General discussion > Contemporary Longrifle Collecting
Iron mounted rifle from 1972
flintriflesmith:
I thought some of you might be interested in pictures of a rifle made by Wallace Gusler in 1972. I had it on my table at the CLA show and it attracted a lot of interest and comments.
Below is the link to the web page on my site.
Gary
http://flintriflesmith.com/GunshopEraGuns/Wallace_Gusler_Iron_Mounted_Rifle.htm
Tim Crosby:
Thanks for posting the pics, great rifle. Also, that is a nice rack for James City Co.
Tim C.
PS:On second thought that is a nice rack for anywhere. TC
G-Man:
Thanks for adding that one Gary - I got a look at that nice rifle at the show but wish I had much more time. Wallace was patient enough to stay at the table to the very end of the day on Friday and I got to spend my last half hour or so looking over just a few of the great pieces that you all had on display. I think I was about the last one out that night.
I like the finish on the iron - as I recall the mounts on that fine iron mounted stepped wrist gun at MESDA had a similar look - almost black.
I'm not very familiar with blueing techniques, but it seems like it has held up well - can you describe the process a bit more? Was it a traditional formula that you mixed up in the shop and applied cold? Or was heat used? Is there anything on the market that would be similar?
Thanks
Guy
flintriflesmith:
Guy,
I need to start by saying that I have no proof that rust bluing was used on mounts in America. It was used on English double barrels in the 18th century because their soft solder joints and ribs would not stand the heat of the various types of heat blue. I have seen European guns with what appear to be rust blued mounts and barrels.
We did a number of rust blued rifle barrels in the shop at CW while we were still trying to redevelop the charcoal bluing. We felt it was better than browning on an early rifle. My York Co. PA style rifle in Three Centuries has a rust blued barrel.
The rust blue is really simple because it is just like browning with one addition -- the part is boiled in water for a few minutes before each carding. As with browning, the smoothness of the finish depends on how well it is carded. There mounts were carded after fairly short rusting cycles and so vigorously that there was no detectable "drag" on the surface. This produces a hard, dense, smooth rust and the final application of hot wax makes it very resistant to additional rust.
Gary
rich pierce:
That is some mighty fine work that stands the test of time.
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