AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Kmcmichael on November 18, 2021, 03:27:52 AM
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Has anyone used this? Opinions?
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Has anyone used this? Opinions?
For what purpose were you thinking of using it? What metal, what color?
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Black, I will be using it instead of rust browning a barrel and lock.
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(https://i.ibb.co/xYCt47B/E128-C867-873-C-41-C4-9-C62-60-ED686-D1481.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f91zcxy)
image upload (https://imgbb.com/)
I like the way it looks on this pic.
I have only rust browned barrel with the LMF stuff.
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Its the same principle as most cold blues like Birchwood Casey super blue etc. If durability isn’t a concern have at it. Otherwise a good rust bluing can be done at home with durable results.
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My vote is for Mark Lee Rust Blue -- it will last a lot longer ;)
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I have no complaints against the Laurel Mountain rust browning solution I have used on the last two guns. I would continue to use it if I did not like the color of this.
Im not sure rust browning helps prevent corrosion other than holding oil a little better. I don’t want to build the tank to rust blue. I would like to hear opinions on this if anyone has them.
I have only used cold blue on small places and never saw it turn out as well as this.
I am sort of on the fence about trying it.
This is the stock I am finishing and think the JAX might look better.
(https://i.ibb.co/HXx15HC/F7-BB7-F43-7773-4273-85-CC-D91-EC7-DF682-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHWBnrz)
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If you're asking about Jax brass black, I watched Jim Kibler use it on all of the metal (not brass) parts for a SMR kit he assembled at the last CLA show. I liked the results and bought some from him. He has also used Historic House Parts Brass Black which I have tried. He said the Jax is better.
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Yes, that is what I wanted the opinions on. Thanks.
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Hatch-jack, did Jim recommend anything to protect the metal after the application?
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I second Mark Lee Rust Blue.
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building a tank for rust bluing is easy. I use a length off metal gutter on my propane camp stove, works great.
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Here's my high-tech tank - a piece of galvanized fence post with an end cap sealed with high temp silicone gasket material and duct tape. Pour in distilled water and heat with a propane torch. Just finished this barrel today with Mark Lee's Rust Blue.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZXMBLf6/IMG-0703a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V9qgjLW)
(https://i.ibb.co/vw1x7Nz/IMG-0706a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDJCLnz)
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Hatch-jack, did Jim recommend anything to protect the metal after the application?
He did not sorry. I would oil it and use a good wax like Renaissance to protect it in damp or humid weather.
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If using a cold blue, I rub it in hard, refreshing the paste on the application pad of denim over and over and over again until I achieve a perfectly even 'finish'. Then rub it down under flowing cold water with clean pad of denim until all the 'solution' is gone, then dry with a towel then flush with WD40. Done.
Birchwood Casey's gun blue paste is what I like.
You could rub it back if you wanted, but it is fairly durable.
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Hatchet-Jack, Thanks for the reply. I have now emailed Jim asking this question. The reason I ask, is because I had a barrel do some rusting after using his earlier product. I’ve used it on three guns and this is the only one that rusted. Of the three, I think one was a Getz and the other two were Rice, it was one of the Rice that rusted and to be on honest, I don’t remember how I treated that barrel. I have used finish, wax and oil on different barrels and never had issues. I did clean it up, retreated it, oiled and so far no rust.
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Here's my high-tech tank - a piece of galvanized fence post with an end cap sealed with high temp silicone gasket material and duct tape. Pour in distilled water and heat with a propane torch. Just finished this barrel today with Mark Lee's Rust Blue.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZXMBLf6/IMG-0703a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V9qgjLW)
(https://i.ibb.co/vw1x7Nz/IMG-0706a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDJCLnz)
That is a nice finish!
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Hi,
JAX makes a lot of well respected patination chemicals for metals so I suspect their blacking is very good. I suspect like instant blues, it will work very fast. However, most of the rust bluing and browning solutions are also very good and can produce excellent results. A lot depends on the surface polish of the parts and the time intervals between carding. The examples below are just Wahkon Bay rust browning and bluing.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/qM2c85P/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5WJS3Ff)
(https://i.ibb.co/NxVgGTm/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BLzHYnr)
(https://i.ibb.co/4YrmbcS/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1dWvC3X)
(https://i.ibb.co/hf4n1jn/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fvyKG5K)
(https://i.ibb.co/QHyThqX/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FYRycfn)
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dave, would there be a possibility of you running through a tutorial on adding a spider sight like you show here? A new thread would be nice. Yours appears to be set into the barrel unlike what I’ve seen others do by just laying it on the surface. I saw Ron Ehlert add one years ago to a fowler barrel but not sure of the process anymore. I have one to do and think I know how but it would be nice to see one done by one with experience! I understand it would tough with pictures, unless your currently installing one, so just a write up would be helpful.