Method to shorten flint

[wet willy]

Suggestions on shortening a flint so it does not touch the frizzen at half cock.

I've a Pedersoli Harpers Ferry pistol, and my flints of the correct width are too long and prevent the frizzen from fully closing over the pan by 1/8" or so. Sparks OK so I'm reluctant to bend the frizzen forward or tinker with the tumbler half cock notch. I don't have the knapping skills to shorten the beveled face, so what to do?

Some suggested cutting/bending/rewelding the cock, but that is not only beyond my skill level but would change the lock geometry and perhaps not spark as well.

My other locks (Davis, L&R, Siler) leave at least 1/16" gap or more at half cock between the flint and a closed frizzen.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Place your flint on the edge of the workbench, flat side (bottom) up, and overhanging the edge of the bench by 1/8" or so.  Hold the flint down HARD with your thumb, and with a hammer in the other hand, strike the back corner (the end that does not strike the frizzen) with short hard strokes of a small light hammer.  You'll drive a flake off that corner...continue across the flint 'til you reach the other side.  Accuracy and confidence helps a lot.  You should be able to reduce the length of the flint as much as you need with one pass.

Don't be tempted to use your grinder...you'll overheat the flint and it will explode...ask me how I know this.

[Acer Saccharum]

I've held a flint in thick leather in my vise, and with a brass punch and hammer, chipped off flakes, working my way across the flint as Taylor described.

Saves your thumbs for other things. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I've done it that way too Tom, and I use a copper bopper for that job.

[Acer Saccharum]

DO wear eye protection, the wee flint flakes are HORRIBLY sharp.

A copper bopper? Is that a night stick? 

[Hungry Horse]

 You don't have to shorten the flint. You simply have to notch it so it straddles the jaw screw. This can easily be done with a small, shop made, shouldered punch, made from a piece of mild steel rod about 3/16" diameter.

                   Hungry Horse

[Tim Hamblen]

We've been having quite the luck using a glass cutter and glass pliers. You can get both at Hobby Lobby and the like. We knap our own flints from nodules found in the area and use the glass cutter and pliers to trim them down. Regular pliers won't work (once you see glass pliers you'll understand )

[rich pierce]

I'm not a fan of choosing flints by their width.  Length is more important.  A flint narrower than the frizzen is no problem. A flint wider than the frizzen but the right length is just mounted offset in the jaws to the outside so it doesn't bash the barrel.  It will work fine.

[RAT]

We might be over thinking this gents...

First question... are you using leather or sheet lead to hold the flint? First try notching the leather to clear the top jaw screw. Basically just unfold the leather and punch a hole in the middle. That may give you just enough room to close the frizzen.

[Acer Saccharum]

Jim Chambers warns of using lead for holding the flint. The cock can snap at the neck due to the increased weight.

Flint is super easy to shape by chipping. If I chip some off from one side, I flip the flint over to chip from the other, to keep things even.

[smallpatch]

Often times, the problem with flint length is the leather wrap "behind" the flint. Doesn't allow the flint to go all the way back to the cock screw. Notch the leather with a leather punch, it will in effect shorten the flint.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Since I punch a hole in my flint leather as a matter of course, I assumed Willy was starting at that point, and still needed to shorten his flint.

[Ky-Flinter]

Hi Willy,

I don't know how many flints you need to resize, but if it's a lot, what about posting a "Want to Trade" ad with measurements here on ALR?  Another member may have a bag full of flints that are too short for his gun, but perfect for yours.  Just a thought.

-Ron

[EC121]

I bought a sack full of Mizzy wheels for my Dremel.  They cut the flint without heating it a lot.  That and notching the leather will make most flints work.

[wet willy]

Rich, thanks for the comment. Yes, I've tried much narrower flints (1/2") but still too long. And yes, I've tried the notched leather flint holder ... still too long.

Seems like so many ideas already this must be a common problem.

But what is the "shoulder punch" already mentioned. Looks like a good idea?

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

[EC121]

     I        I   A shoulder punch is a rod turned with a small shoulder to chip the edge of
     I        I   the flint.  The edge of the flint rests on the tit and the shoulder catches
     I_   _ I   edge of the flint and chips it off.  The depth of the shoulder determines
        I_I      how big a bite it will take.  You can make one with a file and a bolt
                   turned in a drill.

[Ky-Flinter]

There's a discussion of it and a drawing in this thread....  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=32565.0

-Ron

[draken]

I bought a sack full of Mizzy wheels for my Dremel.  They cut the flint without heating it a lot.  That and notching the leather will make most flints work.

Okay, I gotta' ask.   What is a MIZZY wheel?

[Acer Saccharum]

Dust from flint would be BAD to breathe.

[omark]

I bought a sack full of Mizzy wheels for my Dremel.  They cut the flint without heating it a lot.  That and notching the leather will make most flints work.

Okay, I gotta' ask.   What is a MIZZY wheel?

Thanks Dick, I don't know either.         Mark

[EC121]

I think Mizzy is a brand name of the manufacturer.  Same material as a green stone wheel.  They come in a variety of diameters and thicknesses to fit hand grinders.   I got mine from Esslinger Co.  I use two fans in close to make a cross draft to avoid the dust.  I Googled "flint grinding".  They are about 10/ $4 depending on the size.  They have a brass center for a 1/16" screw in a Dremel arbor.  One wheel will do approx. 4-5 flints.  Depends on how much you cut on each flint.

[Hawken62_flint]

Never really thought a lot about methods to do it and have always just used a pair of pliers to chip off the back end of the flint---in some cases, just a notch in the middle of the flint where it hits the top jaw screw (this done with a pair of needle nose pliers).  Especially if you are out on the range and don't have a vise or a bench to work with---a pair of pliers will do the trick. 

[Hungry Horse]

 I think you guys using all this modern equipment are overthinking this problem. We are talking about a 1 minute fix with simple tools, not brain surgery.

                    Hungry Horse

[Dphariss]

I usually just flake a notch at the back of the flint to allow more clearance for the top jaw screw. Same basic process as Taylor described. In the field it can be done on a rock if one is available.

Dan

[rich pierce]

A 3" piece of 1/2" threaded steel rod works like a charm for jobs like this and no skill is required. Hold between thumb and forefinger and slash downward at the edge that needs shortening.  It is like micro knapping with dozens of tiny flakes coming off efficiently, and it's impossible to mess up and overdo it.  Or use a longer threaded bolt held in the whole hand.