Author Topic: Lock Question (Read 12342 times)

LURCHWV@BJS · « **on:** March 31, 2010, 08:57:39 PM »

Just got my first non-kit brand spankin new Lock. I held in my hand, studied it's lines, felt it's weight, I'm holding something tangeble. When I noticed something totally be wildering to me. Now remember I did say once that I've never hald a brand new lock before. The thing I didn't see, and thought I should have Was the lock bolt holes. Which leads me to my Question.

Do we have to drill and tap the holes for the lock bolts?

That just scares the $#*! out of me.

Thanx Rich

LRB · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2010, 09:01:08 PM »

If you aim to build a rifle, you're gunna have to get over that fear. There's a lot of other things to drill that are much more demanding.

ehoff · « **Reply #2 on:** March 31, 2010, 10:06:36 PM »

Yup, your going to have to drill and tap the holes, not only in the lock but the trigger plate also. Like any other job your going to need the right tools for the job.

The two most common materials for taps are carbon steel or HSS (high speed steel). Carbon steel taps are more brittle than HSS, but this is good if the tap breaks off flush with the hole the tap can be broken up with a sharp punch. With a HSS tap the only way to remove a broken one is with a tap extractor, EDM or a tap zapper.

You'll also need the correct size drill bits for the taps, 10-32 takes a No. 21 & 8-32 takes a No. 29.

Finally you need a tap handle and tapping fluid. Tapping take patience, give the tap a small turn the give it a small turn backwards to break the chips, keep it lubricated with tapping fluid. Work slowly and in no time you'll be through.

Also don't be afraid to practice if you haven't done much tapping.

northmn · « **Reply #3 on:** March 31, 2010, 10:51:09 PM »

Depending on design but usually you have to drill through the Breechplug also. Comments were already made but I usually drill the tap hole (Ido not tap the plate yet) in the lockplate on a drill press to get it straight, put it back in the mortise and then drill through the tap hole with the barrel in the stock and screwed or clamped down. When I hit the breech plug (its the part the wrench fits o when you screw it in. I remove the barrel and finish drilling the hole through the wood. You can then go back and drill a clearance hole. The breechplug should be marked so that you can drill a generous clearance hole through it (it does not and should not be a tight fit) Drilling the other hole under the barrel takes very careful measurement, but can be done pretty much the same.

DP

rich pierce · « **Reply #4 on:** April 01, 2010, 01:15:10 AM »

Friend, you would do well to get some books on building longrifles and study them closely till the procedures are all clear and the order, etc is plain, and check and double check before doing the next thing each time. There's a lot to learn and it's easy to get out of sequence, etc, or to find you don't have the tools for the next step, etc. I'd recommend Dixon's book; others may recommend Alexander's The Gunsmith of Greenville County, which may be out of print. There are also DVDs out there that cover the basics but I am a book guy. Mike Brooks has an excellent tutorial on another site. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/tutorials/brooks/Brooks1.html

We love to help and answer questions but without being there and seeing what you're doing, it's likely we won't fully understand where you are, and neglect to mention this or that. I know it's tough for guys to read the manual but sometimes it helps.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #5 on:** April 01, 2010, 01:53:37 AM »

I whole heartetly agree with getting a book or two before you venture much farther. Here's one tip though. I always tap the screw holes through the holes drilled for the bolts with the lock in place. If you tap the screw holes with the lock off the stock you will most certainly have difficulty drilling screw holes that line up with the tapped holes in the lockplate. Been there. Hope that made sense.

wvmtnman · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2010, 04:43:00 AM »

Get Dixon's book. Start at the beginning and read. If you have a kit rifle, hold it, look at it, take it apart and put it back together. Once you finish the book, use it as a guideline in building your first rifle. Open it up and build the rifle as you go through the chapters. Don't worry about messing it up. You will. That's why many builders continue to build. They want to get better.
   If you make a mistake, chances are you will be able to fix it. However, it may take a little time and money.
   On a side note, drilling and taping a lock plate looks intimidating but is actually easy.
   If you have a basic understanding of basic tools, you should do fine.
   PM sent.
   Brian

Curtis · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2010, 04:03:22 PM »

Steve Zihn also has an very good tutorial out there on the Traditional Muzzleloading Association site:

http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.com/forum/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=6214

LURCHWV@BJS · « **Reply #8 on:** April 01, 2010, 05:11:47 PM »

Guy's
I've been trying to get ahold of Dixon's to get Chuck's Book. And I'm Waiting on a call from DGW to get Peter's book. As much as I want to do something, I won't until I have book in hand. Patience and I haven't always been friends. But I've been asking advice from ya'll and EVERYONE say's the same thing. I would be a fool not to listen, and your advice would be word spoken in vain. Hard as it is I am not continuing until I have BOOK IN HAND.

