AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Tutorials => Gunmaking tools and techniques- metal shaping => Topic started by: Curtis on May 19, 2016, 07:15:32 PM
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The post below was originally part of Davebozell's "Show us your current project" thread. The moderators have split the many projects in the original thread out into individual threads so the members can more easily ask questions and the builders can more easily answer.
Starting on a Christian's Spring rifle inspired by RCA #43. I am enrolled in Jack Brooks Christian's Spring class in June @ the NMLRA Gunsmithing Seminar. Trying to get the basics out of the way before the class.
(https://i.ibb.co/Pmd6b6x/P4101275.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bWkKyK1)
Sawed the blank entirely with a rip saw and a frame saw:
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6Z1pp8/P4111282.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0jwVRRM)
Inletting barrel. I thought about having David Rase do it but I hear he is kinda hard on breech plugs, lol. Sorry Dave, I couldn't resist..... ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/bbHQ9L6/P4221286.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bn4cMjf)
(https://i.ibb.co/LPC0121/P4221287.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BPgfBSB)
Getting closer:
(https://i.ibb.co/VpxzLd6/P4281291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FqXyh9p)
(https://i.ibb.co/QPMCKnn/P5010818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1rTdmKK)
I am further along now but don't have the pics off the camera yet.
Curtis
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Made some progress on the rifle while I was in Bowling green at the gunsmithing seminar:
(https://i.ibb.co/LRFzmyr/P6081491.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gp6vyD9)
(https://i.ibb.co/tBDFdcf/P6081534.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0qrvwZN)
(https://i.ibb.co/gwhmDb3/P6061197.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rMNFZKm)
Curtis
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Good job so far.Thanks for posting the pictures.Cant wait to see more.
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Thanks for taking time to post and share build pics Curtis, looking forward to more !
John
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Good choice in a build. Looking forward to more.
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I love threads like this ;D
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curtis; whats the size of the gouge pictured? ..............yip
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Curtis,
Very inspiring project. It is taking shape and looks outstanding. Can't wait to see more of your progress.
David
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Looks like some nice clean efficient work.
Well done Curtis.
Jeff
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Lookin mighty nice Curtis!
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Thanks so much for the encouraging comments, guys! It is truly a fun and interesting project, and I admire the original rifle considerably. It may be a while before I get to resume working on it, but will continue posting photos as I progress with it. Jack is a great teacher and I hope I can channel some of what I have learned from the class into this rifle.
Yip, there are two different gouges pictured. The first gouge pictured is a 1" #11 sweep Henry Taylor English, the one in the rest of the photos is a #9-20 Sweep Pfeil Swiss. I have to say I prefer the Pfeil gouges over any others I own, they very cleanly eat wood like beasts if you keep them sharp. I somehow managed to acquire two of the 9-20 Pfeil gouges, and I think one should last me a lifetime. If you are interested in having one, send me a pm and I would offer it to you at a discount.
Curtis
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Thanx for sharing!!!
Looking forward to seeing the progress...
I dig through lots of posts like this...being a newbie to the gun building world it's very interesting to see a slab of wood and pieces of metal turn into a gun....
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Curtis; thanks for your reply and for your offer on the gouge, i'm interested please email me thanks...........yip
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I really like the style and approach to your work. It is great to see the process.
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Great posting! I have only made three stocks from a plank so every bit of information is a great help, thanks.
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This is living history - stocking a copy of this grand old rifle in the same way and with the same tools that Andreas Albrecht (attributed) used to stock the original many years ago. Following your progress is the next best thing to a time machine.
Be sure to take down your trombone, zither or violin and play a bit each day, like he did! ;D Bob
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Nice work but you really need a band saw. That was a ton of work. Well done. Bob
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Thanks for the comments again everyone!
Bob, thanks so much for posting here, I have thoroughly enjoyed your book "Moravian Gun making of the American Revolution". I will have to play the zither in my imagination however, as it has been decades since I have tried to make my own music and it would most likely be offensive even to my ears! ;D
Long Ears: Thanks for posting as well! While I appreciate the mechanical efficiency of a band-saw, just today I retired from a 26 year career in high technology an I must say I find doing things the old ways a source of relaxation and a chance to distance myself from the noises and bustle of modern life. Don't get me wrong, I really love my flush toilets and comfortable living space! However I do "feel" a project coming together much more intimately while using hand tools. Not to mention the lack of noise! I am not an anti technology kinda guy, but I appreciate the lack of noise and fast cuts when I'm feeling artistic. Just a personal thing, no offense to anyone.
Curtis
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Curtis,
Congrats on the retirement! Must have been a good job, you are way too young to retire!
19 more years for me...
Nice to see the pictures of your rifle. Last time I saw it, it was looking great.
I have not touched mine since returning from class. Too much work to do on my Isaac Haines. I'd rather bugger up the Haines than the my RCA #43!
Cheers, Norm
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Curtis
Congrats on your retirement I'm close but scared to pull the trigger to many hobbies and five grandkids to teach all the wrong things,maybe I will get to teach them to shoot blackpowder of course
If you ever get across the bridge stop by and say hello
Paul
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Curtis,
I'm looking for a better way to start the shaping of my stocks, and your pictures make it look simple. In one of your pictures the bevel on the lock panel to the breechplug tang seems to be the same angle all the way back to the buttplate. Flows from the lock to the butt plate. Do you create this with rasps or plane? Maybe your spokeshave? The way you perform these beginning stages of shaping seems to make final shaping much easier than anything I do. I'm eager to see more. Thanks,
Greg
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Hello Greg,
Great observation! You can't tell very well from the pictures, but the bevel is not the same angle, but on a "plane" that varies in pitch according to the height and width of the location on the stock. The profile and the widths are all established before making the "planes". It's part of a method for achieving good stock architecture that Jack Brooks teaches... I highly recommend taking one of his classes!
I used draw knives, spoke-shaves, planes and rasps in shaping the stock, primarily a plane when it worked well. It depends on the grain, and if I can get a plane in to cut due to the changing angles on the stock and the size of my planes, hopefully that makes sense to you. I often use a rasp in the tight spots, or when the wood wants to get chippy.
Curtis
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Norm & Paul,
All I can say is - so far I highly recommend retirement! And Norm- ugh, 19 years... that will seriously get in the way of your gun building time! And BTW, I enjoyed having you as a classmate @ Bowling Green. Hope you can make it next year.
Curtis
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Great project and it looks like you are going to do a fine job of it.
I retired just a little over two years ago and I am now building full time. It is something I looked forward to for many years and I can truely say I am having a blast. I get to get up in the morning drink a little coffee enjoy a nice breakfast and then drive down my little hill to my shop and spend the day working on a rifle. It's a tuff job but somebody has to do it. ;D
Good luck with your retirement and your build.
Jim
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Bama,
Thanks for the positive feedback. I plan to follow your retirement example to the "T"! Only difference is I just have to walk 35 yards across the driveway to get to the shop. Almost like heaven on earth....
Curtis
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Bama,
Thanks for the positive feedback. I plan to follow your retirement example to the "T"! Only difference is I just have to walk 35 yards across the driveway to get to the shop. Almost like heaven on earth....
Curtis
Your project is looking good, can't wait to see the progress. Shaping the stock from a blank slab of wood and finding a rifle in it is my favorite part of the build.
Nothing wrong with retirement. Like so many of us, it is really a change in careers in lieu of retirement. I am into my second year of retirement and am just now getting a handle on how to balance work in the shop with "honey do's" :D I love the 10 yard walk to get to my own little piece of heaven on earth, but what I really like is seeing how many days in a row I can go without leaving my property. Definitely don't miss the driving back and forth to work rat race.
David
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The score was rats 20, me 0. Paul Harvey was asked by Larry King if he was going to retire and
Mr.Harvey's answer was "NO,that is just practicing to be dead". That is also my assessment of
the idea.Sitting in front of the TV and watching the crack in the wall plaster get longer is not my
idea of fun.Having no schedule IS.
Bob Roller
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Curtis, Only two more weeks until my retirement. Looking forward to spending some quality time with #43 in my shop, just fifty yards away!
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How is the retirement going for you Homerifle? Missing that pesky job yet?
Well I have started back to work on the #43 inspired rifle. I got my thimbles rolled up and filed out, and just barely got started on inletting the entry thimble. The thimbles are graduated in diameter and length.
(https://i.ibb.co/NLrQ6Ws/P9262153.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCrbz98)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZHj4kj6/P9272158.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WDh8YhW)
(https://i.ibb.co/QdjQxYb/PA022165.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9t3gdy8)
(https://i.ibb.co/GWQz465/PA022166.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qNYT3Sr)
I was having my usual difficult time avoiding damage to the decorative ends of the pipes, and got an idea to wrap some small gauge wire tightly around the thimble in the innermost grooves, to act as a guard and help me to "file between the lines". I found the confidence gained probably at least tripled the speed in which I was able to file my flats. After the wire was removed there was a tiny nib left on some flats that was easily removed with a few strokes of a file. I don't recall seeing this idea posted anywhere so if someone has come up with something similar in the past please speak up and set me straight! The guide wire saved me a bunch of time and stress, your mileage may vary! Here are a couple of close-up pics:
(https://i.ibb.co/1JKLTcg/P9272154.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lh681KF)
(https://i.ibb.co/SdsQXt6/P9272156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7RYgJnS)
Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Pretty good idea on using the wire.
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Nice work on the pipes! I've never tried making them. I've always used the "blank" pipes from Track. What thickness of brass are you using? Do you have a form for the entry pipe to rough form the skirt?
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Lookin' good, Curtis! Nice idea with the wire as well!
Ed
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Nice work Curtis,
Those thimbles look great, and what a good idea about the wire.
Cheers,
Norm
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Nice work. Thanks for sharing.........Bob
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Curtis, I'm not missing my old job at all and I don't think I will.
Your thimbles are looking good. Nice idea using the wire.
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Curtis: You'll like it. I retired at the first of the year. I just build for me but it's nice to have more time for it and for going to the range. BTW Curtis, I grew up in Eldon.
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Thanks for the comments guys! I hope the wire idea works well for anyone who gives it a try. It's easy enough to remove if you find you're not like'n it!
Singlemalt, I have used forty thousanths brass for thimbles in the past, but I used fifty thousanths on these as per Jack Brooks recommendation, and am glad I did. It gives a little extra metal to work with and I think the heavier gauge brass looks better on this big bore early rifle. I have a form for the entry pipe, but didn't use it much on this one. I made a rounded face punch, and also used the ball end of a smaller ball peen hammer against a lead block to form the swell in the skirt. I annealed the brass several times during the process. I find it helps to pound a smooth recess into the lead block with a ball peen hammer before forging the swell in the skirt. Hope that makes sense to you. I didn't take any pics of those steps or I would post them for you.
SR James, I'm a transplant here in Eldon, moved here onto 40 acres near the Saline Valley wildlife area about 10 years ago. We really like it here!
Curtis
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RCA 43 is one of my favorite rifles, and I'm glad to see someone reproducing it. What are you going to do with the patchbox?The original is probably a replacement off an English trade rifle...
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RCA 43 is one of my favorite rifles, and I'm glad to see someone reproducing it. What are you going to do with the patchbox?The original is probably a replacement off an English trade rifle...
Elnathan,
There are conflicting opinions on the pacthbox, however regardless I feel this rifle warrants a nice wooden box lid.
: )
Curtis
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I have been fortunate to handle this rifle. Also fortunate to know the owner and Jack Brooks as friends - they have built several bench copies. We do not see any indication of any sort of prior box. So I don't think it is a replacement - but yes, it could have been added later.
The box and release are very simple, and very similar all the way to 1830 J J Henry "Old English pattern" or scroll guard trade rifles. These English trade rifles beginning ca 1780's were copies of American rifles, and some had a brass box. I've not seen an English example with an "early" brass box. Some a bit later had English renditions of the daisy box. The Natives became familiar with these stout "earlier" rifles, and the fur trade companies asked American makers to copy a 50 year old style! Full circle for the rifles - not sure about this very simple approach to a box?
I think Wallace and prior owners of #42 have similarly noted no indication of an earlier box - or at least no indication of a wood box lid. We are used to seeing wood boxes on early rifles - but these very simple solutions could have been early, simple designs? We also like to think of patchboxes as a new idea here, but there are side opening, raised lid brass boxes on German rifles from ca 1750. A comprehensive study of patchboxes in Europe, Great Britain and here would be welcome.
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Many thanks for your comments concerning the patchbox, Bob! You are a treasure trove of information!
I have been out of town for a few days, but am back home and got to spend some time in the shop the past couple of days. I finished in-letting my ramrod thimbles, manufactured a side plate and got it on the rifle. Here are a few photos....
The side plate sketched on the side panel:
(https://i.ibb.co/n0zQNpn/PA072180.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3sBS9KM)
After getting close to what I wanted, I made a tracing using transparent film:
(https://i.ibb.co/cw2sMLB/PA072178.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DYwjspJ)
I cut out the tracing, taped it to some 1/8" brass stock, and traced around the cutout onto the brass:
(https://i.ibb.co/qxbBSW8/PA092181.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4JBWqYL)
I then sawed it out using a hacksaw and a jeweler's saw:
(https://i.ibb.co/VN50bg9/PA092184.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z5DWCXx)
Then started the cleanup with a file. I just know there is a sideplate hiding in there just waiting to get come out!
(https://i.ibb.co/YcbWxZy/PA092185.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K2mGJwL)
Now starting some detail work on the plate. My sketched on lines are just used as reference to help me out, not hard and fast guide lines.
(https://i.ibb.co/hWDnMPD/PA132191.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NjZk38Z)
(https://i.ibb.co/x25RKsG/PA132193.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HKgkL2Y)
All done! Well, except for filing a slight bevel on the bottom edge and then inletting it on the rifle.
(https://i.ibb.co/phLw9CT/PA132198.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mNcTMQK)
(https://i.ibb.co/4gvXGhr/PA142200.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JF6G4DJ)
Scribing, stamping in the outline and inletting:
(https://i.ibb.co/r4ZbcRd/PA142202.jpg) (https://ibb.co/189sdtz)
(https://i.ibb.co/wz9JXN0/PA142203.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLH3vsg)
(https://i.ibb.co/GRDqGK6/PA142204.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pdTSNt7)
(https://i.ibb.co/Gt2FmjY/PA142206.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MGV9dLw)
Finally in place!
(https://i.ibb.co/MpJrGNN/PA142207.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J2SVykk)
Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Nicely done! I have couple side plates that I need to remake. I think I'll try your method.
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Nice believable plate and good filework, Curtis!
Gregg
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Thanks Dave, I hope the method works well for you. This was the first time I have done it like this and I will likely do it again.
And thanks for your comments too, Gregg!
Curtis
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Now it is time to atone for some past transgressions.... I used a "generic" Christian's Spring buttplate for this rifle that I picked up a couple of years ago. The comb of the plate had no wedding band and had three flats, and I believe #43 has five flats on the finial. Also I had filed a wedding band on the plate before I saw pictures of #43, a practice I cannot recommend! I had filed the wedding band with an "outtie" or convex band, #43 has an "innie" or concave band. So I modified it to be a concave band. I can't say if it looks any better or not, but at least it squelched that inner voice that kept saying in my head "everything else on the rifle follows the 'innie' theme, so the buttplate finial should as well!" I have a little cleanup of casting pits yet to do, however I will hold off until later as I know I am likely to accumulate a few other dings in the building process.
Here are the before and after photos, starting with my 5 sketched on flats:
(https://i.ibb.co/r6JWgWD/PA152208.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fp7cbcj)
Making the wedding band convex:
(https://i.ibb.co/pbKJwsx/PA152210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xXgJLcD)
Finished!
(https://i.ibb.co/NVNZqd8/PA152211.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X25SPrh)
(https://i.ibb.co/TbGQW9M/PA152213.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2srzZG3)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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coming together real nice.
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Beautiful work Curtis, and lots of great ideas.
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Curtis;
Your post ought to make a nice entry for the tutorial section. Looking good, I like that trick with the wire on the thimbles, nice work on the butt plate return and flats also.
I retired five years ago and believe me I haven't looked back and don't miss a thing about commercial art and meeting deadlines.
dave
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Curtis are you going to bring your rifle to Bowling Green this year I'd love to see it . Looks really good and all your efforts making your on parts are great. Hank
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Thanks guys! Hank, always good to hear from you. If I still have the rifle in my possession next spring I will certainly bring it with me to Bowling Green. At the rate I go it may not even be finished by then!
Now I am going to spend some time refining the stock shape. First I will shape the nose area closer to it's final shape. I sketched on the cut lines, then cut it down with my new, $1 #49 Nicholson rasp. It's not nice to brag, but sometimes you gotta boast. Earlier this week I picked up two nearly pristine #49 rasps at an antique shop for a buck apiece! Here are a couple of pics:
(https://i.ibb.co/6Dxr93F/PA162214.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p48bVtd)
(https://i.ibb.co/dWCQXb7/PA162217.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yfv8KhV)
Guidelines are great but sooner or later you have to just use your eyeballs to refine a shape. Using a raking light source has been mentioned on this forum many a times, but it cannot be overstated. If you move the light source the imperfections will show in the shadows, allowing you to rectify the situation.
(https://i.ibb.co/XpG8mb3/PA162218.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tc1Xy4x)
(https://i.ibb.co/3cGpP83/PA162219.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bXqsGy0)
My lock panels were previously just roughed in, now that the sideplate is installed I can refine them a bit. I use a rasp for at least 90% of the lock panel shaping, then clean up with a half round file and scrapers. To quote Bob Lienemann from an article he wrote for the American Tradition, ".... Lock panels are close around the lock, and there is no extra wood anywhere."
(https://i.ibb.co/Y7ZCqr8/PA162224.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vxYFKtm)
(https://i.ibb.co/WzTzWRD/PA162225.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c8m8csb)
(https://i.ibb.co/tYrSpsS/PA162226.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zPv1VR1)
(https://i.ibb.co/X8ML7sD/PA162227.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9tSgbTh)
(https://i.ibb.co/rx1syPL/PA162228.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y6bSsTM)
(https://i.ibb.co/XX6SH7j/PA162231.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MnKMdcZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/TbH76hY/PA162236.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rcZzYyF)
This is as far as I will go on the front of the panels for now. Before I can finish shaping the bottom of the panels I need to install my trigger and at least locate the trigger guard. Naturally, before I install the trigger I will have to make both it and a trigger plate.
Here I am cutting out a trigger blank and then cold forging the trigger shoe. There is an excellent tutorial for forging triggers by Eric von Aschwege in the tutorial section for those who have never made one.
(https://i.ibb.co/3CdD1Hx/PA162237.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KrhM6Ht)
(https://i.ibb.co/rFd53Js/PA162240.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7jkrQF4)
(https://i.ibb.co/8zmGDT8/PA162241.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1s0Bfh2)
Now to start cutting it to shape a bit, here is my sketch up:
(https://i.ibb.co/7Sh0qfF/PA162245.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x2ZrNkQ)
That's it for now, the dinner bell rang and I ran out of time. I should be back in the shop later this week and will continue to persevere.....
Curtis
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Curtis: I'm enjoying this thread too. And if it is still available, I will be happy to have your extra Pfiel chisel (gouge). Contact me at dtaylorsapergia@gmail.com please for confirmation.
Taylor
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Thanks Taylor! I sent you an email.....
Curtis
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I should be back in the shop later this week and will continue to persevere.....
Been watching Josie Wales again, eh. :D
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Lol you caught me TOF. However I shall continue to endeavor to persevere...... 8)
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Hey I'm enjoying this too.
Hope I remember the wire trick on my next project.
Keep it up Curtis.
Jeff
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Thanks Jeff, hope the wire helps you some!
