Author Topic: sear material (Read 11386 times)

b bogart · « **on:** October 20, 2011, 10:12:20 PM »

I recently purchased a lock kit for a mule ear lock, but it has no sear. I was wondering what grade of steel is the best for making a sear? I do not think that I will be able to buy the sear as I have only seen a few of these locks (mostly in pictures). Any input would be greatly appreciated.

JCKelly · « **Reply #1 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:23:32 PM »

OK, I admit, don't know what I'm looking at or how it works.

A sear in general needs a hard surface.
You can:
1. Make it of nice, plain old hot rolled mild steel and caseharden it. Then the question how do I case harden it? Kasenit works alright but generally makes only a very thin case, maybe 0.001" thick, which wears out soon. Pack hardening is good if you have a furnace and/or patience with a large fire.
2. Make it of some medium-to-high carbon steel, just heat it red with a torch & water quench. Just quench the nose. Really, 10% table salt in the water makes a better quench. Then temper the nose about 350-375F in wife's oven when she's out somewhere. Draw back the rest of it to maybe blue or higher, reduce chances of breakage.
What steel? Well, what can you get? AISI 1095 is one of the more available, if you can get it in the thickness you need, go with it. Personally I like 1073/1074 but that is harder to find. A tool steel such as O1 drill rod is just fine, that may be oil quenched, water not necessary.
3. Best, talk to someone who has actually made AND SUCCESSFULLY USED such a part.

Daryl · « **Reply #2 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:33:32 PM »

Yeah- my interest is piqued, too. I've never seen a side slapper from the inside, so I don't know what the parts look like- that's why my interest is piqued. The sear and pivot (small part with the single dimple) appear to be in the picture, to me.

kutter · « **Reply #3 on:** October 20, 2011, 11:05:48 PM »

Cold rolled steel, then case harden with casenite. Easy to do and no heat treat specialty tools beyond a propane torch.
With a continued heating and application of the casenite, a deep casehardened surface can be had. I've never had one wear out in use.
I've made alot of hammers, sears, etc for cartridge guns from the stuff and they're still in service.

Is that one of the Mule Ear locks from the guy in Florida? (pics for the piqued)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=77260

b bogart · « **Reply #4 on:** October 20, 2011, 11:26:36 PM »

Yes I believe it is kutter. I wish I had contact for him to see if I can get a sear from him. I have an idea how to get one made but if it was easy to get one......... and maybe some instructions?

Thank you for the info!

kutter · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2011, 03:27:28 AM »

You might try contacting the original poster of the thread on that board,,, he said he was a friend of the person in Florida that made the lock kit.
Perhaps he could provide some info regarding the maker for you. Or maybe a source for the part since he seemed to be involved in selling the kit for the maker.

Dave B · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2011, 08:05:59 AM »

I think this is by the same guy in Florida

Old Ford2 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2011, 02:50:32 PM »

Dave B,
Please tell me more about your side slapper.
Would love to get one!
Old Ford

b bogart · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2011, 03:24:21 PM »

That is the same lock Dave. I bought a "kit" just like the one shown but without the sear. I do not know what the 2 small pieces are to the right of the picture. I figure I won't need a fly as I'll use a simple trigger. I geuss I'll just get some Kasenit and go for it. What's the worst I can do? If it turns out bad I'll have what I refer to as "valuable experience".

I've done that Eric and found several pics, but I'm still missing the sear. I think I can come up with the part even if I have to make a few of them to get one right. Wish me luck.

keweenaw · « **Reply #9 on:** October 21, 2011, 04:58:22 PM »

The one small piece is a link to hook the spring to the tumbler.

Daryl · « **Reply #10 on:** October 21, 2011, 06:02:53 PM »

In comparrison of pictures, it appears to me the sear is improperly cast, where Dave's picture shows the way it should look.

wmaser · « **Reply #11 on:** October 21, 2011, 08:09:04 PM »

I make the sear, as well as all the other internal working parts of my locks, out of leaf springs off of an old truck. They are easy to find, they are free and, if you have a forge, you can make lock parts and springs as well as knife blades, tomahawks and axes. I also use them to make cutting tools, such as gravers, chisels, reamer bits and cutting heads for the rifling machine.

