Pouring pewter nosecap pics

[Meteorman]

This is my second effort at this.  On a Pecatonica pre-turned.
Took pics along the way.
Following Ken G.'s excellent tutorial:http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4669.0





























last image shows the three through-holes to anchor the poured cap to the wood.

Now it's just file away to finished dimension.

I intentionally delayed my operation of cutting the last 3/4" off my barrel (to dampen the swamp look on this TN) until after this task - that gave me more breathing room for the pour without worrying about a down-bore disaster.

Thanks again Ken !  Your tutorial is working well for me so far.  

/mike

[ironwolf]

  I've found that you get a better fit without the cardstock under the barrel.

  Kevin

[Long Ears]

Perfect timing Meteor Man! I just ordered the pewter for my first try at this. Thanks, Bob

[Dphariss]

On a light recoiling rifle this may hold OK but its better to have full diameter holes with a counter sink in the barrel channel.
These things WILL pull loose if not seriously anchored if the weapon generates much recoil. Pistols can be very bad for this.

I would cast a band(s) all the way under the barrel from side to side with a couple of holes to help them fill.
I have had them come loose in shaping.
So I learned to take precautions.

Dan

[Ted Kramer]

I second Dan's suggestions. Anchor the casting well and it'll stay put.

Dan,

Many years ago (1998?) you had an article in the BPC News about casting a  tip on a '74 Sharps fore stock. At the time I was stocking a '74 barreled action so I followed your instructions to the letter and the tip is still nice and tight.   I've used the same methods on many muzzle loader stocks with the same good results. Thought I'd say thanks for the instruction.

Ted K

[David R. Pennington]

How much pewter does it take for a nosecap? Thinking about trying one but want to make sure I have enough pewter on hand first. What is best source for pewter?

[Dphariss]

How much pewter does it take for a nosecap? Thinking about trying one but want to make sure I have enough pewter on hand first. What is best source for pewter?

A pound is nice but 1/2 pound will often work. Much more is poured than is left on the gun in most cases.
I use Silvabrite 100 solder. It pours pretty good and is virtually the same as some of the old non-toxic pewters.
Color is good and it does not darken if the rifle is stored for some time as lead alloys will.
http://www.silvaloy.com/silvabrite100.php
But I have a harder time finding it than I used to and any similar solder alloy will work as well. But some are far too white rather than silver colored if this makes any sense.

Dan

[Roger Fisher]

I do recall some guy had a bad pour (did not fill in the Herschel style tiger stripes) and he melted the bad pour off the stock in kitchen oven and set the stock on fire... Ended up running around in the kitchen in a robe and flip flops trying to blow out the flames.      Second try worked out fine... After he deepend said stripes...

[Dphariss]

I do recall some guy had a bad pour (did not fill in the Herschel style tiger stripes) and he melted the bad pour off the stock in kitchen oven and set the stock on fire... Ended up running around in the kitchen in a robe and flip flops trying to blow out the flames.      Second try worked out fine... After he deepend said stripes...

Wood burns at about the temp the pewter melts.  Heating a stock in the oven over 150 degrees is REALLY not recommended. Shrinkage is a pretty good bet.
Best to melt the metal away with a hot copper or brass punch heated with a torch. I use the same to solder up flaws if not too extensive. BUT its possible to scorch the wood with the punch unless careful.
The second pour usually pours much better since the wood is dryer and there are fewer bubbles and such.
Its always best to heat the barrel till too hot to touch where the pour will contact it since the barrel is heat sink that will suck the heat out of the melt and ruin the pour.
Heating the wood in the pour area with a hair drier or more carefully with a heat gun is also advised.

Dan

[David R. Pennington]

Thanks, good insight. Makes sense to preheat the barrel. Next question is what type of rifle would have pewter nose. I know a lot of later halfstocks did, but what about earlier fullstocks. The one I'm working on is supposed to be an early southern rifle and the drawing I have shows pewter nosecap. Is this apprpriate?

[Dphariss]

Thanks, good insight. Makes sense to preheat the barrel. Next question is what type of rifle would have pewter nose. I know a lot of later halfstocks did, but what about earlier fullstocks. The one I'm working on is supposed to be an early southern rifle and the drawing I have shows pewter nosecap. Is this apprpriate?

I don't do pewter on FS guns.

But they were done on southern Mtn rifles. But I don't do southern Mtn rifles.
The typical southern Mtn/Tenn. rifle recreated today are contemporary to most of the 1830-1850 halfstocks made in Missouri and farther north. They are not "early" in the context of the Kentucky rifle.

Dan

[Robby]

I use copper foil, like that used in roof flashing,  to form the mold instead of cardboard. It seems form easier, and take the heat better along with the barrel.
Robby

[Don Getz]

Just did one on a Tenn. that I am now building..........came out pretty good on the THIRD try.    Will get back to my barn
guns, then won't have to do this again.............Don

[jimc2]

Great looking gun tho don.