Ball moulding problem

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I am not new to ball moulding. But recently I started using a .490 double cavity Lyman mould with Lyman handles. I am having problems with the mould closing tightly, I have to tap the handles with a metal tool (lightly) to get the mould tight. If I don't do this i get a ball with flash around the seam. My old Lyman .440 and .075 (I think) were both single cavity moulds and just close and mould all day no problems. Another problem with the double cavity mould is I keep getting a buildup of lead around the pour holes under the cutter.  I may be wrong but I think I recall that my old .040 mould had a split ring washer on the cutter screw the new mould has only a washer. Would that make a difference?

[SCLoyalist]

In the last year or two, I've experienced the same problem with new Lee molds.  If you don't see any obvious problems with the tightness of any of the screws or bolts that hold the handle halves together and attach block to handle, you might try laying the  mold blocks up atop your lead pot as you go to close in prep for the next pour.   It works for me with the Lees and seems to help the two mold blocks index properly.   Good luck.  SCL

[Daryl]

If the blocks are loose on the handles, then one or both the alignment pins are probably protruding excessively.  With a hammer and punch, you can seat them slightly deeper. Usually it's only one that's causing the stickiness.

I loosen off the sprue plate - it is quite loose, not even snug, certainly not held tightly. When I pour, I hold the dipper against it, which holds it flat against the plate - or when the lead it up to temp, pour from above. With a bottom pour pot, the plate wants to sit flat, and does. Lead does not harden above the flat sitting plate.

Sounds as if yours is bent & arches up when the screw is tightened. I cast with a loose screw -  

I use thick, heavily padded gloves - for opening the plate - not a mallet, hammer or stick. Use of any tool on the sprue plate is the reason for bent sprue plates.  I use a hammer handle (same one for 30 years now) for tapping the hindge pin to drop out balls that stick slightly.  I use Rapine mould prep or MsMoly spray in the blocks to prevent lead sticking and to help the balls drop out. Both work better than candle or lighter soot.

[Harnic]

If you are using the old style, small Lyman handles with new moulds (which all require large handles now), they won't close completely.

[Daryl]

Seems to me I had to file my new Lyman handles down to fit my older moulds. As received,t hey were too thick on the tines, which caused binding.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I loosen off the sprue plate - it is quite loose, not even snug, certainly not held tightly. When I pour, I hold the dipper against it, which holds it flat against the plate - or when the lead it up to temp, pour from above. With a bottom pour pot, the plate wants to sit flat, and does. Lead does not harden above the flat sitting plate.

Sounds as if yours is bent & arches up when the screw is tightened. I cast with a loose screw - 

I use thick, heavily padded gloves - for opening the plate - not a mallet, hammer or stick. Use of any tool on the sprue plate is the reason for bent sprue plates.  I use a hammer handle (same one for 30 years now) for tapping the hindge pin to drop out balls that stick slightly.  I use Rapine mould prep or MsMoly spray in the blocks to prevent lead sticking and to help the balls drop out. Both work better than candle or lighter soot.

Rapine and MsMoly spray? Where can I get those, will they cure the problem of lead sticking to the mould?  I'll check to see if tappin in the registration pins will help some.

[Daryl]

Try: world wide web buffaloarms dot com. They used to sell the Rapine stuff. I got the MS moly from Wholesale Sports cot com in Alberta (I think).

Clean all the lead off the mould and spray it down, let the stuff dry and cast away. Lead will not stick to the moly nor the graphite material of Rapine's mould prep.

[Harnic]

I use silicone spray on all my moulds.  Apply it when the mould is cold & let it dry.  Just rest the mould on the edge of the pot to preheat next session & cast when ready.  Within a dozen or so balls, the mold is throwing good clean balls.  After you finish, just spray the blocks when cool & store.  No more de-greasing.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I found Rapines Lube on Dixie Gun works site. Ordered a can last night.

[Daryl]

With a mold prepped with Rapine or moly - there is no degreasing and no more spraying with anything. It is coated only once and that's all there is to do.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Rapine Mould Prep is no longer available. Mr. Rapine who owned the company retired a couple years back. The order I placed at DGW was cancelled. I found a graphite/Alchohol spray at Midway (Frankford Arsenal Drop Out) which looked like a solution so ordered that.

[Daryl]

That graphite/alcohol spray might work - Spray it on and then after it dries, try rubbing it off with a finger. To be useful on the mould blocks, it must be practically permanent.

One of the moly sprays intended as a lube, will wipe off like dry erase felt pen. The ones designed for spraying bullets for moly coating are the ones I used.

I've tried 3- 2 were successful: Ms. Moly was good.  Either Hoppe's Moly in a spray can, or Birchwood Casey's Moly spray was the other that worked.  I don't have either cans any more, so cannot check their labels.  That will possibly tell the story - whichever is for spraying bullets, is the one to spray your mould with.

[Maven]

Micah, et. al.,  Next time you're in the vicinity of a NAPA auto parts store, see if they still stock dry graphite film (graphite in an alcohol-based aerosol can).  They used to call it DGF 123.  It helps improve casting in iron (Meehanite) -, but not aluminum molds.  The other good news is that it is less expensive than Midway's product and can easily be removed with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol.  However, it will decrease the diameter of a given cast bullet, including a RB, if applied too heavily.