Now it is time to make the trigger look a bit more like a trigger! First it gets a little hacksaw treatment:
(https://i.ibb.co/hLq8sML/PA192247.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sbB3jPb)
Then after cleaning it up some with a file I heat and bend the shoe:
(https://i.ibb.co/SRvy5jM/PA192251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pJXwb7M)
Next I need to cut the shoe to length. I don't have any scale dimensions for the trigger, so I decided to use the proportion method of determining the length. In the photo the shoe looks like it is about the same height of the lock plate just behind the cock. I use my dividers to determine this, then use my lock to guesstimate my trigger shoe size. I mark it, cut it and file it up a bit.
(https://i.ibb.co/hKSvbr4/PA192252.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SKzpbHM)
(https://i.ibb.co/GQQ1JNG/PA192254.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMMnTdJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/hmHBczC/PA192255.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kS04JCM)
(https://i.ibb.co/3BT6RdW/PA192256.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m6RZNTt)
(https://i.ibb.co/7gJ7wM5/PA192258.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Q8Fs2SR)
(https://i.ibb.co/JtPkRkG/PA192259.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MSLNDNt)
Next a little filing on the trigger body to shape it up:
(https://i.ibb.co/3MrVwv5/PA192261.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9V8BJhm)
Looks like it might work. I will continue to refine the shape of the trigger as I progress:
(https://i.ibb.co/dGvdfC3/PA192263.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSPhW0d)
Now it's time to start work on the trigger plate. I cut a piece of scrap plate and sketched it out, then sawed it out with a hack saw.
(https://i.ibb.co/w63QFKL/PA192265.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j4BwPL5)
I bend the front of the plate double where the tang screw will thread into it, then braze it together using some brass filings and borax for flux. Silver solder or even soft solder would work as well, I figured the old smiths would have probably brazed it.
(https://i.ibb.co/8BKv6GN/PA192266.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0gdz46)
(https://i.ibb.co/9GbX2n4/PA192268.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cx65tJ8)
(https://i.ibb.co/x65zsxx/PA192270.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sq3sP88)
(https://i.ibb.co/FgqzKF7/PA192277.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PwzgNdC)
Almost immediately I decided it was longer and wider than I wanted it to be so I adjusted the size, then filed a slight taper on the edges for inletting, and a reverse taper on the finial which will be held in place by the stock:
(https://i.ibb.co/G0vqYMw/PA202282.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mGC3Zys)
(https://i.ibb.co/zsFP4XT/PA202284.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2qSckv1)
I use a mortising chisel made from a small warding file to start the trigger mortise. Be careful not to get it to wide!
(https://i.ibb.co/NmkBMdQ/PA202287.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hZnzSJh)
Just about there! I mark up the trigger and refine the shape a little more.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDgMYjv/PA212294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rp46NJs)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYTdQ99/PA212293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GnQNC00)
Now I need to cut a slot for the trigger in the plate. I drilled a hole and cut it out with a Jeweler's saw, then filed the slot to size. I was going to drill a series of holes but broke a bit off in the plate first off and decided just to saw it. After I had broken the drill already, I remembered the easy way to cut a slot for the trigger. Bend the plate almost double at the halfway mark of the slot, cut your slot with a hacksaw, then bend the plate back flat. I should reference my notes more often! ::)
(https://i.ibb.co/9gLtfbF/PA212302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LRW5qxL)
I position the plate so the tang screw will hit it where it should, and the trigger slot lines up with the mortise:
(https://i.ibb.co/K6pR21S/PA212303.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2q1mvbH)
I then scribe around it, stamp it in on my scribe lines, and inlet the plate. I stop about an eight of an inch short of the end of the finial.
(https://i.ibb.co/nLDF8hv/PA212304.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pL3SrC8)
(https://i.ibb.co/9ctr3CB/PA212306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WGt2pY7)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q8mfVfZ/PA212307.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VHBtGtd)
(https://i.ibb.co/LdZ5CwS/PA212309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s9VHFSj)
The next step is not for the timid, and if you use this method proceed with caution! I heat the sharp end of the trigger plat and burn it into the wood. I did this a little at a time, it took me probably at least ten re-heats to get it where I wanted it. You don't want to over char the wood. What can I say, I like to play with fire.....
(https://i.ibb.co/hmycy8g/PA212310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CHz6z0w)
(https://i.ibb.co/dM4XdQT/PA212311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8sgGWjC)
(https://i.ibb.co/zFWkdWQ/PA212312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dtshZsj)
(https://i.ibb.co/8sGKck2/PA212314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B3vzNkj)
Now it's time to drill and tap for the tang bolt. I previously just had a wood screw in the tang.
(https://i.ibb.co/wpNc9c9/PA212317.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h2RYPYP)
(https://i.ibb.co/smr0C42/PA212318.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5MVNk36)
Now to figure where to drill my trigger pin. I like it high and in front of the sear. If you calculate correctly it will come out the other side under your sideplate. I put a mark where I wanted the pin on the trigger, drew a straight line down the trigger body for a reference for my dividers, put the trigger in the slot and marked the pin with my dividers. Now how's that for scientifically calculating it's location!
(https://i.ibb.co/t8mtR1C/PA212319.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZWLP9bT)
(https://i.ibb.co/VxTJyQV/PA212321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FXzmv06)
(https://i.ibb.co/3TXWhPs/PA212320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YN98jVW)
(https://i.ibb.co/d7LV2HR/PA212323.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0QF6Mzx)
And yes, it came out the other side under the side plate! Just how lucky can a guy be.... Now time to do a little cleanup on my trigger guard. This is a soft brass casting I got from Jack Brooks, the correct guard for #43. I will clean up the finials and do a lot of the remaining cleanup after it is attached to the rifle.
(https://i.ibb.co/31vwNB2/PA172246.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PxMRhwK)
Well that's it for a few days....
Curtis
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I'm really enjoying this! ;D
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Great stuff! So many great tips, that I think this thread needs a permanent home in the tutorials section!
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Great job on the trigger and plate, and some neat tricks! Bending the trigger plate to cut the slot is a great idea. I've broken a large number of jeweler's saw blades trying to do this through a drilled hole. Do you find your plate distorted or elongated after you bend it straight again?
Burning in the back tip of the plate is also a slick idea. Hard to do this even with very small chisels without breaking the wood!
Keep it up!
Gregg
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Thanks fellas. I'll try to include the mistakes and problems I encounter along the way, as they are a great learning tool as well.
The back end of the trigger plate was probably sharp enough I could have just drove it in, but I am always afraid of splitting out the wood.
Gregg, there is always a bit of distortion at the site of the bend, but if you cut your slot and straighten the plate before your final filing it will disappear. There is not enough lengthening to notice. In fact, when I reduced the size of this trigger plate I had it too high up in my vice, and over muscled it with my hacksaw and bent it almost 90 degrees in the middle. I pounded it back flat after saying a couple of choice words I can't type here, and you can't see it at all after filing it up to shape. Try it on some scrap and you will know what to expect when you do if for real.
Curtis
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Now it's time to start filing on my guard. I'm including the photo with my sad, makeshift filing jig so perhaps someone will take mercy on me and get me a fancy one for Christmas! ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/6Hrzwmv/PA222326.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9bc6gNw)
When the front and rear finials are filed to shape, I mark my "wedding bands" with a Sharpie.
(https://i.ibb.co/NTmN0VV/PA232327.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rdcpB77)
I like to start my file lines with a jewelers' saw, then begin with a small three cornered file and work my way up to larger three corner files. A more confident and skilled person would go straight for the larger file. I use files with one safe edge.
(https://i.ibb.co/sqwrF6p/PA232330.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JH7PzyW)
(https://i.ibb.co/vLx7syh/PA232331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1RfDsyM)
Next I start the concave "band" with a small round file. I used my thumbnail as a guide to help keep my line straight bus since I only have two hands couldn't capture that in the photo.
(https://i.ibb.co/nkf8Q9N/PA232332.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GPk3Cy4)
Then finish the last file line.
(https://i.ibb.co/nkxJjDj/PA232333.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mzfW4H4)
Once I locate the lug on my guard, I mark the slot and get to work with a mortising chisel. Before I acquired some mortising chisels, I used to drill a series of deep holes and dig it out and try to square it up with small chisels. The mortising chisel makes a nice, squared edge hole.
(https://i.ibb.co/PhbqFgL/PA252343.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k8rN5X7)
(https://i.ibb.co/N6C5fdm/PA262347.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MDSrKxG)
When I think I'm close, I check the depth.
(https://i.ibb.co/P1YpQxP/PA262349.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L9Pw5Sc)
(https://i.ibb.co/TbZQ60K/PA262351.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WPQrZzD)
I put a screw in the rear finial, clamp the front of the guard in place and then scribe a line around the finials. Some folks (such as Mike Brooks) are talented enough they draw a pencil line around an object and cut inside the line. I always end up cutting the pencil line itself.... with a scribed line you can feel your stabbing tool set into the scribe line and then stab down with it.
(https://i.ibb.co/f05NhMb/PA262358.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpWgLSM)
And here is the stabbed outline:
(https://i.ibb.co/g3kKNph/PA262359.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9NQ56LS)
Once my finials are inlet, I use my trusty dividers to locate my trigger pin. I want the pin hole to start in the lock mortise, travel through the guard lug, and end up under my sideplate on the back side.
(https://i.ibb.co/5T5SJKD/PA272360.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BLgQYnD)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q8xqFYd/PA272361.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fsdfb8V)
Made it under the sideplate just by the skin of my teeth.... Shoulda left my lug just a smidge longer!
(https://i.ibb.co/DR1TZns/PA272367.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZ0H3fb)
Now I put it all together and check for function. It works!
(https://i.ibb.co/vhv5dHX/PA272365.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KDzZsXK)
Now I can finish filing up the trigger guard, and I will start to refine my lock panels. One thing I like to avoid is having to notch my lock panel for the cock the clear it. With a little work and planning this can often be avoided. First I take some extra meat off the back of the cock, still leaving an ample shoulder where the cock will contact the lock plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/72mDDhV/PA272369.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jgXYYtG)
Then I will remove a bit of wood above the plate and behind the cock. The whole lock panel needs to come down a bit for proper depth of the lock plate, but most of that will come off later.
(https://i.ibb.co/vvRfC9C/PA272370.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3YQV5K5)
I now have clearance without a notch.
(https://i.ibb.co/K9b1Y9Q/PA272373.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YtPr6tK)
That's all for now!
Curtis
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Nice work and good photography, Curtis! I see on your previous post that you managed to drill the trigger pin hole through the lock mortise without the drill chuck tearing out your lock inlet...bravo!
You probably posted this earlier, but what kind of lock are your using?
Keep on keepin' on!
Gregg
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REALLY nice tutorial! Tks.
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Thanks Daryl! You flatter me! Glad to hear you are getting some good from this thread. ...I gotta say I'm not really trying to make a tutorial, just sharing some methods that work for me. Kind of a "one man's journey" kinda thing. I welcome any comments or better ideas anyone reading along may have, since the purpose of this board is information sharing after all! Also the order in which I am doing some things is not necessarily the preferred order, however since I did part of this build in a class, I concentrated on completing things first that would benefit from the input of the instructor while I had the chance.
Nice work and good photography, Curtis! I see on your previous post that you managed to drill the trigger pin hole through the lock mortise without the drill chuck tearing out your lock inlet...bravo!
You probably posted this earlier, but what kind of lock are your using?
Gregg
Gregg, I have to confess I cheated a bit on drilling the trigger pin hole and the guard lug hole, in an effort to preserve my precious lock inlet and lock panels. I used a hand crank drill with a smaller chuck for the trigger pin. For the last third of the guard lug pin hole I put the drill bit in a pin vise - after it became apparent that my lock panel was in grave danger of being wrecked by the drill chuck!
I don't believe I ever mentioned what lock I am using, so good catch. The lock is a Davis Colonial American one screw. This lock is patterned after some early locks and is versatile because if has enough metal on it that it's a great candidate for modification.
Here is a picture of the unmodified lock from an ad in a magazine:
(https://i.ibb.co/2cZnpxg/PA282374.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wpc02VM)
And some pics of the lock as I have modified it in an attempt to make it closer resemble the lock on RCA#43. I took some of the banana shape out of it, and changed the shape of the front and the tail considerably. I still need to work on the pan a bit, as well as the cock. If I get brave I will use a graver and sculpt the edge of the lock plate like the one on #43.
(https://i.ibb.co/JB1BgjH/PA282382.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2n9nH3d)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y3LsnFg/PA282379.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BtCMW5k)
(https://i.ibb.co/7VQg8ny/PA282380.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WF0DqkK)
Now moving on.....
This lock and others that share the same mainspring has some definite "loading" as it is placed on full cock, or you could say it gets noticeably harder to pull as you get closer to full cock. The lower leaf of the spring bends very straight as it compresses.
One of the guys in our class, Walt Framski, did some extensive experimenting with the spring, changing the shape of the lower leaf by filing it. (Randy W., you will have to forgive me if you deserve some credit here as well ) After he was done his lock cocked incredibly smoothly, and during cocking the lower leaf gently curved into full compression. I was so impressed that I did the enterprising thing, and took several photos of his modification so I could replicate it when I got home. :D
Here is the mainspring, the lower leaf with a little decorative filing on it, before filing it similar to Walt's mod. I have drawn some reference marks in blue Sharpie:
(https://i.ibb.co/6RJgkHJ/PA282385.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMFzxSF)
(https://i.ibb.co/NV050zX/PA282386.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgW0WdP)
And after filing it, the file cuts highlighted in blue:
(https://i.ibb.co/G2hd0yG/PA282388.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vPtcHpf)
(https://i.ibb.co/CPtWX4t/PA282389.jpg) (https://ibb.co/41fJDCf)
The last pic isn't the best. I can take a better photo if someone would like to see the mod a bit clearer. After the mod the lock operated noticeably smoother without any "loading".
Curtis
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I got to do some cleanup filing on the trigger guard today as well, here is what I came up with so far:
(https://i.ibb.co/xhDVHxP/PA282376.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H7Vmd51)
(https://i.ibb.co/1KkKZPn/PA282377.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VDsDVzN)
I also started to refine my locks panels, wrist and tang areas now that I have all the major pieces in place. With luck I'll be able to post some more progress in a few days.
Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Very nice!
Runar
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Looking mighty slick, Curtis! That big faceted trigger guard is very attractive. Was that design taken from RCA #43?
Gregg
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Lookin' great, Curtis! Excellent thread.....
Ed
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Good work, Curtis! I'm enjoying seeing different techniques. There's always a room to learn something new.
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Thanks Fellas! Gregg, the only direct on bottom view picture I have just shows the back third of the guard, the rest are pretty much side views. Most of the raised elements were roughly cast on the guard but present. The bottom line is, I think you could call it a reasonably accurate guesstimation of what #43 has.... So to answer your question I would say yes, sort of! That's just another reason to use the phrase "inspired by" instead of "copy of".
I haven't had much time in the shop the past few days, and the next few days don't look very promising either. However, when I had a few minutes to study over my lock panels and wrist area, I took a few pics that are a good example of how raking light is a useful tool. So I thought I would share them with you all.
(https://i.ibb.co/CQz8ms4/PA292390.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rHm0Ffq)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVfWR55/PA292391.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mygczz)
(https://i.ibb.co/FzFh6Gv/PA292392.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2dTFqX2)
(https://i.ibb.co/nLq5218/PA292393.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CHpTd9s)
(https://i.ibb.co/sFVDBBP/PA292394.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vJjrttB)
At this point in a build I do a lot of scraping, as I like the finish it leaves on the wood as well as the precision it allows. It can make the curl in maple really pop! I never even heard of scraping wood before I started building guns. I generally prefer scraping over sanding for a final finish. One concern with scraping is you have to carefully read your grain as you go, and vary your angle and direction of scraping. Only a small amount of wood is removed with each pass, however with repetitive scraping you can remove significant material fairly rapidly. If you have never tried it I recommend you give scraping a chance. A sharp scraper produces the pest results by far.
(https://i.ibb.co/P633GCt/PA292398.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rwTT2yv)
(https://i.ibb.co/pX2QK0F/PA302399.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mzJ0yDW)
(https://i.ibb.co/VgMWcbF/PA302400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0CYjR10)
(https://i.ibb.co/TK5z1zk/PA302401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f87m9m2)
Curtis
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Well I decided it was high time to put a nose cap on the rifle, and it will be a two piece nose cap. I chose .050 brass for the cap, and decided to form the cap directly on the rifle. I used this technique recently on an old rifle that I did some conservation work on, where an oversized commercial cap had been epoxied to the barrel. After removing the cap, I had to replace the missing wood underneath and create a new cap to match the contours of the upper forearm. In order to form a cap in this manner, your brass needs to remain dead soft throughout the process, so if it starts to get springy, anneal it again.
I must prepare the stock for the nosecap, and I decided to treat this like any other inlet and stab in the cut line. I have always cut this line with a saw in the past and have had trouble keeping the cut clean and straight. First I mark my line with some tape, checking it for squareness with my gauge.
(https://i.ibb.co/tCcWXQf/PB012406.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s3QMHbS)
I then gently mark the line by stabbing with a sharp chisel, followed by stabbing in the cut with a wire inlay tool, then making a clearance cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/58RXD4B/PB012407.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r6wKP04)
(https://i.ibb.co/zfK5mWm/PB012409.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RHLSgGg)
(https://i.ibb.co/7b2n33h/PB012414.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qxkNHH6)
Rasp and file the inlet to shape:
(https://i.ibb.co/LxZVtxJ/PB012415.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8r715rd)
A little side note, I recently started using Velcro strips to retain a barrel whenever I am doing something that necessitates frequently taking the barrel in an out. They hold the barrel tightly in place and are rapid to deploy or remove - much better than taking pins in and out. The strips I am using are for bundling computer wires, but any self stick Velcro strip works.
(https://i.ibb.co/xm7xyrP/PB012416.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZHMq3bt)
Make sure you cut the ramrod grove a little larger to match your brass thickness.
(https://i.ibb.co/z6FGsnS/PB032425.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DrY54V7)
I made a template from a bit of cardboard from the back of a notepad, then transferred it's outline to my brass stock.
(https://i.ibb.co/RzVzJ21/PB012418.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wMxM2yT)
(https://i.ibb.co/W31Cq7r/PB012419.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0SpZ4X)
I cut the brass with a hacksaw, then annealed it thoroughly.
(https://i.ibb.co/d06CVjh/PB012420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FbJZymP)
(https://i.ibb.co/bdyLbGp/PB012421.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ysM54xL)
Mark the center and bend over a mandrel that fits your ramrod groove.
(https://i.ibb.co/DY8YL0w/PB012422.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0KFKQHY)
Carefully but firmly clamp it in place, which will help finish the initial radial bend, then start bending the sides down around the forestock using your hands. Anneal as necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/2NVSLQh/PB012423.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dv2DGt)
When I have if formed as much as I can with my fingers, I then start working it down with a flat faced punch and a hammer, working it towards the barrel. The pictures show the general direction of movement:
(https://i.ibb.co/W5BXs24/PB012424.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vqLWDj6)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZJLg5TH/PB052427.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SxsmbvQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zm5CFTQ/PB052428.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FV2ty7Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/mDVR1Xm/PB052429.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0DRn8Fk)
(https://i.ibb.co/RDZ5Syq/PB052430.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLZW0CF)
(https://i.ibb.co/xGxrjvZ/PB052431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QnyxNB0)
(https://i.ibb.co/qjCYM8V/PB052432.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XLDxZPM)
I made a block of scrap to fit my barrel channel to support the fragile stock while the barrel was out for the next step. The raised portion of the block is for putting in a vice, or clamping in place with a two screw wooden clamp. The round piece in the groove is just a scrap of ramrod with a section rasped flat. The hose clamps help to draw the cap down around the top of the stock. I also used a punch and small ball peen to work the brass down. Move the hose clamps around as necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/T065ZTb/PB052433.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Smbp2xd)
(https://i.ibb.co/pz471Zt/PB052435.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9TyDp2F)
It's now pretty well formed.
