Proper way to inlet a lock.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I have been looking at a number of contemporary guns and I have a question.  When you have a lock such as the Siler Lock or Chamber's Golden Age lock in which the lock has angled sides onthe lock plate. (I do not know the proper term if there is one) In Peter Alexander's book he talks about the draft on the sides of the plate and how to inlet to the draft.
Some makers I have seen bury the lock until the outside face of the lock plate is flush withthe wood, others I have seen inlet the lock until he sides of the wood meet where the angle begins.  (which I must admit looks better) My question is, which way should it be done??

Coryjoe

[rich pierce]

On a lock with a bevel such as Germanic locks (Siler etc) it should be inlet so the whole bevel is above the lock panels- and maybe a little extra.  It depends on how you file the draft.  No "lock in a hole" look, please.

[flehto]

The bevel is approx. a 45 degree angle and you inlet so the bottom of the  bevel is even or slightly above the wood. Draft is approx. a 1-3 degree angle on the sides that are inletted....the inlet will be neater w/ draft and the lock is easier to pull out. good luck.....Fred

[Roger Fisher]

Sure let her stand proud,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Not buried.

[The other DWS]

right now, my lock and sideplate are "buried" with the face surfaces of the pre-carve.  it makes it easier to secure the gun in the woodworkers vise with them in place and keeps me from dinging the edges.  However once I get the mechanical work done and the bulk of the stock shaped down to close to finish contours I'll scrape and file the lock/sideplate surrounds down to the proper depth.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I inlet a lock plate, i keep going in until the bolster that is the pan rests perfectly flat against the barrel.  This will usually take the plate below the outside dimension of the wood.  Once the lock nails are drilled and tapped, and the lock can be firmly drawn in, I use a chisel to pare away the wood down to the bevel.  You will see that this is more wood to remove in some places than in others.  For example, the wood is FLUSH with the plate just behind the fence, and flush again from the plate's tail molding to it's tip.  Everywhere else, the plate stands well above the stock's surface according to the height of the bevel.

It is not a flat plane, though I guess it could be and may have been on some original rifles.  In the wood behind the fence that is flush with the plate, one needs to cut an interesting shaped notch for the heel of the cock to strike the plate.  But that's another topic.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Well this all makes sense.  All I knew was it did not look right buried.  Good to know, thanks.

Coryjoe

[Acer Saccharum]

I like to bring the wood down to the little rim around the lock. This one is a roundface, with a little flat rim all the way around. The lock is hardly set in 1/16".



A Chambers Germanic

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Clean and crisp Tom...excellent work!

[Acer Saccharum]

Some locks the hammer stop will chew through the wood if you don't notch the inlet at the top of the stock, just behind the fence. On this gun, I planed a bevel from the center of the cock pivot angling in toward the barrel, avoiding the 'notch' look. On some guns it's appropriate, and others not.

[rdillon]

I'm with Acer and Taylor on this one.  This lock has a lip on it also and as Acer said maybe it is a 1/16" deep in the mortice.



I can take a close-up tonight if you want one.

[Acer Saccharum]

Here is one from the Metropolitan Museum, a beveled German lock with a tiny reveal all the way around. The wood has shrunken and the lock pops out a bit so you can see how little wood supports the lock. Note the brand new frizzen surface, maybe one or two strikes on it, telling evidence that this was a valued showpiece.

[Pete G.]

On some guns it's appropriate, and others not.

OK, I'll bite. On which guns would it be appropriate and which not?

[Cory Joe Stewart]

The images are a lot of help.  Thanks.  By inletting to deep you completely loose the effect of the design on the bevel.

Coryjoe

[Dave B]

Pete G,
I think Tom was referring to the way you handle the notch in the molding around the area where the cock shoulder boss hits the lock plate. Some rifles have a distinctive notch in the lock panel where this occurs. It is variable to who did this consistently. I have seen the same school rifles with one with a distinct notch and others not so much. Lancaster school is one that comes to mind.

[Acer Saccharum]

In general, I have seen the notch on American guns, and the bevel on German guns. Some originals are so worn, however, that it is difficult to determine whether there was a notch or a bevel. My experience of viewing originals is not as deep as others.

[rich pierce]

The narrower the lock molding and the more you slope the wood down to the lock molding, the less need for a notch.  I don't like to have a notch inless nothing else will work, but have done it.  I usually use Acer's solution, to taper the wood toward the fence.

[Stophel]

Depends on the lock!  If the cock needs a notch, notch it, if it doesn't, don't!

I agree with Rich, if the moulding is done right USUALLY you don't need much, if any notching.

[Ted Kramer]

Acer-

Excellent work shown in the pictures you posted.

Where did you get the round faced lock? Or is it one you re-shaped? I like the looks of it.

Ted K