Triggerguard placement

[LURCHWV@BJS]

  I have two pics,  Three posts on guard A,B,C A in the rear.  My Question is this The two pics are almost the same just moved guard a little.  The B post, Does it serve a purpose?  I thought maybe the tang bolt could be threaded into the guard after removing the B post.  Or should I just look for a different gaurd?



 I am probably making this harder than I need to.

     Rich

[Stophel]

Well, really you got too much triggerplate ahead of the front bolt.

The triggerguard should be pinned into place in the front.  Some are screwed at the rear, some are tenoned and pinned.  This one is meant to be screwed at the rear.

They did a LOUSY job of positioning the tenon on that triggerguard.  If it were me, I would silver solder a new tenon just ahead of the cast-in one, and use that.  It will partially have to go in the area where you have too much metal on the front end of the triggerplate.  Cut off the end of the triggerplate as necessary.  HOPEFULLY, the triggerguard is wide enough to cover up all of the extra triggerplate inletting.  Probably is.

Oh, and cut off "tab A and C" completely.

[northmn]

Triggerguards are placed as to what looks best or eyeballed.  I have seen some originals where they put them in to far forward to suit me, but I vaguley remember a reason for that.  I agree with Stophel's advice.  cut off the end of the trigger plate and plug it and let the guard inlay cover it up.  Also you neee to inlet the trigger plate deeper as it should be level with the wood.  You may also run inot ramrod blockage with the tenon too far forward. 

DP

[Acer Saccharum]

I agree completely with Stophel. Cut A off, and hold guard to the stock with a screw.

C comes off flush with bottom of extension, it was there only to make the casting fill completely.

B is cast 1/2" too far to the rear. In an ideal world, this would be cast dierctly under the bow where it joins the extension. But yoou can use as is by cutting some material off of the trigger side of the tab, or cut the tab off completely and silver solder it forward(better fix). Then all will be good. The guard extension will cover most of the trigger plate, that will work well.

This kind of guard gets partly inlet into the wood, with much of it standing proud. Often a little incised or relieved border moulding surrounds the extension.

You should write your supplier and tell them that the tab is in the wrong place. They won't sell many guards if they don't change it.

[BJH]

Lurch, If you don't have any way to silver solder, save gate "c".  File the end to a round spigot 1/8 or 3/16 dia by a bit longer than your guard is thick. Remove the problem lug. Drill the appropriate size hole where you need it. lightly countersink the top of the hole. Flux the peg and the hole. Hold lug tightly in vise and stake the peg into the hole upsetting the peg into the countersink. Then soft solder the lug from the underside. Some of the solder may wick up between the peg and the guard and show on the top surface if the riviting process is not tight.   BJH

P.S. I did exactly this fix to this guard some years ago. If memory serves me well.

[Jim Filipski]

Ok The easy fix ( Well for me) I have inletted about half a dozen of these guards.
 Cut the triggerplate 1/4 " from the screw. Cut back the "B" stud to just clear the front of the trigger plate. Cut the A and C parts off flush. Inlet the front tab B straight down right in front of the newly cut trigger plate. You will then inlet the front extension of the tang down into the wood and where it hits the trigger plate you will file the trigger guard to relieve that area. Hopefully you will be in the wood before it become necessary to relive some of the steel of the trigger plate ( but most likely you will still have to inlet into the plate slightly) That guard fits very well but you need to use advanced inletting techniques to get it in. @!*% I did so many wish I had photos for you!
Jim

[Jim Filipski]

Lurch maybe this will help with what I'm talking about



Rich Granted these are carving photos but look at the trigger guard area!
Jim

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Yes Jim thank you this helps alot.  Now about silver soldering,  Can you use propane and a plumbers torch?


            Rich

[Stophel]

When I say silver solder, I mean silver solder.  An oxy-acetylene torch is necessary (or some kind of forge arrangement or something)

A metal tenon can be made and threaded into the guard too.

I have an old german gun that has an iron tenon added to the brass guard.  I honestly cannot tell how it is attached!!!  No trace of solder to be seen.  Could be threaded or peened in place.  It's very neatly done.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

 I have an idea using the C lug.  Cut it off flush, File the end to a round spigot thread it, Drill and tap the guard, cut off the B lug, using the C which now becomes the B...  Or would it be the A if I remove the original A,B & C Just kidding   Honestly though, Would this be pheasable (feasable, feezable,phyzable)?  (Been up since 3am 3hrs sleep, feeling a little goofy)


          Rich

[Jim Filipski]

Rich, The way I inlet the guard you will notice that the little ball finial on the inside of the front of the trigger bow will lay right on top of or very close to the bottom of the tang bolt hole after cutting the length of that bolt flush with the plate ( depending on the gun)

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Looks like I bought a fun one for my first.  Nothing ventured nothing gained.

 Thanx Jim

        Rich