What do you look for in a maple or walnut stock blank?

[okawbow]

I've been invited to help cut some sugar maple and walnut logs into planks, to be sold for muzzleloader stocks.

What do you want in a stock blank? Any advantage in quarter Sawn? Ideal thickness, etc?

[Stophel]

What I look for in a stock blank, in order of importance: 1. Hardness.  2. Hardness. 3. Grain orientation. 4. Moderate curl (if maple), and 5. Hardness.  I REALLY like for them to be about 2 1/2" thick, but I can, sometimes, use them slightly thinner, but I always do nice big guns with 2" + buttplates.

I personally couldn't care less if it is quarter sawn or slab sawn. 

[rich pierce]

A minimum 2.75" before planing because I prefer early styles.  Good grain through the wrist. Usually that means using the very base of the tree where natural curve or flare helps grain direction.

[Dphariss]

I've been invited to help cut some sugar maple and walnut logs into planks, to be sold for muzzleloader stocks.

What do you want in a stock blank? Any advantage in quarter Sawn? Ideal thickness, etc?

Hardness. Grain flow. 1/4 sawn would depend on the application.  It gives better display of the curl but a weaker wrist unless the grain runs right down the wrist.

Dan

[E.vonAschwege]

Hardness    is there a broken record?  Yes, density is super important, but if you're asking about layout then there's not too much to be done about the density.  If the grain flows just right, then quartersawn is nice, otherwise some variation of slab sawn, so long as the grain is relatively in line with the wrist.  2 3/4" minimum before planing, most blanks sold today are about 2 1/2" +/- once planed down.  If you can, dig about a foot down below the ground in order to have the lumber flare out with the trunk - this will get you some great figure, density, and quartersawn sections.  Sections where large limbs have grown off the main trunk can be used for pistol blanks with the grain flowing through the grip. 
-Eric

[Acer Saccharum]

Big tree, big branches, there must be more stocks up there!

Wood that comes from branches is not suitable. Even when dry it has a lot of stress. The wood that has been holding itself up for 100 years is suddenly cut down and planked up, all the weight has been removed. When dry, stocks from this part of the tree will continue to move forever. When you cut a slice off the forstock to straighten it out, it curves even more.

How do I know?   

[okawbow]

Thanks everyone!
So, I take it that quarter sawn would not be desirable in walnut, and only ok in a lower trunk cut with a perfect lay out for the wrist for hard maple?

I've used sugar maple from my area before, for a few long rifles and lot do bow laminations. Most of the wood seemed at least as hard as the maple I bought from Dixie Gunworks and other sources.

How about sugar maples that have been tapped for the sap for a hundred years or so?

[T*O*F]

I don't think it makes any difference when you are cutting the planks.  If the trees are large, you can get both slab and 1/4 sawn planks out of them.  Try to preserve root wood and crotch wood if possible by selectively  cutting your initial lengths to preserve them.  Otherwise, what you end up with is the luck of the draw and you will grade the wood once it's dry.  A guy wants maximum yield from his trees which does not include hacking a log up to find what's inside.  It all sells one way or the other.

[Acer Saccharum]

I think quarter sawed wood is over rated. If you go for the four stocks out of a decent sized log, there is a tremendous amount of wasted wood. I plank saw the log, and I end up with a number of stocks that are pretty close to quarter sawed anyway.

[T*O*F]

If you go for the four stocks out of a decent sized log, there is a tremendous amount of wasted wood

Tom,
What do you call a decent sized log?  I'm used to those that are 36" to 48" in diameter.  From those you will get a number of one inch planks in the process of squaring the log.  Once squared the mill is reset to your desired plank size and cutting proceeds.  Both slab and 1/4 sawn planks will be obtained.

[Sweeney]

Thanks everyone!
So, I take it that quarter sawn would not be desirable in walnut, and only ok in a lower trunk cut with a perfect lay out for the wrist for hard maple?

I've used sugar maple from my area before, for a few long rifles and lot do bow laminations. Most of the wood seemed at least as hard as the maple I bought from Dixie Gunworks and other sources.

How about sugar maples that have been tapped for the sap for a hundred years or so?

Though it has not yet happened to me, I have heard that old tap holes can ruin an otherwise promising tree. Most of our logging is done in rough, steep country where tapping was not feasible.  From your original post I got the impression your logs were already dropped - ruling out stump-digging. If you do dig, have a pick along with a shovel to get between those narrow spaces between the flanges. And be prepared to ruin many a chain on the saw.