Of course, I have some comments and observations. Dan's 16 bore is a shooter, that's for sure. IT also likes to be fed a big meal and due to this, is a wonderful big game rifle. I do wish I could shoot a large bore flinter this well - maybe some day.
- G. Hansen- about shooting balls from a jug choke. Once, I built up a .44 smoothbore using a piece of 'seemless' Shelby Tubing for the barrel. It had a nicely polished bore, octagonal at 7/8" across the flats. I jugged the bore about .006" over 3", 1" from the muzzle and it shot splendidly with shot- nice beautiful patterns with up to 3/4oz shot. Broke 10 straight from 16 yards at one rondy, winning the event. Of course, the 12 and 10 bore doubles with their choked bores should have won - didn't. At that time, many years ago, there were no 20 bore fusils or trade guns on the range. As to shooting RB's, it shot well enough to stay on a snowshoe hare's head off the bags and pretty much did just that shooting offhand when hunting. The odd miss might have been me or the gun - who cares? It was a killer with round balls. Nowadays, people jug-choke much more deeply than that, calling them full chokes. modified, etc. Round Ball has a 20 bore barrel on one of his TC's that is jugged deeply, and he says it shoots well with patched round balls and does well with the heavy shot loads he uses in it. I don't see a problem shooting patched RB's from a jug choke. As with any pelter, results will vary depending on the load development.
Dan's thick wad, vs. no wad shooting in the 16 bore rifle shows what I found with the smaller bores - it reduced accuracy. In my 14 bore rifle, a .020 (thin) hard card didn't hurt accuracy, but did in the .40 and .45 cal. rifles I tried it in. I wanted to test the thin hard card as a powder/patched ball separator. I didn't try thick wads and if Dan's testing is indicative of their shooting, I'm glad I didn't. I was disappointed at the loss of accuracy in the small bore rifles with just the thin wad. Of course, as rifles are wont to do, results differ gun to gun - maybe the thick wad would have been better. When I say the results were worse with the wads, I'm talking about enlarging groups from under 1' to just about 1 1/2". They'd still do for hunting, of course. Chronographed velocities were the same, wad or no wad. What I did find interesting in the .45, was that the shorter 200gr. REAL bullet, grooves filled with Lyman's Black Powder Gold lube, shot to the sights at 50 yards using 80gr. 2F. I lubed the bullets in a Lyman 450 lube sizer, bumping them to .452" so they'd engrave well upon loading. Loading was easy. I fired off 20 or so of them, then went back to shooting round balls without having to wipe the bore - no velocity loss and right into the same group. Neil's testing of them on mule deer gave excellent results, but really no improvement over patched round balls.
Oh yeah- smoothbore accuracy. What many have found, is that the gun will shoot to one side or the other, consistently. To 'fix' this side shooting, some put up with it and 'hold' in some windage, while others like Taylor, simply bend the barrel to make it shoot straight to the centre flat of the breech. Too, if it shoots high or low, bending will remedy this too. He uses a handy tree, while others get more scientific in their approach to bending the barrel - lead hammers and shot bags, that sort of thing. The trees are handy on the range.- shoot, take the barrel off and thump a tree, barrel back on and test- all In a matter of minutes. Repeat if necessary.