(https://i.ibb.co/r4sJ8JL/PB052442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NZSzDzk)
Sizing up my last scrap of .050 brass for the end piece.
(https://i.ibb.co/bBmBwW7/PB052444.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pzwzV0n)
I float the front of the cap on a file to flatten it for a nice, tight solder joint. If you make the joint a good fit, it will be stronger and no one will ever be able to see it. Then wire the pieces together and silver solder. I used brass colored silver solder.
(https://i.ibb.co/XxjGNVv/PB052445.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tpQ1k3W)
(https://i.ibb.co/9csZM6h/PB052446.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckDYm0w)
Put the cap back on the rifle and mark for your barrel cutout. If your barrel to channel fit is good this will get you very close.
(https://i.ibb.co/CWjXFZp/PB052447.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R7XMWmG)
(https://i.ibb.co/W0wXfR3/PB052448.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzt6D1h)
Now start sawing!
(https://i.ibb.co/VMkLMpQ/PB052450.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JrScrFy)
(https://i.ibb.co/HYwFGMJ/PB052452.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6b9nDpd)
(https://i.ibb.co/DGY2vzZ/PB052449.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7gQmZjq)
Ready to file and fit:
(https://i.ibb.co/FYXXTKg/PB052453.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z2FFvrG)
(https://i.ibb.co/grHj65R/PB052454.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D1sVLxR)
(https://i.ibb.co/YjjPhjD/PB052455.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x55X65m)
(https://i.ibb.co/gwFsMLn/PB052456.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gk3gv4h)
Once it is filed up, polish with some emery cloth. This is as far as I will go with it for now:
(https://i.ibb.co/B22gz6n/PB062458.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PGG5mWD)
(https://i.ibb.co/NnwkXYC/PB062461.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZ7xd4f)
(https://i.ibb.co/9NpqdYP/PB062464.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NsFLGYR)
(https://i.ibb.co/Vx3pybg/PB062465.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LrvhwBx)
I am told by Jack Brooks that the original cap on #43 was screwed directly to the barrel with a #8 screw. I don't know if I am brave enough to do that on this rifle, since that would interfere with any barrel or wood movement leading to all sorts of possible issues. Any thoughts on that? :o
Thanks for looking, Curtis.
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I think the gunsmith who built #43 used a screw on the nose cap simply because it was expedient. If you wanted the same look, you could inlet a square nut into the barrel channel and run a screw into it, eliminating drilling into the bottom of the barrel and any fears about expansion or contraction of the stock causing damage.
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Curtis I do not know about rifle #43 but rifle #42 is screwed into barrel. The stock is notched in the nose cap inlet from the lug to the end of the stock, this allows the nose cap to float so to speak and changes in the wood or barrel are not affected due to the notch. I have pictures of this on my web site if you want to view them. The pictures are in the rifle 42 folder under the Naked Longrifles tab. Go to www.calvarylongrifles.com
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Singlemalt, that is a great option to think about.
Bama, thanks for sharing that awesome resource and the information! It gives me more confidence in the consideration the screw method of attachment. Those photos are invaluable... what an awesome site this is! ;D
Curtis
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Good stuff, Curtis, well done! Good idea about the Velcro....
Ed
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Good stuff, Curtis, well done! Good idea about the Velcro....
Ed
Ed, your comment made me have to go back and look at the photos again. That is a great idea. That Curtis is a genius.
Heck, on my next poor boy, why even inlet lugs and drill pin holes, I could just use Velcro. ::)
David
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You are a patient and giving man to provide this step by step for folk Curtis.
I am going to try that velcro trick.
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Ed, your comment made me have to go back and look at the photos again. That is a great idea. That Curtis is a genius.
Dave, it made me laugh out loud when I read that! I would like you to do me a favor and try to convince my wife of that "fact" please! :D
Heck, on my next poor boy, why even inlet lugs and drill pin holes, I could just use Velcro. ::)
David
I can see a new west coast trend taking the nation by storm!
Ed and James, I think you will like the Velcro trick, it beats surgical tubing, leather thongs or any of the other stuff I have tried.
Curtis
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curtis,
thank you for taking the time to write and photograph this, it is nice to see how other people
accomplish things that helps us build some nice rifles.
paul
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Curtis sorry for not coming in a little sooner. Here's my 2 cents on your screw to the barrel question. A number of years ago had the opportunity to ask Wallace, after all the years that had passed from making the CW Video if there was anything that they had done in the video that proved "not so good". He said that he would never screw the muzzle cap through the stock and into the barrel again. He said that it changed the point of impact from summer to winter. I thought that was very interesting. Let's hear it for velcro I'm running out of Penrose Drain tubing. Nice job on your project still love to see it in Bowling Green.
Hank
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Hank, thanks for donating your 2 cents worth! That is really good info to consider. Makes me think I may go with what Singlemalt suggested and just make it look like the cap is screwed to the barrel. I'll try to remember to bring you some of that Velcro at Bowling Green.
Paul, when are we going to get together and have that beer?
Curtis
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Just a little tidbit here for those newer builders out there, maybe you will find it useful. I overshot a bit when I did the countersink on one of my buttplate screws, so I used a rounded and flat punch to peen the brass and move some metal in the direction of the countersink. I was able to make the problem all but disappear after filing up the plate. This works with soft brass or mild steel, probably not with cast bronze or hard cast steel. Here are some before and after pics:
(https://i.ibb.co/hYkFzPb/PB112485.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DrNf2xh)
(https://i.ibb.co/9ZwYw8H/PB112486.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1zs2svG)
(https://i.ibb.co/gTbFJGC/PB112488.jpg) (https://ibb.co/85n49JV)
Curtis
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Hello again folks, I have been busy chasing Bambi and doing a little brush hoggin', but finally made it back in the shop for a spell. It's time to put a patch box on the rifle. I decided on a wooden box for the gun, and this will be a first for me since I have yet to do one. So it could get interesting....
I will start with the lid, so I select a scrap piece leftover from my stock blank, draw the plan and profile for the lid and saw it out.
(https://i.ibb.co/CWr0rjB/PB072470.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZNZTZQd)
(https://i.ibb.co/9Vcs68f/PB072472.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b2QzTWy)
(https://i.ibb.co/kmvjDK1/PB072476.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SfGbmNr)
Then square it up some:
(https://i.ibb.co/qWLr4bx/PB072479.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D8PR63L)
Next I made up a couple of special tools. I got this Idea from Jack Brooks, who in turn got the idea from a former student if I remember the story correctly. The tool is made from a 60o three cornered file. Grind one side safe, then grind a chisel point on the end of the file with the safe edge on the bottom. Take it slow and dunk it in water often to keep it cool and preserve the hardness of the file. I got one of these too hot and had to re-harden and heat treat the tip. These will be used in making the dovetails on the lid and in the rifle box.
Chisel point:
(https://i.ibb.co/kywYrvZ/PB102480.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RSsLMd8)
Safe side:
(https://i.ibb.co/PzzgQjy/PB102483.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wrr4sgq)
I made up a third 60o chisel with all three sides ground safe, but neglected to get a picture. I used a wet grinder for that one and didn't burn the tip.
(https://i.ibb.co/cXR9xST/PB152503.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zHCgNTf)
....and in case I need to grind a really large one I have Big Brother. ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/d73mBPJ/PB152504.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9GfZnb3)
Now I mark lines for the dovetail portion of the lid.
(https://i.ibb.co/NNYXbcy/PB102484.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LgpMHVZ)
Then remove the wood in front of the lead dovetail. I sawed down to my reference mark, the powered most of the wood off with a farrier's rasp. I put a razor knife blade in the saw cut to act as a fence to keep from buggering my ledge.
(https://i.ibb.co/Jt00M4F/PB132490.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9gzzCL3)
(https://i.ibb.co/48FmPw4/PB132491.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pTrB5S)
(https://i.ibb.co/xLqqTgz/PB132492.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pwjjFK4)
Now to cut a recess for the side dovetails... Since I am not the best sawyer, I stamped a line with a chisel and back cut a groove to help keep my saw blade on track. The lid tapers a bit from back to front, and the dovetails will taper slightly more than the lid.
(https://i.ibb.co/HNsc0dN/PB142494.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M84zb68)
(https://i.ibb.co/wR0L00v/PB142496.jpg) (https://ibb.co/47mfmmQ)
I started to saw the edge as well, but after buggering one edge with the saw I used a chisel to cut down to my saw line. I will have to fix the boo-boo later and will take pics when I do.
(https://i.ibb.co/PxwFPgC/PB142497.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKQ5wXc)
Next I refined my sketch of the nose in pencil, then rasped it to shape. Then I check it for square - I often use a red or blue Sharpie to mark on the edge of my square, which in turn will transfer a mark to the high spots if you move the square laterally.
(https://i.ibb.co/wwRGpYY/PB142498.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xfD9z33)
(https://i.ibb.co/82XGYcB/PB142499.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfR4PC0)
(https://i.ibb.co/mhXs84L/PB142500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tYxfXD7)
It's time to start cutting the dovetails. I first marked a 60o reference on each end of the dovetail, then alternated between using the chisel and the file to cut the dovetails. I proceeded carefully and was pleasantly surprised on how easily they were formed. Use the sides of the file as a guide. You have the tilt the back edge of the file up to make a chisel cut. I recommend you put a razor edge on the chisel point like you would any other chisel.
(https://i.ibb.co/vVKngLH/PB142502.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tQWrkY4)
(https://i.ibb.co/nwTNMQS/PB152509.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p1gBj4p)
I started cutting the dovetail on the other side, then decided to fix my hacked up saw job so I would have a flat edge to index my cuts with. First I cut a small flat stick of wood from the same block that the lid came from, using wood from close the the area that I will be fixing. Since I cut it with a hand saw, it was somewhat rough and thicker than what I wanted, so I put a razor in the vice and used it to scrape the stick thin and smooth. Don't forget to take the upside-down razor out of the vice. ;D I beveled the bottom edge to fit into the partially finished dovetail. After carefully matching the grain and curl, glue was applied the both pieces and it was clamped in a vice.
(https://i.ibb.co/n8LJPCD/PB162510.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vvjnXYJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/2sCPrRG/PB162511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MGtpHKF)
I really like this glue for maple and walnut. I don't remember where I got it and haven't seen it in any of the big box stores, so when I get low I will have to search for it online. It is very strong and won't leave a yellow line. A tight joint will disappear after staining maple or oiling walnut.
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB162513.jpg)
After the glue is dried and wood filed flush on the side:
(https://i.ibb.co/wR5dZp7/PB162514.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zrqmWPF)
Now to trim back the patch and finish the dovetail. Alternate cuts with the chisel between sides of the dovetail, and switch to filing when needed. I switched from the coarse file to the finer file, or the triple safe edge chisel as needed.
(https://i.ibb.co/8D1BKnF/PB162516.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PZqYmsB)
The front dovetail was cut last. It takes a sharp chisel for the end grain. In retrospect, I think may cut this one first on the next lid I make. I didn't have any issues, however I was worried the whole time I might chip out a big chunk and have another repair to make.
(https://i.ibb.co/4MjQPLt/PB162518.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jGLpgYf)
Dovetails complete!
(https://i.ibb.co/NVrCsC3/PB162521.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r730m0t)
Time to shape the lid up a bit. I knocked the corners off with a scrub plane:
(https://i.ibb.co/Hr0ZHK3/PB162523.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCMKZ0H)
Then started contouring and shaping with a spoke shave. The spoke shave makes very quick work of it!:
(https://i.ibb.co/ggX2YJf/PB162526.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HgMSZqb)
(https://i.ibb.co/vLJtW75/PB162527.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p43mTtD)
(https://i.ibb.co/KDMgmtG/PB162532.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vx7G3FN)
(https://i.ibb.co/7RZfZW8/PB162534.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LJcFctb)
A little file work smoothed it all out. I forgot to take a picture but there will be plenty that show the lid during the fitting process that will come later.
Now I start preparing a flat spot on the butt stock for the box and lid. I use a straight edge marked up with a Sharpie to help show me the high spots:
(https://i.ibb.co/HFDXjjP/PB162537.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VjW3ssC)
(https://i.ibb.co/WVXNzLp/PB162538.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hYNxdS1)
I ran out of time for the day, so that's it for now! Thanks for looking.
Curtis
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Thanks for illustrating the fabrication of a one piece patch box lid and the "chisel files." I've always done mine in two pieces, so this is something new to me that I want to try..
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Curtis I want to thank you for what you are doing! Year's ago I purchased Herchels videos on gun building. What you are doing here has helped myself an many other's. I put what you are doing next to those! Experience an amateur builders alike have bennifited from this. Thank you very much. Mike
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hey Curtis
im usually always available for that beer id love to show you some of my lh flintlocks
ive built thanks to all the folks on this websight
paul
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Thanks guys, I'm glad to hear you may be getting something useful out of this, it makes it worth the trouble of taking the photos and writing things up. Don't forget I'm always up for questions, and will be glad to give answers if I have one.
Oldtraveler61, I appreciate the comparison, but in no way am I near the same class of builder as Herschel House! I'm just one guy stumbling through a build and sharing my journey.
Paul, that would be fun!
With luck I will have the patchbox today completed and post pictures this evening.
Curtis
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I had too many chores to do today to get my patchbox completely finished, however I did make some progress. All work and no play makes Curt a dull boy... Here are some photos of what I have and how I got there.
After getting a flat spot started by scraping, I moved on to rasps and files in order to remove wood quicker, I even did some draw filing.
(https://i.ibb.co/xMWRLXx/PB172540.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WcZY5Gm)
After prepping the area, I laid out the center-line of the lid, starting from a little higher than midpoint on the butt on the back to the touch hole on the other end. I then traced around the outside of the lid, then the dovetailed portion of the base. I then measured to the minor dimension of the dovetails and put those lines on the stock. The latter (inside) lines will be my cut lines for removing wood to allow for creating the dovetails on the stock. I scribed my cut lines so I can feel where the chisel belongs for the cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/CvyJDhp/PB172541.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MpH8QMy)
(https://i.ibb.co/zrwhxbT/PB172542.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R9WpbPk)
The excavation begins, using whatever means necessary. I used a depth gauge to measure progress:
(https://i.ibb.co/dk3LkPm/PB172543.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WBdPBkV)
(https://i.ibb.co/gTrRgZG/PB172544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XsWCJx9)
(https://i.ibb.co/nzx9KF6/PB182545.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NZc5GMt)
Excavation completed!
(https://i.ibb.co/CvCd7ZZ/PB182546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P4Xphnn)
I cut the side dovetails, alternating between chiseling and filing with the special three cornered chisel-files.
(https://i.ibb.co/3h4W7nD/PB182548.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfQbrzy)
Then start fitting the lid. I used a little letting black on the lid to spot trouble areas to remove wood from.
(https://i.ibb.co/B4H98qZ/PB182549.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XyfqmSs)
Once the lid was contacted the front of the excavated area, I cut the dovetail for that area. For starters I used my triple safe edge chisel-file for a guide.
(https://i.ibb.co/Ky31H2V/PB182553.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PCfS8c1)
I used a mortising chisel as well as a couple of skew chisels to clean out the corners.
(https://i.ibb.co/4tDzqsd/PB182556.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H4M6SNd)
The first round of fitting is now complete.
(https://i.ibb.co/Wx0w7vG/PB182558.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qyCfhY7)
The buttplate was reinstalled, filed to reflect the new flat spot, then marked for the dovetail cutout.
(https://i.ibb.co/TTCKynL/PB182559.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8BhzkRc)
The marked piece was removed from the plate with a hacksaw and a jeweler's saw, the plate installed again, then finish filed to match the wood dovetails. Both unaltered three cornered files and the special chisel files were used.
(https://i.ibb.co/F88s4hT/PB182560.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dkkb4fY)
The lid is test fit until it works nicely:
(https://i.ibb.co/2Yp6kcy/PB182561.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cXsvr21)
Then filed flush with the buttplate.
(https://i.ibb.co/1Rz5pvP/PB192562.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3SRq8rj)
The back of the lid was traced onto .080 brass and cut out with a hacksaw, leaving some extra material around the lines to allow for the brass piece to be angled when installed, and for fitting with files.
(https://i.ibb.co/YX6zzDm/PB192565.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZS3nnH5)
Check the fit, then carefully align and attach with wood screws.
(https://i.ibb.co/JyWP2SL/PB192566.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wwZ1C2H)
(https://i.ibb.co/jrKpGh1/PB202567.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qrGZ9BP)
The endcap was then filed flush with the wood, leaving a bit extra on the dovetails for final fitting.
(https://i.ibb.co/yYGrGHm/PB202568.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MGWmWFy)
When happy with the cap, I then countersunk the screw heads, leaving the slots proud of the brass so they can be filed off, leaving enough countersunk screw head in the brass to retain the cap.
(https://i.ibb.co/c8Ynd20/PB212569.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QHDwGYL)
I then filed wood off the front dovetail of the lid, about 3/4 the thickness of the endcap, then fine tuned the brass cap by filing until it fits the dovetail in the buttplate nicely. Remove a bit more from the front dovetail if needed to bring the brass endcap in line with the inside face of the butplate. When I was getting really close to where I wanted it, I cut a piece of carbon paper to fit in the mortice and tapped the lid forward for a tight fit on the front mortise dovetail. I used a chisel to pare off wood inside the mortise as needed. Be sure to hang onto the small bit of carbon paper when you blow out the wood chips or you will may end up cutting another one. Don't ask me how I know that. ::)
(https://i.ibb.co/gR48yK0/PB212572.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jrJYhXC)
When satisfied with the fit on both ends, the fitting is done and the final filing begins.
(https://i.ibb.co/Xz9m5M4/PB212574.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zh3yg7J)
(https://i.ibb.co/sgwkGFn/PB212581.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gd2BLVy)
I am now finally finished with the lid until I make the retaining spring.
I started boring out the box cavity before I had to quit for the day. I used an old brace I picked up in Iowa at an antique show a couple of years back, complete with a variety of bits for all manner of drilling operations. It's a dandy!
(https://i.ibb.co/Ct2Bzw4/PB212578.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PYQxNrJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/J7TtCf8/PB212580.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R0Kb7xt)
Then I ran out of time, with luck I may get back to it for a while in the midst of Thanksgiving activities. I'll post some progress when I can!
Thanks again for looking,
Curtis
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Five holes were bored into the patch box cavity. I was quite surprised by the old bits, once I figured out how to sharpen them correctly, they cleanly bored a hole almost as quickly as a modern Forstner bit.
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB222583.jpg)
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB222585.jpg)
Excess wood around the perimeter of the cavity was removed as quickly and neatly as I could with chisels.
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB222586.jpg)
Then the bottom of the box was cleaned up with chisels, an old woman's tooth, and by scraping.
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB222589.jpg)
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB222593.jpg)
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB232594.jpg)
And that's it for the patch box cavity excavation. I am considering leaving some of the tool marks on the floor of the cavity so future longrifle enthusiasts will have something to converse about. ;D
(https://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/gonzomann_2007/RCA%2043%20Christians%20Spring/PB242610.jpg)
Curtis
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The next step will be manufacturing a spring for the patchbox lid. I started making one from an old buggy spring, but ran into issues when forging out the head as the metal was too brittle. Perhaps I didn't get it annealed properly? So I chose another scrap that appeared to be springy....
