ageing plain steel bbls.

[ramrod]

totally new to this metal finish. hows it done?

[smallpatch]

Not totally sure I understand the question. Are you talking about the gray, aged, not browned finish?

[WadePatton]

The "gray" look is generally from "rubbing back" one or more (usually more) layers of rust.  Rust agents can be used or not.  Sometimes even a damp box-for extreme humidity.

Some goes as far as using chlorine bleach to cause fast pitting.

always test on scraps and remember to take steps to protect the bore when necessary.

[smallpatch]

Wade,
Actually, it's a little more than rubbing back browning. I guess in the general sense, that's what it is, but a whole lot more work than that.
First the piece is browned to the point of pitting. The amount of pitting is determined by how aggressive you are with chemical, moisture, and temperature . The more pitting you have, the better the final product,in my opinion.
Then the work really begins,the rubbing back, is actually sanding every bit of that browning off, right down to the pitting. At that point, go back with a good cold bluing solution, and finally, steel wool off the bluing with a good preservative, (I use CLP), paying extra attention to the "wear areas".
That's pretty much how I was taught, and while a lot of work, it looks great.

[flehto]

What is a preservative and also CLP and what is it's purpose? Thanks.....Fred

[WadePatton]

That's how i got the look i wanted on the pieces i've done.  I've rubbed back cold blue solutions.  or Rubbed off.  and re-applied/repeated. 

Or one can let nature do it's thing on un-protected metal.  A dirty patch on white metal brings on some quick "color".

Fred "CLP"/"Break Free" is a US Military-developed/endorsed Cleaning/Lubrication/Preservative oil compound for guns and machinery.  It scored rather well in rust prevention testing done by a member here. It has been around for quite a few years.

[smallpatch]

Fred,

Wade is right.  I just use the CLP to prevent further rust.  It's a great product.  I use it inside the barrel as well after cleaning.

[flehto]

Thanks much to both...am thinking of "aging" the bbl and other parts on the present Bucks County.It's available in hardware stores?....Thanks again.....Fred

[smallpatch]

Fred,
Yes you can get Breakfree CLP just about anywhere. Every gunshop here has it.

[flehto]

Thanks a lot.....Fred

[Don Getz]

I have an English sporting rifle that I built over 20 years ago.  I left the barrel bright, no finish of any kind.   Right now it is
kind of a dull finish, no rust, and I have not used scotch brite on it, nothing.   Lock iand other hardware are the same, still
looks great...........Don

[Flint62Smoothie]

Wade,
Actually, it's a little more than rubbing back browning. I guess in the general sense, that's what it is, but a whole lot more work than that...

Any sample photos showing the progression?

[smallpatch]

Flint,
Here's one I just finished this way

[whetrock]

And how "bad" you let it get and how much you scrub off also depend on what you are hoping to suggest with the finish.  

Here's a link to a Jud Brennan piece with a fully "antique" finish.
http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2011/07/process-jud-brennan-2011.html

That degree of ageing is beyond what most guys would expect to carry around and shoot (unless you want to carry around a 200 year old museum piece). But it is one (extreme) end of the spectrum. Jud is a master at creating a patina suitable for museum pieces.
 

[WadePatton]

I agree, just a little bit beyond my comfort zone.  

images from Jud Brennan linked gun above:





simplified summary: rust it up, clean it up.  repeat if/as necessary. 

[Old Ford2]

In reply to Wade's previous post....SCARY!  let it rust that far??
End result looks good.
I have sand blasted the metal work, applied chlorine bleach, and even nitric acid near the nipple/ flash hole and lock area near ignition point to suggest years of neglect and use.
All the best!
Fred

[whetrock]

Another thing to notice about Jud's piece is that he rusted it while it was all together. So the final result looks like it should---like an attic piece that was found after having been neglected (with all the parts together) for many decades, and was then cleaned up while the parts were still all together.

The photos don't show the inner workings. They may show the same rust as does the outside. That's not something that a guy would want if he intended to shoot the gun. If you plan to shoot it, then (it would stand to reason) that it's best to keep the internals smooth as silk. But some such pieces are  commissioned by guys who never intend to shoot them. That may seem odd to a lot of us on the forum, but some guys are just collectors and not shooters. And it takes a fine artist to create a piece that could truly pass for an antique. (It's Jud's normal practice to engrave his name and the date on the top flat, lest anyone be confused as to what they are looking at.)

[whetrock]

For any of you who want to read an earlier thread that thoroughly discusses aging (pros, cons, philosophy, history of opinions, etc.)
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=1012.0

[whetrock]

Ramrod,
There is a very good summary of how to color a new barrel in Peter Alexander’s book, page 314-316. He discusses browning vs bluing, professional opinions about historical finishes, and pros-and-cons of aging.

Alexander, Peter A. 2002. The Gunsmith of Grenville County: Building the American Longrifle. Scurlock Publishing.

It’s a great book, full of helpful info. I think it's a great investment if you are just getting into this.
Whet

[WadePatton]

Ramrod,
There is a very good summary of how to color a new barrel in Peter Alexander’s book, page 314-316. He discusses browning vs bluing, professional opinions about historical finishes, and pros-and-cons of aging.

Alexander, Peter A. 2002. The Gunsmith of Grenville County: Building the American Longrifle. Scurlock Publishing.

It’s a great book, full of helpful info. I think it's a great investment if you are just getting into this.
Whet

Should be the first book anyone learning to  build buys.