tung oil question

[alex e.]

I have been using Tung oil on my last few projects and am satisfied with it as a finish.Even after using it in  heavy rain for a day followed by a day of wet snow its held up better than I expected.   That being said I always put enough on to fill all the open grain[at least on walnuts]making a smooth clear finish.On  my current project[a French composite fusil] I would like to keep the sheen at a minimum.So that being said: Just how much finish is enough to offer  decent protection? 1,2,3,4, coats .While still leaving an "open grain" look. Its either that or go a number of coats with something like BLO,which i'm not super crazy about.
Thanks in advance, Alex

[Kermit]

  Here's an answer from my perspective as a furniture maker. If you're looking for it to be easier than BLO, consider that tung oil should be sanded after each and every coat. I consider 5 to 7 coats necessary on high-end furniture. BLO has its issues as well, and you are probably aware of them or you would have asked. One thing to be aware of is that many products out there that have "tung" in the label are NOT tung oil. I don't think some of them have even shaken hands with the oil of the tung tree nut. If they do, they have other stuff in there too--solvents, driers, whatnot.

I get pure tung oil here: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

They have dark tung oil too.

Below is something I lifted off the 'net somewhere:

"What the Finishing Manufacturers Don't Tell You
Common brands of finish that are wiping varnish:
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox
General Finishes' Sealacell
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Daly's ProFin
Jasco Tung Oil

Common brands of finish that are oil/varnish blends:
Watco Danish Oil
Deft Danish Oil
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Behlen Salad Bowl Finish
Behlen Teak Oil
Watco Teak Oil"

[Dphariss]

I have been using Tung oil on my last few projects and am satisfied with it as a finish.Even after using it in  heavy rain for a day followed by a day of wet snow its held up better than I expected.   That being said I always put enough on to fill all the open grain[at least on walnuts]making a smooth clear finish.On  my current project[a French composite fusil] I would like to keep the sheen at a minimum.So that being said: Just how much finish is enough to offer  decent protection? 1,2,3,4, coats .While still leaving an "open grain" look. Its either that or go a number of coats with something like BLO,which i'm not super crazy about.
Thanks in advance, Alex

Properly prepared linseed oil is far less work than most if not all other options.
This pistol was oiled with all the oil it would accept, sat in the sun till it went down then put in the shop over night then a second coat added.


Its home cooked BLO with about 50% Grumbacher's Oil medium III. Basically a linseed oil varnish.
First coat cut with aged turpentine to thin it.
Won't water spot or turn hazy either.



Dan