Thanx Rich

Stophel · « **Reply #9 on:** April 01, 2010, 05:15:30 PM »

Wait 'till you get to the breech tang screw.

Roger Fisher · « **Reply #10 on:** April 01, 2010, 05:26:51 PM »

Quote from: Stophel on April 01, 2010, 05:15:30 PM

Wait 'till you get to the breech tang screw.

Now, now Stoph be nice

ken · « **Reply #11 on:** April 01, 2010, 06:40:42 PM »

I have built a number of rifles and each time I seem to go to Dixons for that part of the build. Take your time! Use a pencil and measure alot . Good to have side plate on hand to see where you are going. You will do fine

Stophel · « **Reply #12 on:** April 01, 2010, 09:24:22 PM »

Took me a while to figure out that the best way to do the breech tang screw is to drill halfway through from top and bottom with an undersize bit and meet in the middle, then true it up. Better than having the hole come out about an eighth of an inch off center at the triggerplate...

bluenoser · « **Reply #13 on:** April 01, 2010, 09:27:32 PM »

Rich,

I have all three books and they are well worth the wait. I favor Bouchelle's book, but that's just me.

While you are waiting for the books, make use of the time by reading the many tutorials on this and other sites. Don't forget to look to builder's sites for tutorials. I am constantly watching for references to tutorials in the threads. When I see one, I do a quick preview and then bookmark it under "Tutorials" in my browser. I also have folders for builder's websites, Sources for......, Online Organizations, etc. When I visit a site, I check their "Links" for more leads.

There is a wealth of information available for the investment of a little time.

Keep at it. You'll do fine
Laurie

rich pierce · « **Reply #14 on:** April 01, 2010, 09:28:19 PM »

I use a gizmo made by our own David Rase, I believe, for drilling such holes that need to come out in the right place. Modified C clamp, works great.

Pete G. · « **Reply #15 on:** April 02, 2010, 02:25:35 AM »

I use something similar to that on "Hoot Al's" web site for all through holes. After drilling, tap from the same direction as the screw will be coming from. That way the threads will be aligned with the screw

LURCHWV@BJS · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2010, 05:56:06 AM »

Dixon's book ordered. Having trouble with DGW. They seem to either be illiterate or just don't understand english. Maybe I should send instructions in 7 different languages. Anyway, Mr Pierce spoke of a modified C-clamp (lights went off). Oh sorry it took so lng to respond work became VERY hectic lately. My skills were highlytaken advantage of. I now know & understand the answer to a question I asked about a year ago about Flintlocks. I had an old flintlock with a Flimsy weak lock that really didn't spark very well. Therefore I formed an opinion regarding all flintlocks based on my experiences. Someone told me to be more open minded about FL's and try one with a quality lock. So I planned my first build as a FL. When I got my lock (L&R Classic) I understood the term " Quality Lock" the darn thing wieghs three times more than the Lock on that old Jukar. Can't wait to fire this one.

On Vacation and luvin it Rich

G-Man · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2010, 04:54:06 PM »

Yes - the Dixon book, or even more basic - start with Jim Johnson's "Building the Kentucky Rifle." This has the most stripped down fundamental steps and clearest basic diagrams by Tom White, and it still sells for around 8 or 10 bucks I think. There is nothing in this book except the basics, but they are a really good way to see the basic order of assembly and how everything fits together.

Guy

Darkhorse · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2010, 07:26:17 PM »

http://www.airbum.com/NeatShtpix/HainesPart1.html

Hope that link works for you. It's a pictorial about building a Lancaster from a Wayne Dunlap kit. It's only about 1/2 complete but what's there is good.

Personally, I recommend to anyone building a rifle for the first time that along with the books they also get a video about building from a kit. There's just nothing like seeing it done on the screen so you can rewind it a dozen times. Mr. Jim Chambers sells a couple of good ones.

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #19 on:** April 06, 2010, 10:34:05 PM »

Rich: Here are some online tutorials from folks you may recognize...great stuff...

http://www.americanlongrifles.org/WorkShop_frame.htm

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/tutorials/brooks/Brooks1.html

J.D. · « **Reply #20 on:** April 07, 2010, 01:51:27 AM »

Here's another good tutorial.

scroll down to Wyosmith Building Tutorial

http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.org/forum/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=115&sid=410c09027d06c4e6d26454cfd5e5aec5

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Author Topic: Lock Question (Read 12342 times)

LURCHWV@BJS

northmn

LURCHWV@BJS

ken

LURCHWV@BJS

J.D.