Bag Critique Please...

[RoaringBull]

So here are a few of my bags.

I made this bag for a silent auction held to benefit our local FCF Chapter.  The fire with five logs is the symbol of the FCF.  I stitched the fire logo on the front of the bag and covered the mess on the back with another piece of leather when I did the edging.  It was a double bag with a wide full gusset in the back and a small bottom gusset on the front.

I forgot to take pictures of it before we left so here are a few not-very-good ones...




A trio of bags…the one with the cross I even kept for myself.










A few bags and a flint wallet I recently completed.  The top is a belt bag for my brother-in-law who does SCA reenacting.  Second has a flap that was just left raw from the hide I took it from.  I thought it looked kinda cool like that. 
















A few bags and a flint wallet I recently completed.  The top is a belt bag for my brother-in-law who does SCA reenacting.  Second has a flap that was just left raw from the hide I took it from.  I thought it looked kinda cool like that. 

[rich pierce]

I like the darker ones, am partial to that look.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

You certainly are prolific.

I like the buckskin coloured "D" bag.  There is a recurring theme that I'd like to comment on.  I'd like to see your stitching closer to the edge, and finely spaced as in that buckskin colored bag.  Have a look at the stitching on Mark Elliot's Virginia bag - fine and close to the edge.  You are going to find that your "D" rings for strap attachment will not stay level, but will rotate and be awkward.

[RoaringBull]

Thank you both for the comments!

I generally use a 7 stitch per inch wheel for the bags I am selling, but want to find at least an 8 stitch wheel or more...Is there a source for those available?  I have been unable to find them.

And I have moved away from the "D" rings for that very reason too...

[BrownBear]

Gomph and Osborne both make them.  You can sometimes find them used, too.  Here is a really nice looking used Osborne with 7, 8, 10, and 12 per inch wheels.

Vintage Tools is a great source, too.  I see they have got Osborne 8's for $24, too.  Watch your bank account cruising that place!

[rich pierce]

They all look well made and durable.  The leather looks sort of raw for some of them and might be improved in appearance by some dyeing and  oiling or waxing, etc.  Folks around here generally prefer styles and decorative motifs that are found on original flint period bags, so although the workmanship looks very good on some of the bags, some of the styles may appeal more to a different audience.

[Pete G.]

The D rings will stay put if you run a row of stitching across the strap just below the ring. Don't overdo it though because that row of holes weakens the strap.

[Artificer]

Roaring Bull,

I agree with Rich your items look sturdy and many of them look like someone sewed them up for him/her self - which is how many original pouches were made.  I also agree some of your designs are more for a different crowd.  

Another way to improve the "finished look" of your work is to make the stitches more uniform.  I wish to HEAVEN someone had told me about this book when I first started sewing up leather pouches and things back in the early 1970's.  (Oops, well after researching I find it wasn't written till 1977)  Some things I guessed into doing right, but this book opened my eyes so much it was amazing.  It could be the best $12.00 you have spent for quite a while.

THE ART OF HAND SEWING LEATHER BY AL STOHLMAN

http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=5799891

Al and Ann Stohlman also wrote books on making leather case items, etc.
If you are interested in the subject of any of their books, you will get MORE than your money's worth from them.  Since most of us can't haunt a real saddlemaker's or cordwainer's shop, these books are the next best thing.

Another thing you might want to do on some of the heavier leathers is to burnish the edges of the leather.  This can be done with a variety of tools and trust me you will wind up trying most as you continue.

The important thing is to keep trying to make your next piece look better than your last in every detail.  
  
Gus Fisher

[James Rogers]

The Stohlman is a keeper for sure.

I also would like to "push" my friend Eric Myall's DVD's on leatherworking. He is the "Williamsburg saddler".
The DVD's are well done, reasonably priced and very helpful.


His phone number is 757-564-9659

[Artificer]

The Stohlman is a keeper for sure.

I also would like to "push" my friend Eric Myall's DVD's on leatherworking. He is the "Williamsburg saddler".
The DVD's are well done, reasonably priced and very helpful.


His phone number is 757-564-9659

James,

I think you just gave me a good reason to actually pull some money out of my wallet.  Grin.

Gus Fisher

[James Rogers]

Gus,
I would bet you would even enjoy the phone conversation! He began his leather working career in England about 60 years ago when he began his apprenticeship at 15 years old. His harness standard is 12 stitches to the inch. Although Williamsburg closed down the harness shop, Eric is still doing some hand work for them.

 This was originally a VHS series that he has had converted to DVD. I had most of the VHS tapes but a few and he brought me the DVD's recently at the Williamsburg show.  Just watched one the other night and learned something yet again.

The series builds upon itself. There are important base steps explained in the earlier volumes.

Volume 1  Making a belt
Volume 2  making a bullet pouch
Volume 3  making a knife sheath
Volume 4  making a fire bucket
Volume 5  making a flint wallet
Volume 6  making a cartridge box
Volume 7  making a portmanteau
Volume 8  making a telescope case with hinged lid

[Artificer]

James,

The last time I was at Colonial Williamsburg the gun shop was only a skeleton of its former glory and now you inform me the saddlemaker's shop is closed.  Good grief that's sad.

I will definitely give Eric a call next week.  Do I imagine corectly it would be better to call during the day? 

Gus

[RoaringBull]

Here is a bag design that I copied from someone who copied his from an original.  The bag is flat sewn with a divider that acts as a welt.  The strap is adjustable via an antler button on the back and slots cut into the strap.  The flap is held closed by a small metal button. 

[Ben I. Voss]

RB, while your workmanship looks fine, you're not going to get that old time authentic look using chrome tanned leather. Find some "vegetable" tanned leather, also called oak tanned or bark tanned- it is what was used in the old days and can be wet formed and aged etc. Has an altogether different look than the leather you are using. Give it a try and you'll see the difference. Keep up the good work!!

[Top Jaw]

I concur with others that you have the aquired skills.  Perhaps look into using other types of leather and more traditional 18th -19th century designs, (esp. if your ever make a few to sell someday).

I would also add that getting a copy of T C Alberts book "Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch" would benefit you on styles and techniques.  I made my first one with out that book, but it has been a very helpful resource since, with a lot of color pictures.  Also, websites like Contemporary Makers Blog, have excellent examples of traditional styles done by todays makers.

Top Jaw 

[BlackleafHats]

James
I know Eric's niece from England. We've been conferring on the topic of leather mugs. I tried to get to see Eric one of the last times I was in Williamsburg, but he was not working any of the days that I was there. (sad fate for the saddle shop). Are his videos only available through him?

Sincerely
Morgan Shea 

The Stohlman is a keeper for sure.

I also would like to "push" my friend Eric Myall's DVD's on leatherworking. He is the "Williamsburg saddler".
The DVD's are well done, reasonably priced and very helpful.


His phone number is 757-564-9659

[James Rogers]

Morgan,

As far as I know, the DVD's are only available thru Eric.

I think he said he is still doing some side work for CW from home. Hand stitching some harness parts they cannot out source.