Cutting spring blank with a hacksaw:
(https://i.ibb.co/Qmtk1K9/PB232600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cTVw7rJ)
Forging out the head, it must be angled horizontally and vertically to match the shape of the back of the lid:
(https://i.ibb.co/pK1QJbj/PB232601.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X5WDSjx)
(https://i.ibb.co/mvPb3XF/PB232603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JxSm9yF)
Once forged out a bit oversize, the head was marked up and filed to shape, then the blank was cleaned up a bit.
(https://i.ibb.co/rZNFp41/PB232606.jpg) (https://ibb.co/55wGjBf)
(https://i.ibb.co/QQD46ts/PB232608.jpg) (https://ibb.co/54KP5wq)
The plan and profile was sketched on the blank, then the blank was filed to the final contour.
(https://i.ibb.co/1v5HPtd/PB232609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDwQ2VX)
(https://i.ibb.co/YDy5BnB/PB252611.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vsQN4y4)
Though part of the host piece of steel had once been bent in an arc and used like a spring, the much smaller spring I had fashioned would not reliably hold it's curved shape and act like a proper spring. I attempted to harden it, but alas the carbon content was insufficient.
Instead of giving up on it, I decided to test a theory: Since this is a medium sized, light duty spring, if I would case-harden the springy portion, why wouldn't it hold up to the job and make a decent spring? So I bent the spring to the desired profile and case hardened the lower two thirds. It is now quite springy, and retained its shape even when closed several times in a vice. Don't think it will hold up? Then it is up to you, the reader to prove my theory wrong! :o Naturally, if it shows signs of failing I will tell on myself and report it here as well. 8)
(https://i.ibb.co/nCCZW9j/PB252613.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0tt8wTr)
The partially complete spring must now be inlet into the lid, so it was positioned an scribed around. I will cut the mortise a bit larger than the spring to allow for free movement. I laid out the mortise approximately a quarter inch shorter than the spring body, and flat on the end so the spring can be burned and driven into the lid when it's time.
(https://i.ibb.co/LpndGQb/PB252615.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ry42WbT)
Wood is then removed:
(https://i.ibb.co/2qFFswy/PB252616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5T11nd6)
Once the mortise is near depth, I cut the brass plate to clear the spring, using a jeweler's saw:
(https://i.ibb.co/DbQwHT6/PB252617.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RScQkdM)
Then file it to final depth. I will adjust the mortise and file more as needed:
(https://i.ibb.co/nsnp7GF/PB252618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/99VPbD7)
The catch it then marked on the spring, the line cut with a jeweler's saw, and filed into it with a safe edged mill file.
(https://i.ibb.co/yRFV5Xw/PB272620.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8BgX20W)
(https://i.ibb.co/sRX7mnV/PB272621.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QQx0bLK)
In a recent discussion about patch boxes, I was told by Bob Lienemann that "sometimes there is a metal shim about ¼” or so forward of rear, and a <corresponding> notch in the patch box spring, so that box can be slid back a bit, without fully removing it." This feature is possibly just on finer rifles. One theory is so the patchbox lid could be slid back in wet weather to prevent it sticking when it swelled. Or could it be a safety catch so the lid is not lost if the catch spring is bumped in the field?
Regardless that the proper reason could possibly be lost to antiquity, I decided I would see if I could make a secondary catch for this patchbox lid.
A small piece of steel stock was cut, profiled and sharpened so it could be driven into the floor of the patchbox cavity. I made sure it was fit tightly against the back wall:
(https://i.ibb.co/BTCbPW1/PB282622.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r5wYt8W)
(https://i.ibb.co/DLmWD4y/PB282623.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hCr9Rsj)
When I was satisfied with the fit and function, the remaining third of the spring faced was case hardened and installed in the lid.
(https://i.ibb.co/QjRp8jR/PB282630.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpwGDpw)
Box closed:
(https://i.ibb.co/478Crgn/PB282625.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4qnrPT)
Then opened to the notch:
(https://i.ibb.co/xCFvPZ6/PB282627.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2nZ2mJd)
I don't know about anybody else, but I personally think it's time for a beer!
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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So far on my next build I need to try scraping my brass components and drawing the sideplate on the stock first, and then tracing it as a pattern. That seems so simple, and I've never thought to do it. Loving his thread.
Greg
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Great Tutorial!
Thanks for taking the time to show your steps in building this rifle! It really helps new guys, like myself!!
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This thread should imo be put in the tutorial section. There is such a good amount of information. Enjoying this a lot, thanks Curtis
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Great tutorial and work. Thanks
Dan
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Curtis,
Glad you are doing a tutorial and I am just posting progress updates. My hat is off to you for posting all the pictures. It is a lot of work to take the photos, upload them to Photobucke ot Tinypics and then download them to ALR. I have been having issues with Photobucket the last 2 times I tried to upload photos. Opened an account in Tinypics which works but seems to take more time. Maybe I just need to get more familiar with the host. What host are you using
I look forward to your continued documentation of your processes. I always learn something.
David
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I'm with you David. I really enjoy seeing how others go about these processes, and I too always learn something, and get stimulation and insight.
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I really appreciate the encouraging words guys! Dave, I have to agree with you, sometimes it can be a pain editing, uploading and posting all the photos... but it's still "fun to share" what happens in the shop and worth it in the long run.
There has been some family obligations and holiday stuff slowing me down, but hopefully I will have things wrapped up for another posting in a couple of days. I have been sculpting and polishing my lock - is it just me or does lock polishing seem to take forever to anyone else? ::)
Curtis
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I have been sculpting and polishing my lock - is it just me or does lock polishing seem to take forever to anyone else? ::)
Curtis
Yes it does! It not just you!
I'm doing the same now and it is going sllooowww...
Cheers,
Norm
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Back again, for what it's worth! As I mentioned earlier, I have been working on sculpting the cock and lock plate to look more like the original lock on #43, also cleaning up and polishing the lock in general.
Just for a visual reminder, here is a photo of the lock before sculpting next to a photo of the original:
(https://i.ibb.co/JB1BgjH/PA282382.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2n9nH3d)
I have an old Ottoman flintlock pistol that happens to have a very interesting forged lock that was sculpted in a very similar manner to what I am aiming to achieve with my lock, here are a couple of photos that illustrate in better detail than the photo of #43's lock.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5MSTVr/PC042687.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1GwbQtY)
(https://i.ibb.co/q1jnhLC/PC042690.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nkm04qB)
(https://i.ibb.co/wCtBnf5/PC042691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bjkch90)
First I attack the cock with a square graver, after marking a cut line with a blue Sharpie. The graver should be positioned to give a flat face at the back of the cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/jkQ1SfW/PC042683.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kxf3JhL)
After making a few passes and achieving the depth of cut I wanted, the filing begins to clean up the bevel. Several different files were used. The cock topjaw was polished and teeth cut in the "mouth".
(https://i.ibb.co/DKkvSGK/PC052693.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mzt2Mvz)
(https://i.ibb.co/4JhWfwG/PC092709.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cx4JvKH)
(https://i.ibb.co/QY8myRf/PC092710.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZcHTqPV)
Once I was finished with the cock, I moved on to the lock plate. Again, multiple passes were required to reach the desired depth. I simply used the edge of the bevel to establish my cut line on the plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/LgcjBzq/PC052694.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dpVCX03)
(https://i.ibb.co/QvhGDQ8/PC052695.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7tBFkCg)
(https://i.ibb.co/NLc4TXy/PC062696.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzDh3Ns)
I found I could use the sharp face of the graver as a scraper, pushing it to cut the facet a bit cleaner before filing the bevel.
(https://i.ibb.co/3p60WZQ/PC062701.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jy0LGXs)
Onto the cleanup filing.... use whatever fits the need, be careful to not scar the flat face at the edge of the plate. A safe edge helps a great deal.
(https://i.ibb.co/vL5FMbR/PC062697.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JrL1SNg)
(https://i.ibb.co/r3P7KxT/PC062698.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ypTfm6G)
When that chore was complete, I moved on to polishing the plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/CnDzkC2/PC072704.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jLsTc0R)
If you are not on speaking terms with your Dremel (like Chowmi :) ) a diamond file works pretty well on the hardened frizzen. I started with a coarse grit and migrated to finer grits. Diamond sharpening plates will also work and can be purchased fairly inexpensively.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FjDz99/PC072705.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GdV1yBB)
The cast frizzen spring required considerable cleanup and re-cutting some if the details and slashes.
(https://i.ibb.co/5cJFVKb/PC092706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kcP1FmN)]
Once all the polishing and detailing was completed, the lock was assembled and checked for appearance. I will continue lo look it over as I progress with the rifle and see if I think something needs to be refined or altered. Here are some photos with it back in the rifle:
(https://i.ibb.co/g4wn9wC/PC092713.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WVFT5F1)
(https://i.ibb.co/9GRCjFp/PC092714.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4JB5x6F)
(https://i.ibb.co/FHh3k8M/PC092715.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LN0RD9W)
(https://i.ibb.co/XpmLnpn/PC092716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5vq4QvQ)
That's it for tonight! Thanks for taking a look.
Curtis
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Hey Curtis,
That looks great! I've been dreading doing the same with mine, but that's a ways in the future. Gotta finish other projects first.
Thanks for posting your process, I had been thinking to use a flat graver, but I like your method better. A bit less metal removed on each pass perhaps than a flat one, but I would think more forgiving of slips.
Still not on speaking terms with the Dremel!!
Where did you get the diamond file? I really like that idea. I have some diamond sharpening stones for my gravers but had thought to keep them for gravers only.
Cheers,
Chowmi. (Norm)
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Norm,
I tried a flat graver to help clean up and form the bevel a couple different times, however always went back to using the square graver as it gave the best results for me. (your mileage may vary) For the initial cuts I would definitely recommend the square, it does the job well and you can control whether you cut with one face or two, depending on your needs.
The diamond file came from Bass Pro of all places, at the knife counter. I think the intent is for sharpening blades, but when I saw it I immediately thought of gun building. It has a magnetic base with three interchangeable file faces, coarse, medium and fine. you can use the file face without the magnetic base for delicate operations. I think it was about thirty bucks when I purchased it a few years back.
Curtis
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Curtis,
Thank you. I will have to get some of those files.
You did a nice clean job on that lock plate.
Thanks again for taking the time to post pictures.
Norm
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I agree, a nice job on the lock. Polishing a lock is tedious!
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Curtis you have done an outstanding job on this. The step by step for us that have only built a couple of guns has been extremely helpful. Sure hope this can be put in the tutorial section. Thank you very much. Mikke
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Looking really nice, Curtis. I like how faithful your being towards the original work this is based on.
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Thanks Traveler and Jim! I have been cutting some wood on the back forty, but have had some shop time in between. In reference to your comment in particular Jim, I have made a larger cock screw for the lock to compare more favorably to the original. I will try to post some pics in a few days, along with any other progress I may make.
Curtis
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Curtis,
Thank you great post! We can never stop learning. You make me cry when I think of my first stock from curly maple many years ago. Spoke shaves, planes and such just skidded and hopped. I know operator error and just not sharp, maybe, that wood was hard! I haven’t gotten away from walnut since. Love your file work, you are a real master. Enjoy your retirement I am into about ten years now and still not caught up. Thanks again.
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Looks crisp and beautiful from here. God Bless, Marc
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Thanks for your very kind comments Hudson and Marcruger. Hudson, hard wood can be a real booger, as you already suspected the key to cutting it with bladed tools is to get them SHARP SHARP SHARP! I thought I knew how to sharpen blades - then I tried using them on maple. Had to go to sharpening school all over again!
Curtis
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Just a short update for now. As mentioned previously I made a new, larger cock screw to resemble the original a bit more, and while I was at it I worked over the cock a bit more.
After some offsite conversation with a friend who offered some excellent critique, I gave the cock a bit more angle on the bevel around the cock screw, and modified the area above the breast of the cock by accentuating the "scooped out" area, a feature of the cock on #43 and some other rifles from the same era. More filing and another polish job!
Since my shop and I are both deprived of a lathe, I had to get a little creative with making a larger cock screw. I had kicked around a couple different ideas and the following is what I ended up going with. I started with a bumper bolt and a 6-40 socket head cap screw. I soaked the cap screw in some muriatic acid to remove the black oxide coating. The screw could be made from scratch if you have a 6-40 die.
(https://i.ibb.co/1Z0yHBx/PC142740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jnc6X8P)
I chucked the bolt in my drill press and used a file to mill the diameter down a bit, and reshape the head.
(https://i.ibb.co/JQCB4ZV/PC122732.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WtsxwCZ)
Then I found the center and cut a slot with a hacksaw. (forgot to snap a pic of that) The slot left by the saw was a bit narrower than my thinnest file, so I used some emery backed by a razor blade to widen the slot enough to get the file started. I really need to order some screw slot files one of these days!
(https://i.ibb.co/QJQGmHg/PC122733.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L0RfpgF)
(https://i.ibb.co/GQpf6z8/PC122734.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMmqGxY)
Once the file would fit I prettied up the slot a bit.
(https://i.ibb.co/PcTvJzc/PC122735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6bSRX6)
When I was happy with the slot, I the cut the head off with a hacksaw. Sounds gruesome, eh? :-[
(https://i.ibb.co/ThmkvMG/PC122737.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bsqtz2J)
The back of the head was cleaned up with a file, then floated on a mill file to smooth it up.
(https://i.ibb.co/yBvGJXv/PC122738.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x89PQD9)
Center was located and marked with a center punch.
(https://i.ibb.co/rwZKS9C/PC142741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZCDWKL)
I drilled a short hole in the bottom of the head and tapped it with a 6-40 plug tap. All oil and residue was cleaned out and brazing flux applied. I sprinkled some fine brass filings in the hole, dipped the wet screw in some more filings, and screwed it tightly into the head. Just for good measure I piled a small amount of filings around the screw and added some borax for flux.
(https://i.ibb.co/LPsbZkQ/PC142742.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MhJWC28)
The whole mess was then torched until the brass melted, thus brazing the screw in place.
(https://i.ibb.co/tLsBmtF/PC142744.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6XPYnxL)
(https://i.ibb.co/k6hNz6H/PC142745.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z1hqv1L)
Of course more cleanup and polishing were now in order. I removed the leftover slag with diamond files, then put the screw back in the drill press to polish the face. The socket cap was removed with a hacksaw and the end cleaned up with a file.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZV0p1gb/PC142746.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mG3VFyP)
The new screw was the given a new home. I like it much better than the original! The mods to the cock are subtle but an improvement, IMHO.
(https://i.ibb.co/p4vHFMB/PC162749.jpg) (https://ibb.co/44ZbrXn)
I then began scraping the stock to it's final shape, did some refining of the lock panels, and started filing and draw filing the barrel to clean it up.
(https://i.ibb.co/h1TQ5D3/PC122729.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M5JwTMF)
I don't know the proper name for this style if file (perhaps some of you machinists can help out here) but it works great for knocking off the rough finish of a barrel. It works more like planing the barrel than filing. It can leave a decent finish by itself, however when done with this stage I will hit the barrel with a fine mill file and some emery cloth for the final finish. I plan on charcoal bluing this barrel so I will want a pretty nice polish on it. Here is a pic of the mystery file I picked up at a swap meet, and the finish it leaves after several passes. I used it at a small angle so it will follow the swamp.
(https://i.ibb.co/3W1ZZdM/PC162751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mtJWWTX)
(https://i.ibb.co/MPVcnGb/PC162752.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frpkMnb)
Hopefully I will have the stock ready to start drawing my carving designs soon. I have the next week pretty well planned out for me with graduations, birthdays and holiday fun so it may be a couple weeks before I have much to show. In the meantime, any comments or critiques are always appreciated
Until then, Merry Christmas everyone!
Curtis
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Heck of a good idea on replacing the screw.
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I don't know the proper name for this style if file (perhaps some of you machinists can help out here) but it works great for knocking off the rough finish of a barrel. It works more like planing the barrel than filing. It can leave a decent finish by itself, however when done with this stage I will hit the barrel with a fine mill file and some emery cloth for the final finish. I plan on charcoal bluing this barrel so I will want a pretty nice polish on it. Here is a pic of the mystery file I picked up at a swap meet, and the finish it leaves after several passes. I used it at a small angle so it will follow the swamp.
Until then, Merry Christmas everyone!
Curtis
It's probably a Nicholson "magicut file" 07917. ;D
Cheers,
Smoketown
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Thanks for the info, Smoketown.
I finished up the draw filing by going over the barrel with a large mill file then a finer mill file. After the filing was complete I sanded the barrel with some 240 grit emery backed with a file. I will probably polish it with at least 400 grit before bluing, but that task will wait until I am ready to blue. If I were browning, I would likely stop after the finer mill file.
(https://i.ibb.co/P504810/PC232759.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9qS2jyS)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y86prLx/PC232763.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3WwBJCn)
(https://i.ibb.co/znKjBCd/PC232765.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WxSqM7C)
I my opinion the secret to any repetitive filing task is some music with a good driving rhythm. Just what is the ultimate filing music? Alas, that is a trade secret and cannot be discussed here, but only over a cold beer. :P
Curtis
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I decided to take Singlemalt's suggestion and attach the nosecap with a #8 screw and a flat nut, to make it look like the original but without the issues that come with screwing the nosecap and stock to the barrel. I couldn't find any #8 tapered head slotted head steel screws locally. Lots of them in brass and stainless, but not in steel. I didn't want to order a box of 100 so I decided to make my own. I started with a nail with an approximately 100 degree tapered head. A shallow taper will fit the purpose much better anyways.
(https://i.ibb.co/qrDgHd6/PC242767.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mcRynGp)
I cut the nail about 1-1/4" long and threaded it full length with an 8-32 die. I started with longer stock to help with starting the die straight, and to give me more to hang onto while working with it. The head was quite lopsided so I filed it to a much rounder state, then filed the top of the head smooth.
(https://i.ibb.co/RgykSNk/PC242773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YNZFWXF)
(https://i.ibb.co/nR3QGQ3/PC242774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fQ8rgr8)
Next a slot was cut with a hacksaw and cleaned up with a file.
(https://i.ibb.co/JtPLvv6/PC242775.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LRfwxxj)
(https://i.ibb.co/4mMvsYV/PC242776.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gjwqvPR)
The screw was then case hardened, as the nail material is quite soft left alone.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZcnX29V/PC242777.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HGW4hZV)
Next I took a flat nut for a #5 screw, drilled the hole larger and tapped it to 8-32.
(https://i.ibb.co/v3pt50t/PC252778.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Byb1D01)
Then filed off about 2/3 of the original thickness.
(https://i.ibb.co/XzRNr4B/PC252782.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P5H3vYp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Mf9YZ3h/PC252784.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PMt7FfY)
...and then case hardened it, since there were only a few threads left at this thickness and I wanted it to hold tightly.
(https://i.ibb.co/LN6j6V6/PC252785.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Z2K2Q2)
(https://i.ibb.co/D95YzQG/PC252788.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bszFQXH)
(https://i.ibb.co/DL3wqvg/PC252790.jpg) (https://ibb.co/52qs7Sx)
They fit each other!
(https://i.ibb.co/pvdkxtJ/PC252791.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GvRr0Kc)
A clearance hole was drilled in the muzzlecap and stock, then a 100o countersink applied to the hole.
(https://i.ibb.co/wdv0WF2/PC252792.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FQmTn0)
The nut was screwed in place and scribed around, then inlet with a small chisel made from a screwdriver. Note the barrel scrap in the barrel channel used as support for clamping in the vice:
(https://i.ibb.co/pjxp7tz/PC252793.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JjKP1f7)
(https://i.ibb.co/zJwcchN/PC252795.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q5wGGMx)
Next the screw was cut to size, screwed in tight, then filed flush to the nut.
