forestock molding, key escutcheons, scratch stock, planning

[HighUintas]

Hi All,

I am going to cut some forestock molding and have a couple of questions.

My stock is mostly final shape, but needs refinement in a few areas like around the lock panel and some on the butt, but I don't think much more wood will come off.  I have have a few pieces of metal left to install; triggerguard (waiting to get it back), toeplate, key escutcheons. Even though the triggerguard will have to wait, I don't think it will be a detriment to complete these other tasks first.

For the forestock molding, I am wondering if it would be best to cut the molding first and then install the key escutcheons, or the other way around. The molding will have a bead running through the center of the key escutcheon area, so I would think that it would be best to inlet those after, right?

Also, I happened to be at woodcraft  a couple days ago and saw this scratchstock there. https://www.hocktools.com/products/sc075.html I figured for $30, it may be worth the time saved in attempting to make a scratch stock since I've not made one before. I decided to buy it and handle it a bit before deciding if I want ot keep it or not. Has anyone used this scratchstock before or do you think it would work ok for cutting a molding?

The molding I am going to cut is shown below. A bead with concave curve below.



Final question. In refining the stock shaping getting it ready to be scraped/sanded, how much wood do you leave above metal parts that you will end up removing in that scraping/sanding process? I want to make sure I've got plenty left so I don't end up with wood below metal.

[davec2]

Old post of mine (and the rest of the thread) that might be of some help.....

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=57657.msg576809#msg576809

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I have built two rifles in this century that have moulding lines cut in the forestock interrupted by the escutcheons, both using original rifles for the inspiration, and in spite of the criticism I got at Dixon's Gunmaker's Fayre judging.  In both cases, I inlet the escutcheons first and laid out and cut the moulding lines afterwards.  I think it would be difficult to finish the escutcheon plates having to work around the moulding...much easier to finish first.  I have never used a scratch block.
Here's my T. Allison Western PA rifle in .25 cal as an example...

[rich pierce]

Taylor, they had to dig up something to criticize. If I recall the rifle was all ribboned-up by the time you got out of there. 

[HighUintas]

I did find your link, Dave. I wish I had the means to make a tool such as your nifty brass cutter. I plan to use that simple bead marking tool for the butt stock line.

Taylor, I'm currently working on bending my escutcheons to match the curve of the forestock. One thing I thought of is that because I'm going to cut a flute into the lower portion that runs through the bottom of the escutcheon, I may need to cut that flute first and then finish bending my escutcheons to make the contour. Otherwise, I don't think I'd be able to file the escutcheon to match. I agree on finishing the escutcheon after the bead being cut in hard to do without messing up the bead. What about cutting the flute and bead, inletting the escutcheon, then removing the escutcheon to do most of the finishing?

I was hoping to cut the whole molding in one go, which is why I was thinking scratchstock. It seems very easy after making it. Also, I realized that commercial scratchstock is not the best for this purpose. I exchanged it for some cabinet scrapers, and watched a couple videos on making a scratchstock. I can probably make one in the time it took to go to the store!!

[Mark Elliott]

I made my own seen here: https://www.markelliottva.com/2016/02/cutting-mouldings/   Much simpler than Dave's.   I works well for forearm moulding.

[john bohan]

High Unitas,look on the log cabin shop web site. They have a pic of a scratch stock  that is out of stock, you can make one easily from the pic. for the blade use something like a piece of steel from an old saw blade. all you need is some time and a couple files.

[Eric Krewson]

I am almost ashamed to show this cutter, it rides in the ramrod groove and is really simple but it works. I think I made it when I was tinkering around on my first build, it does take some riffler file work to complete the molding.

[flatsguide]

Here’s my down and dirty scratch tool and the results...just take your time and try not to hog off too much wood at a time
Richard

[HighUintas]

Thanks for all the pictures everyone. Eric, I think you're scratch stock design is a pretty good idea!

I decided to install the discussions first and then cut in the molding per Taylor's advice, and I am glad I did! I haven't cut the molding yet, but after making all these escutcheons s and bending them to match the contour, and in letting them and filing them flush, I can't imagine trying to file them flush with molding already there and I am certain I would not be able to finish the piece is first and in let them perfectly to wear filing wouldn't be needed.

I will have to do some thinking about how I will approach the flute in the molding where it's would meet
the escutcheons.