Reconditioning an oldish barrel for a new build?

[Hemo]

About 25 years ago, I was given a .54 caliber Getz barrel, swamped, 38 inches long, from a fellow who once had plans to build a rifle but never started. This barrel sat untouched for the last quarter of a century and acquired a fine dusting of rust externally and inside the bore during that time. I am about to start a new build, and I'm arguing with myself about whether to use this barrel. The bore has square-bottomed rifling which appears fairly sharp, except for the fine coating of reddish-brown powdery stuff. I am planning to make a Berks County Leonard Reedy style gun. Most of Reedy's pieces measured about 40-42 inches long. I am looking for a nudge in one direction or another as to whether to buy a new barrel or go with this paid-for barrel which is slightly short and has some fine rust in the bore. If I polish or lap the bore and clean it up would it shoot well? Or should I buy a new longer clean barrel of a more HC length? Any nudges or advice appreciated.

Hemo

[JTR]

Slightly short can sometimes make a Big difference in the look you're trying for!

Before doing anything, I'd clean up the bore to see if using it is even feasible.

John

[B.Habermehl]

Give it a good scrubbing with four ought steel wool on a jag. See how the bore cleans up. It's likely just fine, the outside of the barrel is meaningless as far as finish is concerned, you will draw file and probably polish some before browning when finishing the gun. BJH

[Pete G.]

A slightly rough barrel seems to shoot just fine with a patched ball, and will over time, smooth out somewhat. Perhaps not exactly what you would want to start with if building a match quality rifle, but for most shooting you should be fine as long as the barrel is not pitted.

[Don Getz]

BJ..........scotch brite still works better than 0000 steel wool.  Looks like it will probably
clean up quickly.    As for which gun to make using this barrel, it is the same barrel
we used in the Isaac Haines kit.  I doubt there ever was an Isaac Haines built with a
barrel like this, but they feel and balance so nice..........Don

[jamesthomas]

About 25 years ago, I was given a .54 caliber Getz barrel, swamped, 38 inches long, from a fellow who once had plans to build a rifle but never started. This barrel sat untouched for the last quarter of a century and acquired a fine dusting of rust externally and inside the bore during that time. I am about to start a new build, and I'm arguing with myself about whether to use this barrel. The bore has square-bottomed rifling which appears fairly sharp, except for the fine coating of reddish-brown powdery stuff. I am planning to make a Berks County Leonard Reedy style gun. Most of Reedy's pieces measured about 40-42 inches long. I am looking for a nudge in one direction or another as to whether to buy a new barrel or go with this paid-for barrel which is slightly short and has some fine rust in the bore. If I polish or lap the bore and clean it up would it shoot well? Or should I buy a new longer clean barrel of a more HC length? Any nudges or advice appreciated.

Hemo

 If it just has some "fine rust in the bore" you probably good to go, its that deep hard rust that you have to worry about. As some has said just run some 0000 steel wool or some scotch-brite  down it and it should be good to go.

[JTR]

About 38 inches or so is what a lot of original flint rifles were cut back to when they were converted to percussion.
How about making your rifle as a flint, that had been converted to percussion? Maybe be adventurous and use the flint hammer with a striker clamped in the jaws to hit the cap?

John

[Hemo]

Thanks to all for your responses! I'll hit the bore with some Scotchbrite and see how it looks. Then I'll do some soul searching as to whether it would look wrong at 38 inches. I agree it will probably hold and balance better than 42 inches. But I don't think I'll make it as a cut down percussion conversion. I want to stay with flint, and just yesterday got a Chambers late Ketland flint lock with a roller frizzen spring, to put it in the 1800-1810 time frame.

Hemo

[jamesthomas]

 Hemo, do you have any pictures of the barrel and bore? it might give us a better idea on what you have to work on.

[Gene Carrell]

A few years ago I purchased a rifle off this site that had been stored for several years without any attention. It had a Getz 36 cal. bbl. The first patch down the bbl. came out red and believe me I was sick. I contacted the seller (not the owner) and we agreed that I could shoot it to determine if I would keep the rifle. With 45gr 3Fg powder, 0.350rb and 0.018 oiled patch, all shots touch at 50yds. You can feel a slight roughness when cleaning, but it just keeps on doing the same thing. With surface rust, no pitting, I'd give it a try.

[moleeyes36]

Thanks to all for your responses! I'll hit the bore with some Scotchbrite and see how it looks. Then I'll do some soul searching as to whether it would look wrong at 38 inches. I agree it will probably hold and balance better than 42 inches. But I don't think I'll make it as a cut down percussion conversion. I want to stay with flint, and just yesterday got a Chambers late Ketland flint lock with a roller frizzen spring, to put it in the 1800-1810 time frame.

Hemo

Rather than Scotchbrite, you might think about fire lapping the bore.  Try using a medium or fine grit lapping powder applied to a wet patch, your normal size ball and about a half (or less) charge of powder.  After shooting a few rounds like this check the bore for roughness.  If there is still roughness, repeat the process until the roughness is gone or at least greatly reduced.  This is a much more controllable process than running Scotchbrite up and down the bore.

Mole Eyes

[smallpatch]

Hey,  I've got a great idea!! The guy that built that barrel, Don Getz, probably knows more about barrels than any 20 others on this site. I think I'd listen to HIS advice.
Just sayin.

[Don Getz]

Here's how I would scrub the bore using scotchbrite.  I would use either the green stuff
that you can get in a grocery store, or maroon from whereever.   You said it was a 54
I believe.   Cut a piece about 2" x 3".   Tape the 3" side to a 3/8" ramrod, wrap it
tightly around the rod, and push it in.  If it's too tight, trim it with a scissors until it wil
go in the bore.  I normally used the stuff dry, but you can add some oil.   It will not
remove metal, but you will be amazed at how well it will shine that barrel.......Don

[Jerry V Lape]

Don gave me the same advice about 10 years ago and I still use scotchbrite to cleanup bores.  I like to lube it with some oil or bore cleaner and I change the pad at least once. 

[Hemo]

I went through the bore a hundred or so times with a tight wad of Scotchbrite, as Don suggested, and now the bore looks quite bright and shiny. I don't see any evidence of pitting inside. A couple of spots on the outer flats have some very shallow small dark pits, but nothing a little drawfiling can't correct. The barrel appears quite satisfactory for use.
(I'd consider fire lapping it at some point if necessary, but at present it would be hard to fire, since the stock is still nonexistent, and there isn't even a touchhole yet!)
My only concern now is that the 38 inch length might look a little weird, but as previously pointed out, there are some nice kits out there, including the Chambers Isaac Haines kit, that come with a 38 inch barrel. (I'll be starting with a square plain blank, not a precarve or kit though.) Now its a question of functional balance and a free barrel versus historical correctness and looks and the cost of a new longer barrel. Opinions welcome!

Hemo (Gregg)

[B.Habermehl]

Glad the barrel came out smooth. As far as historical correctness is concerned think early. 38 inches is not out of the norm. And as far as balance is concerned your barrel will really make a sweet hunting gun. Good luck.BJH