Anybody tried Shooter Solutions' Best Gun Blue?

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

A friend ordered some fo an old shotgun so we will see how it works in a couple of weeks,  The video on their site is Very impressive.....but what is not being shown??

Shooter Solutions' Best Gun Blue http://www.shootersolutions.com/vaningunblu.html

[Artificer]

This reminds me of a cold blue formula we used back in the 1980's called "Hi Score" or something like that.  I had never seen it before and never saw it again.  One of my mentors got about a dozen bottles of it when he bought out a retiring gunsmith's original muzzleloading parts.

What I would lie to know is how well it stands up to surface abrasion.  This is the primary reason I don't use 44-40 and do use Brownell's Oxpho Blue cold blue.  44-40 gives you a richer color faster, but it wears off rather easily.

I'd be extremely interested in what you find out.
Gus

[t.l.a.r. eng]

Not all metals take to cold bluing the same, and he is probably working with a steel that blues very easily.
I am not to impressed with 44-40 as it works great on mild steel, but not on leaded steel or some breech parts.
Brownells Oxpho-blue works great on a wide variety of metals, but I would like to give the guy from Shooters solutions some parts that I fought to cold blue and see how well his solution works.
Hot bluing would be better.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I have used the 44/40 and for rust bluing it works fine.  Homer Dangler's Browning solution works good too.... I have avoided just trying to blue a gun because It has seemed as if Hot bluing was the only substantial method and I have no time nor place for that.  CharcoalFire blued would be great, but again, no place and not enough volume to get good at it.

I hope this Shooter's solutions stuff is magic!!  I will report how it goes when he gets the stuff.

[jwh1947]

Allow me to let you in on a little secret, one that some gunsmiths around here would like to keep under wraps.  You can get apparent hot-blue results with Van's formula.  The trick is in preparation and application, and this I'll let you work out for yourself.  Some of the boys are using this and passing the work off as hot-salt blue.  It can be made to come out that well.  I've done it more than once and make no claims as to how I achieved the finish.  Customers never ask; they just assume I used a hot tank.  With OSHA and disposal of used chemicals being a major issue, Van's provides a professional alternative entirely satisfactory to my customers.  Whole guns or blend-in touch ups with no lines.  I would not suggest it if I had not achieved good results myself.  After being introduced to this stuff I have thrown in the garbage all other products--some actually no more than paint---including Brownells and all other popular commercial brands. 

[westerner]

Looks like, acts like Oxpho Blue instant blue. The only time I use it is on blued parts to make them look old or match an old worn blueing.

I dip a  part and let it sit in open air over night then steel wool it off till I get what I want. Wears off fast.

I wouldnt ever use it to blue a barrel.

Here's a replacement false muzzle and bullet starter on an old original percussion schutzen rifle. I used Oxpho Blue to match it up.



           Joe.  

[Old Ford2]

To : jwh1947
What is "Van's formula"
I have never heard of it, but would like to know more.
Best regards.
Old Ford

[g.pennell]

Just "googled" them up...

http://www.vansgunblue.com/

I think I might try some as well.

Greg

[jwh1947]

Yep, that's the chemical.  Actually goes into the metal about 50% the depth of hot blue job.  I would add to preparation, professional "sandblaster" useful for prep.  Silicon carbide and other media the secret.  They all differ, and people vary on the details of the  touch-up process....your choice.  Feathering possibilities are only limited by your experience and skill.  Enjoy.  Honest men have no secrets.  Now I head for the bunker, as I have shared a trade secret.  Same as a housepainter...prep is everything.  Wayne

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

OK, You hooked me. I ordered some Van's.  Thanks Wayne.

[billd]

I used oxpho blue on an old side by side. I burnished it in first with scotchbrite then additional coats applied with steel wool. Looked great but it wore off fast from shooting with leather gloves on.
Bill

[jwh1947]

Regarding chemical reactivity, many populr brands are actually paint.  That's why they wear off and always presents a seam where it meets the original.  Plus, they stink. Van's will go anywhere where bare ferrous metal is present and not cut in over previous oxidation.  The surface must be completely free of any oils...completely free...and use a toothbrush, over and over until you get the color you want.  Do not use a Q-tip, as there is lanolin sometimes in there.  No finger oils on the surface, either, or you'll get a nice print suitable for an FBI file. 

One of the things we do for food is buy decent pistols lacking finish but with no pitting. Then we spend an afternoon doing a few and off to the show.  Never a complaint.  Never a question.  Can simulate parkerizing too with a coarser blasting medium.

[wmrike]

I see three variables to a cold blue job.  As noted above, some steels take blue more readily than others.  Surface prep is huge - the job may be smaller or cheaper, but there just aren't any shortcuts.  Application is the last item.  I've only gotten good results from wiping the solution on with a single, sloppy wet pass or an immersion.  Wire-brush and repeat.

Oxpho is a phosphate treatment and is a different animal althgether.  I've gotten good and bad results (see above) but regardless it leaves a very rust-resistant surface.  I've never gotten the sheen from Oxpho that I can with a cold or rust blue.

[Daryl]

I use Birchwood Casey's gun blue cream.  It's a pastel/blue in colour in the tube, but when rubbed well into the steel, make a good, fairly long lasting blue compared to the other's I've used. You don't have to remove and reapply, just smear and rub in some more & do about 3 to 5 coats before wiping, rubbing the surface, then WD40 and it's done.  Does a good job on locks, small parts and even pistol barrels. Nice blue flash to it as well. I find it the easiest for me to get a descent cold blue job done.
Here's the Pedersoli .58 Double rifle I worked on- refiling the breeches and cold bluing the locks and tang.