Author Topic: Lye to stain Cherry  (Read 24541 times)

Online D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Lye to stain Cherry
« Reply #50 on: August 20, 2013, 06:48:01 PM »
Yes Eric, I use only AF on maple now - no overcoating at all.  I have come to accept whatever colour happens.  I'm so disappointed with dyes and stains because my guns get lots of use in all weather, and alcohol stains and dyes leach out right through the finish onto your hands, leaving a bleached out area that is not HC.
Horseman...I think total staining required about 15 minutes, including the hosing off in the driveway.  I let the wood dry overnight before burnishing it one final time, and applying tung oil.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline tpr-tru

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Re: Lye to stain Cherry
« Reply #51 on: August 21, 2013, 03:36:23 AM »
Taylor,    are you using a home brew AF or commercial (brand).   And your tung oil,  particular brand.   If your AF is home brew can you divulge your recipe.    Thank you.     

Offline tpr-tru

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Re: Lye to stain Cherry
« Reply #52 on: August 29, 2013, 04:50:28 AM »
Bumped to get Taylors attention for answer.

Offline E.vonAschwege

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Re: Lye to stain Cherry
« Reply #53 on: August 29, 2013, 10:53:07 PM »
Taylor,    are you using a home brew AF or commercial (brand).   And your tung oil,  particular brand.   If your AF is home brew can you divulge your recipe.    Thank you.     

Tpr-Tru,
    I can give you the recipe that I primarily use for aquafortis - I start with 70% pure nitric (about the strongest I could buy without a special license at the time), then I dillute it down to about 20% strength with water.  "Do as you oughtta add acid to watah".  Then I have some old rusty iron nails that I add 2 or 3 at a time to the solution.  The reaction starts slow and then really takes off.  The acid will dissolve all the nails at first, but keep adding until the reaction slows and then I'm done.  The funny thing is, I've made a few batches, all the same exact measurements and number of nails, but some will produce a lighter color than others on the same exact piece of wood.  If you add too much iron you can oversaturate the solution and end up with a lot of sludge at the bottom - which itself can be a nice stain too!  I've also used 4d finishing nails to make aquafortis - they dissolve quicker.  Don't use steel wool, you'll end up with a big bubbling reaction from all the surface area.  I'm sure there's a science to get the "optimum" stain, but most concoctions of this nature will still work.  Hope this helps,
-Eric
Former Gunsmith, Colonial Williamsburg www.vonaschwegeflintlocks.com

Offline tpr-tru

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Re: Lye to stain Cherry
« Reply #54 on: August 30, 2013, 01:10:28 AM »
Eric,    thank you for the reply.    That's what I was looking for.   All spelled out.   Thanks again.