(https://i.ibb.co/5WtHVBH/PC252796.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HD18Qn8)
(https://i.ibb.co/mBVcNpT/PC252797.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N3dyTRC)
And now the cap won't go flying off when the rifle is fired!
(https://i.ibb.co/wKh7Spq/PC262798.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kh2J4qT)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I am making the sights for this rifle, and I want the rear sight to be similar to the original on #43. It will be manufactured from a railroad spike. I posted about making another rear sight in a similar manner here: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=28998.msg276869#msg276869 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=28998.msg276869#msg276869) So I won't go into a lot of detail here.
This sight is a little different but the process is similar. Start with a spike, and measure the section to be cut, then hacksaw to length. A 14tpi blade works well here:
(https://i.ibb.co/zsrtxyv/PC262801.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Q9fxQ2w)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q6J0pKv/PC262802.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jL8tbrk)
(https://i.ibb.co/DkKHh0x/PC262803.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tcCTgV7)
Then layout the details on the sight blank:
(https://i.ibb.co/BwsKsQ2/PC262805.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0QJVJ6y)
For some cuts, such as the sight blade and certain decorative accents, I used the edge of the vice as a fence to help guide the blade.
(https://i.ibb.co/swHX9sP/PC262807.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7W40trz)
(https://i.ibb.co/tb1qK7V/PC262808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YtVcQzH)
Filing here, filing there, filing filing everywhere:
(https://i.ibb.co/PT9L1L5/PC262809.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CJMcVcn)
(https://i.ibb.co/Fs22zc9/PC272810.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PTKKgJR)
The slot was started with a jeweler's saw. then finished with a file.
(https://i.ibb.co/j3TskKd/PC272814.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4473Ryc)
Now it's done until I cut the dovetails in the barrel and fit it.
(https://i.ibb.co/5hcTGbv/PC272816.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kxy6bT7)
Curtis
-
For the front "barleycorn" sight I will use a method documented by Jack Brooks on his "Classroom" page, near the bottom. Here is a link to the page: http://www.jsbrookslongrifles.com/theclassroom.htm (http://www.jsbrookslongrifles.com/theclassroom.htm) Lots of good stuff to be found on that website!
Start with a piece of brass and follow Jack's instructions. Here are a few photos of mine:
(https://i.ibb.co/mGLsK20/PC272815.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g3518fd)
Folded:
(https://i.ibb.co/crbY7Y9/PC272817.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDsHjH1)
Cut:
(https://i.ibb.co/1Rtk8bS/PC272819.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BT59qw1)
Ready to file up:
(https://i.ibb.co/d4wnND7/PC272822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CK3xjQW)
And this is as far as I got before I ran out of time for the day.
(https://i.ibb.co/KVg6dLH/PC272823.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zcrd5YC)
Hopefully I will have more to share later this week. Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Nice work Curtis, and thanks for posting!
keep plugging along so I can copy you, I mean.... continue to copy the original....
Cheers,
Norm
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These posts are very helpful for less experience builders. Thank you very much for sharing.
Keith
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I really enjoyed your post about making the rear sight.
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Great job on everything Curtis! Question on the front sight. Did you solder it when you folded?
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Curtis,
This is going to make a great tutorial when your thru.
Great work!
And I love your innovative methods of making do with what you have.
Thanks for taking the time to document all your hard work.
Jeff
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Great work Curtis, thanks for sharing.It has been a pleasure to watch your progress with this build.....Bob
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Thanks for all your comments guys, it means a lot to hear someone may get something useful from all these ramblings.
Mike, yep I soldered it. Even though my head knew it is not necessary, my hands couldn't stop themselves from doing it. I have been known to trend towards "overkill" from time to time. Okay, most of the time! ;)
Curtis
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When I got back to the shop after a little deer hunting this morning I decided I wasn't happy with the way things were going on the front sight, so I folded up another one using some .040 stock and started over. It only took about ten minutes and I was filing away on the new sight. Yes Mike, I soldered this one too! Just a dab of paste solder. Silver solder would be way overkill, unless of course you are soldering up a two piece sight in which case it would be recommended.
Here it is ready to install when the dovetail is cut in the barrel. Unless I change my mind again, of course. :D
(https://i.ibb.co/WGMhTth/PC282824.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TY7fCLf)
(https://i.ibb.co/xJkLNw6/PC282825.jpg) (https://ibb.co/18gQkBT)
I started cutting the dovetail for the rear sight, didn't get it finished today 'cause I changed the oil in my tractor and pickup this afternoon. I sure have a lot of excuses for not doing the fun stuff for a retired guy, don't I?
Taylor's underlug tutorial, in the tutorial section, explains the process quite well, I do it pretty much the same way, starting with a hacksaw. If you haven't done one before, you may want to cut your sight dovetails before you draw file the barrel, in case of a slip. Just be careful and good things will happen! A skitter across your barrel with the saw blade could make even a good preacher cuss. This is a loooong dovetail so lots of cuts with the saw.
(https://i.ibb.co/vvFzs4R/PC282826.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G36PsQN)
(https://i.ibb.co/gz7VDsz/PC282827.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KFGw9CF)
Then I take a cold chisel to the raised metal, first a large one to remove the bulk of it, then as I get close I use a small one. A sharp chisel works best.
(https://i.ibb.co/37cZGML/PC282829.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nbjJZn5)
(https://i.ibb.co/DgQd7TB/PC282830.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tPDRbF0)
(https://i.ibb.co/7b7s2j2/PC282831.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZNyqWGW)
When it is close to smooth I start with a file. I recommend the widest one that will fit the slot without bunging the edges. A pillar file works well, or you can modify a mill file with one or two safe edges.
(https://i.ibb.co/M27B6ZH/PC282833.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZLx2mGr)
More to come later.
Curtis
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Mas excelente mi amigo!
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"I my opinion the secret to any repetitive filing task is some music with a good driving rhythm. Just what is the ultimate filing music? Alas, that is a trade secret and cannot be discussed here, but only over a cold beer. :P"
Curtis
Well, I know there is no beer available at the moment, however, may I suggest "foggy mountain breakdown" with lester flatt and earl Scruggs?
It will definitely get you there a little quicker..... ;D ;D
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Thanks Curtis. I considered doing the folded sight, but worried I'd file into the fold when filing it down to sight in, and if unsoldered it might separate. Then I worried about the solder line showing, and ended up filing one from solid stock. Likely took me 3x as long as folding one, and the solder line, if I filed that far, would likely be visible only to me..... Looking good, thanks for taking the time to do this!
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Great suggestion TMerkley! You may be onto something there...
Mike, on this sight I put a dab of solder paste inside the folded area before I squeezed it tight in the vice, it only takes a very small amount. After squeezing hard in the vice I usually give a few raps with a ball peen hammer on a vice to make sure there is no gap even in the bottom of the fold. 90% of the solder will squish out and have to be wiped off. Then I unfolded the sight at the prescribed angle, and wiped the solder off what will be the base. Hit it with the torch until the solder melts. When I was filing the sight I could barely find the center line with good lighting and 1.75 readers on, I kept turning over to see the bottom to make sure I was centered. Rio grand sells low temp brass colored silver solder that blends with brass perfectly, you would never ever have to worry about showing a line.
Curtis
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I believe I forgot to mention earlier that is it a good idea to use a new, sharp hacksaw blade for cutting your dovetails. It helps insure that it cuts where you want it to and doesn't screech across your barrel and give you a panic fit. If you don't have a nearly fresh one, go buy one! For these dovetails I used a 14tpi blade. I have always used a finer blade in the past but I really liked the way the 14tpi cut. I read here on the board that someone else used a 14tpi, I forget who that was... Mike Brooks perhaps?
One thing that may be helpful is to use a scrap of brass stock of the same thickness as your dovetail depth as a gauge to check your depth and level of your cut. I also found if I used a marker on the scrap and moved it around it will help to show high spots. You can usually see them with good lighting, but this will make them stand out, as well as indicate you when you have filed the high spots down.
(https://i.ibb.co/xhG7pKr/PC292834.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H7YHWL9)
(https://i.ibb.co/LQvg5GC/PC292835.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JxCpQhz)
Ready to cut the dovetails...
(https://i.ibb.co/2qXYHTz/PC292838.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CBxsDfj)
I have a special dovetail file from Brownell's that does an excellent job, however every file cuts differently and I usually end up using two or three when tuning the cut. I find occasionally i may have to use the cutting edge on the bottom for a couple of strokes to keep the dovetail on track. It is important to cut with strokes and not a scrubbing motion if you want a straight cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/0D72dvJ/PC292839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5M04fwc)
(https://i.ibb.co/W3Mhdzn/PC292840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vBTFrd1)
When you are almost there it is time to raise the dovetail. This is normally done on the rear sight only, due to the design of the front sight. I have a fancy tool for this I bought from Track. It has only been used once, on a single dovetail. I will never use it again, so if you want one send me a PM and I will sell it cheap. I wouldn't recommend you buy it even from me. 8)
(https://i.ibb.co/JqtjsjC/PC292842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0K2yGyQ)
This is what I now use, a cold chisel that is ground to an appropriate angle. Don't make it too sharp as you want to raise the metal, not cut it. I find I have much better control with this than the fancy tool, you can work the entire dovetail, or fine tune one side at a time.
(https://i.ibb.co/z49CwZL/PC292843.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sVxcrqD)
Tweek the dovetails till you have a good snug fit, and tap your sight in place with a scrap of wood or a brass punch. If you can see a hair of light under the sight, set the wood on top and wack it with your ball peen a couple times.
(https://i.ibb.co/FnhyMJ3/PC292844.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wYdPXCg)
(https://i.ibb.co/0McGmxq/PC292845.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SnP35zN)
I used a scrap of steel with the end filed smooth and hit with a hammer to set the raised steel down snugly on the sight instead of a punch, so as to not noticeably mark the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/dbk3CWm/PC292846.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pW4sV0h)
Curtis
-
....And now for the front sight. I promise to not get so wordy on this one. FYI, the rear dovetail was approx. forty thou, the front is about 30 thou.
Hacksawed:
(https://i.ibb.co/SvPrP6R/PC292847.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C0z2zwh)
Chiseling:
(https://i.ibb.co/gjPxKSk/PC292851.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HFxj8t5)
(https://i.ibb.co/wzJtFHq/PC292852.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P6Tkvpy)
Check for width:
(https://i.ibb.co/whmpjG8/PC292853.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k2Cqvbz)
Check depth and flatness:
(https://i.ibb.co/NLZ5GdS/PC292856.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hKDbTJf)
Cut the dovetails and check for fit. Cut a few strokes and check again. I always check from both sides, as invariably one side will start to fit before the other. On the front sight I usually wait until it will go just over halfway in with heavy finger pressure before I tap it in. As a side note, I usually take the very sharp point of the dovetail on the sight off with a few gentle strokes of a file, since the dovetail in the barrel won't be that sharp of a "V". Tap in with a wood scrap.
(https://i.ibb.co/cQqJVb6/PC292857.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0r5qvBC)
You're done! Have a tasty cold beverage. I usually leave some overhang on both sides of the sight until the rifle has been sighted in, in case you have to drift it to one side.
(https://i.ibb.co/3MD42xT/PC292862.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tx7Qg0H)
One thing I should mention here... the last rifle I made, I put the rear sight in front of the balance point, and the front site where I thought it looked good. After filing most of the front sight off during sight in, and still shooting low, I had to make a new set of sights with a taller rear sight. On this rifle I located the sights where they appeared to be on the original gun (from photos), then adjusted them back and forth slightly so they were near the same height from the center of the barrel, with the front sight about 1/32 lower than the front. This was done by eyeball and a tape measure, so I will have to let you know how it works out in the end.
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I wanted to do some coning of the inside of the touch hole on this rifle, and since I did not have an appropriate tool for this I decided to make one. For this design I will drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the stock. The easiest way I have found to be centered with a piece of round stock is to chuck the stock into my drill press, lower the stock to vice level and move the back edge of the vice so it is touching the stock. Tighten the jaw and release the stock from the chuck. It may not be perfect but probably better than I get by manually locating, center punching, and trying to line up the drill with the punch mark. I then use an appropriate center drill to start the hole.
(https://i.ibb.co/7bPd7s9/PC312865.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zNpTKqk)
I started with the broken end of a 1/4" file left over from another project and heated it cherry red and let it cool in order to anneal it.
(https://i.ibb.co/HY2YC0s/PC312869.jpg) (https://ibb.co/82B2bJp)
I placed it in the vice, using the edge of the vice as a guide to keep it straight up and down, and filed the broken end flat.
(https://i.ibb.co/xXNH0cj/PC312870.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7jq45TW)
My battery was low in the camera so I missed a couple pics, which I will attempt describe. I drilled a 1/16th hole in the file about 5/16ths deep or so. The file end was then chucked in the drill and spun, and using a file I cut a taper to make a cone an precisely whatever angle it came out as. You can control the taper to approximate any angle you need for your purpose. I then put the file piece in the top edge of the vice sideways with the cone end hanging out, and cut teeth into it with a three cornered file, starting the cut with two unaltered edges of the file with one edge 90 degrees , then once the cut was started I put a safe edge against the face of the cut and made it deeper. I started by cutting the four quadrants, then made random spaced cuts to fill the gaps in a similar matter. Using a black marker on the cone will help you to see when you have reached the edge of the adjacent tooth. You want it to end up sharp, without a "flat" spot on top of a tooth. I found I had to use some magnification to see what I was doing. If random patterns make for less chatter then this should cut smooth as glass!
(https://i.ibb.co/C5VLMHW/PC312871.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDwd8RL)
I cut it off about a quarter inch or less from the base of the cone.
(https://i.ibb.co/BTd5HwV/PC312872.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F8NLknb)
I cut a slot in the base with a hacksaw, much like a screw slot centered on the hole, and widened it to 1/16th inch with a file. Here it is with a length of test wire bent at 90 degrees to engage half the slot.
(https://i.ibb.co/xYk82gM/PC312874.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zFMHm2S)
I heated and quenched the tool in light oil while on the wire, then drew it back to almost straw. I chucked it in a hand drill and tested it on a barrel scrap inside and out for proof of concept. It cut!
(https://i.ibb.co/ZG2DN13/PC312875.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wBcmYrT)
(https://i.ibb.co/WydFP2p/PC312876.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2tLPskY)
I then took a bit of 1/16th drill rod, bent the end to 90o, used a scrap of brass with a hole in it to protect the cutter and tapped the bent portion into the slot and filed it flush to both faces.
(https://i.ibb.co/cc3Lj57/PC312877.jpg) (https://ibb.co/27hNT2f)
(https://i.ibb.co/5ndCqRj/PC312878.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8dJGF7x)
(https://i.ibb.co/cwMj4kV/PC312879.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZSt0qG7)
Then I cut the drill rod shorter. It looks a bit crooked in the photo but it is an optical illusion.
(https://i.ibb.co/q5X3WVD/PC312880.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FVNL0Ch)
I have an special idea in my head for the touch hole in this rifle, but will keep that to myself for now. :P I decided I may need a larger cutter as well, so I made another using the same technique with some 1/4" drill rod. This was oil, air and water hardening rod so I quenched it it oil bud did not draw a temper. It cut well the way is was without any signs of chipping so I left it alone.
(https://i.ibb.co/KzkNcBy/PC312881.jpg) (https://ibb.co/84pznG8)
I considered using a threaded rod for the tools however decided it would just make things more complex.
Hope someone finds this useful!
Curtis
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Curtis,
that is awesome work creating your own tools. I love it.
I gotta ask, how is it that you get that coning tool inside the barrel with the small wire through the touch-hole and in the screw slot in the back of the coning jig?
I know Tom Snyder has a tool that he makes that is threaded for that purpose.
Will you cut the wire short enough that it will fit into the barrel attached to the coning jig, and then go through the touch-hole from the inside?
Happy New Year!
Norm
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Hey Norm! Great questions. I typed a reply last night before I went to bed but apparently forgot to hit the "post" button. >:( It must have been past my bedtime already.... and I swear I only had a couple New Year's libations!
A threaded tool would possibly superior to the method I used, especially for a small bore or a thick walled barrel. The drill rod I have doesn't tap or thread worth a darn, it wants to gall and chip badly and is no good for those purposes. An advantage of the method I used is you don't need a 1/16th inch tap and dye. The tool bodies could be made even shorter than these I did here, if necessary. Also, if you cut the teeth backwards, you can still us the tool with out it unscrewing itself. If you look closely at the tools you can see I filed the teeth in opposite directions on the two tools - when using the one made with the file I have to crank my drill backwards. Yep, that was an boo-boo I corrected on the second tool, but not a real problem the way these are made.
I was able to maneuver the tool and test wire into the hole on the .50 cal barrel scrap and had enough wire exposed to chuck into my hand drill and cut from the inside. My barrel on the #43 is .58 caliber with a standard wall thickness, so there will be more room inside to work with. I'll be starting with a larger hole than 1/16th which will allow more wiggle room - that will be explained later when I post the touch hole process.
Hope I answered your questions.
Curtis
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Curtis,
that is awesome work creating your own tools. I love it.
I gotta ask, how is it that you get that coning tool inside the barrel with the small wire through the touch-hole and in the screw slot in the back of the coning jig?
Happy New Year!
Norm
Norm,
I do not want to rob Curtis' thread so hopefully this posting will be seen in the spirit of education. I made my own internal coning tool a couple of years ago and recently broke down and made one for member of the ALR. My cutter is basically the same as Curtis' but made from O-1 tool steel vs. a piece of file. I do like the file idea and if I ever need to make a replacement might use a piece of file. Since I share Curtis' sentiments about threading "small" drill or piano wire", the biggest difference in my cutter is that I attach the cutter to the shaft using a 6-40 set screw. The set screw also allows me a means to hold the cutter with an allen wrench while I snake the shaft through the hole in the barrel and into the cutter.
Curtis, Keep up the good work. I love reading your thread. I really enjoy your ingenuity on solving the little hurdles you encounter.
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Curtis, David,
That all makes sense. It was difficult to get a sense of scale in the photos and I guessed it might be small enough to go in as a single unit.
Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
Norm
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Dave, thanks for adding your comments, for me this is all about education and information sharing. Now it's my turn to call you a genius! For some reason I hadn't thought of a set screw, if I experience any issues in use I will have to add one. Do you file a small flat spot on the shaft where the screw contacts it? Or does the set screw hold just fine without one?
Norm. the shafts in the photos haven't been trimmed to length yet so I can understand why they appear they would not fit in the barrel - they won't! They were left long and taped together so I don't lose them in the drawer. I will cut them so they just barely fit for, maximum length, just before using them. If you were to make one for anything smaller than a .50 cal I would suggest a set screw like Dave uses.
Curtis
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Dave, thanks for adding your comments, for me this is all about education and information sharing. Now it's my turn to call you a genius! For some reason I hadn't thought of a set screw, if I experience any issues in use I will have to add one. Do you file a small flat spot on the shaft where the screw contacts it? Or does the set screw hold just fine without one?
Curtis, You are correct that I grind a small flat into the shaft. The main reason for this is because you have to shorten up the set screw to where it is just barely longer than the length of the hex key, so when you do this you remove all the teeth that were on the original length set screw. The original cutter would do a .45 caliber barrel. After rounding the back side a bit I could do a .40 caliber barrel.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi66.tinypic.com%2F1418mk8.jpg&hash=da10bf16c3464595c2068fc12476d5725446a5d0)
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Beautiful work, Dave! Thanks for posting the pic and explanation, that pic is worth probably 2000 words. You do most excellent work, I must say. Gotta say information sharing rules once again!
Curtis
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RCA #43 has a gold touch hole that is believed to be original to the rifle, and I wanted to reproduce it for my gun. Doing so was probably one of the most tedious and stressful tasks accomplished so far on this rifle, as most of the process was new to me. The gold touch hole is essentially a high dollar rivet with a hole in the center. :) I created a couple of special tools along the way to overcome some of the problems associated with riveting through a barrel wall, and did some smelting and casting. I'll try to explain how it was done with the help of a few photos.
