RIG is being discontinued!

[Blacktail]

I recently learned that the wonderful rust preventative RIG (rust inhibiting grease) is being discontinued. I've used the stuff for years and found it to be to best thing going for rust prevention. A little dab goes a long way. I've been using the same 3.75 oz jar for the last 4 or 5 years and have used maybe 1/3 of the jar.

I ordered enough for me with some left over for the kid after I die! Brownells and shotgun sports magazine are the only places with any left.

[William Worth]

Oh great, something else we have to hoard.

[Scott Bumpus]

I just ordered 12 cans.  I can't be without rig.  anyone know where to get some rig rags? brownells was out when i called.

[Dphariss]

I"ll never miss it.
Have not used it since 1970.
There are things that work as well or better and are less gooey.

Dan

[William Worth]

Being gooey is what makes it work (by staying in place).

[t.caster]

Dphariss....curious, what have you found is better???

nevermind, I just saw your comments about G-96 in the "alcohol" thread. I assume that is what you are talking about.

[Dphariss]

Dphariss....curious, what have you found is better???

nevermind, I just saw your comments about G-96 in the "alcohol" thread. I assume that is what you are talking about.

RIG "Rust Inhibiting Grease" is a scam, almost any grease is "rust inhibiting". I used to grease plow moldboards in Iowa with gun grease and they never rusted from year to year if clean.
For long term protection of a bore (years not months)  I would use Break Free CLP. It goes on as an oil and forms a grease as the solvents go away. It has a very good rep for this use. If I wanted to grease a bore I suspect that a premium wheel bearing grease will work just as well as RIG and ounce for ounce is a lot cheaper. CLP will be easier to remove later
I have used G-96 (was G-66 years back) in high humidity, low humidity, field conditions,  indoors near the ocean and have never had it fail me since the mid-1960s. In the bore, in the action or on the outside of the gun. Its nearly impossible to rub off enough to remove all the protection. Never gums up. But the excess will migrate out the vent and into the stock so set the gun muzzle down over night. This applies to any oil.
But as they say your milage may vary.

Dan

[William Worth]

I am such a sucker for goops and glops.  I have shelves groaning under their weight in my quest for "one thing that does all".  But as you say, they all have specific application.  It's not unusual for me to use several different lubes on one gun in various locations.

So where do you get G-96? 

One thing that I hesitate about using a silicone bearing product is silicone's propensity to get where you don't want it and being very persistent (and invisible) in removal.

I wonder how good of a rust inhibitor/lube 75W-90 synthetic gear lube would be?  It works well on a motorcycle chain, certainly a harsh, dynamic environment.

[Dphariss]

I am such a sucker for goops and glops.  I have shelves groaning under their weight in my quest for "one thing that does all".  But as you say, they all have specific application.  It's not unusual for me to use several different lubes on one gun in various locations.

So where do you get G-96? 

One thing that I hesitate about using a silicone bearing product is silicone's propensity to get where you don't want it and being very persistent (and invisible) in removal.

I wonder how good of a rust inhibitor/lube 75W-90 synthetic gear lube would be?  It works well on a motorcycle chain, certainly a harsh, dynamic environment.

The problem with EP lubes is you pay for something you never use, the EP additives. Technically I suppose the EPs might help the sear nose/tumbler notch friction since they are designed to "kick in" where metal rubs together (ring and pinions in a differential) but they also require heat to fully activate IIRC.
G-96 is sometimes hard to find, I bought 24 big aerosol cans wholesale a couple of years before I gave up my FFL and find my supply is running low again. But bigger sporting good stores often carry it.
As with many things there are claims on the label that it might not live up to, like removing metal fouling. Lead or copper fouling usually takes a dedicated formula to remove. Hoppe's 9, Sweets or some such. But aside from that its a pretty good product that will protect surfaces from finger printing etc with no really noticeable layer of oil.
On a gun silicone is not a problem unless you soak it into the wood, but any petroleum product is bad for wood as well.

Dan