bandsaw

[elk killer]

I picked up a near new bench top Delta bandsaw
for next to nuthing, I want to dedicate it for light metal cutting,
a search for metal cutting blades didn't turn up much,
anyone know what blade is best?

or is it even possiable

[Curt Lyles]

  elk killer
   Give Enco a try thats where i get all my blades and sandin belts. They just had a 30% off sale Sat but they will have another one real soon .Curt

[Bob Roller]

I picked up a near new bench top Delta bandsaw
for next to nuthing, I want to dedicate it for light metal cutting,
a search for metal cutting blades didn't turn up much,
anyone know what blade is best?

or is it even possiable

That little bandsaw may run way to fast for any kind of metal cutting.
I have an OLD floor model with 12" wheels and a reduction gear that
I use with an 80" blade. I have blades made by a local industrial supply
business or sometime Blue Ridge Machine and Tools in Hurricane WV.
I run these blades at around 150 feet per minute and use a 1/2x 80
with 18 or 24 teeth per inch and am playing with a 1/2x80 blade that
has a variety of teeth per inch and is supposed to be for tougher materials
like 0-1 flat ground stock that I used for sears.

Bob Roller

[jerrywh]

 You have two problems. #1 is finding a blade the right length for metal. Metal blades are heavier than wood blades and are hard on rubber faces wheels.
 #2 like Bob said you will need to change pulleys to reduce the speed. The high speed of the wood saw will ruin a metal bkade real fast no matter how good the blade is. Metal cutting band saws have iron or steel wheels.

[hudson]

I agree with the posts. You do need to slow the blade down. I know of several conversions that work well. An idler or maybe I should call it a jack shaft is used. This way by changing belts you can go back and forth between wood and metal. Do a search for the Home Shop Machinist web site and go to there index and do a search for the conversion. They are reasonable on reprints. as I recall they did have an article on the conversion some time back. When choosing a blade remember the rule, at least three teeth in the work. Good luck and hope it works out well.

[davec2]

It also depends on what metal you intend to cut.  Everything the others have said is correct for cutting ferrous metal alloys.  However, for non-ferrous alloys (brass, aluminum, copper, silver, etc.) I use wood cutting blades at wood cutting speeds.  As long as you don't jam the material into the blade too hard, the wood cutting blades last me just as long cutting soft metals as they do cutting wood.  Just a thought.

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

As Dave said unless you are cutting brass, aluminum or silver you need to slow the blade down to about 150FPM. Years ago I converted a 14" Walker Turner wood saw to saw steel. I changed the pulleys and added a variable speed gearbox. You can do it by just changing pulleys and adding a jack shaft. Metal cutting bandsaws DO use rubber tires on the wheels. They normally have a wire brush rubbing against the tire to brush off the chips. My 36" DoAll saw has rubber tires. Without rubber tires you wouldn't be able to use different width blades as you don't want the teeth on the wheel.  Band hack saws don't use tires, they normally have a shouldered iron wheel. MSC will custom cut and weld blades any length you need. I use Lenox RX+ Vari-Tooth bimetal blades. They have a high speed steel edge welded on a flexible back. MSC carries Lenox, Starrett and Simmonds all of which are good blades. If you have a Motion Industries branch in your area, they can also supply custom welded blades any length you need. Order bimetal blades if you are cutting steel.

[Gaeckle]

A wood blade would quickly go dull on metal, getting the right size blade would be a problem unless you learn how to  modify metal blades (cut and braze them to the right size).

As for the speed, I think if you run the voltage (110 volts?) through a dimmer switch, you may be able to slow the speed down......

That's a whole lot of work.....why not look on Craigs List or some other place for some used stuff? Get the right tool and you needn't mess around......just an opinion.

[Dennis Glazener]

As for the speed, I think if you run the voltage (110 volts?) through a dimmer switch, you may be able to slow the speed down......

If I still remember Ohms law correctly when you lower the voltage you are going to increase the Amp's and need to be careful that you do not burn the motor up by overheating it.
Dennis

[davec2]

By the way, although I cut all non ferrous metals and wood on my 14 inch vertical band saw (again, with wood cutting blades and at wood cutting speed), I do cut a lot of steel (structural, round stock, etc.).  I found a chop saw like this one only it was used and cost me $50.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622

I do all the steel cutting on it or large cut off work on aluminum, brass, etc. This small saw will cut up to 4 inch by 6 inches and I do cut a lot of structural steel up to that size with it.  For $50, you can't beat it.

[Ed Wenger]

I have a standard bench top Craftsman, probably very similar to your Delta.  You can get metal cutting blades from Sears.  I've only cut brass and thinner gauge steel with it, but it cuts like butter. 

I set it up for cutting side plates, mostly, and have done some that way.  When cut with the bandsaw, I've found that clean up around the edges is needed more than when they're cut with a jewelers saw, especially around circular areas.  Don't know if that's what you had in mind...., just an observation. 


         Ed

[Bob Roller]

I use a similar horizontal bandsaw but I bought it new for $200 in 1963.
It was made in Toledo,Ohio by Monroe Tool Co. and I suppose like most other
American tool makers they are now defunct.
We bought a new hot water heater at Home Deephole last week and I also bought
some files with the brand name Husky on the package. The flat file was no good
and acted like an old worn out one. The last two sets I bought were really good
so I suppose the quality control has gone down the drain after I bought them last
Summer.

Bob Roller

[Gaeckle]

As for the speed, I think if you run the voltage (110 volts?) through a dimmer switch, you may be able to slow the speed down......

If I still remember Ohms law correctly when you lower the voltage you are going to increase the Amp's and need to be careful that you do not burn the motor up by overheating it.
Dennis

There's a bunch of "how to do's" on You Tube showing how to use a dimmer....basically a variable speed switch, just like foot pedals on sewing machines. Pretty neat stuff on You Tube.

[elk killer]

was hoping to use it to cut mild steel for knife guards,
might have to rethink it
I don't have much in it

[Bob Roller]

was hoping to use it to cut mild steel for knife guards,
might have to rethink it
I don't have much in it

If the blade speed can be slowed down it will work for metal cutting.
Any industrial supply shop can get blades made or you can go online and find them.
My horizontal saw use a 1/2x59 x whatever tooth # per inch I want.
They are all special orders.

Bob Roller

[cmac]

Wouldn't a scroll saw work better? I've been meaning to find metal blades for mine and give it a try. I believe most if not all have variable speed and probably easier on the tight curves. I don't mind the old tried and true hand tools but it would be nice for some applications