The first order of business was to drill a 3/16" hole in the barrel, then counter sink the outside to 1/4" diameter.
(https://i.ibb.co/fxQfBpQ/P1032900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71bP8Wb)
Then I used one of my home made tools from the previous post with a hand crank drill to create a counter sink on the inside of the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/PZpHbqp/P1032893.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Using a gouge I dug a pit into some fireplace liner material, cut up my 14k gold, put it in the the recess and melted it into a lump. A firebrick could be used in a similar manner. I got this material about 15 years ago from a friend who used to sell gas fireplaces, thinking it would be useful for something.
(https://i.ibb.co/wc3XQyc/P1032906.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0s8S9qs)
(https://i.ibb.co/pyYVPNP/P1032908.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M6FwhKh)
(https://i.ibb.co/3ptSknZ/P1032910.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pfC4nSF)
I annealed the gold and forged it (pounded it) into a 16 sided cylinder shape, then hammered (extruded) it through a series of holes, each a drill size smaller than the previous one. After about 3 holes I stopped this process because I didn't like the way things were going.... probably because at this point I was still struggling with properly annealing the 14k gold.
(https://i.ibb.co/HrW4qkQ/P1032911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D7xWQSn)
So I decided to build a better mouse trap. I originally avoided trying to cast the plug because I have no crucible or casting sand. Then I thought maybe I could use the material at hand, and some gravity to do the casting work for me. So I drilled a 3/16" hole in my fireplace liner about 3/8" deep. ( I had to use a slightly smaller drill to get my hole to come out the proper size). Then I scooped another, shallower trench next to my hole, then used a v-parting tool to connect the trench and the hole. Here's a couple of pics to give perspective to the description:
(https://i.ibb.co/HGfKhPD/P1042912.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3S9TRFy)
(https://i.ibb.co/RHqC62z/P1042913.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C0fn9Bh)
I raised one end of the liner material with a scrap of 4x4, and placed a metal lid under the bottom end in case my gold made a run for it. I coated the gold with some homemade flux - approx. 95% borax, 5% washing soda and slog of methyl alcohol to make a slurry paste.
(https://i.ibb.co/hVdm2Rp/P1042914.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cQ8r2cz)
VIOLA! I love it when a plan actually works! The hole filled up and the remainder of the molten gold ran about halfway down the ramp before it froze into a lump. Now I had a plug I could work with. The plug was then annealed.
(https://i.ibb.co/HxnZb4P/P1042917.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yypg1Qd)
I drilled a 1/16" hole through the a block of steel, then a 3/16" hole in the steel a bit shorter than my plug (centered on the smaller hole), reamed it almost flat on the bottom, and used the same cutter that was used inside the barrel to cut a countersink. The gold plug was then inserted and beat on with a hammer and then a punch until it filled the countersink.
(https://i.ibb.co/hHWyKgY/P1042918.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xGjDM2F)
You can see what the 1/16th" hole was for. ;) The plug was quite stuck in the hole!
(https://i.ibb.co/nj8Y22p/P1042920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/894f33k)
(https://i.ibb.co/PxG1XWJ/P1042921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CBKVC94)
I made an angled punch to fit inside the barrel. The leg that fit in the barrel was drilled and tapped to accept 8-32 screws. I filed the heads of a couple different screws to different dome shapes to force the plug to completely fill my internal countersink. I moved it around the base of the plug, and varied the angle of the tool as I went, hammering until I was satisfied with the results.
(https://i.ibb.co/ysL7YRx/P1052928.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lp4HJPs)
(https://i.ibb.co/Vw8vKWV/P1052929.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nPSDWsr)
I took a gate hinge from my scrap box and cut a somewhat less than half round section, drilled a clearance hole and placed a cut off bolt with a nut and washer in it to create a jack-stand that fit inside the barrel for support of the gold rivet. I filed a rounded point on top of the bolt.
(https://i.ibb.co/tKr1sZS/P1032891.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBCP83p)
(https://i.ibb.co/fFxYZ64/P1032892.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W52W78g)
I crudely ground an old cheap wrench so it would fit inside the barrel, inserted the jack-stand, and screwed it up tightly against the bottom of the rivet. I forgot to snap a photo of the jack in the barrel...
(https://i.ibb.co/p4dctVy/P1042923.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ygqtwvS)
Using various ball peen hammers, and also variety of flat and round faced punches, I hammered the gold until i filled the outside countersink. I checked the jack-stand frequently and tightened whenever the nut would turn some.
(https://i.ibb.co/nLWcCR6/P1042925.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RD50y7Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/D84W4xt/P1042924.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QC9Q92f)
(https://i.ibb.co/K5BHGT9/P1042926.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9pBjvQq)
Then I clamped the top of the plug in place and gave it a few more whacks on the inside to insure a tight fit everywhere.
(https://i.ibb.co/RyJ98Ln/P1052930.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hd9VZmv)
When satisfied, I ground a plug tap and ran it in to the shoulder to make sure my breech plug would fit back properly.
(https://i.ibb.co/gTc9WmS/P1052931.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XsGL5j7)
The outside of the rivet was filed flush with the barrel flat, then center was marked and punched:
(https://i.ibb.co/ygv8krM/P1052932.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nQdD1FV)
A 1/16th" hole was then drilled through the center of the rivet. Another coning tool was made using a 5/32" round file, inserted from the inside and an internal cone was cut in the rivet - carefully so as to not cut into the flange.
(https://i.ibb.co/SB2QJry/P1052934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2dw85Nh)
And it was finally finished! Yippee! That darn near flat wore me out.
(https://i.ibb.co/2snPjjW/P1052935.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P9m455F)
(https://i.ibb.co/vLYZnp7/P1052936.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HGdn86W)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis.
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Hi Guys!
Very nice Curtis!
Runar
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Great work Curtis! I especially like your inside staking tool.
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Fantastic work Curtis, I always learn something new reading your posts with their excellent photography. Much appreciated. Are you planning on bringing this piece to Bowling Green this year?
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Thanks guys! Dale, yes, it is my plan to bring it to Bowling Green this year, I would like to get some final critique from Jack, as well as anyone else willing to share their thoughts.
Curtis
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Okay Curtis,
that seriously made me jealous.
When you posted about coning the inside of the barrel, I thought about asking why you were doing that since the original had the gold liner. I thought you were going an entirely different direction.
Now I'm amazed and slightly close to saying I don't like you anymore!
As others have said before, your problem solving, and ability to craft tools from what is at hand in order to get the job done is remarkable.
Norm
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Norm, you just made me laugh out loud! I'll attempt bribe your friendship back with beer or two at the NMLRA seminar this June!
Curtis
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Curtis,
Sounds good, and I shall return in-kind for all you have taught me through this thread and last year.
If I may say, what it has done is inspire me to think more about what I am doing and how to accomplish a task. And, more importantly, to slow down and do it right.
Keep this thread going, I get the impression it is helping or inspiring a lot of people.
Cheers,
Norm
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Curtis
are you planning on being at Friendship for the June shoot with this rifle?
Hope so, I would like to put my finger prints all over it, have a Christian Springs rifle shooting contest and also have a beer.
Norm, if you are going to be there would like to meet you as well.
Fleener
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Curtis
are you planning on being at Friendship for the June shoot with this rifle?
Hope so, I would like to put my finger prints all over it, have a Christian Springs rifle shooting contest and also have a beer.
Norm, if you are going to be there would like to meet you as well.
Fleener
Fleener,
I'd love to go to friendship and meet you there! I think I won't make it this year. I struggle to get enough days off of a regular work schedule to make the WKU seminar. Someday, when I'm clever enough to retire early like Curtis, I might just be able to do all the Longrifle events!
You may have guessed from the thread that I am also building a Christian's Spring rifle. I'm also doing #43 out of RCA. However, my skills are nothing like what Curtis possesses, but man, I like those early guns!! Mine wont be ready for probably another year or so. It has sat in my closet since WKU last year. I'm hoping to finish up my Isaac Haines, and then get some work done on #43 prior to class this year.
All the best,
Norm
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Norm
I dont have the skills that Curtis or I am sure that you do to build a CS rifle. So, I did what I had to do and commissioned Mitch Yates to build one for me. Mitch is working on my rifle at this time and I am very much looking forward to getting it.
I plan on using it at Friendship this June.
Too bad we could not hookup at Friendship.
Fleener
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Norm, I can't say I have any more skills than the next guy- I just get inspired by the new McGyver show and the old re-runs that have popped up since the new show started airing, lol. Seriously though, I do enjoy trying to figure out how to get things done with what I have laying around the shop.
Snapper, Not sure yet but I may make it to Friendship again this year. If I do I'll bring the rifle along so you can put your sweaty fingers all over it. If we shoot it can I paint the front sight orange? 8)
Curtis
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Not only do you have mad skills at rifle building, your photography and tutorial is outstanding! Thank you so much for the effort it not only took to build this rifle but to document it's progress.
A couple of times I've thought "Why go to all that trouble", but it dawned on me. How would you build one back then if you couldn't get parts from TOTW, or some such place.
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. An heirloom to be sure!
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Well, I hope you can make it. Would love to shoot the woods walk with you and TOF again this year.
With a rifle like that you can paint the front sight any color you want.
fleener
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Would love to shoot the woods walk with you and TOF again this year.
If we do, I might bring a rifle that will actually shoot this time.
Norm, I can't say I have any more skills than the next guy
Actually, you do. Manual skills are fine and many even lack those. What sets you apart are your visualization and problem solving skills and a can-do attitude. When I first saw this tall, grinning goober stride into camp shod in his suede Minnetonka mocs, I remember thinking, "Geez, here's another one." You've come far, Pilgrim and given your age, you still have the potential to become one of the great builders!!
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Thanks Squirrel, as I have said before it's comments like yours that make the effort worth while.
TOF, You were there for me to answer questions when I built my first rifle, as well as any I have asked since. It's folks like you that have helped me along by sharing information these past few years. You've done a lot to help me along. Even if you are an old curmudgean. :P
BTW, If you need to borrow a gun that actually fires, give me a holler and I'll try to fix you up. I'll be more than happy to loan you those mocs as well....
Curtis
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Wonderful and clever stuff Curtis and THANKS very much for taking time to photograph and share!!!
John H
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This is a very interesting and informative thread. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and explain in such detail.
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JRB and E. Smith,
I'm very happy to hear you are getting some good from the thread! Thanks for your comments.
My wife and I have been traveling in the southwest for the past couple of week plus. We made it home this evening. and hopefully I will get the opportunity to make it back to the shop in the next few days and have some more to post.
Curtis
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Today I began to carve the rifle. This will be my first rifle with relief carving, and it has been a couple of years since I did an incised Bucks County rifle. In order to ease into the task, I am starting with (in my opinion) the easiest part, the forestock molding. I drew most of the planned carving on the stock before my trip so I would see it with fresh eyes when I returned. It took me two or three days to draw out my carving lines, and I erased more than I kept. Years ago when I was a draftsman we had a saying: "Never draw more in the morning than you can erase in the afternoon." ;) Remember I am a novice at this, so this is again intended as information sharing and not as a tutorial. I developed a few techniques and tools for incised carving as I progressed on that rifle, and will use some of those here. Drawings may be modified anytime up to the point of carving...
I used a V-gouge to cut the drawn line on the fore stock. The photo shows only one hand, however I used two hands and a vigilant grip when incising the line, one on the handle and one gripping the shaft and resting on the stock. Kinda hard to photograph when it takes one hand to hold the camera.
(https://i.ibb.co/0BSFxwG/P1253301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k3f9tdS)
Then wood was removed on the high side of the cut to create the molding edge. It should be gently feathered and blended with the forestock above.
(https://i.ibb.co/ssKJrSL/P1263362.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3SpYHXt)
I had re-watched my Jack Brooks' Beginning Carving video before I started this morning and decided to grind a double bevel skew chisel from and old cast steel chisel to assist with such tasks.
(https://i.ibb.co/zfvcm6P/P1273380.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j4XK8J3)
(https://i.ibb.co/0F3W2yR/P1273376.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8dVRsgL)
The line needs to be cut with care, but if you have a bit a waiver do not despair, it can be straightened some with a triangular file or a checkering tool. I think this is called a liner, but don't hold me to that.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZX5BQRQ/P1253303.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SybtkDk)
(https://i.ibb.co/SDS1TNW/P1253305.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dsZ39B1)
Next I proceed to the transition area of the forestock. This rifle has a bit of a "knob" around the entry thimble as do most Christian's Spring rifles.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZcQ68Pb/P1253299.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gt0MTpc)
Proper size gouges would work well for this however I chose to stab in with a small tool made for wire inlay.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVFpHBV/P1253307.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1LPtsrL)
I had left the knob oversized so there is more background material to be removed in this area than usual - so I stabbed and cut deeper here.
(https://i.ibb.co/fGxNkcP/P1263360.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2YkMvbf)
(https://i.ibb.co/fQ0vV7r/P1263361.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wY6sZ1p)
(https://i.ibb.co/sySqnfb/P1263363.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gz1JN2m)
Next I jumped to the C-scroll on the patchbox side. I used a combination of gouges and a double bevel rounded chisel I had ground, to stab in the scroll. The rounded chisel can be stabbed and rolled along a curved or straight line. I have one of these and two single bevel rounded chisels of different sizes I made for the last rifle. Feel free to use the idea, just remember it comes with no warranty. ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/VLD2QVZ/P1263364.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WHFgPnw)
(https://i.ibb.co/x3Rsx86/P1263365.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d7zc8JD)
(https://i.ibb.co/b18BbmD/P1263366.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jh1MJfs)
Sometimes instead of stabbing a secondary cut I chase the stabbed line with a V-gouge. I find if you are careful the stabbed line helps guide the tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/xYxkP2f/P1263367.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zFqMjm7)
Here I am removing wood from the inside of the C-scroll.
(https://i.ibb.co/x38YYrB/P1273374.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wYr772P)
The accents off the C-scroll were stabbed with gouges.
(https://i.ibb.co/3W2sYYW/P1273377.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Mprh55p)
I roll-stabbed up to the leaf, and then stabbed the leaf with gouges. Background is then relieved.
(https://i.ibb.co/W3rmN1t/P1263369.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z53qWwJ)
I then roll-stabbed my way around the comb with a larger single bevel round chisel
(https://i.ibb.co/zmhBKjf/P1263370.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YN71vYj)
(https://i.ibb.co/WzJG2x2/P1273378.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QHwpKbK)
...and started to relieve the area below the molding with the double bevel skew chisel. The double bevel allows you to lever in or out of a cut from either direction, the skew helps slice through the grain.
(https://i.ibb.co/LRCdc5y/P1273379.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RbCTsyK)
That's it for a few days! Until then.....
Thanks for looking.
Curtis
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Beautiful work!
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Incised carving... My problem area. Please go into as much detail as possible!
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You may not call this a tutorial, but this is very comprehensive and really good stuff! I'm sure there are many of us that will vote for moving this thread to the tutorials when it's completed.
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very informative, nice work on both,the how to as well as the work itself.
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You may not call this a tutorial, but this is very comprehensive and really good stuff! I'm sure there are many of us that will vote for moving this thread to the tutorials when it's completed.
]x[ tutorial section vote.
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Curtis thanks for doing this. I'm all for this being a tutorial. To bad you didn't video all your work. Would be one CD that I would buy for sure!!! Thanks a million. Mike
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I used a V-gouge to cut the drawn line on the fore stock. The photo shows only one hand, however I used two hands and a vigilant grip when incising the line, one on the handle and one gripping the shaft and resting on the stock. Kinda hard to photograph when it takes one hand to hold the camera.
Maybe we can get the ALR members to chip in and buy you a go pro camera. ;D Keep up the great work Curtis. You are doing a wonderful job and I enjoy seeing how other builders perform the myriad of tasks involved in building a longrifle.
David
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Thanks guys! Oldtraveler, I would have to edit out a whole lot of head scratchin' scenes if I made a video. and at the pace I work it would be a snoozer for certain! Dave, I'll send you my address when you get enough cash in the go pro fund, lol.
Curtis
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Back again! Just wanted to mention something I forgot to say earlier - if you have never done any relief carving before, A wiser man than I would be well served by practicing with one of Jim Kibler's excellent carving kits and/ or scraps of stock wood instead of a rifle you spent months working on. Even better enroll in a carving class at the NMLRA Gunsmithing seminar or one of the other fine places that teaches gun building classes. I have to confess I may be a bit of an adrenaline junky, but learning to carve in this fashion pushes my adrenaline dosage to the limits! :o I will most certainly take a carving class when I get the chance.
Most of the photos should be self explanatory so I won't include a lot of comments unless I encountered a particular problem, or have a special tool to discuss. That being said, if anyone has a question I'll do my best to answer it.
I left off working on the molding around the comb, next I cut a secondary molding line on the forestock using a small v-gouge by Dembart. They call it a viener. I purchased this on advice from TOF and have never regretted it, and have seen Taylor demonstrate using one with excellent results as well (via postings).
(https://i.ibb.co/3dwDrY5/P1303290.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zx1ynHW)
(https://i.ibb.co/nk16X54/P1303292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h8dLGtr)
Now the other side of the entry pipe molding:
(https://i.ibb.co/yg6XJ6f/P1283383.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p4fxpf0)
(https://i.ibb.co/9cWqZ1s/P1283384.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xX6MFBJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/RD4MxhC/P1283385.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mcFYLvH)
(https://i.ibb.co/74kdwhx/P1283386.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q5J3t6L)
(https://i.ibb.co/xXgkdwd/P1283388.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LYgFHBH)
This is the purpose the single bevel tools I use for roll-stabbing were originally made for, cleaning up carving background. The tool was featured in one of Jack Brooks "Ask the Master" columns in Muzzleblasts magazine about ten years or so ago. If sharp it serves well for that function, being less grain sensitive than a chisel in my opinion. I ground two of different sizes several years ago, and a third smaller one yesterday. The double bevel tool was made after I found them useful for "roll stabbing" and is not good for cleaning background. The one below was ground from a vintage Stanley chisel. An old fasioned hand crank grinder is great for this type of grinding, as you can remove a lot of steel quickly without overheating the steel. I have three of them of different sizes that were purchased at swap meets and such for ten to twenty bucks apiece, all with good stones.
(https://i.ibb.co/x3TGwqK/P1283389.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8XZ2Ggn)
(https://i.ibb.co/9ZmK3Hp/P1283390.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MByw5kg)
(https://i.ibb.co/J3HzYDb/P1283391.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LN1CTVq)
(https://i.ibb.co/N7Fh0bm/P1283392.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cxy5WVC)
Using the next size smaller. These are great for working up to curved surfaces:
(https://i.ibb.co/2vbXpSL/P1283393.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v3t2Mhr)
(https://i.ibb.co/gv4n83x/P1283394.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KNK1gXJ)
And the latest, smallest one, ground from a rusty pitted relic that now has a new life!
(https://i.ibb.co/2qxXSrK/P1293414.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Nx5wrqY)
(https://i.ibb.co/4mQ2KvW/P1293415.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JBhqm6n)
(https://i.ibb.co/vZcP5QD/P1293416.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qkDsGWx)
Checking level, more to go:
(https://i.ibb.co/ySH563s/P1283395.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zJqbXkf)
Now for the entry design.
