Author Topic: Stain options (Read 3293 times)

Plowboy · « **on:** May 02, 2021, 01:01:59 AM »

What stain will give a reddish tint on curly maple

smylee grouch · « **Reply #1 on:** May 02, 2021, 01:05:17 AM »

Each piece of wood can give different results so what ever you use, use it on some scraps from the same blank or in the barrel channel to test color.

Marcruger · « **Reply #2 on:** May 02, 2021, 03:35:08 AM »

I would suggest Aqua Fortis applied correctly and blushed. LMF Nut Brown stain from Jim Chambers adds the reds and is more colorfast than alcohol dyes. I hope this helps. The final beauty comes when you add the finish and the color pops out. Just sharing what has been shared with me. I am no expert.

Plowboy · « **Reply #3 on:** May 02, 2021, 05:08:06 PM »

Quote from: smylee grouch on May 02, 2021, 01:05:17 AM

Each piece of wood can give different results so what ever you use, use it on some scraps from the same blank or in the barrel channel to test color.

I understand different wood can have different results I need stain suggestions to start with

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #4 on:** May 02, 2021, 08:05:44 PM »

I agree with Marcruger except I would give it one or more treatments with tannic acid, blushed, before the aquafortis treatment. Good luck.

Hungry Horse

martin9 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 02, 2021, 08:42:02 PM »

homer danglers red/brown is what I use when I want more red.

Carper · « **Reply #6 on:** May 02, 2021, 10:13:17 PM »

If you get a chance check out my fb page. We took a piece of Curly maple and tried several different stains , combos and iron nitrate you can see them side by side. You might have to scroll down a few posts. Johnny Walker

mikeyfirelock · « **Reply #7 on:** May 02, 2021, 10:14:03 PM »

This is Laurel mountain forge Lancaster Maple followed with Laurel Mountain Forge Maple .

Plowboy · « **Reply #8 on:** May 03, 2021, 12:26:07 AM »

Quote from: Carper on May 02, 2021, 10:13:17 PM

If you get a chance check out my fb page. We took a piece of Curly maple and tried several different stains , combos and iron nitrate you can see them side by side. You might have to scroll down a few posts. Johnny Walker

thanks guys

Bob Gerard · « **Reply #9 on:** May 03, 2021, 03:48:21 AM »

I have used powdered dyes that I mix in a water base. Seems to really do nicely with Curly Maple.

Daryl · « **Reply #10 on:** May 03, 2021, 05:11:39 AM »

Nice plank, Bob. Really came out red. How does that finish stand up to UV?

Bob Gerard · « **Reply #11 on:** May 03, 2021, 02:32:14 PM »

I use Boiled Linseed Oil (many hand-rubbed applications) for my finish which does a wonderful job and makes the wood come alive. In years it will enhance the color as well (referencing a stock I did 32 years ago in this manner).
The color wouldn't be affected by UVL I built another LR about 30 years ago with the same dyed color method and BLO finish and it has has maintained it's rich color.

Dphariss · « **Reply #12 on:** May 03, 2021, 03:46:12 PM »

This is shop made Ferric Nitrate (NOT Aquafortis) with shop made "brown" varnish. BLO with extra driers and high grade rosin and food grade Gum Benzoin. Gums were dissolved in hot turpentine then hot oil was stirred in. It dries a little slower than I expected inside in winter but makes a nice finish. Suspect out in the sun it will dry to allow 2 coats a day. I added extra Japan Drier but no lead to this batch. Maple should not require many coats of oil. I have finished it with one coat of a heavy bodied oil varnish.

This is coat #2 still wet.
Aqua fortis is not what was used back in the day to stain stocks. The addition of hydorchloric acid to the mix is a huge mistake.
Dan

WadePatton · « **Reply #13 on:** May 03, 2021, 05:08:14 PM »

Ferric acetate is also used for staining. It varies. I was testing some and had two batches. The gray looking batch gave redder results and the reddish looking batch gave gray results. Dissolve iron/steel into vinegar is how it's made. Unlike AF it does not require a heat blush. Great luck nailing the color you want. With enough testing you can find something, folks use everything, and I tested lots chasing the color for that first one. I think it's something folks spend less time fretting over as they make more guns, but I get trying to get "just so" for any particular one.

If you search on here you should find about 10,087 recipes and formulas and methods discussed. I've read most all of 'em.

dogcatcher · « **Reply #14 on:** May 03, 2021, 07:26:52 PM »

Read this link, the first post and then the last post on a "how to do it". I used this on a small table top, it worked beautifully.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=61827.msg620770;topicseen#new

flehto · « **Reply #15 on:** May 04, 2021, 03:40:26 AM »

This stock was lightly stained W/ Dangler's dark brown and then a heavier coat of Dangler's reddish brown. The finish is of 2 coats each of 2 different finishes which yields a very low sheen w/o any addt'l work.....Fred

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #16 on:** May 04, 2021, 07:14:06 PM »

Quote from: Plowboy on May 02, 2021, 01:01:59 AM

What stain will give a reddish tint on curly maple

What have you tried?

Daryl · « **Reply #17 on:** May 05, 2021, 01:23:17 AM »

Fred- I really like the stems on those leaves.

A really nice finish, too.

Marcruger · « **Reply #18 on:** May 07, 2021, 07:57:04 PM »

The point in suggesting ferric nitrate or aqua fortis is that it will not fade with exposure to sunlight. Stains and dyes can. If you use a base of ferric nitrate or aqua fortis the base shade will remain even if the tinting dye fades.

flehto · « **Reply #19 on:** May 13, 2021, 03:07:45 PM »

Daryl....thanks for the kind words. The finish is composed of 2 coats of 2 different finishes and is very low sheen w/o any addt'l work......Fred

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Author Topic: Stain options (Read 3293 times)