Author Topic: Finshed the tang caving and side plate on the pistol. (Read 9559 times)

Rolf · « **on:** December 30, 2009, 06:17:29 PM »

I've finished the tang carving and the side plates on my fifth practice stock/pistol. I'd like to thank everybody for their advice and patience regarding all my earlier posts on practice carving attempts. I'm reasonably happy with the results. I've also inlet a sterling silver thumb plate, attached with epoxy and silver nails. Not to happy with that. I used 0.025" silver sheet stock. Should have used at least 0.04". Oh well, you live and learn.

The next step, will be doing some silver wire inlay around the butt cap area. Never tried this before. I have drawn the design,but have to make the inlay chisels and do some practice first.

Best regards
Rolfkt

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2009, 06:44:02 PM »

Just Practice eh??? Hmmpph! I am embarrassed!! That is looking quite nice

rich pierce · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2009, 07:51:50 PM »

Some folks have got "it" and you've got it.
rp

smart dog · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2009, 08:25:54 PM »

Hi Rolf,
Very well done. It is looking great! The pistol has excellent form and the carving suits it well. Some suggestions for the next one:

1. The tang carving is very good but it could use some volutes or leaves that extend on the sides of the tang and pointing toward the muzzle. That would distribute the "weight" of the design along the tang rather than concentrating all of it at the end.

2. The carved shield molding in front of the lock and sideplate panels looks good but to my taste I would rather the apex not be so pointed but more rounded and possibly extend further forward from the lock panels. Basically make it a more eccentric version of the front edge of the lock panel. To me the lock panel molding is an accent for the lock panels not a feature by itself. It should never draw the eye away from the panels, only highlight their shape. It is like the incised curves that sometimes are carved parallel to volutes to draw the eye to the volute or suggest movement.

3. The surface of the back strap of the triggerguard should be domed to merge with the shape of the stock rather than be flat.

I would be careful not to overdo the wire inlay. I am not a fan of wire inlay that is of even thickness. Unless the wire varies in thickness (or multiple thin strands merge to create thickness) it looks too regular and contrived. If you are intent on wire then my suggestion is to use thin ribbon (perhaps 0.25-0.35 mm) and make the effect subtle.

Those suggestions only represent my taste and in no way impune the quality of your work. Indeed, you have done very well my friend. Your pistols are going to be as nice as any I have seen on this board. Thanks for posting the pictures.

dave

billd · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2009, 08:35:19 PM »

Where are all these "practice" peices going?
I practice on scraps and throw them away before anyone sees them.
Bill

Rolf · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2009, 10:45:31 PM »

Thanks for the kind comments guys.

Dave. thanks for the critiques. I might be able to round the back strap of the trigger gard. It's made of 2mm thick sheet metal. I could file the edges down to 1mm and slightly round the strap. I'll make the shield moulding more round. I tried adding leaves to the tang carving to distribute the "weight", but the result looked squished. Not much room along side the tang. I wish I had used a swamped barrel. That would have given me more carving space along side the tang.

Bill, I dissected the practice stocks on a band saw That let me check the wood webs and inleting and decide where to remove or leave more wood.

The stock I'm working on now is not going to be dissected. One of the guys at my gun club bought it.

Best regards
Rolfkt

JTR · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2009, 11:29:00 PM »

Way to go, Rolf!
You've come a long way from your first practice pieces, and I'd say you have it pretty well nailed now!

Maybe a few little things like Dave has pointed out, but if you made the final pistol like this practice piece, you would need to make no apologies at all.

The 0.025 silver is about what a lot of originals used, but the 0.040 would give you more thickness to comform it to the profile of the handle easier.

When you get around to the silver wire, let's see your design first. Also, somewhere on here, I posted some pics of an English officers fowler with a lot of silver wire inlay. I tittled it something like 'A silver wire beauty'. You might search for it, for ideas on wire inlay.

Impressed,
John

Gunnermike · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2009, 04:22:20 AM »

Here it is 'A silver wire English beauty!' - http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=522.msg5165#msg5165

Ed Wenger · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2009, 04:29:43 AM »

Rolf,

You should be more than reasonably happy with your carving and mouldings. Very well done! Nice execution and very clean background around the carving. Thanks for the pics and great job!

