, with the 80gr 2f load that I previously had good results with. I shot one target with some balls I had previously cast hotter and just pouring instead of pressure pouring and another target with pressure poured balls.

Strangely, the accuracy and POI for the older balls was very poor compared to the pressure poured balls.

I wonder if some of my older balls have dross and/or air pockets in them that is contributing to my infrequent terrible accuracy and frustration.

[Daryl]

I now have 145 round balls cast for my match rifle. That's 10 pounds even of pure lead.

[Hungry Horse]

 I would say dross could be a problem. But, adding tin to your casting metal will limit the amount the balls shrink back, which adds a couple of thousandths to the diameter of the balls. This can make them stick in the mold, and hard to load if you are using a very tight patch and ball formula.

Hungry Horse

[Daryl]

Interesting hypothesis, HH.
A 1/2" of 50/50 solder in 20 pounds of pure lead doesn't increase the size at all nor does it decrease the weight at all.
On the other hand, any of the typical lead/tin bullet alloys will decrease the weight and by a minute amount increase the size. Whether I am casting pure lead at 5 brinel or alloys up to Lynotype at 21 brinel, no balls nor bullets stick in the mould that a tap on the hinge with the hammer handle doesn't dislodge.

[HighUintas]

I haven't tested my good vs bad balls again yet. I've got some where I casted balls being less diligent with fluxing and removing dross (balls kept still looking ok and don't have obvious inclusions) and some where I did a much better job if it.

I will test them side by side to see if there's much difference.

[Daryl]

Why would you keep badly cast balls?
At 20 to 50yards, might not be a difference.
The larger the balls, the less difference there will be,
however, with out of round balls vs. round balls there
will be more difference.

[HighUintas]

Why would you keep badly cast balls?
At 20 to 50yards, might not be a difference.
The larger the balls, the less difference there will be,
however, with out of round balls vs. round balls there
will be more difference.

I didn't use accurate language there. They're not actually bad, that I can tell. They look good, weigh good, but we're cast using a method being less diligent with the fluxing and dross removal

[smylee grouch]

I'm thinking that if the balls are filled out with no visible defects, voids or wrinkles using pure clean lead they should all weigh with in a couple of grains of each other on med sized balls.

[Daryl]

If they look good, weigh good, they are good. THAT method used to cast them, appears to work.
I like every ball cast, to be good. I assume everyone achieves their own system and routine according to what works for their casting speed.