oil for a original ohio rifle

[Andy A]

I have a walnut stocked ohio rifle-original, that needs some TLC and I need some oil for the stock. Is there something that goes faster than straight boiled linseed?? Somebody recommeded danish oil mixed with linseed? Waht do you think??

Andy A

[Dave K]

Each to his own, but off all the original guns I have seem none appeared to use an oil like boiled linseed oil. Now, I know many use it and many seem to like it. But again the original  Ohio guns I have owned, had all either been refinished in their past or did not use that as a finish. The finish is too hard to be BLO on my guns. BLO, IMHO just doesn't get dry and hard and IMHO will actually break down the wood of the stock and make the wood soft and unstable in time.

[The other DWS]

BLO is a cheap, but labor intensive finish that was suitable for military use where really cheap labor could maintain it by adding more coast as needed--and military stocks were not designed to last forever in any case.  Originals probably used a combination of varnishes, shellacs, and waxes with each maker having his own secret blend.  owners with high end guns probably used some sort of wax/oil blend just like they'd use on fine their furniture.  Pioneer owners of "working guns" probably just rubbed them down as needed with whatever oil, fat, or wax was handy.
In the museum we gave metal a periodic wiping with a commercial product called CorrosionX and wood with basic Johnson's paste wax.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Two products I like:

Kramer's Best Antique Improver... austensibly an old formula made with a turpentine base and all natural ingredients is wonderful for cleaning and restoring antique wood.
http://www.kramerize.com/

Renaissance Wax Developed by museum currators  ... a microcrystalline wax that protects wood and metal
http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

I use the Kramer's to clean and restore the wood and after a few days put a good coat of Renaissance wax on.  I use it on my antique furniture and contemporory guns before and after having them out in the weather to hunt or shoot.

BTW, Kramer's is wonderful on stained/varnished Kitchen cabinets once every year.

[FALout]

If you really have an original rifle, you would be better off not putting anything on it unless you don't care about collector value.

[saltboiler]

I have quite a few old originals and I use Briwax on them.  It was recommended by a museum curator.

[Dave K]

I think that is a good idea. Even originals need maintence to retain their value. It just takes proper care.

[Dphariss]

I have a walnut stocked ohio rifle-original, that needs some TLC and I need some oil for the stock. Is there something that goes faster than straight boiled linseed?? Somebody recommeded danish oil mixed with linseed? Waht do you think??

Andy A

Don't bother with lumber yard boiled linseed oil or "stand oil" etc. BLO as it comes from the store is NOT GUNSTOCK FINISH. Its not even heated when the driers are added.
Buy something like Chambers oil finish.
The rifle was probably finished with a linseed oil varnish originally.
There were essentially two types of varnish in the old days.
Spirit varnish and oil varnishes. If it dried with a shine it was varnish. Old varnish finished gunstocks that still have finish will show just how flexible and elastic these finishes were. The finish generally will not break even if dented unless the dent is created by a sharp object that cuts the finish. Many times the finish conforms to the dent. But few people take the time to REALLY look. The varnishes used on musical instruments were harder but was also much more expensive and tended to be too hard for rough service.
Almost all American gunstocks were finished with a LINSEED OIL BASED VARNISH or BLO until the arrival of synthetics.
They boiled in resins to make a varnish.
I would use home cooked Linseed oil and Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III (a soft oil varnish) mixed about 50-50. But you are probably better served with something like Chambers oil mixed with the Grumbachers mentioned above. It will produce a soft varnish that is very weather resistant. Will tolerate months of snow and rain with no change. Dries fast etc. The Grumbachers is  available where oil painting supplies are sold.   
The only other traditional finish is something like real shellac or another spirit finish.
The alternative is something like Permalyn which is just a modern plastic finish.

Most rot on gunstocks is the result of too much rust preventative oil in most cases. It really WILL soften wood and many people used to use petroleum oil on the wood and over oil metal parts so the wood gets wood soaked.
A great many British firearms have been oiled with linseed at least once a year for long periods without rotting the stocks but they did not buy the stock finish oil from Home Depot.

Dan

[Jerry V Lape]

Dan, am I correct that if I were to make the 50/50 mix of Chambers oil and Grumbacher's medium III that would not require heating the mixture? 

[Dphariss]

Dan, am I correct that if I were to make the 50/50 mix of Chambers oil and Grumbacher's medium III that would not require heating the mixture? 

Mixes fine cold.
BUT you gotta have the right oil to mix with it. I have not used any of Chambers oil but from what I have read it should work fine.
I am not sure mixing it with lumberyard "boiled" oil right from the can will work well.

Dan