Anyone using a "Float"

[Paddlefoot]

I was poking around the Lie-Nielsen sight the other day looking for some blades to make some cabinetmakers planes and ran across mortising floats. I had heard of them for making planes(and truing up horse's teeth) but had never seen them used to make a precise mortise or tennon. L-N says theirs are made of s-7 steel hardened and tempered to rc 50 so you can resharpen them. Seemed to me that that a few custom made ones with cranked handles might be just the ticket for barrel channels and leveling out carved areas.

[Benedict]

I, too, have seen the listing in Lie-Nielsen about Floats.  From the description, it seemed that they might be useful.  Maybe I will get one for my Birthday and be able to try it.

Bruce

[George F.]

I haven't heard of a float, and I am pretty knowledgable with hand tools for working wood...I still don't understand what one is. One another note, for the builders that insist on using only or mostly hand tools, they have hand routers for removing wood from such inlets as flat side plates, lock plate inlets and toe plate inlets if you are so inclined.   ...Geo.

[Paddlefoot]

I guess the best description I could give is that a float is a sort of shaped rasp. The cutting teeth are filed on it so they cut on the push stroke. If you have ever seen the hoof rasp that a farrier uses to trim a horses hoof that is the layout for a float. The thickness is based on whatever the purpose of the tool is as is the location of the teeth. Planemakers floats are thin with parallel sides for leveling the blade bed and adjusting the mouth for the blade. They also have one with safe flats and teeth on the side for cutting the sides of the blade cavity. Other floats are more in line with a cabinetmakers rasp like a Nicholson 49 or 50 in size but they cut more like a scraper and are able to be resharpened by the user if you have the skill. I think a float would be just the ticket for those swamped barrel channels in a real curly piece of maple.

[Benedict]

I guess the best description I could give is that a float is a sort of shaped rasp. The cutting teeth are filed on it so they cut on the push stroke. If you have ever seen the hoof rasp that a farrier uses to trim a horses hoof that is the layout for a float. The thickness is based on whatever the purpose of the tool is as is the location of the teeth. Planemakers floats are thin with parallel sides for leveling the blade bed and adjusting the mouth for the blade. They also have one with safe flats and teeth on the side for cutting the sides of the blade cavity. Other floats are more in line with a cabinetmakers rasp like a Nicholson 49 or 50 in size but they cut more like a scraper and are able to be resharpened by the user if you have the skill. I think a float would be just the ticket for those swamped barrel channels in a real curly piece of maple.

Some of the "scrapers" that I have made for barrel channels must be "floats" then.  Although the teeth on them are straight rather than curved.

I was thinking about a float for stock shaping when you want a smoother finish than I get from my #50 rasp.

Bruce

[George F.]

Thanks Mr. Paddlefoot. I have a horse rasp (at least that's what I call it). Its like 12" long and 2 1/2" wide with large teeth, but not like a #49 or a #50. The other side has the teeth, again like the other side but the rows are aligned in a row with an arc. Do these floats come in different widths?  ...Geo.

[Paddlefoot]

Yeah, Thats the idea. The ones Lie-Nielson sells come in different sizes from 1/8" up to an inch or so. They have them that cut on a push or a pull. Not trying to bash anyones tools or methods just asking if anyone has tried this. It looked like a useful tool to me. I could see using one to get nice flat areas on a buttstock or keeping the forestock an even thickness without waves in it. I may go get some s-7 and see about making a couple to try out.

[George F.]

I use it for straightening the lock and side plate panels, as well as the toe. For the for stock i use a cabinet scraper and files to even everything out. This Lie-nelson float, is this on their web site, or like on Woodcraft?  P.S. I just looked on their web site and  now I see what they are.   ...Geo.

[FlintRock Rob]

I have one of the L-N Face Floats, about 1" wide, bent handle, push stroke.

It works sorta like a plane, and glides lightly over the wood to take a cut. I got it at a tool demo that Lie-Nielsen had in town a couple of years ago. The guy doing the demo was the lead designer and showed me how to use one correctly. I was pushing too hard and making it chatter. It's not like a rasp that rips across grain in about any direction, but it sure cuts well with the grain, and on lighter strokes cuts across the grain too.

At the time I also ordered an Auriou modeller's rasp from Mr. Michel Auriou who was there demoing how he used them to cut the cheekpiece of a gunstock he was working on. I love that small rasp.

If you get a chance to go to one of Lie-Nielsen's tool demos I highly recommend it. Was pretty neat being able to try almost every tool they make, on real wood, with the tool makers right there to explain the best way to use the tool. And, they didn't pressure me to buy anything, very relaxed. The Oregon one was at a winery, so that made it even more interesting.

[Paddlefoot]

Thanks Rob. Nice to hear that it works well. I will have to check for the one with the bent handle, I didn't notice one on the L-N website. I have heard great things about those Aurio rasps too....pretty pricey though. Anyone interested in them can find them at Highlandwoodworking.com  or the best things.com

[FlintRock Rob]

I think Auriou is out of business now. Which is probably a good thing, since that rasp was not cheap and I'd really like a couple other sizes.

On the floats, I haven't seen any narrower than 1", so too wide for barrel channels, but on flat areas really nice. I haven't looked beyond LN for floats, but maybe someone makes a narrower one?

Hey, here's a tutorial on how to make a float- http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/node/18

[LynnC]

The file with the deep curved teeth.  I thought it was called a float, never sure though.  Used back in the days of lead body filler on cars.  Man, talk about taking some metal off quick when drawfiling a barrel.  Really takes the mill marks off fast.  Works on wood too!............................Lynn

[Randy Hedden]

The file with the deep curved teeth.  I thought it was called a float, never sure though.  Used back in the days of lead body filler on cars.  Man, talk about taking some metal off quick when drawfiling a barrel.  Really takes the mill marks off fast.  Works on wood too!............................Lynn

Lynn,

The files you are talking about are called "Vixen" files. A standard file for auto body work and meant to be used for softer material like lead, plastics or body putty.

Randy Hedden

www.harddogrifles.com

[LynnC]

Randy - I think your right.  I remember using them on aluminum castings many years ago.  Perhaps I'm thinking of another tool.

The horse rasps I've seen have rasp teeth on one side and those full width curved teeth on the other.  I guess thats why I associated it with a float.

Anyway, a sharp "Vixen" file will drawfile both steel and wood and leave a smooth surface.........................................Lynn

[Paddlefoot]

Yeah a Vixen file has the same sort of teeth and are flexible too with the right handles.  The float info I saw appeared to have teeth straight across on them. The thing that interested me was that you can sharpen them yourself so you could probably make them to size to fit a special situation. The Auriou rasps are being made  again under the TBT brand and The Best Things has them...they are not cheap. Thanks for the info on making the float Rob.

[FlintRock Rob]

Paddlefoot, thanks for that tip on finding the the old Auriou files on The Best Things site.

[DutchGramps]

This is an old Dutch arsenal tool I have; it was used to finish inletting round barrels. Works very well.