Gold lining a flash pan

[rick landes]

I did a search for my subject and came up blank.

Its seems to me Jerry H. had show us how he does it about 2 years back but I was unable to find it.

Would someone(s) be so kind as to share how you go about lining a pan? I am planning on using a small 1 gram piece of .9999 bar that I have.

Best I can remember is to raise a rough surface in the pan with a small punch and rub/swage to gold into place. Somewhat like Velcro if you will.

What about the edges of the pan how to seal the surface tight?

I have the lock mirror finished and plan on doing a rust blue to be removed into a French Grey finish. When step wise do I line the pan. I am believing it is before the rust bluing???

This is on a Chambers Golden Age lock if that makes an installation difference.

[David Veith]

I think it was on the old board.
David Veith

[Dave B]

Here is a discussion about gold pan lining from the Archives by J Huddleston.
http://americanlongrifles.org/old_board/index.php?topic=45.0

It may require logging in to the archives.

[Acer Saccharum]

I have never done a gold lined pan. Below is my limited understanding of the process.

For a sheet gold liner:
You have to cut barbs in the pan, all facing in toward the center. Then you peen the gold onto the barbs and burnish it all down.

I have also seen it done with wires laid side by side, and peened in place. But this is not as durable as the sheet inlay. I have a picture somewhere of a pan lined in this manner, but some of the wires had blown off due to the fierce blast from the touch hole.

Tom

[Dave B]

The plating will not withstand the gas cutting from the touch hole flash. It will be fine as long as you never shoot it.
Jerry talks about that in one of his previous posts in the archives.

[DutchGramps]

You could consider the amalgam method: dissolve the gold in mercury, etch the part to be plated, put the amalgam in place with a brush and heat until the mercury has evaporated. VERY DANGEROUS! only do this when you have access to a fume cupboard with adequate filter.
I used it when I was young and a bit irresponsible, but I have used that fume hood so I am still in reasonable good health.

[Acer Saccharum]

Mad as a hatter.

Mercury was used to make felt. Workers got poisoned, and went crazy from it.

[Captchee]

  Good morning folks .
 Have not posted here for years  so I guess ill say hi again .

 Jerry and I  were discussing this  very thing  some  months back , while at a local shoot .
  The practice of doing inlays , is not that hard . In fact would take much less time and expense then plating .
 You don’t need chemicals, electricity  or really any special tools , that you cannot make  

 I have to laugh  because  a couple years back  jerry and I were talking about a piece I had done  and the subject came to the gold  pan ..
 Jerry had ask about my gold  and where I got it, the alloy and such . See the color was a little off .
  We both had a real good laugh when I explained I got it from NAPA , LOL

 See on that piece I had  plated the pan by brazing  it . Then  grinding and polishing  .  What had happened was that I had cast  my own pan  and could not get the casting to raise a burr .  I could have undercut and laid in a plate  but  I was very frustrated at the time ,So I cheated LOL
 
 But anyway , back to the subject at hand .
As I said , once you learn the  basics , doing  a pan is no different  then doing   a bright inlay anywhere else .  Simply  put ,.Its only a mater of raising Burrs  then hammering material under then . The burrs hold the material in place

 Now what does change is  the material your working with .
 By working through the metals , you also learn  what it takes to anneal  the material you working with   as well as learning how the given material work hardens  
  When you  find you can  inlay using copper . Then you should have no problem with  doing the same thing in gold . Its all about getting the feel for the material your using ..

Steve Lindsay has a very good  tutorial  on  the process of Inlay and damascening on his engraving site  .

 If its proper to post links to other sites . I would be glad  to provide it for you all .

[Ken G]

You can post a link to another site.
Ken

[Captchee]

ok thank you .

 here are some links  to help  folks along

http://www.francolini.com/s33582a.php

http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=2234&highlight=gold+inlay+tutorial

http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1893&highlight=gold+inlay+tutorial

 steve  also has a number of Videos he has placed on U tube  to show  step by step  the process .
 here is a link to those  concerning this subject
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=1birdflu#g/u


 for those who have never visited Steve Lindsays  engraving  web site . you might enjoy this
http://www.engravingforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=2

[El Lobo]

Thank you for the links.  There is some amazing work shown on those sites.

Lobo

[Captchee]

  good morning .

your more the welcome .
 And Yes , if you look around  Steve’s Site , you will find simply mind boggling work .
 But if you  try not to be distracted by that , you will also  find  links to free online books that will help  even in layout of wood carvings

 as a note
 You will notice  , i provided a couple   different quality of tutorial links .  basically what i was doing was showing  how well  even someone who is just learning   inlaying techniques  can achieve reasonable results .

 Hope this   will help answer  the question at hand .
 Be safe

 PS.
I also  Like to put a shameless  plug here  for the  Lindsey graver . I own one of his classics. luckily I won it    in one of his contests .
I  can tell you its everything  that its stated to be . From day one I have be  simply   astounded .
 If your like me , and you hands  are now shot from  a lifetime of  hard labor and find that you can no longer hold a chase graver or  that the buzz of other gravers aggravates  the arthritis . I have found that  it does not hurt me to use  the classic.  either  set to heavy blow or  very light .
 It just hums right along .