Ed

B Shipman · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:25:53 AM »

Really very nice work.

Birddog6 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2009, 03:13:53 PM »

I think it looks just absolutely Great !!

Long John · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2009, 04:20:13 PM »

Rolf,

That looks super! I admire your tenacity and methodical approach. I can hardly wait to see pictures of the finished gun.

Best Regards,

JMC

Dale Campbell · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2009, 04:57:09 PM »

The one guy at your gun club is a smart man.

Daryl · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2009, 05:47:34 PM »

Bill, I dissected the practice stocks on a band saw That let me check the wood webs and inleting and decide where to remove or leave more wood.

I just about spewed coffee all over my keyboard and screen when i read that. Glad someone bought the one pictured above. Looks great to me.

Madcaster · « **Reply #14 on:** December 31, 2009, 05:49:57 PM »

Looking GOOD!

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #15 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:16:43 PM »

the pistol is going to be great!! I am so impressed with your systematic and patient work.

One suggestion: Play around with narrowing the front section of your sideplate... Don't try to use the same arc as on the tail section.... I think you might like it better and it would make the pistol look slimmer and longer.....just a thought.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:43:01 PM »

Rolftk, Just a thought before you move into wire inlay. Flat ribbon does not inlay well into curved surfaces, tends to want to lay down or roll over. Not sure if there's a trick out there for this situation or not, but I became frustrated with this situation in the past. Maybe someone with more experience in inlaying wire can provide a though on this.

I like Dr. Tim's suggestion on the sideplate.

Very nice work so far.

Artificer · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:09:43 PM »

Rolf,

I think Dave made some excellent suggestions, but WOW if this is only your early work on pistols, you are way ahead of the learning curve. NICE carving.

I tend to prefer early pieces and your pistol really tripped my trigger. The extensions of the lock panels to the underside of the stock reminded me of an early Brown Bess Musket and Model 1738 Land Service Pistol. Some of the carving at the top reminded me of that pistol as well - though yours is more decoratively carved. I REALLY like how you blended in a bit of 18th century "military flavor" in this pistol, even if you didn't intend to do so.

I could see such a pistol being owned by a Militia Officer or even someone in in his later years who had a military background, in the 18th century.

WELL DONE, Sir.

LRB · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:44:25 PM »

Quote from: Tom Currie on December 31, 2009, 08:43:01 PM

Rolftk, Just a thought before you move into wire inlay. Flat ribbon does not inlay well into curved surfaces, tends to want to lay down or roll over. Not sure if there's a trick out there for this situation or not, but I became frustrated with this situation in the past. Maybe someone with more experience in inlaying wire can provide a though on this.

I like Dr. Tim's suggestion on the sideplate.

Very nice work so far.

Using pure silver helps, It bends easier than Sterling.

Daryl · « **Reply #19 on:** January 01, 2010, 05:15:40 PM »

Cutting the pistol stock in half would be impossible for me. What a perfect 'holding' design. Much like mine.

Rolf · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2010, 11:50:57 AM »

Thank you for all the kind comments and tips(I learn alot from them). I'm going to start with the wire inlay after my med.school exam 01/12-10(pediatrics, obstetrics and gynaecology). I'll post pictures of my wire inlay design and practice attempts.

Best regards

Rolfkt

Licensed to kill · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2010, 03:23:36 PM »

Quote from: Rolfkt on January 03, 2010, 11:50:57 AM

and gynaecology)I'll post pictures
Best regards

Rolfkt

Uh...what??

..... oh, I guess you gotta read the whole sentence $:-\$

smart dog · « **Reply #22 on:** January 04, 2010, 02:29:07 AM »

Rolf,
Best of luck on your exams. If you prepare for them like you build guns, they should be pieces of cake.

dave

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Author Topic: Finshed the tang caving and side plate on the pistol. (Read 9559 times)

billd

Birddog6

Daryl

Madcaster

Daryl

Licensed to kill