Fowler Sight Picture

[Woodpecker]

To the original post, if I overlooked what was the powder charge you used?

1oz scoop of Shuetzen 2F, cardboard, 1-1/8oz #5 or 7.5, cardboard. Primed with the same 2F. Over the last year I've tested equal loads from 3/4oz to 1-1/8oz. I've tried felt, cards, and cardboard wads.

[Daryl]

I don't have my chart with me, but I think a 68 or 70gr. powder measure throws 1 ounce of shot.IIRC
68gr. is 2 1/2 drams.

[Woodpecker]

I went back to the patterning board today at 15 yards from muzzle to board. Instead of stacking felt dots as a rib I used pre-cut and measured wooden blocks as better shims. The sight picture was to keep the sight on the flat (or shim) and the dove on the sight like it was sitting on it.

Load was 1oz scoop Scheutzen 2F, 3 thin cards, 1/8oz #7.5 and another thin card. Bag was under the first ramrod pipe for support, butt squared tight to shoulder.

Since I can't find pictures of anyone else's pattern results I want to share mine in case anyone finds themselves with the same issue.

Shot #1 was taken with no shim. It shows the overall pattern to be good but the center is low (8-9") and a bit to the right.
 


Shot #2 was taken at the same paper to compare the overlay. I considered both identical.



Shot #3 was with new paper and a 3/8" shim. This proved about 5-6" higher than I'd like. Shot #4 (not shown) duplicated the result.



Shot #5 was with a 5/16" shim and shows the pattern right where I want it. Shot #6 (not shown) duplicated the result.



I think the 5/16 height will allow me to have the same sight picture that I'm used to. In looking up other fowler barrel profiles, many seem to have a wider breech and shorter barrel so that the sight slope is steeper than this one and those may shoot closer to what many like myself (new to flintlock and 44" barrels) think they should. I also think the raised tang that is seen on so many originals may have solved for this as well. Or at least reduced it.

I'd like to add that I kept the same powder and cards while reducing shot to 1oz and 7/8oz and while pellet count was slightly reduced, patterns remained centered at 15 yards and well spaced.

[Hungry Horse]

 Just bend the barrel and get on with it. In my opinion you will probably end up bending it eventually anyway. I built my barrel bender from stuff you could probably find cheap at yard sales and have bend several barrels locally, and have loaned it out several times when I didn’t want to press my luck on some strangers expensive parts. My trade gun shoots like a rife at 50 yards, and can keep it on a deer target at a hundred yards.
 By the way I use no patch when shooting a round ball. Just an undersized ball about .590 in my 20 gauge and a wet chunk of cushion wad over about 70 grains of 2F.

Hungry Horse

[Woodpecker]

2x4 on both ends and a C clamp?

[Pukka Bundook]

Foork in a tree works well, Woodpecker.

[rich pierce]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=27170.msg259257#msg259257

[Hungry Horse]

 My bender is a little more scientific than a “C” clamp and a 2X4, or a tree crotch, but not by much. I use a EMT bender head attached to a scissor jack. I also picked up an old cast iron barbell weight to replace the jack handle and keep thing a little more compact. I think all the pieces and parts cost me maybe twelve bucks. So far no barrels have been kinked with this machine, and I love having people guess what it does.

Hungry Horse

[Leatherbark]

I tried that bending over a tree branch once with a .410 and when I got done the barrel looked like a banana.  When I tried to straighten up the mess it looked like an "S" shape. I still have that gun somewhere.  So next time I'll use a "C" clamp and 2x4's and a dial indicator would be nice.

Bob