Preferred glue?

[Roger Fisher]

This has not been discussed here for a time so I'll ask?  Those pesky little gaps around the barrel tang and/or the lock mortice (they don't happen to any of us just the other guys .  The cure can be setting in (read glue) a 'shim' and dressing it down so it looks like the original stock wood (someone told me this! ) So, begs the question if this ever occured to you what glue would you use.?  Yellow carp.glue, epoxy, Wot?

[Black Hand]

I use yellow glue on the occasions that I have needed to fill a defect. 

[David Rase]

If the gaps are not too big I perfer peening the metal to make it fit vs. gluing / shimming.  It is urprising how little effort it takes to move alot of metal.
DMR

[Dphariss]

If the gaps are not too big I perfer peening the metal to make it fit vs. gluing / shimming.  It is urprising how little effort it takes to move alot of metal.
DMR

Me too.

Dan

[Stophel]

If I have to use glue, I use Titebond II or III.  I do not like epoxy.  Any epoxy.  Even the best ones I find unreliable.  On rare occasion, I have to use epoxy, I mix it up and hope that it sets up properly.

[G. Elsenbeck]

Roger, I prefer the peening the metal if small gaps and I would assume from the 'underside' of the tang?  If using glue I would mix some Titebond III (waterproof) with some fine stock sawdust into a putty mixture and apply that to the affected areas.  You have to work quickly doing this, but surprisingly works very well and when sanded down will/should match the surrounding stock.  I've been a wood butcher for quite some time and this method has served me well over the years. 
Gary

[Daryl]

I use thin or medium CA with sawdust to fill pin knot-holes and dry-checks in bows.  The CA is sqirted into the hole or crack, then 'dust' of the same wood is sprinkled on top. When it sets - from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the grade of glue, the 'lump' can be dressed dwon for a perfectly sealed and stainable 'plug'.  I don' t see why it couldn't be used for filling woops! as well. Wax or some other 'release' agent would have to be used for any metal contact.  If putting in a wood 'shim' to fill a slot, I'd use one of the clear-drying carpenter's glues.

 I find the idea of peening interesting and a useful tip.

[Dphariss]

I use thin or medium CA with sawdust to fill pin knot-holes and dry-checks in bows.  The CA is sqirted into the hole or crack, then 'dust' of the same wood is sprinkled on top. When it sets - from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the grade of glue, the 'lump' can be dressed dwon for a perfectly sealed and stainable 'plug'.  I don' t see why it couldn't be used for filling woops! as well. Wax or some other 'release' agent would have to be used for any metal contact.  If putting in a wood 'shim' to fill a slot, I'd use one of the clear-drying carpenter's glues.

 I find the idea of peening interesting and a useful tip.

I like a 4 oz  ball pean hammer with a well polished face.
Very useful.
Dan

[HistoricalArmsMaker]

In looking at some original pieces, the old builders had the same problems we have today. The edges of undersides often appear to have been peened. 'Course its hard to say if those were part of the original forging process, but sometimes its pretty clear they are localized to possibly fill a gap. I started doing that a few years back and its good to learn the art of plannishing. Its the working of a metal edge to "grow" the metal out. If its real bad, then it takes a bigger hammer! But it really does work. And the face must be smooth. Try experimenting with a piece of metal to teach yourself how to do this. Doing this is not restricted to only the tang. It can be done on any metal part! It beats the heck out of glue-ins or epoxy fixes. But, if you have to do a glue repair, I use carpenters glue, BUT, its best to always pre-stain the area so the glue won't lock out the ability to stain.
Susie

[jerrywh]

Ive never had a gap in a inlet.  You guys sure have a lot of problems.

[rich pierce]

I use stainable carpenter's glue.  Invisible.

[Roger Fisher]

Ive never had a gap in a inlet.  You guys sure have a lot of problems.

Never dry balled either eh?

[jerrywh]

How did you find out about that?

[Robert Wolfe]

I've heard tell that Jerry's first gun was not that different than the rest of ours. The difference, I suppose,  is in what he did after that.

[Scott Bumpus]

I bet he aint ever sliped in mocasins either.   

[Acer Saccharum]

If didn't make my own stocks, I wouldn't have any inletting mistakes.   

[jerrywh]

The difference between my first gun and most of them now is , You couldn't buy any parts then so everything was hand forged except the barrel. The barrel was from bill large. It was a .441 caliber and is still in circulation some place. I talked to the guy who owned it about 8 years ago . He was almost 100 years old then. He sold it shortly afterwards. I don't know who he sold it to.
   It was a strange looking long rifle. It had no moldings. I would recognize it if I saw it.  I finished it in 1961.  In 1961 it was hard to even find a photo of a long rifle in Oregon. 

[Acer Saccharum]

I don't know where my first is. I had used a Win Lever action for the butt stock shape, drop and pull. Barrel and parts from Dixie. I am sure it was ugly, though my memory fails me here. I was 17 at the time.



 

I'd never even seen a longrifle, except what was in the Dixie catalog; you know what I mean......newsprint paper with full length guns about 3" long on the page. I must have worn that book out turning pages. Schoolwork? Just a minute......

[Acer Saccharum]

I am sure I must have had gaps. Though on my first attempt, I ruined the stock blank when inletting the barrel. I had to get a new piece of wood. I got a fresh piece of maple, right from the mill, with juice running right out the end. Seemed to work OK, what did I know?

Acer