(https://i.ibb.co/Kh8NYDc/P1283396.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V9kHdx0)
(https://i.ibb.co/F8TKftn/P1283397.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mhWGY7S)
(https://i.ibb.co/kyz134B/P1283398.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3sVzfpd)
(https://i.ibb.co/Pc44tT7/P1283399.jpg) (https://ibb.co/St00JQh)
(https://i.ibb.co/QF8HhvF/P1283400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sv51c9v)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZTTFnHY/P1283401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PCCP7T9)
This little tool was made from a small screwdriver for inletting objects with a tight radius. It works well for carving also, here I am going a bit deeper around a previously stabbed element.
(https://i.ibb.co/GWdxY3g/P1283403.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m9RDZFQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/h1SWM3z/P1283404.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wrfWL5m)
(https://i.ibb.co/vQsYbSS/P1293408.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jWVRdSS)
Another example of how a raking light can help you see imperfections. All I did here was re-position my lamp.
(https://i.ibb.co/PtKqHNr/P1283406.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g6NkK3r)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zd1ZNnc/P1283407.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Nxn478W)
Doing a little cleanup with a tool that Acer posted here once, it is a flat scraper made from a cheep Chinese chisel. The tip is ground flat and pushed flat to make a very clean scrape. Not so good for curved surfaces, but can be used there with some caution. I ground the handle flat on the bottom to help with the desired angle. These Harbor Freight chisels are actually pretty good steel and are great for making special tools from.
(https://i.ibb.co/ScX0p2M/P1293409.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dt06ySV)
(https://i.ibb.co/q5pVJZL/P1293411.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3zcQRJ5)
(https://i.ibb.co/pbfVWgQ/P1293412.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S5tYQ2c)
(https://i.ibb.co/0nq2h4z/P1293413.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FWtPv0)
Trying to keep things around 1/32", almost there.
(https://i.ibb.co/FqMv4zL/P1293420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JF4LjHw)
Starting to do some modeling:
(https://i.ibb.co/rdmzcqL/P1293417.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Drtv8m6)
(https://i.ibb.co/HrmdCyG/P1293422.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nDhCByQ)
Small viener made from drill rod. I filed a flat spot on one side, used a small round file to shape the inside curve, then hardened and sharpened it.
(https://i.ibb.co/mv16DFF/P1293423.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PT3wmzz)
Modeling some more.... you MUST be very mindful of the grain for such small cuts, and magnification does not hurt here at all.
In the first pic I am correcting a curve that didn't look right after the initial stab in.
(https://i.ibb.co/88RSdG2/P1293425.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x5cRfwG)
(https://i.ibb.co/KFg9x32/P1293426.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cD9Nh76)
(https://i.ibb.co/zrYgQNC/P1293427.jpg) (https://ibb.co/drqvj7X)
(https://i.ibb.co/hKtsS3t/P1293430.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sFMjZ8M)
(https://i.ibb.co/mc4Myr7/P1303294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bKX8vjn)
(https://i.ibb.co/prsNsQJ/P1313295.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qF4h4Ck)
Doing some modeling on the leaf on the butt. I had to cut from two directions because of the grain. If you even think you have a grain issue STOP and think it over.
(https://i.ibb.co/2jkGkBx/P1313299.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BgC0CRb)
(https://i.ibb.co/tH473Ym/P1313300.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FhKSn8x)
(https://i.ibb.co/kqpRrB5/P1313302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vLb7rqV)
Moving on to the side panels and a bit of the tang carving... used a combination of roll stabbing and stabbing with gouges here.
(https://i.ibb.co/bztBp45/P1313303.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ChL7xjK)
(https://i.ibb.co/njf4fcv/P1313304.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DQkmkCy)
(https://i.ibb.co/cbGVFJF/P1313305.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9wFSTnT)
(https://i.ibb.co/2cbvC8x/P1313306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xz41BmW)
(https://i.ibb.co/yQTBHCf/P1313307.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sVSJ84m)
(https://i.ibb.co/KjzxchQ/P1313309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C5sKp8X)
(https://i.ibb.co/wJp7kZg/P1313310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jxrq1Wt)
That's all I have for now. See ya soon I hope!
Curtis
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Thanks for this, Curtis! I'm really learning something about carving. For a lot of it, I'm applying palm to forehead, " why didn't I think of that?".
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Nice work Curtis,
Sure doesn't look to me like the first time you've carved a rifle.
You mentioned Jim Kibler's carving practice stock. I got one about a year ago, and will start work on it here shortly. I like the tools that you have made, I think I will do the same and see how they work for me on the practice stock.
Cheers,
Norm
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That's fantastic photo and narrative tutorial for someone like me who is just beginning. Thank you so much. I bookmarked this
for the future. Thanks again.
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Thanks Curtis - beautifully photographed - unless one actually sees this done, as you have shown us, realization of what is actually involved in relief and incised carving, escapes us mere mortals - well, this mortal at least.
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Thanks guys, your comments are truly appreciated!
Norm, I got to thinking, I actually have done a bit of relief carving on a rifle once. About eight years ago I was building a Tip Curtis precarve and did a bit of horribly non traditional carving on the tang. After posting it here and getting some input I made an attempt to fix it, maybe it improved a bit then. A week or so later I attended my first class at the NMLRA Gunsmithing Seminar. It's been sitting in the corner of the shop untouched since then. Gotta finish that gun someday, and fix a lot of problems when I do.
Curtis
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I have a few more progress pics to post. As I progress many of the pics will become somewhat repetitious so I will likely cut back a bit on the volume of photos posted.
When I returned to the shop this the morning the first thing I decided was to make a modification in the tang area, as it didn't look quite right to my eye - In photos of the original there seems to be a slight recurve in the molding behind the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/pyDx2ZS/P2013311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6BhmYbk)
(https://i.ibb.co/HYVqx5Q/P2013312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y5XqYHJ)
Stabbing around the tang carving:
(https://i.ibb.co/Hzw61t6/P2013313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7WMP8nP)
Using a crude shop made scraper to level background. This was made by simply forging out a piece of drill rod, bending 90o hardening and sharpening. Also I put a handle on it. The blade is somewhat convex which helps to avoid digging the corners in and creating more work. SO far all backgrounding has been done with edged tools and scraping.
(https://i.ibb.co/HPTRSr8/P2013317.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c8hRBNn)
(https://i.ibb.co/SQY4DHz/P2013318.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbfSKRj)
(https://i.ibb.co/YfGYYGT/P2013319.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p4pGGpr)
Moving on to the beaver tail background:
(https://i.ibb.co/Mh2X1PM/P2013320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ct1r9Vh)
(https://i.ibb.co/1bQWpB2/P2023325.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHfXxq4)
(https://i.ibb.co/PMcWxs9/P2023339.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jzywh9W)
A little cleanup on the tang carving:
(https://i.ibb.co/qFLjrXz/P2023324.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TqD2gpZ)
Penciling back in some modeling details, then cutting them in. All the "scoops" had to be approched from both ends because of grain runout.
(https://i.ibb.co/Kjchdxf/P2023326.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jv9fmkQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/TKb6dFG/P2023327.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HNx63ky)
Modeling the outline with a double beveled skew chisel. The height of the tang carving is less than 1/32" so it takes a steady hand with some magnification. I wore an Optivisor while modeling.
(https://i.ibb.co/CMwFF7q/P2023329.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VQL88Sd)
Single bevel skew:
(https://i.ibb.co/bvhP9BF/P2023330.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Sy7rT2)
Running the Dembart v-gouge in a previously stabbed arc.
(https://i.ibb.co/56jpV02/P2023331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jTw0FNH)
Same tool used for decorative cross hatched elements:
(https://i.ibb.co/wSgd3yx/P2023333.jpg) (https://ibb.co/48tF9W5)
(https://i.ibb.co/CW6ThTN/P2023334.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHz1g1B)
Roll-stabbing part of front beaver tail. This tool can actually be slid along a pencil line where grain permits. Would that be called slide-stabbing? lol. With care it makes a clean continuous cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/WPNcG2J/P2023336.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P9s5F6H)
(https://i.ibb.co/9VW8sHZ/P2023337.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s6qmy9W)
Stabbing in the lower buttstock molding with a straight chisel:
(https://i.ibb.co/nD19zjc/P2023335.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCgmn1t)
I will have more after I make it back in the shop in a few days. Any questions, or constructive criticisms are always welcome!
Thanks for looking,
Curtis.
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Keep it up, Curtis! 8)
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Curtis,
Thank you so much for spending the time to document your build.
I am just beginning my first ever parts assembly and this is a great help for me.
I truly like the ideas you give for making your own tools. To me that seems almost as much fun as the carving itself.
This reminds me of when I was a young boy watching my Grandfather work in his shop. (Not calling you old... :o)
This is very inspiring, and I will definitely be following this very closely.
Thank you
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Good to hear from you Wayne and Wolfshead! And I'm not old, I just smell that way sometimes.... 8)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Time for another installment! I had mentioned earlier I would post some mistakes and what I did to fix them. Got one here to share.
On my entry pipe carving I had made a bad cut in a tight space, then another to try and fix it, and bad went to worse. I cleverly positioned tools over the mistake when I took a photo that showed it well. :P Here is what my boo-boo looks like without the camouflage. I finally got around to fixing it today.
(https://i.ibb.co/0t5Lghs/P2053300.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zm9rnW2)
To make a patch looks like it belongs, you need to carefully select a piece of wood that matches the grain structure and orientation of the area to be repaired. I used a similar tool to the one I made the mistake with to cut the repair wood. If your luck is better than mine perhaps you can find a good piece on the shop floor!
(https://i.ibb.co/sy4bjvY/P2063301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cD9kJcn)
In order to blend well you need a good fit that won't show any nasty glue lines. It need so fill the void - don't try to fill gaps underneath with glue. Showing a test fit:
(https://i.ibb.co/T2PZ898/P2063305.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KhVYqTq)
Use adequate and appropriate glue, but not too much.
(https://i.ibb.co/Zdcy2sC/P2063306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wypDcH1)
Then clamp in place. I used painter's masking tape here, started working elsewhere on the rifle and let is sit overnight.
(https://i.ibb.co/M8K6WfB/P2063307.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FscVNXH)
Then removed the bandaid. It's not too pretty now but things will get better:
(https://i.ibb.co/wMNWkRL/P2073331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/72JWfXz)
Now moving on... bringing the patch down to the stock surface by cutting, scraping, and whatever worked.
(https://i.ibb.co/124WFFh/P2073332.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Yd5QQz)
(https://i.ibb.co/KwFcy74/P2073333.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k1QVc0b)
(https://i.ibb.co/YZyHkL1/P2073340.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ySYHyQZ)
Almost there:
(https://i.ibb.co/0Xwx1ZB/P2073341.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FWPFcJs)
Re-draw some carving lines:
(https://i.ibb.co/MZgzhZc/P2073343.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VJLFNJg)
Then a little stabbing in:
(https://i.ibb.co/WyZdRBF/P2073345.jpg) (https://ibb.co/swnDXsQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/0q2Gd1B/P2073346.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NxCyHf1)
Some v-gouge work and cleanup with a eXacto knife:
(https://i.ibb.co/sg2Q5T4/P2073347.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10LKsCN)
(https://i.ibb.co/bvwzGsv/P2073348.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lgjnsxg)
Now I can draw my crosshatch design back in. I probably don't need to mention it, but for this type of design your lines need to appear parallel and straight or your end product will look like, well, doo-doo.
(https://i.ibb.co/W01wNc4/P2073350.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kJFfVhs)
The surface is curved here so the angle of the v-gouge will change during the cut. If you make light cuts initially you can do some minor correction when you deepen them, the operative word being "minor".
(https://i.ibb.co/pb6kThd/P2073351.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n6qKyPj)
Whew! Finished with the repair now. Not perfect, but definitely an improvement and should be unnoticeable when the stock is stained and finished.
(https://i.ibb.co/1J4Vtdv/P2073352.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tP1fTxm)
(https://i.ibb.co/0Drth9b/P2073354.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZLxmWgD)
Now back to relief carving!
Curtis
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After stamping in the butt molding, I back cut the wood and did some scraping with the flat nosed chisel.
(https://i.ibb.co/ynqXkxP/P2033290.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rpc96Jb)
Then filed a corresponding notch in the butt plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/HzdkZZf/P2033291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WytYCC4)
The secondary molding was drawn and cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/TKbGTbq/P2033292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dbLvcLJ)
Then the other side. I did a slide-stamp cut for both lines:
(https://i.ibb.co/VpyzMWd/P2063309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tPfvYMS)
(https://i.ibb.co/F3GmxnY/P2063314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2hXWn5M)
(https://i.ibb.co/LkFMzh0/P2063316.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tmGSMPH)
After stamping, the secondary molding was chased with a v-gouge.
(https://i.ibb.co/x5Wc4f2/P2063320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NY5k4mF)
Jumping to the lock moldings:
(https://i.ibb.co/s16j7x8/P2033293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kD9KZbN)
(https://i.ibb.co/x5jgGvG/P2053294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lptg6w6)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZW4BBrB/P2053296.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GcYWWDW)
(https://i.ibb.co/YX6VRJr/P2053298.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzS1mnd)
(https://i.ibb.co/mtQ0Q7J/P2053299.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfhBhSr)
I had to trim my cheek piece transition area some because it ran through my C-scroll. >:(
(https://i.ibb.co/GRNc839/P2013314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDsgQZz)
(https://i.ibb.co/P44WDk8/P2013316.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tcc2LR5)
Stabbing in the carving forward of the cheek using various tools and techniques.
(https://i.ibb.co/y5ZyKVM/P2063321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XpKs6Vd)
(https://i.ibb.co/0G47sSX/P2063322.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLdGPv0)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYTw94P/P2063323.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2W34yYP)
Relieving some background, then a few modeling cuts:
(https://i.ibb.co/gJmt27f/P2063325.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dDjkTcV)
(https://i.ibb.co/k5njhs7/P2063326.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5GDm5g0)
(https://i.ibb.co/T0Kw3wT/P2063328.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HPNK8K2)
(https://i.ibb.co/vXFbYqz/P2073362.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jJNdRf4)
Now starting behind the cheek. I changed the design a little before starting to cut, primarily tweaking based on what I have learned from previous carvings on this rifle.
(https://i.ibb.co/QHYvG7S/P2073356.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rp52JK8)
(https://i.ibb.co/yg5XJHd/P2073357.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jr2KPDm)
(https://i.ibb.co/sVy8Yp5/P2073359.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Js5DJWx)
Then it was quitting time before I knew it!
(https://i.ibb.co/WF4JNSN/P2073360.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jGPX979)
I'll post more when I finish up the carving.
Thanks for stopping by,
Curtis
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Maybe it's the picture, but the repair looks invisible to me. Well done.
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Nice work, Curtis!
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What repair! I .....don't ....see... nothin........! Oldtravler
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Very instructive. You don't spare the pictures or the info. That's what I like about this thread. Thank you for allowing us to follow you on this build. Looking forward to more.
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You fellers are way too kind, but thanks!
I had an offline conversation with a friend and mentor, and it came to light that I made an error in my cross hatching on the tang and entry pipe carving. I stated that the lines should be straight and parallel, and that is not the case. The lines in the design should somewhat follow the curved outline of the area, and the distance between lines may vary from top to bottom. Very few things are straight and parallel on the old guns! Here is one of the pics I had previously posted showing parallel lines:
(https://i.ibb.co/CW6ThTN/P2023334.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHz1g1B)
Next is a photo of an engraving practice plate that shows the lines curved more like they should be:
(https://i.ibb.co/w7WxB7b/P2093381.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
And here is a picture of a similar design on RCA #42, that shows the lines curved. RCA #43 likely had curved lines as well.
(https://i.ibb.co/RTnF0Qb/P2093383.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JjL17rt)
I though I should bring this detail up and point out my mistake so nobody ends up making the same mistake by following my example!
Curtis
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I have a few more progress photos of the carving to post. :)
(https://i.ibb.co/T48x111/P2083365.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pN9vvv)
(https://i.ibb.co/PQXNK4N/P2083367.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vYyHpmH)
Using a shop made tiny gouge here, forged out from a hex tool originally made for working on printers. It is good for cleaning up areas, stabbing, and of course gouging! I used a metal bar as a mandrel, hot forged it, ground it to refine the shape and then heat treated it.
(https://i.ibb.co/XxzTfPV/P2083374.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pj3p6Tn)
(https://i.ibb.co/0sZQj13/P2083375.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6XbNRG5)
(https://i.ibb.co/gF8HJH5/P2083368.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFK141L)
(https://i.ibb.co/YknQBgz/P2083370.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9TKgHPF)
(https://i.ibb.co/L095bCd/P2083371.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JcrQ0zj)
Removing yet more wood:
(https://i.ibb.co/jzcFTCJ/P2083377.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f9h723D)
(https://i.ibb.co/6mpkG5R/P2083379.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wRbf81N)
Stabbing some lines:
(https://i.ibb.co/r6fBt5f/P2083380.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QNjWcYj)
Small chisel made form a hobby knife blade, good for getting in those nooks and crannies:
(https://i.ibb.co/5Lb23Bg/P2093386.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CQRWyh3)
(https://i.ibb.co/fCHzDpR/P2093385.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzHw37L)
One of my best friends, an erasing template. It is useful for erasing lines without obliterating the ones you wish to keep.
(https://i.ibb.co/xmfLt6k/P2093387.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s56Rdqf)
Detailing cheek rest:
(https://i.ibb.co/qYdN5VP/P2093388.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hFyBfwt)
Some modeling:
(https://i.ibb.co/2Scj1Qk/P2103390.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8bPjLp7)
And now I'm finished with the cheek side... except for a bit of cleanup, and perhaps some tweaking.
(https://i.ibb.co/0ZZyz7z/P2103391.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bLL5G0G)
(https://i.ibb.co/58BndBc/P2103393.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xjJfyJ5)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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That looks really good, Curtis. I can't wait to see it with stain and finish on it.
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Very nice work. A pleasure to follow. Thanks.
Bob
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Thanks Guys! I hope this helps some folks to get in the shop and go for it, yet while not leading anyone astray! When I am in doubt about what to do next, I always think back to a class when Jack Brooks said to me.... get after it! IMHO making a mistake and having to fix it is two lessons learned, when taking no action because you are afraid - is NO lessons learned... and nothing gained!
Curtis
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very nice Curtis,learning a lot from this,thanks
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Thank you for documenting and sharing. I'm hoping to see more of your progress.
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Many thanks Joe S. and Foster!
I spent a little time altering the carving design for the patchbox lid, then set to making chips fly. Okay, maybe they didn't exactly fly off but I managed to cut some wood away at least. ::) Didn't take a whole lot of photos but will share what I have. I don't have a device for holding the box lid, so the lid was carved using the next best thing - the rifle itself. At first I used some tape to help keep the lid from moving, but found it was really unnecessary and eventually just removed it.
Here is the final drawing of the design:
(https://i.ibb.co/R4GDbLd/P2123289.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2Y0khXH)
Doing some stabbing and carving:
(https://i.ibb.co/3sr8WGx/P2133290.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j56xGBC)
(https://i.ibb.co/YPF82pN/P2133291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DzHk451)
(https://i.ibb.co/Pgcw4h8/P2133292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DQ95kCn)
(https://i.ibb.co/3chNng7/P2133293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PgChdqN)
(https://i.ibb.co/308JJ8m/P2133294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sFDBBD9)
A variety of different sizes and shapes of gouges were employed to to scoop put the shell design and the ovals. I used numerous cuts from a plethora of different angles, removing small amounts of wood with most cuts. It takes a keen edge on the tools to make clean, smooth cuts.
The finished product:
(https://i.ibb.co/6tJQwFY/P2143295.jpg) (https://ibb.co/09V52rq)
(https://i.ibb.co/YRsS7rf/P2143296.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K0vgj1V)
(https://i.ibb.co/TWYS0Dp/P2143297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z6QY2Wj)
Thanks again for looking.
Curtis
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You continue to astound.
