Author Topic: tuning a lock  (Read 2702 times)

Offline thecapgunkid

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tuning a lock
« on: December 04, 2014, 06:36:31 PM »
I posted elsewhere about customizing a Pedersoli Jager, part of the process being that the lock needed a little tuning because it came down like John Hardy's hammer and there was a wear streak that described an arc where a small tit on the inside of the frizzen rubbed the barrel.

Fixed that last part.

Polished some of the parts internally after watching Hershel House, a couple of other videos and a post or two here and in ALR.

Took some metal a little bit at a time off the edges and bevels of the main and frizzen spring and lightened the action some, and then lost my nerve. I don't know how to measure progress and judge how far is too far.

It is still stiff, sparks OK, but there is room to make the action a little lighter and improve the spark.

You guys can envision the nightmare...right? New gun on the trail walk holding everybody up in spite of the fact that you can swear you shot it at the range...

Outside of..."leave it alone"...or..."bring it to an expert"...(which are options) I want to get it to that point where the scraping of the flint is a little gentler and the thunk is turned into that bouncy action a good lock has and will take a few risks because I now know where to get parts.

Procedural Advice or references would be welcome.

Thanks

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: tuning a lock
« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2014, 08:13:02 PM »
A flintlock is supposed to have a good stiff mainspring, but it must be balanced with the frizzen spring.  Too heavy, and the frizzen spring too light, the frizzen will bounce and break your flint off.  The other way around, and the frizzen will not open fully.  Most of us who have been around for a while, like in the last century and before computers, know this relationship, because we have taken locks like yours and tinkered with them until either they worked better, or had to be replaced with something that did.  It is a worthwhile adventure, and rest assured, any and all parts can be replaced from other sources, or you can make them yourself.
But the mainspring on a good flintlock is not like that of a T/C "Hawken", or any of the other coil spring efforts.  It needs to have lots of authority, with power from the top of the stroke to the bottom.
When you say you are holding up others on the trail walk, I'm taking it that you mean because of misfires, flash in the pan, and failure to ignite the charge.  A lock and the vent, in this case, definitely need help.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Curt Larsen

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Re: tuning a lock
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2014, 08:48:50 PM »
Is that a Pedersoli lock?  You may want to exchange what is there with a better lock one of these days if so.  Get a copy of Track's catalog and make copies of their locks and find one that approximates your lock mortise and touchhole position.  It's not too hard to fit a new lock when the spirit moves you.

Offline thecapgunkid

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Re: tuning a lock
« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2014, 09:35:30 PM »
Thanks D. Taylor and Curt

Nate McKenzie is going to work over the breech area when I can get over there and he has a vent that he swears by.

I also thought about replacing the lock, but the budget for this customization is only $100, most, all or above which will go to Nate.  I wanted to learn and work without running up a bill