locking down the flint

[hortonstn]

i am having trouble keeping the flint tight in the jaws they are silers from jim chambers what are the tricks
thanks
paul

[Roger Fisher]

First thing I'd look at is whether or not you are using a shiney hard leather.  I find that the suede type leather works better.    And, are you trying to use a spaul (humped backed flint) or a nice flat topped flint??    A diamond file or stone can be used to work a flat section on top of said flint.

[T*O*F]

Soak your leather in water until it's thoroughly wetted.  Fold it in half and cut a notch out of the back, so the flint will rest directly against the screw.  Tighten it down and trim.  After the leather has dried, crank it down a turn or two more.  All the parts will have conformed to the leather and everything will be solid.

The use of spongy leather and a flint not backed by the screw will result in a loose flint after a few shots.

[Roger Fisher]

Soak your leather in water until it's thoroughly wetted.  Fold it in half and cut a notch out of the back, so the flint will rest directly against the screw.  Tighten it down and trim.  After the leather has dried, crank it down a turn or two more.  All the parts will have conformed to the leather and everything will be solid.

The use of spongy leather and a flint not backed by the screw will result in a loose flint after a few shots.

He's right Hort, I left the best advice out

[blunderbuss]

 I use sheet lead, bend the sides of the lead down .It holds the flint tighter and won't catch fire. I've even flattened a round ball . Cut a hole in the sheet lead so the  back of the flint fits close to the screw.

[hanshi]

LEATHER FOREVER!

[Bill of the 45th]

Oh Gosh, the Lead/Leather argument, I think the second  to the Golden Mean.   Doesn't the EPA require an environmental impact statement if you use lead, or is that only in California.  What Roger, and TOF said, and yes occasionally you have to tighten up or replace the leather.  Roundball will probably pipe in that he likes soft Elk hide, and I totally agree, that's what I use.  There's a lot going on when a flint strikes a frizzen, and stuff loosens up.

Bill

[hortonstn]

thank you for the tips i didn't know a diamond file would flatten the hump,
i do use leather.
paul

[54Bucks]

 I've always thought that the key to keeping a flint locked in the jaws starts with relatively flat/parallel surfaces on the flint to match the jaws. It's a rare english flint, and to a lesser extent one of Rich's white flints, that comes with flat paralell upper and lower flint surfaces. That's why I've made it a practice to use a diamond embedded dremel type bit that is at least as long as the flint to quickly put relatively flat surfaces on a new flint to start with. It makes the type of leather you use less important. But I do agree the softer suede type leather does work better. Depending on the length of ones flints and their lock jaws to frizzen length. The best scenario would also have the flint back against the jaw screw.

[Daryl]

I use either - and always have a spare leather and lead strip in a bag pocket with the spare flints. They both work very well at holding the flint.  Be aware, lead can cause more broken flints in some strong locks as the flint strikes the frizzen somewhat harder, with less bounce, thus generally producing more sparks.  Some locks like lead some prefer leather.  I use the thin sheet from X-ray room walls, doubled - when I use lead.

[Simon]

Make sure the jaw screw is not to long and hitting the hammer.  I have had this problem with some thin flints.  Had to shorten the screw.

[Nate McKenzie]

Use a graver to give both top and bottom jaw some teeth.  Ten or twelve teeth on each is fine.

[camerl2009]

leather is the best lead was mostly used be the military

i use my home tanned deer hides its rough on both sides the stuff thats glossy dose not work too good

[curly]

I'm with Roundball on this one. I also use thick elk hide and have never had a problem with slipage or loosening of the flint. A tile saw with a dimond blade works well for reshaping or taking unwanted high spots off a flint as well.
Curly

[buffalo]

I use both,but that been said on a hunt late oct i lost flint an leather inna bush going to stand, took a 58 cal roundball outa my bag,flatend with my hawk on a rock an used said contraption for rest of the day, had no problem discharging at end of day, but did clean up edges of lead back at camp an stuck with lead wrap the rest of the week

[Pete G.]

One problem that is often overlooking is frizzen rebound. If it comes back far enough to whack the top of the flint every shot it will loosen things up. Check the top of your flint for a mark across the top. If that is the problem, then you have a whole new bag of stuff to tinker with.

[blunderbuss]

I use either - and always have a spare leather and lead strip in a bag pocket with the spare flints. They both work very well at holding the flint.  Be aware, lead can cause more broken flints in some strong locks as the flint strikes the frizzen somewhat harder, with less bounce, thus generally producing more sparks.  Some locks like lead some prefer leather.  I use the thin sheet from X-ray room walls, doubled - when I use lead.

DarylThat's exactly where I got my lead form an x ray room wall. Lead will hold good I've never had a problem with it I've used leather too both work. I don't think the military would have adopted lead if they didn't think it was better ,surely leather would be cheaper

[blunderbuss]

I've even used cloth when I ran out of anything else draw back there is you have to put it out every few shots or you'll have a match lock