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I really like the recessed flower petals on the patchbox. Nice indeed.
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Thank you very much Singlemalt and Marcruger! Marc, those are not actually supposed to be flower petals, just my version of the shell-shape carving found on some patch boxes. Hope you still like it, lol!
Curtis
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There have been some other things going on the past few days, but I managed to get in the shop long enough to engrave a signature on the barrel. I practiced a couple times on a scrap of barrel before I started on this one. Naturally the steel cut quite differently on both barrels, and the rifle barrel fought me most of the way. Here is what I ended up with:
(https://i.ibb.co/FDnkVhn/P2153289.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d57sgf7)
(https://i.ibb.co/qY7cCdD/P2153291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5hGSk61)
A number of the early Moravian rifles have a bit of decorative filing at the muzzle that also provides a function similar to coning a the muzzle. Below is my rendition of the muzzle treatment and the steps that were taken.
First I drew a circle around the bore to serve as a boundary, and marked the center of each groove for a guide. I also made a pencil mark about a half inch down the bore for a reference to file to.
(https://i.ibb.co/f9jsLqB/P2163292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0KHxvm8)
I started each semi-circle with a 5/32" chainsaw file to establish a arc in the center of the groove, then completed the semi-circle with a 3/16" file. This rifle is a .58, so for a smaller caliber it may be appropriate to use a smaller file. The tip of both files was ground a bit to round of the corners, an then some masking tape was applied to prevent scratching the bore in case I got too rambunctious. ;)
(https://i.ibb.co/GF5Zn8Y/P2163294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8X7yNfv)
Once all the grooves were cut the lands must be rebated. They could be filed as well, however I decided that cutting a cone would probably provide to be more conducive to accuracy. I do not own a coning tool so I looked around the shop to see what could be found to improvise (MacGyver) one. I settled on a tool handle I had in a drawer. I purchased a number of these at five for a dollar in a flea market so it didn't cost to much to re-purpose.
(https://i.ibb.co/mtK8v4p/P2163296.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pZTyWdq)
The ferrule was cut off, the a slot was sawed into the handle.
(https://i.ibb.co/CWcdtJF/P2163297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/520D9YV)
A bit of emery cloth was inserted in the slot, staring with 120 grit and ending with 320. Once the desired cone was cut I moved on to 400 then 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. The tool was turned by hand with firm pressure, and the barrel was rotated in the vice every so often. The bore was frequently checked for consistency of material removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/BzLF1gn/P2163299.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xChd4MF)
(https://i.ibb.co/HxpJzWS/P2163300.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1dJSqDg)
The finished muzzle:
(https://i.ibb.co/NmjHrsV/P2163301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pRz9Qx0)
After that was complete I began to stain the stock with some aquafortis. Below is an after-blush photo.... it appears much browner in person than it does in the photo but this is the only one I took so it will have to do.
(https://i.ibb.co/8gSb0Cn/P2193302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3mLv735)
I'll post more when I have something else to show! Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Looking good! I've wanted to do a similar treatment on the muzzle. I think the Edward Marshall rifle has a ring engraved on the muzzle as well.
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Curtis , Very Nice Work!!! Thanks for showing!! Nathan
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Thanks Singlemalt and stephenson. Singlemalt, I have see photos of the Marshall rifle muzzle and it has rings engraved on it, however I have not seen any photos of #43 so I am on the fence on whether to put any on this rifle or not.
Curtis
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I forgot to ask, what finish are you planning to use on the stock?
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Singlemalt, I am using tung oil on the stock. I stained the stock with aqua fortis, blushed it then whiskered the stock with some fine steel wool and burnished with a grey scotch brite pad. I applied one coat of tung oil, then the next day rubbed on some Laurel Mountain maple stain, which will penetrate a thin coat of oil. I rubbed back some highlights with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper lubricated with tung oil. Then I re-applied some of the stain in areas I thought could use it.
(https://i.ibb.co/w6vy98g/P2223292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h8qsPr9)
I used some bone black and oil to highlight the carving details, applied with an artist's brush and rubbed off with my palm and /or fingers. Then I rubbed back some of the carving with 400 or 600 grit dry paper.
(https://i.ibb.co/N3jLwBm/P2233294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VNSvX4Q)
I don't know a whole lot about applying finish, but one trick worth passing on is the use of a soft tooth brush to clean out any excess oil from the carving and molding lines. I do this pretty quickly in each area after rubbing the oil as thin as it will go. It will help to keep your carving lines from filling up with finish. Clean the toothbrush well between uses! I chase the carving with the toothbrush with each coat of oil.
(https://i.ibb.co/k3Nz06g/P2223293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SQFH07X)
I'll post some more photos when I get all the coats of oil on it. Tomorrow I plan on charcoal bluing the barrel.
Curtis
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These vent pic or feather holders are a little bit late in the game, but I simply forgot to make and install the earlier! First I took a scrap of brass from my scrap can:
(https://i.ibb.co/YdSCtPt/P2203290.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2Mr9jWj)
Then filed it pretty much octagon:
(https://i.ibb.co/Gsr68xt/P2203291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3fP3jrM)
And continued to file it till it was round. Then I filed a flat on it to make a "D" shape. I bent an hammered the brass bar until I had an eye on one end, then silver soldered the eye closed. I used brass colored solder wire, it can be seen in the photo below.
(https://i.ibb.co/z56p4T1/P2243295.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5JmrPd)
After soldering:
(https://i.ibb.co/gz8Ss5g/P2243297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZWrBynT)
I then ran a drill bit through the eye, and started to clean them up with files. I have some more refinement to do bu there is what they look like at this point.
(https://i.ibb.co/kMmwjqY/P2243298.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CWPYgVx)
Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Just a small update - I have been conversing with a friend and I think the vent pic loops may actually be more like a staple, so I may have to change my designs accordingly when I find out for certain.
Here are a couple photos of the stock as it looks so far, I will add a coat or two of oil yet.
(https://i.ibb.co/ckdvmkn/P2253306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S5pxL5C)
(https://i.ibb.co/vcxSKsL/P2253315-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FZH5s4)
And below is a pic of the barrel emerging from the pipe after charcoal bluing today in a fire pit. The barrel is hanging overnight to cure and I will clean and oil it in the morning:
(https://i.ibb.co/GkZGg39/P2253301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4MbCBg2)
Curtis
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Hey Curtis,
nice work on the rifle!! Looking really good.
I thought the muzzle treatment was pretty cool to see, and frightening!
I wondered about the vent pick loops. Looked to me like both ends of the loop may go in to the stock, rather than just a single pin as you had started.
Also curious about the charcoal blueing on the barrel. I thought Jack suspected it was originally bright or fire blued. Was this a personal choice or do you have better information?
Again, great work, and I enjoyed watching it.
Cheers,
Norm
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Howdy Chowmi! Yes the muzzle treatment was pretty frightening to do, but really not too bad once you get into the rhythm. I have some feelers out and if I learn the original has rings I will likely add some to my muzzy. The charcoal blue is mainly a personal preference. A fire blue is pretty fragile and though a bright barrel would possibly be correct I wanted some contrast and durability for the rifle. If I were making a bench copy instead of an "inspired" copy I would go with what was suspected on the original. Glad to hear you are still enjoying the thread, it is probably getting boring for most folks! It's almost finished tho'!
Curtis
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Not boring for me... very very interesting actually. Every installment leaves me craving for the next episode! (y)
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Curtis
Do you have any fear that you might of messed with the accuracy of the barrel with the filing?
It would be interesting to of had a few groups shot with it before and after, just to see.
It does look good.
Thanks
Fleener
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Thanks for your post, Heavies, you just made my day! ;D
Snapper, that fear was in my head the entire time I was filing the muzzle! I took great care to not get into the lands of the rifling with the file, and to maintain consistency all around. I will be anxious to put it on paper and see how it shoots. I agree it would be great to have a before and after comparison. I could benefit from some of your highly developed shooting skill to help me sight it in!
Curtis
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My secret is to close my eyes and jerk the trigger.
Fleener
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Thanks for your post, Heavies, you just made my day! ;D
Snapper, that fear was in my head the entire time I was filing the muzzle! I took great care to not get into the lands of the rifling with the file, and to maintain consistency all around. I will be anxious to put it on paper and see how it shoots. I agree it would be great to have a before and after comparison. I could benefit from some of your highly developed shooting skill to help me sight it in!
Curtis
From what I have seen about loading undersize round balls patched with heavy materials it
appears that accuracy isn't at the top of the list anyhow. I was indoctrinated by Bill Large
who thought any barrel and load combination that wouldn't produce a 5 leaf clover or better
at 100 yards was a failure.
Bob Roller
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As I will paraphrase a well known individual. " Accurate rifles are the only interesting rifles" or something like that. Mr. Large had a good point. Thanks Mr. Roller. Mike
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My secret is to close my eyes and jerk the trigger.
That's not fair! You stole my secret!!
Norm
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Thanks for your post, Heavies, you just made my day! ;D
Snapper, that fear was in my head the entire time I was filing the muzzle! I took great care to not get into the lands of the rifling with the file, and to maintain consistency all around. I will be anxious to put it on paper and see how it shoots. I agree it would be great to have a before and after comparison. I could benefit from some of your highly developed shooting skill to help me sight it in!
Curtis
You are welcome and I can't wait to see this shoot!
On the muzzle treatment. I really like it and looks like it will load very easily. I had been thinking about this and coning of the barrel. I think that as long as the ending of the rifling is somewhat square and even, and the patch and ball disengages the rifling square, I don't think accuracy would be affected.
This rings true with other "target" rifles or any other accurate rifle guns.
I have a posting about patch types in the 'shooting' section. I was thinking that the sooner the patch can separate from the ball the better for accuracy. I wonder if this type of treatment to the barrel would help that action occur quicker? as the patch and ball leave the rifled portion of the barrel and transitions to the coned and filed area, the patch has room to be 'stripped' off the ball sooner. Well probably rambling now..
Very beautiful work, can't wait to see it shoot! :D
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Thanks for your comments fellers!
I am posting a few photos of the charcoal bluing process I used. It is a very simple process really, and this is the second barrel I have done this way. I won't go into a whole lot of detail as the process was previously posted here: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=31486.msg302146#msg302146 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=31486.msg302146#msg302146)
Two things were done a bit different this time around, the first is that the charcoal was heated in a pot for an hour or so in an effort the drive out any residual moisture, and I lengthened the time the barrel was in the fire. I'm not convinced drying the charcoal made any real difference. The charcoal granules were shaken and stirred frequently. The barrel was degreased inside and out in preparation for bluing.
(https://i.ibb.co/F49hQs6/P2253289.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xx9WnyX)
A couple inches of charcoal were poured in the pipe, and the bore of the barrel was filled with charcoal and plugged with a wad of newspaper. A open-ended cardboard tube was placed in the pipe to prevent scratching the barrel, and the barrel was slid down the tube. Charcoal was poured around the cardboard tube, and the tube was withdrawn a bit with each pour, keeping the barrel centered in the pipe. A steel plate was wired over the open in to act as a lid. A good length of heavy gauge wire was used as a handle:
(https://i.ibb.co/1vWsczN/P2253293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NVB1RTq)
(https://i.ibb.co/jgCY5Rs/P2253294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2gzr6NH)
Small parts were placed in a tin half full of charcoal, then the container was filled to the top and covered with a lid.
(https://i.ibb.co/7NK58BF/P2253295.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VpTZrb8)
The fire was started and when a good bed of coals formed, the pipe and tin were placed in a fire pit of suitable dimensions for the job.
(https://i.ibb.co/WxfpR3Z/P2253297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vwkvMBp)
(https://i.ibb.co/LptfkCX/P2253298.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfRwnST)
Wood was placed on top and I tried to keep an even fire going the entire length of the pipe for approximately 3 hours.
(https://i.ibb.co/9vSzHG2/P2253299.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3sQGmkW)
The tin and parts were removed from the fire and allowed to cool sufficiently to handle. The barrel and pipe will stay HOT a long time. When I set the pipe out of the fire it was hot enough to set the grass on fire, so be careful! I think they could be left in the charcoal overnight, but I was not that patient. ::)
Small parts and barrel as they appear after coming out of the charcoal:
(https://i.ibb.co/Sx8djg8/P2253300.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1n5dgN5)
(https://i.ibb.co/GkZGg39/P2253301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4MbCBg2)
I let the patina cure over night, the barrel was hung on a wire through the tang bolt hole in the shop. The barrel and parts were oiled with a heavy gun oil and left for a day.
Barrel before oiling:
(https://i.ibb.co/1q3vWHv/P2263333.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jMd6X76)
(https://i.ibb.co/6nVtxd4/P2263336.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0D89Swf)
Parts oiled and barrel after waxing:
(https://i.ibb.co/pwbrh2h/P2263330.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T2YqWcW)
(https://i.ibb.co/h28Zxnm/P2283347.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JrkyWbs)
(https://i.ibb.co/CvYfQSK/P2283352.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J2G9HSj)
The finished product may not be everyone's cup of tea, I kind of like the look. I may do the next barrel directly in the firepit and see how that turns out!
Well I did it again, typed a lot more than I set out to do! I'm almost done with applying finish to the stock and will try to get some photos of the assembled rifle in a day or two.
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I like the look, too, Curtis. I'm not convinced as to the historical accuracy of this treatment, but I'm not necessarily always a stickler for such things either. At any rate, I think it looks cool! I have a pipe I scrounged, and am looking forward to giving this a try. Great info and photos, thanks!
Ed
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Great job, Curtis. Placing the barrel directly in the coals yields a smooth midnight blue with some purple blotching where the heat was higher. I recommend pure hardwood charcoal available at most grocery and warehouse stores. Brands like the "Big Green Egg" and "Cowboy" charcoal work well. In the past, I've had the rear sight and barrel lugs installed before bluing. I skip the oil and slightly heat the blued barrel and apply wax. Here's one of my attempts. The finish is actually scale that will crack if your inlets aren't well done. Other than that, it's fairly sturdy.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv515%2FLSU_Tiger1%2FHPIM0906.jpg&hash=cdcb10a9a8b3aeaedc20db8592aca39e44bbbd8d) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/LSU_Tiger1/media/HPIM0906.jpg.html)
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Curtis
You have done super job explaining all your steps and photographing the build it will really help other builders
Great job
Across the river
Paul Horton
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Ed, don't quote me on this but I believe some barrels were thought to be charcoal blued - while on the other hand I am almost certain they would not have used the pipe method! Hope it works out for you when you try it, and give me a holler if you have any questions.
Singlemalt, that barrel looks great! I left the barrel lugs in but removed the sights. I considered leaving them in, just decided not to. did you use the charcoal in a pit to blue that?
Thanks Paul, I hope it does help someone out! How are things over there across the river these days?
Curtis
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Curtis, you could easily use a pit. I live in a subdivision and could see my neighbor, the yard fanatic/busybody causing trouble. A guy I used to work with had a brother in law who made a steel box for me out of scrap iron 6" X 6" X 5'. I build a fire in it and place the prepared barrel in it and cover with fresh coal. "Whatcha cookin'?" "Steel. 12L14." ;) :o
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"Whatcha cookin'?" "Steel. 12L14." ;) :o
Too funny! I'm fortunate, the only nosy neighbors I have here are the cows in the field next door! They seem to believe anything I tell them. BTW, you should send me a few pics of that rifle, I would like to see them.
Curtis
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I will be otherwise occupied for the next couple of weeks and won't be in the shop to finish things up, so I thought I would post a few pics of what I have so far. I need to add the feather loops and make a proper ramrod (old ramrod hanging around the shop used for the below photos). Still need to clean the oil off the brass furniture, sight it in, etc. I will post updates when I get everything finished.
Here is what I have for now:
(https://i.ibb.co/NmNrhT1/P3023290.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pRKQDhW)
(https://i.ibb.co/QHXhmg2/P3023291.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2M5RK9D)
(https://i.ibb.co/kJHyZM8/P3023292.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jz65tHM)
(https://i.ibb.co/9v04Ktf/P3023293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qn8gq54)
(https://i.ibb.co/Xz374Xw/P3023294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/br2s31f)
(https://i.ibb.co/XXCkTwW/P3023296.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p2Lrpm1)
(https://i.ibb.co/8z0qYDV/P3023297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tZ4gLM5)
(https://i.ibb.co/CVmvjtF/P3023298.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0YmZ0X3)
(https://i.ibb.co/xfw51ck/P3023301.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3MVhp83)
(https://i.ibb.co/LPgYgqJ/P3023302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1nX7Xpd)
(https://i.ibb.co/Tg5vNzF/P3023307-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71FY076)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y8C7Jk6/P3023308.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FJrbcw9)
(https://i.ibb.co/hW3rxxZ/P4273416.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DC0mPP8)
(https://i.ibb.co/SV3DBXQ/P4273417.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L9ZD1zQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/TWXMSk5/P4273426.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dm94qry)
(https://i.ibb.co/n8Qgt7F/P4273427.jpg) (https://ibb.co/93y8Sb7)
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Absolutely stunning.
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I love it. Send that beauty to me please. Seeing the progression of work makes it even extra special. The barrel finish came out just super. It'll be interesting to see how it shoots. :-) Best wishes Marc
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Really like this rifle. Beautiful. Thanks for taking us on this trip........Bob
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Curtis thank you very much. Outstanding job....! Sure hope this goes to the tutorial section. As I have never done a barrel this way. Does it affect the overall strength..? Thank you ...Mike
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Niiiiice!
Now quit sittin around... and get started on that next one. ;)
Great job,
Jeff
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Beautiful job Curtis.
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Fine looking rifle.
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Curtis
very nice. Hope you can make Friendship and we can shoot our CS rifles together on the woods walk. Perhaps TOF will have a rifle that he can shoot?
Fleener
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Sharp looking riflegun, Curtis! Thanks for the great thread as well!
Ed
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Nice work Curtis, looks great!
I hope you will bring it to WKU this year, I'd love to see it.
Cheers,
Norm
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Thanks for your your kind words, everybody. It has been a fun and exciting journey for me to say the least! I hope it encourages or inspires someone to building a gun.
Oldtraveler, I don't believe the barrel ever gets hot enough to harm or weaken the steel, and I haven't experienced any problems with the last barrel I did. Jack Brooks thinks that it charcoal bluing will anneal the barrel, I assume because it may relieve stresses in the metal? I am no metallurgist, so my opinion and 50 cents will get you a cup of cheap coffee! ;)
Snapper, I hope to see you there in Friendship and shoot the CS rifles together as well. Let's both bring an extra gun so TOF can participate after his gun refuses to fire.
Ed & Norm, I plan on bringing it to WKU, see y'all there!
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Your rifle turned out great!
I really like the colors that the charcoal bluing gave the barrel.
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Curtis, thank you so much for this tutorial! I haven't been on in several months and this was the third thread I opened. Spent all yesterday evening and my lunch time mesmerized by it! I will spend the njext couple of evenings finishing it. I haven't looked at the finished gun yet because I want to save that for last. Thanks for all the time and effort you put in to sharing this with us and for sharing your immense talent and knowledge. I'm signing off now to go down to work on the rifle I currently have on the bench. Will pick back up on this tonight.
Thanks again,
TC
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Curtis, very nicely done! See you at WKU.
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Thanks TC, hope you like it when you reach the end! ;) Can't say I have immense talent or knowledge just like to play around in the shop and figure it out as I go! Taking classes at the NMLRA gunsmithing seminar has been a big help.
See you there in Bowling Green, Homerifle!
Curtis
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I feel this thread had some unique and useful information in it, so I went through the whole thing and replaced all the photos - they were all missing due to the "Photobucket Fiasco". Hope someone new can get a bit of use from it!
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Good to visit your lovely work again. God Bless, Marc
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Excellent! Thank you!