Well presented, Dan.
I am reminded of a shooting contest some time in the 1830's to 40's where the shooter fired 5 shots from a .52 calibre rifle at 50yards. There was but one hole. They said he missed 4 of his shots. He said to split the 'chunk' and there were his 5 balls, welded together, one on top of the other. I've never been able to do that - amazing feat, amazing shot. I will not accept that he thumb started the balls and patches.
I have read somewhere, some book or a re-print of text where the hunter 'relieved' the bore to obtain better accuracy. Does this mean rounded his crown to allow tighter patching?
We know the Germans routinely filed the lands or the lands and grooves at the muzzle so they appeared sharp, but both lands and grooves were oversized compared to the actual interior of the bore. This would be a most elaborate radiused crown effect.
Both Taylor and I used to compete in the Seneca runs in the 70's. At that time, we were already using balls that were .005" under bore size and .022" denim. We were usually in the winner's circle. I did have a slow run once due to the combination I was using, but almost made up for my time with the accuracy I got from a .028" deep rifling Bauska barrel in .448" bore.(I still have a chunk of that bl.) I used a .457" ball with .022" denim (=.501")which was .003" undersized to the groove to groove measurement of .504". Between the start and the first target, I lost my starter, so had to load by merely pushing the patched ball (.009" LARGER than the bore) out of the block into the bore, then down she went, all with the 3/8" hickory rod. To get the ball started, I choked up on the rod so only about 1" was out of my hand, By pushing straight down, the ball and patch formed into the the bore. Seems to me I recall the last shot was a huge gimmi plate close, so that one went down without the patch. Overall, not having a starter did slow me down, but I still finished in 4th or 5th- maybe 6th? I probably couldn't load that today, but maybe - I was much stronger then, a mere kid at 23 to 25yrs. of age but did have a lot less experience in this game.
Kermit:
In the videos I was using WWWF(Winter Windshield Washer Fluid -35 to -45- usually Blue Thunder brand) with a bit of Neetsfoot oil - about 2 ounces per litre. Most of us up here use it. I use the same lube for shooting in the summer time and the oil seems to slow the evapouration. That is the only reason I use it- got into the habit, so that is how I always mix up a new batch. It seems to shoot the same as a spit saturated patch.
Couple winters ago, Taylor switched to using straight Neetsfoot Oil as it was not as cold as the water/alcohol/oil lube noted above.
When I tried Track's mink oil in my .32, I found subsequent loading easier after the first load (which was also easy, mind you)- no wiping needed and easy all day - perhaps 45 to 55 shots that day. I was using a .311" ball & .0235" railroad mattress ticking patch. The patches were pre-cut and saturated in melted oil, then squeezed out and placed in a tin prior to going shooting. I think the first was harder shoving down due to the 'existing' lube in the bore - WD40? After that, the mink oil lubed bore, even with whatever fouling was in there, was super slick. The 2nd through 50's were easier than the first. The rifling is backwards in this barrel. The grooves are VERY narrow and lands wide, opposite to what they should be for easy loading, yet it was incredibly easy loading.