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Author Topic: more piks of lancaster rust blueing  (Read 5133 times)

Offline hortonstn

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more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« on: July 16, 2011, 11:29:19 PM »
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Offline wattlebuster

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2011, 05:51:29 AM »
Very nice :)
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Offline Glenn

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2011, 06:30:29 AM »
WOW ... that looks great.  ;D

You did a good job.  I like the finish because it appears subdued but uniform throughout.  I need to learn how to do this.  Looks a little better than some of the browns I've seen lately.
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Offline Curtis

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2011, 06:49:37 AM »
Looks good, Paul.  What rusting/carding/boiling method did you en up using?


Curtis
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Offline hortonstn

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2011, 03:28:43 PM »
curt
i used danglers rust blue over a period of about three weeks, i was on vacation one of those weeks, just put it on when i thought about it, with a cotton patch, after i had a good brown i boiled it for 15 minutes, then carded with a white
scotch bright followed by a baking soda bath then mineral oil
about as easy as it gets
paul
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Offline alyce-james

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2011, 08:34:05 PM »
Great looking job. I'm going to try the same method on a future pistol (flint). Thanks for sharing the method. Have a great week. Turkeyfooter
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Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2011, 09:29:14 PM »
Quote from: HORTONSTN on July 18, 2011, 03:28:43 PM
curt
i used danglers rust blue over a period of about three weeks, i was on vacation one of those weeks, just put it on when i thought about it, with a cotton patch, after i had a good brown i boiled it for 15 minutes, then carded with a white
scotch bright followed by a baking soda bath then mineral oil
about as easy as it gets
paul

Do you mean Dangler's browning Solution?? Or is there actually a Dangler's Rust Blue Solution??
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Offline hortonstn

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2011, 10:01:20 PM »
i'll look but i'm sure its danglers rust blueing solution,
i also have his browning solution, i don't know if there is a chemical difference or not i've heard of regular browning turning to black/blue when boiling
does that mean anything rust brown will turn black when boiled????
paul
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Offline Bill of the 45th

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2011, 12:12:05 AM »
Yes Paul, any Brown will turn blue/black if boiled, providing it hasn't been sealed.  The higher the polish of the metal, the bluer it will tend to look.  The high polish also requires more applications of brown, then boil, with shorter times between app's to keep the pitting at a minimum.  I have an engraved lock plate I just got back from Jerry Rice, that I'm going to rust blue, then work back to highlight the engraving.  I'l take and post some pic's. of the process.

Bill
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: more piks of lancaster rust blueing
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2011, 04:55:53 PM »
I have rust blued a number of barrels and have never seen ay sign of after rust. The boiling seems to take care of that.
Its possible to get a mat finish if that is desired but a soft mat or semi-shiny is the usual result for me. How long its allowed to rust between boilings will give a smoother or coarser finish. In Montana with a humidity box It usually takes about a week to blue a barrel.
I always polish to 320. Going farther makes it difficult to break the surface tension and get a good even first application.
Stopping the process early will produce a grey/grey blue almost translucent color on the steel.
I have never done this but its a stage in the process that some might like.
I have used Wahkon Bay brown and AF stock stain mixed on a number of barrels and it works well or my own home made stuff. TOO MUCH ACID STRIPS THE RUST if you make your own. You can guess how I found this out... So testing might be in order with shop made stuff.
It is important out here at least that the solution be made with at least some Nitric Acid. It will give a superior blue and faster rust compared to solutions with no nitric. This is how I ended up mixing the two Wahkon Bay products years ago.
There is a Rust Blue that Brownell's sells that stopped rusting on the third coat. This was years back and I never bought any more or used it again.   

Dan
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