KNeilson · « **Reply #12 on:** October 22, 2011, 03:37:27 AM »

Is it possible that the picture was taken as to not show any depth to the sear? It looks flat in the pic. If possible, I would like to see the rear view of the same components with the camera slightly off the perpendicular.... As far as material for parts, I agree with wild bill. I use a fair amount of spring material (the older the better) for similar uses. regards.... Kerry

b bogart · « **Reply #13 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:09:00 AM »

No the person I got it from has impeccable reputation. They were surprised that there was no sear. I got it for a good price, so I'll suck it up and try to make one. It may be a bad casting, but it just appears as tho there is no sear. I'm in no rush. I'll get it together somehow. Maybe someone that has one will see this and contact me with some detail pictures. If not I'll fake it

.

By spring material do you mean like automobile leaf springs? I got a pair off a 67 Mustang. Lotsa material to experiment with.

KNeilson · « **Reply #14 on:** October 22, 2011, 06:38:26 AM »

Yes, they are desireable for that purpose. Older (60`s vehicles and prior) are generally plain carbon steels like 1085 , I mean not too many alloys. 70`s and up are more alloyed, a number like 5160...( for reference see list in this thread http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=18658.0 I hope you keep us in the loop as you "fake" it, I for one have been considering an attempt at making one, and have never seen the working interior either... neat stuff....... Kerry

Dave B · « **Reply #15 on:** October 22, 2011, 09:06:41 AM »

Old ford , This is a picture of some one elses lock I came across a while back. I have been interested in how these locks work and have a collection of various photos of them.

THis one is an original I think maybe not but the sear bar is very short

wmaser · « **Reply #16 on:** October 22, 2011, 09:21:21 AM »

Ive never tried a 67 Mustang but I"ll bet it would work just fine.

Ephraim · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2011, 03:30:56 PM »

Ephraim here
Don't make a sear I found a kit that the plate is messed up but the rest of the parts seam to be ok send me your address and I will send the kit to you.
Ephraum

b bogart · « **Reply #18 on:** October 23, 2011, 06:44:30 AM »

It doesn't get much better than that! Thank you Ephraim !!!!

Ephraim · « **Reply #19 on:** October 25, 2011, 05:25:19 PM »

Well Bogie I got good news and bad news.
bad news the fishing trip was called off ,good news your kit is on it's way should be in your post box Thurs. or Fri.
Ephraim

b bogart · « **Reply #20 on:** October 25, 2011, 05:49:31 PM »

I would rather wait and know you got to go finshing Ephraim! I'm sorry you didn't get to go. Please let me know what I owe you my friend!

Ephraim · « **Reply #21 on:** October 25, 2011, 06:44:21 PM »

This site has helped me and been such a joy to me just think of it as pay forward you will get a chance to give someone a hand some day and I will be payed enjoy.
Ephraim
p.s. When you are done post pic's. have fun.

Ephraim · « **Reply #22 on:** October 31, 2011, 05:40:56 PM »

bogie now that you know what the sear looks like you can fix that plate and make a sear .
and build you and your son a rifle. By the way where did you see my mule ear rifle just wonderning?
have some fun with that kit they are not that hard to make a good lock from it. You will need to make the trow longer than the noch on the hammer is now, I did on the one I built.
Ephraim
p.s. if you need any help just ask I will try if i can.

b bogart · « **Reply #23 on:** October 31, 2011, 07:10:53 PM »

Thanks Ephriam for the lock parts!! I saw your rifle on the Contemporary Blog. It looked so interesting and I just had to try to build one. Once my son saw the parts on the table he wanted to know if I would build him a rifle with the lock. He may have even "demanded" that I do it.
I will try to copy that tumbler, but you say the full cock notch needs to be moved farther back in the rotation? Oh yea I'll probably pester you a good bit when I get to that project. Any tips to keep me on track is gonna be a good thing.
Thank you Mr Smart! I believe my son will get a half stocked, mule eared rifle for his shooting pleasure.

Ephraim · « **Reply #24 on:** October 31, 2011, 07:34:13 PM »

O Jan took pic's at the cla show at Museum of Appalachin in Tn. I had almost forget I got the lock kit from Lew Wiesel off this site. The one I sent I found in a junk shop in IN. the guy didn't know what it was. he was thinking it was parts to a tool of some kind don't think he believed me when I told him what it was.
Ephraim

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Author Topic: sear material (Read 11386 times)

Daryl

keweenaw

Daryl

wmaser

wmaser

Ephraim

Ephraim

Ephraim

Ephraim

Ephraim