Keeping Carving Tools Sharp

[Harris]

What would be best to use for keeping carving tools sharp?  I appericate and value each and every ones ideas and views on here thank you all and for your time Ken.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I make sure I start out a carving job with chisels that have a slight hollow grind, and a honed and polished edge.  As they dull, I just give them a quick lick on a leather strop impregnated with French Rough, or a buffing wheel with white Aluminum Oxide.  But if they need it, I re-hone them.  It is disastrous to try to carve with dull tools.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I am no master carver but the guy that taught me is.  The secret is not to let them dull to begin with.  Take a few strokes and then back to the strop or fine stone.  I use water stones.  Wallace Gussler's video on carving has a good section on sharpening.  

Coryjoe

[Harris]

Thanks Cory and Taylor for the good advice i figure its always better to ask because i didnt want to just jump in and destroy my only set of carving tools. I thank you and for your good advice each and every one on here thanks and for your time Ken.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I make sure I start out a carving job with chisels that have a slight hollow grind, and a honed and polished edge.  As they dull, I just give them a quick lick on a leather strop impregnated with French Rough, or a buffing wheel with white Aluminum Oxide.  But if they need it, I re-hone them.  It is disastrous to try to carve with dull tools.

I try to do this as well. Even very sharp chisels can use a quick strop before you use them. Kind of like the days of using straight razors, you wouldn't touch your face with one without a quick strop first. Another thing I do is check to see if the cutting edge will hang on a finger nail, if it doesn't it's dull.

[Harris]

Thanks Micah for the reply thats a very good statement you made checking the sharpness of your carving tools if it will hang your finger nail its sharp it makes very good sence to me thanks and for your time Ken.

[FALout]

It's hard to believe, but carving tools can lose their edge with time, so keeping them from contacting each other or other tools is important as well as oiling them up for storage.  One thing you can do is buy clear plastic tubing of different sizes, cut short lengths and slide over the sharp edge, carefull so you don't cut yourself, this will keep from dinging them up but you will be able to see which knife your looking for.

[Tim Crosby]

 See if this helps: http://americanlongrifles.org/old_board/index.php?topic=33.0


 Tim C.

[Dave B]

I agree with whats been said. A quick strop for the carving tool before use will work wonders. Keeping them protected and not just loose in a drawer with other tools is every bit important. Working over a floor mat will also keep you from dropping the tool on to the cement shop floor and causing you to have to re touch the whole edge of the tool. I use a tool roll for my chisels to keep them separate from each other. Buying the highest quality steel tools is very obvious when it comes to how long they hold an edge. Its amaizing how a couple of passes with the strop will keep them cutting cleanly.

[Jerry V Lape]

Something you might like to try versus the traditional sharpening systems is Microfinishing film from 3M.  I use 40micron silicon carbide for initial sharpening, then 15Micron, 5 micron, 1 micron and lastly .3 micron.  Not sure the last two are necessary - will find out once I run out of them.  I got a sample pack from Toolsforworkingwood.com.  For the work surface, a polished granite tile as used in flooring and countertops is flat enough.  Never have I had tools this sharp.  When working with the chisels periodically I go to the granite with the 5 micron and 1 micron to touch up the edge.  After taking a class with Jim Kibler I learned what I thought was a sharp chisel or gouge was inadequate.  This stuff gets it done.  There are some youtube videos which show how.  Look for titles for Scary Sharp.  Some are better than others.  Essentially for about $20 I can replace all the stones and hones and strops and no longer worry about flattening stones etc.  Some of the grits come in pressure sensitive adhesive on the back side so you can peel and stick.

[wmaser]

I was surprised to find that plain cardboard , from a cardboard box, makes a pretty fine strop for freshening the edge while carving.

[FRJ]

I am a fantic about sharp things being sharp. The one thing I do with knives, broadheads, and chisles is to strop them every time I take  them out even if its just to look at them. When working with them I keep a stroping block on the bench and strop them every few strokes. Keeps them scary sharp which in my humble opinion is the only way  to go. Frank

[Harris]

I want to thank everyone for all the good advice and for your time this has been very helpful thanks Ken.

[TMerkley]

If you can find a piece of porcelein, that is smooth with out the glazed finish, this works as well as a soft Arknsas.  Those two are my best for a sarp edge.  I have only done a little bit with the chisels, but on knife blades that I have sharpened, they do well. 

[Dphariss]

I make sure I start out a carving job with chisels that have a slight hollow grind, and a honed and polished edge.  As they dull, I just give them a quick lick on a leather strop impregnated with French Rough, or a buffing wheel with white Aluminum Oxide.  But if they need it, I re-hone them.  It is disastrous to try to carve with dull tools.

Like Taylor says. But I use Mothers Chrome polish on the strop
Mine hangs vertically in a doorway.

Dan

Against the frame, not loose.

[Longshot]

Very fine Silicone carbide paper on wet glass is pretty simple and effective.  Google 'Scary sharp'; system components and instructions should come up.
I'm also using progressive diamond stones, and find them convenient, effective and nearly maintenance free.
Tormek is expensive, but tough to beat if you have to regrind a bevel

[Jim Kibler]

Not exactly sure if you are interested in how to best keep carving tools sharp or ways to sharpen them.  

As to keeping them sharp I would say:
-Avoid contact with other metal tools (previously mentioned)
-Use carving tools for carving and not heavier inletting work etc.  as tools which work well for carving are often sharpened to a shallower angle than those for heavier work.
-Seperate locations where metal work and wood work is done.  Tips of sharpened tools often become magnetic and will pick up fine bits of iron or steel.  When the sharpened tool is used this metal can damage the edge.
-Sharpen to the steepest angle that still works well in use.   Like all things, this is a compromise between ease of use and how the edge holds up.
-Don't pry or scrape with tools.
-Use good quality tools.

In my experience carving tools end up requiring sharpening more due to small scale edge damage than just wear.  I don't seperate metal and wood work locations, but would like to at some point.  I also use carving tools for heavier inletting work at times.  I pay by having to sharpen more frequently.

As to sharpening I beleive there are many good techniques and materials to use.  I would caution that although stroping can be good, too much can round the cutting edge.  Using hard leather wood etc. helps.  Also having the stroping material well supported is a good thing.