installing barrel liners

[thecapgunkid]

There are a couple of threads on the forum about installing barrel liners. 

How do you do this?  Aside from the obvious of a worn barrel, why else is it done?

Thanks,

Capgun

[Mike Brooks]

You send it to Bob Hoyt to get it done.

[n stephenson]

I have an original barrel . It is 47 inches long .47 caliber. It has been lined and rebreeched . A friend of mine ,who is now passed away gave it to me to build a rifle with. He told me that the barrel was bored smooth and the liner was tinned , then the bore was fluxed , the liner put in and the barrel  heated till the solder flowed. He said it was rifled after that , then the breech was threaded .It is very slightly swamped . I have shot it off a fixture ,and it will shoot a group. I need to get that project going soon. Like Mike said , it is probably better to let someone who is set up for that type of work do the job .   Nate

[Hudnut]

I have installed liners in cartridge guns, and in a muzzleloading shotgun.  Never in a ml rifle barrel.
To line the shotgun barrel, I drew a .750" reamer through.  12 bore gun.  For the liner, I used a piece of seamless CR-Mo aircraft grade tubing.  Smooth sliding fit.  Machined the breech end of the liner to match the face of the breech plug.  Installed the liner with epoxy.  Pushed the liner through slightly too far, then turned in the breech plug pushing the liner forward.  This insured that the breech plug and liner are in contact.
For a rifle, I would use the same technique using one of the liners from TOW, but would open the bore to size using a piloted drill.

[L. Akers]

I did this once to create a unique barrel for a rifle I wanted to make.  Being a Hoosier by birth, I wanted to make a perch-bellied, half-stock southern Indiana squirrel rifle.  These rifles typically had heavy barrels and small calibers.  At the time I built this rifle such barrels were not available from commercial makers.  I had a 50 cal., 1" barrel blank ( unrifled) and I used a section of 5/16 ID seamless tubing I turned down to .445 OD.  I tinned the outside of the liner, fluxed the bore of the barrel, slid the liner in with the barrel held vertically and using 2 propane torches (one on each side) melted a puddle of 50-50 solder around the joint where the liner protruded from the muzzle.  I played the flames down the barrel from the muzzle toward the breech (molten solder will flow toward the heat) until the puddle was sucked into the joint at which point I refreshed the puddle at the muzzle.  I continued to do this until the solder ran out at the breech.  I then rifled, trimmed the liner to barrel length and breeched the barrel.  The result was a tack-driver.

[Daryl]

Taylor came across a finely made English 'rook'-type cap-lock rifle long time ago. It had a lovely stock, was stocked for an adult according to the length of pull, some 14", but had a high comb, short forend and tapered light weight octagonal barrel. I do not remember the calibre, but .38 seems familiar to me. The bore was rotten, so we(he) bored it out, turned down a round .36 calibre Bauska barrel I bought from Les back in 1975.  We ACCRAGLASSED the liner into the old English gun.  It worked perfectly and I shot quite a few snowshoe hares with it. It's a bit hard to shoot with the high comb, but works fine and is quite accurate.

In his basement rafters, Taylor has a 60" twist .50 cal Bauska 'liner' barrel that Les made and used to sell for lining shotshell barrels when using them for SXS flint or percussion guns. This would allow a .50 cal. rifled tube beside a smooth 12 bore tube.  Seems to me, this was made up due to some meager demand after the Jerimiah Johnson movie, which those wanting a gun like the SXS rifle/shotgun the Blackfoot Chief had.

[jerrywh]

 I don't know any professional gunsmiths today who are soldering in liners.  All if not most all liners today are held in with Loctite sleeve retainer.  Very simple. No heat required.  https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37424-Strength-Retainer-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506376252&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+sleeve+retainer

[Treebeard]

Cap Gun-- to answer the second part of your question about why relines are done it is often done to create a bore capable of target grade accuracy where the original factory rifling is just not up to it. For instance poorly executed or wrong rates of twists in various reproductions of 19th century firearms.

[thecapgunkid]

Thanks, folks

[James Wilson Everett]

Guys,

This topic has been addressed several times.  The short answer for me is to use slow setting epoxy glue, not the fast setting 5 minute stuff.  Here are a few of the topics where this issue was discussed in the past.

Wrought Iron Barrel Re-Use
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=31614.msg303333#msg303333

Damascus Barrel Re-Use
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=40436.msg392412#msg392412

Rifle Barrel Liner
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=19391.msg183213#msg183213

I hope that this helps.

Jim

[Acer Saccharum]

Hoyt does a great job. Makes his own CUT RIFLED liners.

I've done some relining. Used LocTite 609 retaining compound. Sets up fast. Not a big gap filler. Coat the barrel ID and the liner OD. Plug the end of the liner with modeling clay so the 609 doesn't enter the bore as you slide the two together. You want a healthy bead of 609 ahead of the liner as you slide it in, and a bead on the outside as the liner enters the barrel. Keep the liner moving until you've got the liner in position.

I trim the liner a whisker proud of the muzzle, and then peen the outside rim of the liner very slightly to close up any gaps. Almost invisible.

[Rolf]

Hoyt does a great job. Makes his own CUT RIFLED liners.

I've done some relining. Used LocTite 609 retaining compound. Sets up fast. Not a big gap filler. Coat the barrel ID and the liner OD. Plug the end of the liner with modeling clay so the 609 doesn't enter the bore as you slide the two together. You want a healthy bead of 609 ahead of the liner as you slide it in, and a bead on the outside as the liner enters the barrel. Keep the liner moving until you've got the liner in position.

I trim the liner a whisker proud of the muzzle, and then peen the outside rim of the liner very slightly to close up any gaps. Almost invisible.

How much time do you have before it sets?

Best regards
Rolf

[little joe]

I don't know any professional gunsmiths today who are soldering in liners.  All if not most all liners today are held in with Loctite sleeve retainer.  Very simple. No heat required.  https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37424-Strength-Retainer-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506376252&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+sleeve+retainer

How many tubes to install average liner?