Southern Mtn Flint

[rennikselum]

My attempt at a Southern Mtn rifle built around a 42" Rice barrel in .45 cal.
As usual, many old mistakes from past guns replaced with "new" mistakes. I'm slowly learning, but have a LONG way to go...
Welcome all & any critiques. Always looking to improve.

[KLMoors]

I can't comment on the specifics  of your architecture as I don't know anything about that style.  I do think it looks real nice overall. I think the only thing I would have done differently would be a slightly smaller lock plate, maybe with a little curve to it. Real nice fit/finish and a gorgeous color.  Thanks for the pics!

[Pete G.]

Only mistake I noticed is that in your layout you somehow got the lock on the back side of the rifle instead of the front, but the color and finish look really good. What did you use?

[wattlebuster]

I like it an that is some VERY BEAUTIFUL wood you have there

[dogcreek]

I'm just a tyro when it comes to building rifles. But your workmanship looks excellent and the gun has graceful lines. And I liked the aged finish you gave the metal parts. It's a rifle anybody would be proud to own. Keep up the good work.

[greybeard]

As we would say here in the great white north, "Not too shabey, EH !!
    Bob

[Bill of the 45th]

Beautiful work, except for the german lock.  I know Chambers doesn't make an English lock in left hand, but L&R does, Great gun otherwise.

Bill

[Scott Semmel]

I should be the last guy to be critical, I'm a perpetual apprentice level builder. But your web twixt barrel and rod looks almost as thick as the barrel at the muzzle. Why is the rod that proud of the barrel? The depth of the gun looks OK at the lock but from the entry pipe forward the web looks really thick.

[gregg]

what a rifle  what a piece of wood

[willyr]

Beautiful rifle. I know everyone tells us not to use a germanic lock on a southern rifle. However, if one is building a lefty, the Siler is the only reasonable choice. With the other lock mentioned, and I have used them, first you pay top dollar for the lock, then you spend many hours making it functional. I had rather spend a few hours making the siler look not quite so Germanic.
Be Well,
Bill Ridout

[heinz]

Nicely done.  A good old timey rifle.  I especially like the trigger guard and your choice of patch box style.

[elk killer]

fit and finish look great
maybe pin the front of the guard, instead of that screw

[KennyC]

I like your your gun  thanks for sharing

[whitebear]

It could be just the angle of the picture ro due to your physique or shooting style but the cheek piece looks a little far to the front.  Otherwise it is a very nice rifle.

[Scout]

I also have a southern rifle , great job and the wood looks beautiful.

[pathfinder]

Nice job! looks great. How's she shoot?

[dannybb55]

Sweet, A mountain rifle is a great medium for free expression. Nice work

[Curtis]

Very clean lines, nice looking gun.  Tell us about the trigger guard and the finish method please!  I really like the colors and contrast - what staining methods were used?

[chuckles2011]

there is only one big mistake...it's not hanging on my wall...beautiful work!!......chuckles 2011

[rennikselum]

Thanks for the comments.
This gun was loosely based on MElliots Va gun that was on the old ALR board. I have saved a picture of it in my shop since I 1st saw it with intentions of building something close.

The side plate size makes alot of sense; smaller would look better. I liked the look of a plate I saw on here from AMartin and DGetz, of course their side plate was smaller and much more graceful looking. I failed to capture that look.
I have found that while focusing on an individual aspect of a gun and then looking at that part on the whole gun when finished, I miss alot of the intended look I was working towards...One day I hope to develop that vision.

I originally was shooting for a dull gray look on the metal. I browned the metal parts and sanded them back. I had a couple of days off from working on the gun after that and during that time it rained...alot. When I went back to work on the gun it had the pitted/spotted look to it. I kinda liked it so I left it.

The wood finish is 2 coats of aqua-fortis (let dry between coats), coat with linseed oil. Then use a torch fanning across the wood at a safe distance until the oil bubbles and the color pops out.

There are a number fthings on the gun I hope to improve on the biggest one still is the lock panels...I have a hard time getting them blended correctly. I have never been satisfied with getting this accomplished on any of my guns.

Thanks,
Jeff

[wetzel]

Thanks for the post, I have always liked the Southern Mountain Rifles, seeing yours makes me want to build one.  So simple, yet elegant.  Yours looks great!!  In your description you said you put two coats of Aquafortis on, letting them dry between coats, then put linseed oil on before heating, then used torch.  So you applied the heat after the oil and not before right?  You let both coats of Aquafortis dry completely then put linseed oil on, and then after that you applied the heat, right?  Your finish is awesome, the colors are brilliant.  Did you just use more linseed oil after that to seal it? 

Another question is what is the best lock to use on a right handed southern mountain gun?  I was wanting to make a convertable and was thinking about using Jim Chambers Golden age percussion and his Golden age flint.  Would this be appropriate?  If a germanic lock is not appropriate why does every kit on the market use a siler lock?

[smylee grouch]

One more lock bolt would make the nice looking gun even nicer.  Smylee

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

One more lock bolt would make the nice looking gun even nicer.  Smylee

Why would you want to add another lock bolt??

[A.Merrill]

    Great looking gun, everything about it looks fine. Thanks for the pic's.    AL

[rennikselum]

On the finish,
2 coats of aqua-fortis-let dry between coats. May look gray or greeninsh tint when dry
1 coat of linseed oil-soaks in rather quick.
Fan torch across wood at a safe distance-always moving the flame,never letting it rest on one spot. There are safer methods I've read about but never tried; piece of iron heated red hot and waved close to wood, Maybe a heat gun???. Will have to experiment.
Linseed oil starts to bubble and then the color will pop out.

Try this method on a piece of scrap, it is really amazing. The first time I tried this I was very hesitant to get the heat near the wood, so of course the color was not changing and I was getting disappointed. Then out of a "what do I have to lose" moment since the wood was a greenish tint. I applied the heat a little longer on the wood (fanning the torch) and the color all of sudden turns a nice reddish/brown hue.

I've only used multiple applications of linseed oil so far as a final finish.

Jeff