While we are on a series of posts about heating and melting I thought I'd show you the propane forge burner I made yesterday. It is mostly plumbing parts. The burner tube is an 8" x 3/4" black iron nipple. It is bushed into a 1 1/2" tee. The other side of the tee has a threaded plug with a 9/16" hole in it for a 1/4" nipple with a cap on the inside end. The cap is drilled and tapped for a 1/4" x 28 thread and has a 0.035" MIG welder tip screwed into it for a propane orifice. A 10-32 set screw drilled and tapped in from the side of the plug holds the 1/4" nipple in place. I turned the nozzle from a 3/4" coupler so it has a 5 degree angle inside - that slows the gas slightly and stabilizes the flame. The pipe fitting partway down the burner tube is a 1 1/4" nipple with one end sawn off and three 3/8" setscrews threaded into it. That allows the whole thing to be mounted in the side of the forge body with a couple of ring nuts.
The rest is the standard propane fittings you can get at the hardware store or Tractor Supply. The regulator on the 20 lb. tank is a high pressure (1-60 psi) 400,000 BTU model. Note the use of yellow gas-compatible teflon tape.
After I finished it I realized that I could have used a shorter 1/4" nipple, but I wanted to be able to adjust the position of the orifice inside the tee. Accidentally got it right the first time.
In practice this would be inserted in the side of a metal cylinder (a freon can works well) with holes in the ends and lined with 2" of Kaowool insulation. All the parts together cost maybe $75, and about a third of that was the regulator. I think the plumbing parts were $35.
I gave this to my neighbor, who is an aspiring amateur blacksmith, and he is a happy camper. You can do a lot of forging and heat treating with a propane forge powered by one of these. A 20 pound tank will last 6-8 hours if it's not in a cold environment.
Note that the ball valve isn't fully open. Full blast gives a foot and a half of zombie-ready blue flame.